Help with brim finishing on my first "Art"work..

[MadDawg]

I just began my process with Art and having only two fur fedoras to my name at the moment, want some input as to the different brim finishes. Are they strictly cosmetic, or do they provide certain functionality or structure support?

I don't like the ribbon bound edges at all. The appearance to me is just off. I really like the raw brim (as on my Stetson Downs), but I have an Adam stingy that i believe has an overwelt which appears nice too and gives a certain rigidity to the brim.

My Art Fawcett will most likely have a 2 1/2" brim, but does an underwelt provide more structure, quality or durability to the brim over a raw finish??

Thanks for the help, any photos you may have of Art's work regarding this topic would be helpful as well.

 

[kaosharper1]

If it's lightweight felt, then a bound edge of some type makes the brim more stable. For dress weight a raw edge is fine and a finished edge is more cosmetic. My personal feeling is that a ribbon edge is more "dressy" and if you want it to be subtle then have the ribbon match the felt rather than contrast with it.

 

[Viper Man]

Good advice, kaosharper1. I tend to prefer a felted edge (Cavanagh, Mode, etc.) but since that's not an option on Art's hats, I usually like a very thin (4 ligne) binding that matches the felt.

 

[zetwal]

If you don't like bound edges don't get one! In my own experience, raw edges will hold up just fine to normal use. Even good quality featherweights hold up without any welting or binding.

Others may disagree, but I would say to go with what is aesthetically most pleasing for you.

 

[Not-Bogart13]

I'm a bound-edge lover, but we all have our passions. The under or over welt, as Kao indicates, will be functionally advantageous with the light weight felt if you don't want the ribbon binding. For the the regular dress weight, it won't make a difference in terms of practicality. However, if you want to have a different edge than your Stetson, the underwelt is a subtle change in look.

But if raw edge is your greatest love... why not go for it?

 

[gtdean48]

Besides my custom westerns, all hats I have ordered have been bound edges. I have even sent off hats that weren't to have binding added, ex Stetson Pinnacle. BUT, my most favorite vintage that gets the most wear of any hat I own is a raw edge Stetson 25. It has a 2 ply matching thin ribbon & that is it. It is almost as thin as my ArtLite custom, almost. It is a 2 3/4 inch brim & needs no reinforcing. It has been refurbed & put thru the ringer again since. I like the looks of a underwelt on a smaller brim, like 2 1/2 inches. When you are doing the ordering, get what you want!

 

[Mulceber]

I've only ever had raw edges (my next hat is going to feature an overwelt, so that should soon change) and I've never had a problem with the prim not holding it's shape. Perhaps on some workhorse hats it's necessary, but as Kao put it, for dress felt, I think it's mostly cosmetic. -M