Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[belfastboy]

I like it when you post information like this, I thought the holes from stitching couldn't be removed until you posted this information, another copy and paste into a Microsoft Word document. The little hat bow sitting at 3 O'clock position is a weird one.

Yes, I did not know either. I had suggested to the customer we remove the binding and then add a row of slightly contrasting stitching. But the felt was soft/thick so I figured it was worth a shot to try. It worked out much better than I thought. It might not work as well on a stiffer felt as the steam might not collapse the stitching holes.

 

[BobHufford]

For some inexplicable reason an owner sewed in the sweat, upside down , with the little bow sitting at 3:00 o'clock instead of 12.

Maybe they thought it would even out the wear and the sweat band would last longer.

 

[belfastboy]

Maybe they thought it would even out the wear and the sweat band would last longer.

The guy might be on to something!

 

[dmeist]

Finished a couple more hats. Both are 100% Beaver, Lite Belly and Granite.

 

[TWKundrat]

I have a hat block question. On factory made hat blocks, is a 1 inch center hole pretty standard? I feel like I've seen some that look smaller but I'm not sure. I'm working on making some powered spinners and I want to make sure that they would be usable with most blocks. Thanks

 

[belfastboy]

I have a hat block question. On factory made hat blocks, is a 1 inch center hole pretty standard? I feel like I've seen some that look smaller but I'm not sure. I'm working on making some powered spinners and I want to make sure that they would be usable with most blocks. Thanks

Most block makers that I deal with are one man shops, they are craftsmen/artisans and can make the blocks to your spec. I have blocks from many makers and many vintage as well. The vintage blocks tend to have the smaller diametre holes but not necessarily. The holes seem to be of two sizes. I don't have any powered spinners just do it by hand . I have a few block stands with varying diametres of pipe so it doesn't matter to me.

 

[TWKundrat]

Most block makers that I deal with are one man shops, they are craftsmen/artisans and can make the blocks to your spec. I have blocks from many makers and many vintage as well. The vintage blocks tend to have the smaller diametre holes but not necessarily. The holes seem to be of two sizes. I don't have any powered spinners just do it by hand . I have a few block stands with varying diametres of pipe so it doesn't matter to me.

I appreciate the reply. I know that the few block makers out there today seem to be pretty flexible with custom features. I'm wondering as far as all of the old factory made hat blocks out there if there was one or two standard hole sizes or if it varies between the different makers? I'd like to be able to accommodate most blocks that are out there, so if there was a standard smaller hole size I could make the spindle that size with a sleeve that can be used for the 1 inch holes.

 

[belfastboy]

I appreciate the reply. I know that the few block makers out there today seem to be pretty flexible with custom features. I'm wondering as far as all of the old factory made hat blocks out there if there was one or two standard hole sizes or if it varies between the different makers? I'd like to be able to accommodate most blocks that are out there, so if there was a standard smaller hole size I could make the spindle that size with a sleeve that can be used for the 1 inch holes.

I have two sizes. I will be in the shop later and will throw the caliper on them and let you know.

 

[TWKundrat]

I have two sizes. I will be in the shop later and will throw the caliper on them and let you know.

Awesome. I appreciate it

 

[belfastboy]

Awesome. I appreciate it

I measured 3 of my vintage blocks. All 3 are different: 10, 12.5 and 15mm. Although the 15 mm one has no metal reinforcment only wooden so it could have been enlarged over the years.

 

[TWKundrat]

Oh wow. Those are all pretty tiny. Most that I have seen look to be around 3/4" or larger. Thanks for checking yours

 

[belfastboy]

Oh wow. Those are all pretty tiny. Most that I have seen look to be around 3/4" or larger. Thanks for checking yours

Yes, my new blocks all have the larger holes.

 

[dmeist]

I've purchased all of my blocks from Hat Blocks Australia. They are 1 1/16 inch.

 

[TWKundrat]

I've purchased all of my blocks from Hat Blocks Australia. They are 1 1/16 inch.

