Got blocked by Simmons Bilt Instagram because my comment

[ton312]

I had never heard of Instagram until I saw it awhile back on the Lounge for the first time and had to google "Instagram" to find out what it was.

The nice thing about it is the genuine nature of the content.

 

[red devil]

I've got a pair of the Iron Heart 1955 21/23 oz jeans too @l0fielectronic. I've had them for four years, and they're starting to show signs of blowing out in the crotch. Admittedly, they don't get as much wear these days as Melbourne is often too warm.

As for distribution, I believe that the deal is that Haraki has Japan, whereas Giles and Iron Heart UK runs the distribution for the rest of the world.

Giles tends to keep prices pretty similar in his territory. There'll be some fluctuations due to currency movements, but these are what a pair of IH-634S costs from various retailers around the world.

• Iron Heart (Japan): ¥25,920 ($234 / £177 / €198)
• Iron Heart (UK): $325 / £250 / €280
• Rivet and Hide (UK): £255
• Self Edge (US): $325
• Vater und Sohn (DE): €319
• Burg und Schild (DE): €309

The ex-tax price for the 634s is ¥24,000, which is £164. Add on UK VAT and that rises to £197, then there's import duties (5%) and postage (both included in what Iron Heart UK charges), and it's probably not a big difference.

I agree that some of the other Japanese brands can be sourced much cheaper via Rakuten.

The prices are pretty similar indeed, thanks for sharing!
I didn't have a single bad experience with them so far. Great products and great service.

 

[Edward]

If you can't mantain a business you don't open it. As simple as that, why do customers have to pay more just because they live in another country? If buying from another country which ironically is the one where the product is made is cheaper, why would a client find useful to have to buy from his own country at the expense of paying a premium price? We live in a globally connected world and trying to put barriers to it it's dumb.

Happens with a lot of products and I'm not falling for it. I've bought stuff from Japan directly and I've payed for the items including shipping almost half the price and it came faster than from the UK! From Japan in 2 days at half the price including shipping. Why would I buy from the UK with a worse price and a worse and slower shipping? You don't punish the customer if you can't do it better, you try to offer a better customer service instead and if you can't then you shouldn't blame the customers for doing what it's best for them.

I'm far from unsympathetic to the way you view it, believe me. The reality of this sort of business, however, is that if they want to sign up retailers / distributors in another territory, they're unlikely to find any takers unless they agree not to undercut them. You can imagine how long that relationship would last if the distributor invested significantly in stock only to discover that the company was selling online at half the price to the distributor's market. Equally, there are companies I've simply refused to buy from because of an excessive UK mark-up (where that mark-up, of course, is big enough not to be eaten up by shipping and import duties). It's just the way of the business world, I guess - and it'll continue for as long as people are prepared to keep buying into it. A lot will always depend on whether it suits a company to do direct business with the customer globally, or to work with a local distributor.

Where I really got bitten by this some years back was over a guitar. A very specific product that nothing else worked for as a substitute for me. The US based company refused to sell me one because of an arrangement with the UK based distributor who not only wanted to charge twice the price for all models but, it turned out, didn't even carry the sole left-handed option that was the one I needed. Ended up buying used, so in the end they both lost out!

 

[ProteinNerd]

I'm curious about Levis' 501ct (Custom Taper).

I have a pair of Levi 501ct. They are a touch smaller in the ankle than I'd prefer, somewhere in between the regular and the ct would be idea

I'll probably get my Gustin Okayama standards trimmed down through the ankle at some stage, the regular Gustin straight fit is a bit wide through the leg but the slim fit looks way too slim for me.

 

[Sloan1874]

Personally, I love the wide leg and high waist of the original, early denim fits. If you're not too large, they really flatter you by extending the length of your legs and emphasizing the waist.

 

[ton312]

I should really look into the gustin jeans. I too have a pair of IH that I really do like but they are a bit like wearing snow suit/snowmobile pants. I tend to default to my cheap Levi 514's or a couple pair of (gasp) diesel jeans I have. I guess what I don't understand is how you order from them. They need to produce a certain build request before anything gets done no?

 

[ButteMT61]

I should really look into the gustin jeans. I too have a pair of IH that I really do like but they are a bit like wearing snow suit/snowmobile pants. I tend to default to my cheap Levi 514's or a couple pair of (gasp) diesel jeans I have. I guess what I don't understand is how you order from them. They need to produce a certain build request before anything gets done no?

They have "campaigns" - sorta mini kick starters.
Once they fund, they go into production.
Once done, they ship. Only issue is lead time if you NEED 'em now. But they do have an in stock link on top - if you're lucky, you can get something right off in your size.
I've got ~10 pairs or so and still like them. I also have some Lucky selvedge that are actually good. And they do make 36" inseams...

 

[ton312]

They have "campaigns" - sorta mini kick starters.
Once they fund, they go into production.
Once done, they ship. Only issue is lead time if you NEED 'em now. But they do have an in stock link on top - if you're lucky, you can get something right off in your size.
I've got ~10 pairs or so and still like them. I also have some Lucky selvedge that are actually good. And they do make 36" inseams...

Thanks Butte. I'm going to look at their site again. Heard so many good things around here. Haven't been over there since they put out the CXL jacket and I didn't meander around much.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Sizing them can be a pain, measure and re measure again. I've found them to be on the snug side of the measurements as well.

