Help with choosing a leather jacket

[pipvh]

You could also check out the Bill Kelso Westfall - http://www.billkelsomfg.com/3d/westfall/ - which is very clean and simple, plus BK have some really amazing hides to choose from. They also seem happy to work with people on modifications.

 

[Capesofwrath]

If I lived in the US I would go with one of the local makers like Johnson who people here have had had good experiences with.

The main selling point of Aero is their access to Horween FQHH. It might feel like wearing a suitcase when it's new but it is beautiful stuff and breaks in to a make a lovely jacket. I don't know who in the US makes jackets in it but I remember a recent thread here where someone bought direct from Horween and had one made up by Johnson's I think.

I would definitely go through Insurrection if I wanted an Aero. Fit issues are a lot easier if you don't have to send stuff back and forth across the Atlantic.

There are a number of high end makers in various parts of the world. As well as BK mentioned above there's Pegasus who make very nice stuff based in Paris and Alexander, who are a bit cheaper than Aero and employ ex Aero machinists who some might say are a little better than some of the newer Aero people. They can get Horween Steer but not HH.

If you travel to Europe you could buy from one of those places and get measured up properly and avoid import duties. As I said before I've had a Schott jacket among others like them and there was nothing wrong with it at all. But you can do better if you want.

 

[2wheelgrplr]

Hi MuyJingo, if you're in NYC as your location states, have you tried out the Schott jackets in person? Several places in the city carry them. I bought my 141 from Dave's Army Navy at a good price. I'm very happy with it. I think Dave's only carries the 141 and the 118 Perfecto. Genesis in midtown also carry several models, as do several other shops downtown & Soho area. Best bet though might be the official Schott NYC store that just opened in Soho, 236 Elizabeth Street, a week or two ago. If you can, go there and try out the various jackets - I did, and had to restrain myself from splurging on a CAF that fit so well and looked so nice!

I recently purchased a Lost Worlds Buco Ryder, and man, that jacket is off the charts! Nicer than my Schott 141 in so many areas - material, workmanship, etc., but really thick & heavy so may not suit your needs. I WANT thick & heavy as I ride motorcycles. Went down wearing my Schott earlier this summer - thankfully a minor get-off, the jacket got away with some scuffing, although the shoulder I landed on still hurts! Anyways, I picked up the Lost Worlds from a motorcycle gear store in Brooklyn (Union Garage NYC) that sells some LW models. If you can make the trip to Red Hook, Brooklyn, check them up, they also carry Schott and perhaps even Vanson (motorcycle specific though). I believe the owner lurks here. And yes, LW does have a reputation for being "quirky" to deal with, so was happy to go through this store for my Buco Ryder.

I also picked up an older Vanson Model B for my brother (who also rides) - I understand they used heavier leather a decade or so ago, so this one is quite heavy. Quality is really good too, I'd place it a peg above my Schott.

Hope this helps.

 

[cafeblitz]

I've worked with both Johnson Leathers and Vanson and couldn't agree more. Johnson Leathers has the BEST customer service I've EVER dealt with. Prompt, personable and completely first rate. Vanson's a step behind ONLY because of the volume they put out. When I went there they treated us like "kings" and the remodel on my "Ike" was first rate! Both outfits and Langlitz as well act like your business is a privilege NOT an inconvenience and they work hard to get it and keep it! Cafeblitz could not be more correct.

Worf

Thanks Worf!

This reminds me: Though I have not yet ordered from Langlitz, they are a standup group. I sent them an email about a couple models, heard back within a day and received a full catalog and a couple other add-ons in the mail within the week. Add to that their 100% satisfaction guarantee and you have a serious contender. If only I wasn't so enamored with Aero's half-belt deluxe... trying to be strong...

Anyway, check out the Langlitz Sidewinder, it has a cool yoke and some quilting - definitely a piece you don't see every day.

 

[Highwaymanman]

Why is it the least of them? No one seems to have elaborated on why they are not at the same standard as Aero ro Johnson or vanson.

Are there things you can list to quantify why it isn't up to the same standard?

Well, the Aero has thick, supple, waxy horsehide. Hypnotic to look at. That's the most obvious aspect. It makes the naked cowhide of the Schott seem quite flimsy which is no mean feat.

The Langlitz could well be bullet proof. Like I said, it's likely 50 years old and the chocolate brown goat looks no more than six months old.

The Schott has worn in very nicely indeed although I have given it a couple of coats of Obenaufs over the years since the dry patina was making it look a little scruffy and I didn't like the look much. The Aero on the other hand looks better and better for every little scratch and i don't know if it's even possible to put a scratch on the Langlitz.

