Gum Tragacanth as a crown stiffener

[ChicagoWayVito]

In most hats that I have made I have used gum tragacanth as a crown stiffener. It is applied as paste to the inside of the crown prior to shaping, once applied then you can shape and let dry overnight. It leaves a film on the felt. It is also discussed by Henry Ermatinger in his book Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovating.

Does anyone know if their hats that they have purchased have been stiffened this way?
Does anyone know custom hatters like Art Fawcett (Vintage Silhouettes), navarre (Black Sheep Hat Works), bendingoak (Penman Hats) or any other custom hatter use gum tragacanth as a stiffener?

 

[Fed in a Fedora]

Interesting idea. I have a bottle of this which was used on leather projects. It does stiffen and permit leather to be burnished to a very slick and durable finish. Great product for leather finishing. It does not seem to change the color of leather in my experience.

Never thought to use it on felt, but after Googling it, there is a patent application for a George Shevill from 1912 which was approved in 1914 for exactly that purpose. The text describes the process pretty well.

If used on the inside, does this show in any way on the outside? His process seems to suggest that a bleach is needed only for white hats.

Thanks for mentioning this.

Fed

 

[Art Fawcett]

This is somewhat common in Western hats and in fact JW Hats uses it extensively, at least the last time I was at Jims he was. I can't speak for other hatters but I do not use it unless I want a hat to drive nails with. It can't be used on the exterior as you noted, it messes up the finish of the felt.

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

This is somewhat common in Western hats and in fact JW Hats uses it extensively, at least the last time I was at Jims he was. I can't speak for other hatters but I do not use it unless I want a hat to drive nails with. It can't be used on the exterior as you noted, it messes up the finish of the felt.

I appreciate the reply. And yes Jim still uses it which is where I picked it up from. I have spent about 8 days in his shop learning the craft. I hope to come by your shop in the near future. Will PM you when ready.

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

If used on the inside, does this show in any way on the outside? His process seems to suggest that a bleach is needed only for white hats.
Fed

I have not experienced it bleeding through to the outside at all. It does make shaping a little tricky if you have to touch the paste on the inside of the crown as part of the shaping as you need to immediately wash it off so it doesn't get to other parts of the hat.

Thanks for the information on the patent, going to look that up now.

 

[Fed in a Fedora]

Art,

Thanks for the info. I have one particularly floppy hat which might be used as a learning project.

Fed

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

I have one particularly floppy hat which might be used as a learning project.

Not sure how you mixed this previously for leather work but the way that I have done this and was taught was to take one table spoon of gum tragacanth and fill a blender halfway with water and then add the gum tragacanth. You don't blend it for long, about 10 - 12 seconds. If you do it a day a head of time it will gain a little body to it. Also, I bought a cheap $15 blender for only this purpose. When all said and done use a cheap clean paint brush and then apply to the inside of the crown and only the inside, also do not apply it to the brim. The paste was applied to open crown then I misted the outside of the crown with distilled water and began shaping then let dry overnight.

 

[-30-]

"I can't speak for other hatters but I do not use it unless I want a hat to drive nails with."
Art Fawcett.

If only Mr Edward Coke/Lock & Co/Thom & Wm Bowler had known!

Regards,
J T

 

[Fed in a Fedora]

Not sure how you mixed this previously for leather work but the way that I have done this and was taught was to take one table spoon of gum tragacanth and fill a blender halfway with water and then add the gum tragacanth. You don't blend it for long, about 10 - 12 seconds. If you do it a day a head of time it will gain a little body to it. Also, I bought a cheap $15 blender for only this purpose. When all said and done use a cheap clean paint brush and then apply to the inside of the crown and only the inside, also do not apply it to the brim. The paste was applied to open crown then I misted the outside of the crown with distilled water and began shaping then let dry overnight.

Thanks!