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The AC 23383 contract was awarded to Fried Ostermann Co on 22nd December 1941. The contract was for 8,000 jackets. They were made from either seal or russet goatskin. John Chapman has made examples of both and they all have these distinguishing Characteristics:
•Unusual collar stand attachment and truncation before the wind flap.
•Unusual epaulet construction with the top layer folded around the bottom layer.
•Double top-stitched shoulder seam centered under the epaulet.
•Covered zipper similar to Navy jackets.
•Wide spacing of top-stitching from seam joints and around pockets.
•No particular reinforcement stitching on top corners of pockets.
•Tags inside each pocket, but sewn to the body.
•Rotated inset sleeve seam, and reversed body side seam.
•Leather waist tabs constructed more like Navy jackets.
•Hanger attached by vertical bar-tacking.
•Use of goatskin, possibly for entire production.
This example which is John's test jacket was bought on Ebay a few weeks back and I'm extremely pleased with it. The Indian goatskin is superb and the fit is spot on IMO. I would highly recommend this contract with its unusual features.
•Unusual collar stand attachment and truncation before the wind flap.
•Unusual epaulet construction with the top layer folded around the bottom layer.
•Double top-stitched shoulder seam centered under the epaulet.
•Covered zipper similar to Navy jackets.
•Wide spacing of top-stitching from seam joints and around pockets.
•No particular reinforcement stitching on top corners of pockets.
•Tags inside each pocket, but sewn to the body.
•Rotated inset sleeve seam, and reversed body side seam.
•Leather waist tabs constructed more like Navy jackets.
•Hanger attached by vertical bar-tacking.
•Use of goatskin, possibly for entire production.
This example which is John's test jacket was bought on Ebay a few weeks back and I'm extremely pleased with it. The Indian goatskin is superb and the fit is spot on IMO. I would highly recommend this contract with its unusual features.