Apart from the hide the obvious difference in quality is the lining and pockets. the Langlitz has a polyester outer lining over a padded inner which is perfect. It is fitted wonderfully and totally solid. The Aero has cotton drill which again is fitted well. The Schott's lining is a cheap diamond pattern black lining. The inner insulation is pretty cheapo and I know this because the pocket bags have developed large holes. I'm considering a reline job but to be honest I could probably get another one in good nick for the same price on ebay.

Another difference is the fastening method. The Langlitz has a giant C+C zip, the Aero has a very solid own brand. Both extremely hefty.The Schott has black naval buttons one of which came off and I had to have replaced. Apples to oranges, yeah, but only one of the three has needed any work.

The styles and the fit are all different so I won't comment on those except to say don't take the fact that Schott don't make as good of a jacket as Aero or Langlitz as a slight against them. Those two makers are among the very best world wide, we're probably talking in the top five. I actually really love my schott 740N very much, it's my everyday winter jacket.

 

[Highwaymanman]

Why is it the least of them? No one seems to have elaborated on why they are not at the same standard as Aero ro Johnson or vanson.

Are there things you can list to quantify why it isn't up to the same standard?

Well, the Aero has thick, supple, waxy horsehide. Hypnotic to look at. That's the most obvious aspect. It makes the naked cowhide of the Schott seem quite flimsy which is no mean feat.

The Langlitz could well be bullet proof. Like I said, it's likely 50 years old and the chocolate brown goat looks no more than six months old.

The Schott has worn in very nicely indeed although I have given it a couple of coats of Obenaufs over the years since the dry patina was making it look a little scruffy and I didn't like the look much. The Aero on the other hand looks better and better for every little scratch and i don't know if it's even possible to put a scratch on the Langlitz.

Apart from the hide the obvious difference in quality is the lining and pockets. the Langlitz has a polyester outer lining over a padded inner which is perfect. It is fitted wonderfully and totally solid. The Aero has cotton drill which again is fitted well. The Schott's lining is a cheap diamond pattern black lining. The inner insulation is pretty cheapo and I know this because the pocket bags have developed large holes. I'm considering a reline job but to be honest I could probably get another one in good nick for the same price on ebay.

Another difference is the fastening method. The Langlitz has a giant C+C zip, the Aero has a very solid own brand. Both extremely hefty.The Schott has black naval buttons one of which came off and I had to have replaced. Apples to oranges, yeah, but only one of the three has needed any work.

The styles and the fit are all different so I won't comment on those except to say don't take the fact that Schott don't make as good of a jacket as Aero or Langlitz as a slight against them. Those two makers are among the very best world wide, we're probably talking in the top five. I actually really love my schott 740N very much, it's my everyday winter jacket.

 

[Worf]

I've a second hand Langlitz BUT will be ordering one fresh.... next year! I found them to be friendly and quick with their emails! Good service.

Worf

 

[MuyJingo]

I would hazard a guess they'ld do it (maybe minus the yoke ). But this will be definitely a 50ties style! Anyway, I have the LHB minus the breast-pocket plus some lenth in the body, and it is a very nice jacket. I often thought I should have ordered it without the flap-pockets... BTW, I took mine without the "storm-cuffs", don't care too much for knits at the wrists.
Maybe call Carrie, she should know what and what not Aero will do. Or maybe Holly could chime in and enlighten us.

Hi Don, Thanks for your input.

I'm still looking and considering. I'm against 50's or any retro styles, I just wasn't particularly taken with any of the models on the Aero homepage...it didn't match what I had in mind and I've seen mixed things about how far I can take customizations.

I'm in talks with Aero though so I will see

If I lived in the US I would go with one of the local makers like Johnson who people here have had had good experiences with.

The main selling point of Aero is their access to Horween FQHH. It might feel like wearing a suitcase when it's new but it is beautiful stuff and breaks in to a make a lovely jacket. I don't know who in the US makes jackets in it but I remember a recent thread here where someone bought direct from Horween and had one made up by Johnson's I think.

I would definitely go through Insurrection if I wanted an Aero. Fit issues are a lot easier if you don't have to send stuff back and forth across the Atlantic.

There are a number of high end makers in various parts of the world. As well as BK mentioned above there's Pegasus who make very nice stuff based in Paris and Alexander, who are a bit cheaper than Aero and employ ex Aero machinists who some might say are a little better than some of the newer Aero people. They can get Horween Steer but not HH.

If you travel to Europe you could buy from one of those places and get measured up properly and avoid import duties. As I said before I've had a Schott jacket among others like them and there was nothing wrong with it at all. But you can do better if you want.

