Hideki Okisaka: Master '30s tailor !

[Matt Deckard]

That's it... I'm going to Japan!

 

[herringbonekid]

i think it might be the top-stitching giving a bit of a fat border around the lapel. i hate to be picky though.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Ho Ho. I just secured purchase of a 30s suit identical to this one, but only 2 piece. I needed a white gab suit. So got one.

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

That's it... I'm going to Japan!

Go to Japan for the geishas, not for the suits. Instead, go to Indy Magnoli and say, "This is what I want. See it, learn it, love it, make it!"

 

[herringbonekid]

Ho Ho. I just secured purchase of a 30s suit identical to this one, but only 2 piece. I needed a white gab suit. So got one.

bk

OOh get you !

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Love the pleated waistcoats on the Okisaka suits.

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

i think it might be the top-stitching giving a bit of a fat border around the lapel. i hate to be picky though.

It's good to be picky. But look at this: it's a cream wool suit from 1932. I sold it a while back.
Compare its top-stitching to that of the linen suit. And look at the lapels -- they're nearly identical:

 

[Matt Deckard]

Go to Japan for the geishas, not for the suits. Instead, go to Indy Magnoli and say, "This is what I want. See it, learn it, love it, make it!"

I'll go to Japan for the toy fair, Hong Kong for the suits and Magnoli for the Museum artifacts.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

And those poor geishas ...?

 

[herringbonekid]

i see it, i see it, but those lapels don't give me the 70s feeling. maybe it isn't the top stitching. it might be the width.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

You know what I think is giving you that vibe? It's the rope shoulders. Rope shoulders weren't all that popular in the '30s, but they were a big hit in the '70s.

 

[herringbonekid]

yes, i think it's the shoulders plus the slight extra width of the lapels.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I do think that Okisaka-san likes to slightly exaggerate certain details. He wants these suits to say "Vintage" with a capital "V". An in-your-face attitude. Nobody can wear his suits and be mistaken for a Helmut Lang shopper. Even Ralph Lauren's stuff doesn't look quite like this.

 

[herringbonekid]

the funny thing is.....it is often the tiniest detail or nuance in proportion that seperates one era's look from another and gives it that authentic feel. especially in men's suits where the changes aren't as obvious as womenswear.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Yes :eusa_clap

 

[Matt Deckard]

The other thing is that those aren't vintage suit... they are modern... stop confusing toay's art with vintage copies!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I'm confused. Are you saying that Okisaka-san's suit is "today's art", or that it's "a vintage copy"? [huh]

 

[Benny Holiday]

Unabashed fan of Okisaka-san's work

I'm very fortunate (or perhaps my wallet is cursed?) to have a top-shelf tailor in my home town. He's copied a couple of my original late 30's suits to a T, and is a master at reproducing articles from a good photograph. That summer suit is definitely one for the 'to-do' list!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Fortunately, you're cursed!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Benny, i wish i had your terrible luck. Life must be horrid for you.

I keep seeing ties, hats and suits around that were sold from local haberdashers and tailors in town back in the day. There were at least 4 haberdashers here in the 1930s (and i have the ties to prove it) Now there are none.

A sad demise. Every small town around where i grew up in Scotland has at least a tailor. This city has approx. 125,000 souls (lost, alas, to abercrombie and fitch and hollister and old navy and american eagle and GAP and crappy crap crap wannabe surf never seen the sea skateboard beach dude), and not even 1 tailor! And the haberdashers stock garbage produced by the likes of Ralph Lauren (i'm not a Ralph fan). There is just no demand for high quality haberdashery and tailoring.

bk