Help needed with Panama

[Shanghailander]

Over the years I have picked up a number of straw hats. At the time, I didn't know the difference between straw, or the quality of weaving out there.

My first was a vintage Stetson. After reading a bit about weaves here, I took a squint at the hat.

It looks like it has about 13 row per inch or 169 weaves per square inch. (What, by the way, is a "vuelta" or return in Spanish? Does it refer to a row?)

A few years back, while in Buenos Aires, I picked up another Panama in a hat store there - for $25. Again, I knew nothing about weaving quality, and perhaps there were much better hats available, if I had only known to ask about them. This hat has about 121 weaves per square inch, which makes it a hat to wear to the beach or in the yard while working.

Similar weave count is found in this hat, which I purchased in Prague when I left another hat behind in a hotel.

So after fiddling with these lower quality hats, I finally splurged last year and bought a hat from Strand Hatter's in Sydney, Australia. It is not a Panama technically, because it is made of a different fiber - Bail Buntal.

The weave count is much higher here. The hat is much lighter, as well, than the others.

But here is the problem - the front of the brim appears to have "warped." There is a thin, malleable wire running all around the brim edge, but the main problem actually appears to be in the fiber and weave in the flat part of the brim.

Another view, with area outlined.

How can I flatten this out again? I tried pressing it with some heavy, flat weights, but before long it resumed its warped shape.

Should this be steamed out with a damp cloth and iron? What else can I try?

 

[Orgetorix]

How can I flatten this out again? I tried pressing it with some heavy, flat weights, but before long it resumed its warped shape.

Should this be steamed out with a damp cloth and iron? What else can I try?

A hatter should be able to put it on a brim flange and smooth the ripples out. Although, if it's a problem with the weave, it may just return again.

 

[deanglen]

LOVE the bash on both hats!:eusa_clap

dean

 

[duggap]

You might try a very light ironing of the brim, be sure and use a towel between the hat and the iron. Some swear by this while others say never get within a mile of a straw hat with an iron. Even the very nice Panama hats have a tendency to get a little floppy in the brim, as I am experiencing with mine right now. Of course if the hat is worth it monetarily than you could send it out for a new blocking. If you do try the iron and it works, you might consider getting some straw hat stiffener. Good luck.

 

[Panamabob]

The first two hats are "Brisa" weave and don't go by the weaves per square inch type of rating. You can see the Llano, criss-cross, herringbone, whatever, on the hats in a few places, then you can see the brisa, honeycombed diamond effect (lets the light and breeze through). $20.00 isn't a bad price for those hats.

We get some Cuencas with that wire, like your other "straw". I'd try a low iron myself, too.

 

[Shanghailander]

The first two hats are "Brisa" weave and don't go by the weaves per square inch type of rating. You can see the Llano, criss-cross, herringbone, whatever, on the hats in a few places, then you can see the brisa, honeycombed diamond effect (lets the light and breeze through). $20.00 isn't a bad price for those hats.
QUOTE]

Ah, yes, now I do see the two types of weave - the Llano and the Brisa - on the same hat, in different areas.

What exactly is meant by "vuelta?"

 

[Panamabob]

Try this one. I put some photos at the bottom:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=18063&highlight=vueltas

 

[duggap]

Vueltas

These are the rings you see in the center of the hat if you hold it to the light. They are generally considered a sign of quality to have several of them. They occur when the weaver adds another bunch of straw to the hat.

 

[Joel Tunnah]

Yes, the weave count on those hats is attrocious, embarrassingly low. You should get rid of them immediately. I will PM you an address.

 

[SHARPETOYS]

Just iron the brim and it should take care of it... If not let me know...

