Herbert Johnson Poet

[londonboy]

Hello. I am a new member of a Magic Circle law firm. I recently purchased a number of essentials, but the partner I sit with suggested that I purchase a hat. I visited Swaine Adeney and the manager suggested that I not consider bowler hats and fedoras because the rules for formality have effectively changed and younger men now wear trilbys when they would have worn these formal hats.

The manager suggested that I purchase one of his Herbert Johnson Poets and start with an iconic hat of Indiana Jones fame. I like the idea, but have two reservations. First, I note that the crown of this model is very high, and I happen to be a short chap of about 5'4". Second, I have seen mixed reviews about the current Poet. Some say its quality is now suspect, while others say it is as authentic as one gets these days to the Indiana Jones hat.

The Poet's iconic niche does have some appeal to me, and my partner did happen to suggest purchasing a brown trilby (made of rabbit fur felt, he specified) to go with my tan trench coat, various sport coats and brown leather jacket. Otherwise, I was thinking of a gray trilby with a shorter crown.

I plan to make a purchase soon so that I can use the hat while walking around the city and traveling in the countryside during the holidays. I have seen recommendations for hats from outside the UK, but I am wary of very strict customs inspectors.

What might the experts suggest as a first hat?

 

[carter]

No expert but....

If you're only buying one hat:

a. Buy a color that coordinates with your wardrobe as much as possible.

b. Try on as many different styles as possible and purchase the one that you feel best suits you.

Buy something you'll feel good wearing.

 

[indycop]

Welcome Londonboy!! Isn't Christy's a hometown brand? I could be wrong but I have heard alot about HJ's not holding up very well.

 

[metropd]

A tribily usually denotes a brim around 2 1/4 inches. You can always go with a hat whith a shorter crown and a wider brim say 2 1/2-2 3/4 and look perfectly preportionate.

 

[Havana]

In addition to their Outback and Western styles, Akubra makes many dress hats that may suit your needs and these will certainly stand up to everyday use. Check with this UK Akubra retailer to see what they have in stock. Above all, don't let yourself be rushed into making a decision.

Elmo of Burford
48 High Street
Burford, Oxon. OX18 4QF
Phone (Office) 01993 841276
Phone (Shop) 01993 824004
Fax 01993 841006
Email mail@elmofburford.com
Website www.elmofburford.com

 

[AlanC]

I've had some exchanges with londonboy about his search for a hat, and I encouraged him to post here about it as I know we have some London area members.

Thanks for posting the Akubra dealer information above, as I had suggested he try Akubra.

Also, I know it's not the best option these days, but compared to the English hatters these days, wouldn't Borsalino be a possibility as well?

 

[Aerol]

London Ideas

You might also try Lock on St. James's, or Bates on Jermyn St.

Just go and try on hats until you find a style that suits. Lock makes a nice Trilby (called the Traveler, I think) that's a fine hat.

 

[Alan Eardley]

If you are considering a Herbert Johnson, first, I would suggest buying a used one rather new (seriously) as the quality of the pre-1990 models is better. There are no truly British-manufactured felt hats any more. If you would have no problem buying a well-maintained used Aston Martin DB5, you should have no problem buying a second-hand top-of-the-range hat. It is possible to recondition a hat thoroughly (more so than a car) and the increase in quality is well worth it. Second, I would recommend a HJ Romany rather than a Poet, as it looks more 'city' and less 'eccentric archeologist' or 'crocodile wrestler'. Third, you should never accept advice on clothing or accessories form anyone, (especially me) as we never have to pay for or wear what we recommend.

Alan

 

[vintage68]

You're right about the quality going down in the Herbert Johnson poet. Fortunately you found this forum.

Contact Magnoli Clothiers at:

https://host385.ipowerweb.com/~indyprop/osCommerce/catalog/

They take a standard Herbert Johnson and make the following improvements for a far superior hat:


-Felt repounced to a superior finish
-Reblocked into a taller, Raiders-shaped crown
-Felt stabalized to help alleviate premature shrinkage and taper
-Brim dimensionally cut using a template from the original
-Ribbon replaced with accurate ribbon and bow
-Sweatband handsewn above brim break (for extra strength)
-Liners handsewn (not glued as with stock HJs)
-Styled to match a particular scene (if desired)

I'm sure if you're concerned about the height they could adjust it downward.