Thanks. It seems like most of the new ones I have seen are 1" or just over. A few of the vintage ones that I have are also 1" and one is 3/4"ish but wallowed out pretty good so it's around 7/8" now. I'm thinking maybe 3/4" was a common size also from some pictures I've seen.

 

[K.U.Hack]

1 down, three to go. 1-3/4" wide. Full-grain vegetable tanned goat (2-3oz). Oilskin cotton (7oz). Silk reed tape. Silk bow. All visible thread is silk. All other thread is cotton.

 

[dmeist]

Fedora Question – What weight felt is best for a fedora? I have 95g, which seems very flimsy and I have a 120g which is better. The 160g may almost be too much. Do they hold the shape or do you need more shellac to them?

 

[belfastboy]

Fedora Question – What weight felt is best for a fedora? I have 95g, which seems very flimsy and I have a 120g which is better. The 160g may almost be too much. Do they hold the shape or do you need more shellac to them?

As most things the answer is: it depends. What style? How wide a brim? I have a number of the 95 gram beaver I made for myself with 3" brims. I flanged them with just a very slight cupping and then bound the brim. That was enough to give the brim structure and I did not need any shellac
The full 6" crowns are wonderful as they take a dry bash and hold fairly well. To shellac these brims is a bit of sacrilege as you are paying for that soft vintage feel so to shellac it is to negate that aspect you just paid extra for.

The FEPSA 120 gram rabbit I find is much more flimsy and needs shellac for anything wider than about a 2 1/2" brim and even at that needs a fairly deep cup on the flange.
.
I really like the 160gram Ukraine, both rabbit and beaver. I use these felts for those clients that don't want the soft vintage feel of the 95 gram. I give the felts lots of pouncing to thin the crown and give it some softness but leave the brims as they are. I can make a true flat brimmed hat with the 160gram.

 

[dmeist]

As most things the answer is: it depends. What style? How wide a brim? I have a number of the 95 gram beaver I made for myself with 3" brims. I flanged them with just a very slight cupping and then bound the brim. That was enough to give the brim structure and I did not need any shellac
The full 6" crowns are wonderful as they take a dry bash and hold fairly well. To shellac these brims is a bit of sacrilege as you are paying for that soft vintage feel so to shellac it is to negate that aspect you just paid extra for.

The FEPSA 120 gram rabbit I find is much more flimsy and needs shellac for anything wider than about a 2 1/2" brim and even at that needs a fairly deep cup on the flange.
.
I really like the 160gram Ukraine, both rabbit and beaver. I use these felts for those clients that don't want the soft vintage feel of the 95 gram. I give the felts lots of pouncing to thin the crown and give it some softness but leave the brims as they are. I can make a true flat brimmed hat with the 160gram.

Thanks for the feedback. I was more concern about the crown holding the crease than the brim. I'll give it a try with what I have and see how they turn out.

 

[belfastboy]

Thanks for the feedback. I was more concern about the crown holding the crease than the brim. I'll give it a try with what I have and see how they turn out.

I love the crowns on my 95gr felts. They are the closest I have found to replicating that vintage softness/yet substance. To my needs they stay bashed really well. I have a Commano, Flagstone, and a Silverbelly...all with 6" crowns.

 

[Darrell2688]

Here is an update of my rounding jack, I have made a few changes to it and I might make a few more changes, I am always looking for ways to improve it. The base is 7" long, tip to tip and 1 1/16" wide in the center, I flared the tips out a little so the base would work on a long oval, when I put it up against my 60cm block, the tips don't touch the block, I put a small piece of 1/16" thick aluminum between the brass sheet and the wood to strengthen the top section and hopefully help to keep the rounding jack level when the felt is place between the wood and the brass sheet. The two thumb screws at the end are used to hold the center section firm when cutting, the cutting blade can be put in with the blade facing either direction, so either push or pull the rounding jack when cutting the brim. Here are a few photos on my rounding jack.