Hmm, thanks. I'm not such a leather jacket aficionado as many people are on the board. I just want something that I like the look off and will last a damn long time.

I've gone off Schott as I've decided i do want something custom and they won't do that, to any extent.

Is there an advantage to using Insurrection over Thurston Bros?

Hi MuyJingo, if you're in NYC as your location states, have you tried out the Schott jackets in person? Several places in the city carry them. I bought my 141 from Dave's Army Navy at a good price. I'm very happy with it. I think Dave's only carries the 141 and the 118 Perfecto. Genesis in midtown also carry several models, as do several other shops downtown & Soho area. Best bet though might be the official Schott NYC store that just opened in Soho, 236 Elizabeth Street, a week or two ago. If you can, go there and try out the various jackets - I did, and had to restrain myself from splurging on a CAF that fit so well and looked so nice!

I recently purchased a Lost Worlds Buco Ryder, and man, that jacket is off the charts! Nicer than my Schott 141 in so many areas - material, workmanship, etc., but really thick & heavy so may not suit your needs. I WANT thick & heavy as I ride motorcycles. Went down wearing my Schott earlier this summer - thankfully a minor get-off, the jacket got away with some scuffing, although the shoulder I landed on still hurts! Anyways, I picked up the Lost Worlds from a motorcycle gear store in Brooklyn (Union Garage NYC) that sells some LW models. If you can make the trip to Red Hook, Brooklyn, check them up, they also carry Schott and perhaps even Vanson (motorcycle specific though). I believe the owner lurks here. And yes, LW does have a reputation for being "quirky" to deal with, so was happy to go through this store for my Buco Ryder.

I also picked up an older Vanson Model B for my brother (who also rides) - I understand they used heavier leather a decade or so ago, so this one is quite heavy. Quality is really good too, I'd place it a peg above my Schott.

Hope this helps.

Hey, thanks. By coincidence Dave's and Genisis were the two stores I did check out. They didn't have the 662 but I tried the 660 and a few other styles.

I did like them, they just didn't suit perfectly and since Schott won't do customizations, they're out.

I'm hoping to check Herald house of leather next, hoping to try some Vanson or maybe even old Aero jackets..., if not not, just to have a look at different weights and hides to make a better informed decision when ordering online.

Thanks Worf!

This reminds me: Though I have not yet ordered from Langlitz, they are a standup group. I sent them an email about a couple models, heard back within a day and received a full catalog and a couple other add-ons in the mail within the week. Add to that their 100% satisfaction guarantee and you have a serious contender. If only I wasn't so enamored with Aero's half-belt deluxe... trying to be strong...

Anyway, check out the Langlitz Sidewinder, it has a cool yoke and some quilting - definitely a piece you don't see every day.

Thanks Word and Cafeblitz, checking out Langlitz now as well.

Not sure why I didn't notice it earlier in Worf's comment...

Well, the Aero has thick, supple, waxy horsehide. Hypnotic to look at. That's the most obvious aspect. It makes the naked cowhide of the Schott seem quite flimsy which is no mean feat.

The Langlitz could well be bullet proof. Like I said, it's likely 50 years old and the chocolate brown goat looks no more than six months old.

The Schott has worn in very nicely indeed although I have given it a couple of coats of Obenaufs over the years since the dry patina was making it look a little scruffy and I didn't like the look much. The Aero on the other hand looks better and better for every little scratch and i don't know if it's even possible to put a scratch on the Langlitz.

Apart from the hide the obvious difference in quality is the lining and pockets. the Langlitz has a polyester outer lining over a padded inner which is perfect. It is fitted wonderfully and totally solid. The Aero has cotton drill which again is fitted well. The Schott's lining is a cheap diamond pattern black lining. The inner insulation is pretty cheapo and I know this because the pocket bags have developed large holes. I'm considering a reline job but to be honest I could probably get another one in good nick for the same price on ebay.

Another difference is the fastening method. The Langlitz has a giant C+C zip, the Aero has a very solid own brand. Both extremely hefty.The Schott has black naval buttons one of which came off and I had to have replaced. Apples to oranges, yeah, but only one of the three has needed any work.

The styles and the fit are all different so I won't comment on those except to say don't take the fact that Schott don't make as good of a jacket as Aero or Langlitz as a slight against them. Those two makers are among the very best world wide, we're probably talking in the top five. I actually really love my schott 740N very much, it's my everyday winter jacket.

Thanks for elaborating!

So essentially the hide is not as good as what comes from the other, more expensive makers, and secondary characteristics like lining and pockets are not as quality.

