Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[belfastboy]

What do you use it for?

So you mount the block onto the turntable?

 

[TWKundrat]

So you mount the block onto the turntable?

Yes sir

 

[Darrell2688]

Yes sir

That would come in handy to use when pouncing the crown, I would have to have it on slow speed using 800 or 1000 grit. What size is the center pin? Someone that makes a lot of hats could use that turntable.

 

[TWKundrat]

That would come in handy to use when pouncing the crown, I would have to have it on slow speed using 800 or 1000 grit. What size is the center pin? Someone that makes a lot of hats could use that turntable.

The pin is 7/8". I found that several old blocks I have run across have a 7/8" hole. It can be used with 1" hole blocks also.

 

[belfastboy]

The pin is 7/8". I found that several old blocks I have run across have a 7/8" hole. It can be used with 1" hole blocks also.

I have a real mixture of vintage and new blocks and the hole size varies a great deal. Some are a hair under 3/4".

 

[TWKundrat]

I have a real mixture of vintage and new blocks and the hole size varies a great deal. Some are a hair under 3/4".

Yeah, I have seen a wide variation of hole sizes as well on old blocks. The 7/8" pin will work for my needs but it could be easily made a smaller diameter with sleeves that slide over the pin to bump it up to the larger sizes.

 

[belfastboy]

Yeah, I have seen a wide variation of hole sizes as well on old blocks. The 7/8" pin will work for my needs but it could be easily made a smaller diameter with sleeves that slide over the pin to bump it up to the larger sizes.

I use reducers on my home made block stands to change the diametre of the pipe.

 

[K.U.Hack]

Yeah, I have seen a wide variation of hole sizes as well on old blocks. The 7/8" pin will work for my needs but it could be easily made a smaller diameter with sleeves that slide over the pin to bump it up to the larger sizes.

 

[TWKundrat]

View attachment 519732

Cool idea. Might be a little tricky to integrate into the spindle though. I think sleeves would work pretty well and it keeps things simple.

 

[belfastboy]

Just in the final stages of completing my most difficult hat build.

The female client has the most difficult head shape I have encountered. Broad at the back and tapering greatly to the front. She called it weird but I said we needed to give it a less insulting descriptor. So we settled on "teardrop shaped".

I first blocked it on a long oval block but when she came in for the fitting I did not get it right as the gaps at the temples were still very large. I attempted to correct it with the sweat band in place but that did not work well enough. So I tore the hat back down to felt and started again.

This time I took a cheap hat stretcher and sanded down the front curves to match her much narrower front footprint but slightly stretching the back curves at their regular oval width. This did not affect the long oval profile of the crown. I used a blocking cord to cinch in the felt at the brim break to force it to conform to the new footprint.

She came to the shop last night for another fitting and this time.....big sigh of relief.......it fit perfectly.

My initial mistake was not taking into account that I was using a western weight, stiff beaver blend felt that had zero forgiveness.

I have much more respect for hatters working with stiff western weight as they have to nail the initial fit as the felt will not conform like a softer 95gr dress weight. So today we sew the trimmings and off it goes to the Calgary Stampede. The client is thrilled as for the first time in her life she has a hat that actually fits her head!

 

[Darrell2688]

Just in the final stages of completing my most difficult hat build.

The female client has the most difficult head shape I have encountered. Broad at the back and tapering greatly to the front. She called it weird but I said we needed to give it a less insulting descriptor. So we settled on "teardrop shaped".

I first blocked it on a long oval block but when she came in for the fitting I did not get it right as the gaps at the temples were still very large. I attempted to correct it with the sweat band in place but that did not work well enough. So I tore the hat back down to felt and started again.

This time I took a cheap hat stretcher and sanded down the front curves to match her much narrower front footprint but slightly stretching the back curves at their regular oval width. This did not affect the long oval profile of the crown. I used a blocking cord to cinch in the felt at the brim break to force it to conform to the new footprint.

She came to the shop last night for another fitting and this time.....big sigh of relief.......it fit perfectly.

My initial mistake was not taking into account that I was using a western weight, stiff beaver blend felt that had zero forgiveness.

I have much more respect for hatters working with stiff western weight as they have to nail the initial fit as the felt will not conform like a softer 95gr dress weight. So today we sew the trimmings and off it goes to the Calgary Stampede. The client is thrilled as for the first time in her life she has a hat that actually fits her head!

Hang onto that hat stretcher, you may want to put her initials on it, she will be back for another hat for sure. You're most likely the only person that would go the distance to make a hat that actually fit her. Outstanding work, proves that you will go the distance to make your customers happy.

 

[belfastboy]

Hang onto that hat stretcher, you may want to put her initials on it, she will be back for another hat for sure. You're most likely the only person that would go the distance to make a hat that actually fit her. Outstanding work, proves that you will go the distance to make your customers happy.

I think I will cut her a band block to match her footprint because, yes, I think she will be back. She is a great client. Her husband has just ordered his 3rd hat and her sister has one as well. But I was beginning to fear I had bitten off more than my capabilities. I may not be talented by I am dogged!!

 

[Darrell2688]

I think I will cut her a band block to match her profile because, yes, I think she will be back. She is a great client. Her husband has just ordered his 3rd hat and her sister has one as well. But I was beginning to fear I had bitten off more than my capabilities. I may not be talented by I am dogged!!

I happen to think that you are very talented, you just don't give yourself enough credit, the doggedness is your nature and that is the driving force behind your want and need to learn hat making. You have to have that kind of drive to learn hat making on your own and you stick with a problem until the problem has been resolved, you're going to make a band block for her, all I can say is Outstanding work, bravo, Good Show.

 

[Who?]

If this is the first time she has had a hat which fit, I dare say she will be back.

 

[belfastboy]

If this is the first time she has had a hat which fit, I dare say she will be back.

Even if she found a hat on a long oval block the gaps at the temples were still at least one finger wide and the hats would feel 'wobbly' (her term) on her head.

 

[Who?]

Even if she found a hat on a long oval block the gaps at the temples were still at least one finger wide and the hats would feel 'wobbly' (her term) on her head.

When you finish the block, would you be willing to post a photo, for our edification?

 

[belfastboy]

When you finish the block, would you be willing to post a photo, for our edification?

Yes, I have an earlier one I used to make a hat for a friend who was a true Extra Long Oval. It looks like racing sloop at the front and a tug boat at the rear.

 

[Rmccamey]

I have a specific question, so I thought I would post it here. After reviewing lots of pages on TFL, it looks like Stetson bowlers very often used block 522 (and 542). Would any of you have the technical details on block 522 or where to look to find them?

 

[Frunobulax]

I have a specific question, so I thought I would post it here. After reviewing lots of pages on TFL, it looks like Stetson bowlers very often used block 522 (and 542). Would any of you have the technical details on block 522 or where to look to find them?

Not sure if you'll find your answer here, but it should be a good place to start.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/stetson-block-profile-numbers.62324/

 

[Rmccamey]

Thank you. Yes,, I did dig through that thread but it is mostly a list of block numbers by brand and model, not a detailed description of the block profiles.

Not sure if you'll find your answer here, but it should be a good place to start.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/stetson-block-profile-numbers.62324/