Hat Restoration

[Nic Charles]

I really hate the search engine here on Fedora Lounge, and cannot find a thread on hat restoration sources without going through 500 threads, So I decided to start a thread on the subject.:rage:

I need to find a good hat restoration source in the Chicago or Milwaukee area. I know there has to be a good place to get my newest (old original) Stetson fedora aquisition cleaned and restored. This fedora is very sound, but needs some work done on it. I got a tip at Reenactor Fest 5, but I'll be D___d if I can remember the name of the place.

This might be a good thread for listing sources for hat cleaning and restoration in other areas also.

 

[gtdean48]

Optimo is where my Stetson OR is right now...http://www.optimohats.com/

 

[jec]

Yes, and my thrift store Borsalino is there now, too. Full rebuild.

 

[Wil Tam]

I agree with others

Graham Thompson @ Optimo Hatters in Chicago

 

[Bob Smalser]

I just received my 1950's Cavanagh after a full rebuild with resizing at Optimo. Very nice work.

They take two weeks to get to it but once they call with the estimate, they complete the work within another two weeks. That's fast service. But regardless of what you think the hat needs, expect to receive a hard recommendation for a full rebuild, which is a hundred bucks.

For a full rebuild at lower cost, Catalena Hatters in Texas does a complete remanufacturing for 80 bucks, but takes a couple weeks longer. I'll report on them when I receive the Borsalino I sent to them.

http://www.catalenahats.com/restoration.html

To start the renovation process each hat is stripped of the old leather, lining and band. Hat is inspected for cuts, breaks, and holes in crown and brim. Surface dirt is removed and hat is chemically treated for different types of stain.

The hat is then thoroughly washed in a chemical solution to remove stains and embedded soil. Excess fluid is then extracted from the hat.

Once the hat is dry it is inspected to be sure it is as clean as possible and then stiffened.

Steam blocking is a process to establish the correct head size and crown height. At this time a hat can be made smaller or larger.

The brim and crown are then ironed to create a smooth working surface.

The crown and brim are then pounced, powdered and dry ragged to regain color and finish. This procedure can be repeated as many times as needed to gain the proper finish.

Even with machinery to insure a smooth quality finish, extensive handwork is done because no two hats are alike.

The hat is placed in a wooden flange and the brim is pressed to tighten, smooth, and form initial shape. The bag is filled with sand and heated to accomplish this.

The hats are then moved to the trim department for finishing. The first step is cutting and fitting each leather sweatband by hand to each individual hat to insure a proper and comfortable fit.

The leather sweatband is then hand guided and stitched to the hat.

The outside trim or ribbon is then tacked to the hat. The trims vary in color and width to give each hat an individual appeal.

Each hat is then custom fitted with a silk lining.

Each hat is processed thru a final inspection for finish and workmanship by qualified hatters before shipping. Shaping is done as per customer instructions.

 

[jec]

But regardless of what you think the hat needs, expect to receive a hard recommendation for a full rebuild, which is a hundred bucks.

Yes, Bob. That was exactly my experience with Optimo, as well. When I sent them the Borsalino, I thought it needed a few things that seemed to add up to less than a full rebuild. But no. They were set on the whole caboodle. It was more than I had hoped to spend, but once you've paid to ship the hat to Chicago, well.... what are you going to do? You really are stuck. So you say okay.

I know the quality of the work will be worth the cost and the expense.

I'll be curious to know whether you are as satisfied with the job done by Catalena Hatters.

Anyone have other hatters they have used for a full restoration?

 

[Nic Charles]

Optimo

Optimo is where my Stetson OR is right now...http://www.optimohats.com/

BINGO! I new it started with an "O" and Optimo it is! Thanks guys, I've heard nothing but good things about them and the other posts confirm what I've heard.

 

[gtdean48]

For a full rebuild at lower cost, Catalena Hatters in Texas does a complete remanufacturing for 80 bucks, but takes a couple weeks longer. I'll report on them when I receive the Borsalino I sent to them.

http://www.catalenahats.com/restoration.html

I have had Catalena Hatters do a few western hats for me over the years & have real good service & results from them.

 

[gtdean48]

Just got my hat back from Optimo for cleaning, blocking, sweatband replacement & new liner. It looks great. One thing I wish I had done was to specify to send back in open crown for me to crease instead of their teardrop crease. Highly satisfied with the work quality & materials though.:eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[rrog]

I also sent in a hat to Optimo. I simply wanted to have a binding put on the brim. They wouldn't do it unless I got the whole rebuild. They said it would ruin the hat if they tried to put on a binding without doing all the other stuff too (re-block, cleaning, new sweat band, etc.). I had already reshaped the crown to how I wanted it and it fit very well. So all I really wanted was a binding put on the brim. I didn't want to pay that much to get all the extra stuff done just to have a binding put on, so I asked them to send it back. To their credit, they returned in within two days at their expense. Also, maybe there is something about putting on brim bindings that make them have to do a rebuild, so understand that I'm talking out of ignorance here. If they really do have to do a rebuild to put on a binding, at least they were up front about it and the cost involved. BTW, the guy I talked to also said that for that kind of money, I ought to just go ahead and get a new custom hat. So although I didn't get what I wanted, he at least gave me some options.