It makes sense to pay a bit extra and have all of that stuff last longer...or even for the same price get it done from Vanson or Johnson...

Still a lot of research to do....aye

 

[Worf]

MJ - I know what "Jacket Fever" can be like... It's a VERY heady feeling. However as I and many other's have learned from sad, sad experience... it's best to "measure twice... cut once". In other words, take your time... ask for leather samples, try-on jackets, advice and hit the local shops BEFORE spending a boat-load of cash or even a little cash. I've a closet floor littered with ebay misses that I just wish would "go away"!

Worf

 

[gtdean48]

... I've a closet floor littered with ebay misses that I just wish would "go away"!

Worf

My local Goodwill & Salvation Army drops help with disposal of my "misses", those that I don't float back on the 'bay....
Dave is right tho = do the research & reduce the "tuition" cost!

 

[handymike]

Ahhhh, the lure of vintage jackets on eBay...
Against my better judgement, I did it again last week!
Fingers crossed that this time I got sizing right....
Curses for the 18mo wait for a Goodwear!!!!!

 

[IXL]

I've a second hand Langlitz BUT will be ordering one fresh.... next year! .....

Worf

I guess we know where your tax refund is going.....

 

[MuyJingo]

Does anyone know a good resource where I can learn the different styles and the decades they correspond to?

As I research and try to decide I'm getting overwhelmed with a lot of names and decades that I'm finding hard to look up and compare.

It would be good to have a general reference point that I could learn from, but so far my googling has found nothing.

 

[Seb Lucas]

It takes time to get your head around all the permutations. My tip would be look at the Aero site and study at their jackets. They tend to have most eras and the most obvious pattern styles covered starting from the early 20th Century. Then decide what turns you on. And then look at all the variations. If it's a 1950's half-belt, say, you can then google this and check out the alternatives to Aero, or stay with them, depending on your tastes. This site has a search function which can help.



You really need to get your head around leather types too. Think or thick, HH or goat, cow, etc, etc, blah, blah ,blah.

 

[pipvh]

Does anyone know a good resource where I can learn the different styles and the decades they correspond to?

As I research and try to decide I'm getting overwhelmed with a lot of names and decades that I'm finding hard to look up and compare.

It would be good to have a general reference point that I could learn from, but so far my googling has found nothing.

David Himel's blog - http://vintageleatherjackets.blogspot.co.uk/ - is a very interesting resource. Also blogs such as Rivet Head. Best of all, Rin Tanaka's various books - the two 'Motorcycle Jackets' volumes and some of the 'My Freedamn' editions (which I don't have but do lust after)...

 

[Worf]

I guess we know where your tax refund is going.....

Just saw this bit of badnage!!!! Shush man! The ole ladies listening! She'll want her cut!

Worf

 

[MuyJingo]

Thanks Guys,

I am pretty seriously considering Alexander leather jackets at the moment.

I like their styles a lot, I am particularly fond of their Jerky Horsehide, and they have been very friendly so far and willing to do customizations.

Would anyone have any general thoughts on Alexander?

Also, would anyone have any general thoughts or opinions on jerky horsehide? It doesn't seem too popular and I'm wondering if there is a reason for that.

Ahh well, the hunt continues...

p.s. are there any high quality US makers who are similar to Alexander, have access to jerky horsehide etc..?

 

[Capesofwrath]

Plenty here on AL. There is a thread that's still fairly current back up the page a little. I've got one which is just as well made as my Aeros. Not surprising since the machinists went there from Aero. They have similar jackets to most Aero ones but they can't get Horween FQHH. They can make a jacket in Horween CX steer, but that is a seriously thick and heavy hide.

If you haven't already, get them and Aero to send some samples, including jerky. That is what Aero make A 2s in and is a lighter hide. I don't know if ALs is heavier.

 

[winterland1]

Articles on Jerky Horse
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?47031-Seal-jerky-horse-what-is-it
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71435-Alexander-Leathers-Seal-Brown-Goat-vs-Seal-brown-jerky-horse

I have only ordered new from Alexander Leathers and it was a good experience. Have emailed for sizes, questions etc. from Aero and Lost Worlds and had good response also.

 

[gtdean48]

I bought one of AL's initial offerings at a discount = Dirt Rider in black jerky horsehide.
I have a used Aero 50's HB in FQHH that I bought off a fellow lounger.
These 2 leathers are totally different.
Although the Aero has been thru 2 previous owners before I got it, it still stands by itself.
The AL is soft & supple, more like my older leather jackets, some from Harley Davidson (definitely cowhide).

They are both quality, well-made jackets. 2 leathers are totally different ends of the horse spectrum JMHO