 

[tinmanzzz]

Great Stetson

Ah, The elusive Panama Hat[/B]…..
I feel that there must be someone out there who, like me, doesn’t own a Super Duper Extra Fino Museum Quality Montecristi Panama Hat. Am I all alone here ??
This was my first year for the Straws. And I first tried a ebay special. Boy was it a mistake. After numerous attempts to reshape the hat I gave up and threw it away.
Next, I read through the archives and ordered a ebay hat from a referred dealer. Once again, no joy this hat was suppose to be a 7 5/8 but fit like a 7 3/8. Plus, it’s brim was too narrow for my taste. AS someone once said, an ebay hat is a ebay hat. My son now wears it.
However, Tenacious isn’t my middle name for nothing. Once again I read all the articles listed here on Panama Hats and decided to order one from a Fedora Lounge vertebral dealer (name withheld to avoid being hauled out and stoned) of Panama hats.
So I ordered a Extra Fino Cuenca Llano Liso Caballero and waited with worms on my tongue (Baited Breath) to get my new hand woven Extra fino hat. And waited. And waited. And after 8 (eight) weeks of patience waiting, I received my Cuenca Brisa Fino with the floppy brim and the following explanation for the difference: “Unfortunately, my idiot brother-in-law sent up a Brisa weave rather than a Llano weave. “ Now don’t get me wrong, It is a “FINE” hat, and as soon as I can find someone to block it and put some body in the brim, I will probably wear it.
After all of this I decided to go back to the basics and buy Brand Name not Dreams. I just received a Stetson center dent panama from Mike the Hatter (4 day total delivery time) and although it’s only a fino grade Cuenca, it look nice…..
http://img530.imageshack.us/my.php?image=center2dj7.gif


So before you go to all of this trouble, just remember, nothing is free. And companies like Stetson, Biltmore, Beaver, etc still deliver a wearable hat. And that most people will never know they are not Montecristi.

 

[cookie]

Your Experience with Panama Hat Purchasers and Dodgy Dealers

"There are a thousand stories in the naked city.... and this... is just one of them!"

 

[Panamabob]

First of all, I'm not a dodgy dealer.

Second, I was up front and honest with him the entire time. I have ZERO control of things in Ecuador since I've left and it bites me so many times, I'm ready to quit. You guys know what these hats retail for at other places and what a deal you get. You made ZERO effort to let me know anything. I take care of each and every problem directly from my own wallet.

Third, he chose to receive a very fine hat. He got a very fine hat. He's vague up there, but I told him I didn't have the llano hat. He said that he would take the Brisa. Let's be very clear on this.

Fourth, if he wants to gum it up, more power to him.

Fifth, he made no attempt whatsoever to contact me about his lack of satisfaction.

Sixth, my name is Robert Weber aka Panamabob

Seventh, if tenacious is your middle name, why didn't you give me a call or another email?

 

[Joel Tunnah]

I like the courser weaves. They have a more casual look to them - less 'old man'.

 

[Panamabob]

Just thought I'd clarify it to myself. The weave and blocking are fine. You shouldn't gum up, size up, stiffen up a fine fine hat. Here's my last email to Tinman and the one he sent to me (Since he's started by sharing personal emails) and the hat he bought that I found on eBay is not from Don Rosendo. It was a Cuenca Brisa ladies hat that Don Rosendo wouldn't sell:



I hope you didn't pay too much for Don Rosendo's hat. Actually, Don Rosendo only supervises much anymore. You should see a tremendous difference between this hat and that. The brisa weave, the color, and the crown height.

I'll send the hat, it looks great. If you decide you'd like it, keep it. If not, return for refund.

Thanks,

Robert


Robert,
I am not so concerned with the style of weave (although, I understand that the Brisa is normally cheaper and faster to make).
What I am concerned about is the findness and blocking of the hat.
I ordered a Extra fino (I assumed a wpsi of around 500) is this hat that Fino ??
Is it blocked in a Caballero style?
If this hat meets these standards then please send it to me. if not, then we need to talk about a refund.
Please advise me which we are doing.
Thanks,
XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

ps I just aquired a Rosendo Delgado Fino for my wife and I would hate to look too bad beside of her.

 

[Undertow]

I'm not sure if I've posted this earlier, but I've found some panamas on the bay and I've also had a mixed bag. Of course, I purchased low weave counts due to Undertow=no money but I did receive a GREAT hat from one seller for only about $39 and one not so great (but still okay) for about $42.

It's a total crap shoot out there.

Don't worry Panamabob, I may buy one from you someday...if I could just get some more money!!