rrog

 

[jec]

I also sent in a hat to Optimo. I simply wanted to have a binding put on the brim. They wouldn't do it unless I got the whole rebuild. They said it would ruin the hat if they tried to put on a binding without doing all the other stuff too (re-block, cleaning, new sweat band, etc.). I had already reshaped the crown to how I wanted it and it fit very well. So all I really wanted was a binding put on the brim. I didn't want to pay that much to get all the extra stuff done just to have a binding put on, so I asked them to send it back. To their credit, they returned in within two days at their expense. Also, maybe there is something about putting on brim bindings that make them have to do a rebuild, so understand that I'm talking out of ignorance here. If they really do have to do a rebuild to put on a binding, at least they were up front about it and the cost involved. BTW, the guy I talked to also said that for that kind of money, I ought to just go ahead and get a new custom hat. So although I didn't get what I wanted, he at least gave me some options.

rrog

rrog -

That is reassuring to hear that Optimo sent the hat back at THEIR expense when you rejected their estimate.

I sent a thrift shop Borsalino to them recently for extensive work that I did not expect would involve a rebuild - but which was close enough so that I did accept when they insisted on a full rebuild. BUT I was hesitant to say no, 'cause I thought I would have to pay for getting the hat back from Chicago, and once you've sunk another $22 into shipping a hat both ways.... well, you kind feel stuck...and you figure you might as well let them do the job.


(added comment: I see by scrolling above that I am starting to repeat myself. Sorry about that... Must be senility.)

 

[RHY]

Catalena Hats

I sent Catalena Hats an inquiry if they did fedoras as well as cowboy or western hats. They replied that they would work any any felt hat.
RHY

 

[rlk]

Optimo Hat Renovations

I've now taken about 15 hats to Optimo and have yet to do a full rebuild and only 3 required a new sweatband in addition to the basic $30.00 clean and block. They have all come back looking better than I could have expected. I do have the advantage of actually walking in to the store with hats in hand as its about an hour drive for me. I've never felt pushed to do a full rebuild.

 

[frussell]

Just a new sweatband

Does anybody have any other suggestions besides Art, Optimo, Catalena, etc... for just a sweatband replacement? I recently bought two vintage Resistols that are excellent, and I don't need anything done to them but new sweatbands put in. I want good thin REAL leather, not the cardboard leather some new hats have in them. I've used AZ-Tex hatters and Catalena for conversions and such, but they both tend to use a lot of hat stiffener, and I want to avoid that. These two old Resistols are in super shape, felt-wise, but the leather is breaking down. I'm looking for comfort, good workmanship, and a not too extensive turnaround time. Thanks, Frank.

 

[gtdean48]

I sent 2 vintage hats to Buckaroo Hatters & Major Mike Moore blocked them to open crown & put in new sweatbands. Nice work & nice sweatbands. Send him an email or PM. HTH

Does anybody have any other suggestions besides Art, Optimo, Catalena, etc... for just a sweatband replacement? I recently bought two vintage Resistols that are excellent, and I don't need anything done to them but new sweatbands put in. I want good thin REAL leather, not the cardboard leather some new hats have in them. I've used AZ-Tex hatters and Catalena for conversions and such, but they both tend to use a lot of hat stiffener, and I want to avoid that. These two old Resistols are in super shape, felt-wise, but the leather is breaking down. I'm looking for comfort, good workmanship, and a not too extensive turnaround time. Thanks, Frank.

 

[frussell]

Thanks GTD

I'm waiting for some hats to come back from the major right now. New ribbons. I haven't had him do any sweatbands yet, that's a good suggestion. Frank.

 

[150719541]

You can do any thing

With a little patience and ingenious all people can restore any hat, this cotton thread hat was with crown crushed, out ribbon and all fouled, was washed and lined, with a new ribbon and parrot feather, looks fine. The lion is amazed:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[fluteplayer07]

As a general question, as we're on the topic of sweatbands, does anyone still do kangaroo sweats? Art? Optimo? Major Moore?

 

[Woodfluter]

With a little patience and ingenious all people can restore any hat, ...:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

Well done my friend!
:eusa_clap :eusa_clap

And I agree. As a rule I'll try to find a way to do it myself, unless I have good reason to think it could be destructive. However, some folks have limited time, aren't as handy with certain kinds of operations or don't have the tools, and are happy knowing they'll get great results from turning it over to the professionals. Room for all here at the lounge...

I know this is a slight diversion, but on a related topic, will any of those aforementioned hat restorers do a straightforward edge binding on a hat in good condition, and what might that cost?

- Bill

 

[frussell]

major moore

I had Mike Moore put a bound edge on my Fed IV, and he did an excellent job. I don't remember the charge, but it was very reasonable, as all his prices are. He's doing two more for me right now. Frank