 

[londonboy]

Yes, thanks for the Akubra dealer information. I did not know that there was one in this country.

Part of my concern is having my head measured rather doing a trial and error by mail. Are there any reputable bespoke makers near London? From the feedback, it seems everything from the London hatters is terribly overpriced now.

 

[RBH]

Welcome to the Lounge...please keep us informed of your progress.
And GOOD LUCK!

 

[londonboy]

Might I ask who the London members are so I can PM them?

I'm rather confused. Should I just buy a hat from Lock, even though they are not the best quality now either and just import everything from the Czech Republic and Italy?

If I buy from abroad, how do I be sure of my fit and how the hat looks on me? Should I just look for this Adventurer if I end up looking for an Indy hat? Any advice on customs and shipping?

Are there any bespoke hat makers accessible from London?

Should I just buy a flat cap in the meantime, and is Lock the best place in London for this? I assume the quality for wool or cashmere caps from Lock is different from the quality of their felt hats?

My apologies, but I am trying to sort through the advice I have been given.

 

[RBH]

londonboy, you have to have at least 15 post before you can PM.
I suggest you pick a few threads and post "GREAT HAT" ect ect ect.
That is a quick way to boost your post count.
As to a hat size here is a site that will help you get your hat size. Please use a cloth measuring tape.
http://www.thehatsite.com/measuring.html
There are several members here from the UK that will be glad to help you.

Here is a link to the thread on myTVA fedora. This hat has alot of the same specs as the HJ.
This Tennessee hatter
would be more than glad to help you out.
Good Luck!

 

[mineral]

I'm rather confused. Should I just buy a hat from Lock, even though they are not the best quality now either and just import everything from the Czech Republic and Italy?

If I buy from abroad, how do I be sure of my fit and how the hat looks on me? Should I just look for this Adventurer if I end up looking for an Indy hat? Any advice on customs and shipping?

I think you should go to Lock's first, if only to know what exactly is your size and what type of hat might look good on you. If you like what you see, then feel free to buy, of course, but if you feel the quality isn't up to par you should only then consider buying from overseas. I think the effort to go to Lock's will be well worth it in terms of minimizing the possibilities of disappointment from getting a technically "better" hat overseas that neither fits nor looks good (on you).

 

[londonboy]

If I do that, though, I suppose it wouldn't be a bad outcome if I just ended up with the HJ Poet for a first hat?

 

[mineral]

If I do that, though, I suppose it wouldn't be a bad outcome if I just ended up with the HJ Poet for a first hat?

I personally think you would have done fine with any hat that fits and looks good and that you are also happy to wear around town. If the Poet fits the description, then it is a good first hat. There's a costume site selling Herbert Johnson Poets for 300 USD online, and if I remember correctly someone on this forum bought one from him and didn't seem disappointed with the product. Do note though that 300 USD will get you a brand new Borsalino or a custom made fedora, so if you are willing to spend this much then you actually have quite a choice between almost all the best hats available today.

Anyway, whatever it is, if you go to Lock's you should not ask for the Poet. They might not be amused that you are asking for the product of a competitor. You should go to Herbert Johnson to look for that.

(By the way, since you are looking for a "movie hat", maybe you should consider Lock's Sandown, as worn by James Bond?)

 

[londonboy]

Do note though that 300 USD will get you a brand new Borsalino or a custom made fedora, so if you are willing to spend this much then you actually have quite a choice between almost all the best hats available today.

How do I access custom made from here in London?

Which movie was the Sandown from?

 

[mineral]

How do I access custom made from here in London?

Which movie was the Sandown from?

For custom hats, I think everyone around here would recommend Vintage Silhouettes (US). (Note that I don't own any of thoese hats, but I think the pictures posted up near weekly by forum members speak for themselves.) Other forum members could be more specific how to order them.

According to some quick Googling (mainly links to the James Bond fan forums), the Sandown was seen in Dr. No., From Russia with Love, and Goldfinger. I don't even vaguely remember the details of the movies so I can't confirm for sure, but I'm sure the fans would not be wrong in these sort of details.

 

[Film Noir]

Christy's Trilby

I purchased a Christy's trilby about two years ago and find it to be an excellent hat. I get compliments on it all the time. And its a beautiful brown/sable color.

 

[londonboy]

What about just buying a flat cap for now? Where would be the best place to get one of those if you live in London?