I quite like the two pairs I have but you can't be in a rush to get your stuff from Gustin. I've been waiting 4 months for a pair of CXL high top sneakers and they still won't ship for another few weeks....

 

[ton312]

Sizing them can be a pain, measure and re measure again. I've found them to be on the snug side of the measurements as well.

I quite like the two pairs I have but you can't be in a rush to get your stuff from Gustin. I've been waiting 4 months for a pair of CXL high top sneakers and they still won't ship for another few weeks....

Wow. So they wait to get something funded, i.e. Enough buyers then they send off to production...you must have to pay upfront then yes?

 

[ProteinNerd]

You get charged when enough people back it and it "funds". If it fails to get enough backers you never get charged.

 

[ton312]

That's interesting. I guess it's a good fail safe so they aren't struggling to issue returns. I'm going to check them out. More and more I just want simple, plain jeans without labels and a standard, straight cut. No treatments, wiskering, etc.
I can't afford to get all nuts about jeans tho. I've got more than enough problems with the jackets.

 

[handymike]

I've gone to Levis 505s. Slightly higher rise and a nice width at the opening. I would love to try a pair of the Euro Lees one day, they look nice.

 

[Fanch]

That's interesting. I guess it's a good fail safe so they aren't struggling to issue returns. I'm going to check them out. More and more I just want simple, plain jeans without labels and a standard, straight cut. No treatments, wiskering, etc.
I can't afford to get all nuts about jeans tho. I've got more than enough problems with the jackets.

My two favorites are their Zimbabwe and Okayama Standard jeans. Right now their Okayama Standard is almost funded, and if you move quickly you should be able to get what you want. However, I recommend going with the straight fit in your size rather than slim or skinny. Pay special attention to the way the waist is set though, and order based on measuring the waist of jeans you already have and comparing with Gustin's sizing chart.

https://www.weargustin.com/store/5653

 

[Sloan1874]

I would say that the two styles Fanch mention are absolutely the best Gustin offer. I've had others, but none of them get half the wear that my Okays and Zimbys receive.

 

[handymike]

Irregardless of your denim choice, the fit determines if mine get worn. I find Gustins straight fit to be tight in the butt & across the front while oddly roomy in the thigh. I'm with Sloan and Fanch on the 2 fabrics they mention.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I think it's pretty clear what happened here for anyone who has been around a few years. Back around 2012, the Caulders discovered that Will Lauder, then MD of Aero, had been up to mischief, including passing off steerhide as FQHH. A perfectly good hide in its own right, but ultimately cheaper to produce, and not what the customer had ordered and paid for. This became known as the 'sTorse' scandal. I'm sure hte old threads are all still here. Lauder left Aero under a cloud; it also came out that he had helped himself to GBP200K's worth of stock, and he did prison time for that. After leaving Aero, Will had been involved in setting up Alexander Leathers; after his conviction, Will left their employment and AL rebranded itself as Simmonds Bilt. SB continue to be controversial for one reason and another, though clearly they attract enough custom to stay in business. I imagine they don't relish the association with Lauder now, and would rather shut down a comment which they obviously read as a reference to the Storse controversy than have it all flare up again. It seems that's what simply happened here: OP has made perhaps an innocent comment but it has been interpreted as trolling and blocked. In the context, I don't think this is entirely surprising.



Iron Heart have long seemed to attract a certain customer profile. I guess that's the nature of niche businesses! Looked at some of their stuff a long time ago myself, but was put off dealing with them for one reason or another. Not looked for a long time - did they stick with SB after the rebrand? I remember tem starting out with Aero then moving to AL with Will. The leather jackets that were made for them at Aero looked nicely done early on, though I couldn't have lived with the comically over-sized zips they specified.

They still seem to have a relationship with Simmons Bilt, but have now been having their leathers made by Four Speed Leathers in Japan and have taken to talking smack on Shinki and those who use it at an excessive rate.

I have a couple of Iron Heart shirts that I like, but I own none of their jeans. They have rubbed me the wrong way too many times and I don't find their fabrics interesting.

 

[ton312]

My two favorites are their Zimbabwe and Okayama Standard jeans. Right now their Okayama Standard is almost funded, and if you move quickly you should be able to get what you want. However, I recommend going with the straight fit in your size rather than slim or skinny. Pay special attention to the way the waist is set though, and order based on measuring the waist of jeans you already have and comparing with Gustin's sizing chart.

https://www.weargustin.com/store/5653

Thanks Fanch. For sure. As soon as the words slim or skinny appear. I'm out.
Those jeans look really nice and seem reasonably priced. I'm going to back those in a straight cut and see how they work out. Hopefully they make it. Seems likely given the percentage listed.

 

[Fanch]

I think the way certain cuts of jeans fit is for the most part a function of one's anatomic proportions more than anything else. With my sparrow legs, I am able to wear Gustin's slim fit, but the reason I gave away my slim Okayamas was because of the relatively low rise in the front that bit into my crotch. However, the straight fit is comfortable, and I can even wear my cowboy boots with the straight Gustins. Like @handymike I hate jeans that are "tight in the butt & across the front." Again @ton312 just make sure the waist size is correct, keeping in mind something slightly too tight will make you but slightly too loose will make you

 

[tropicalbob]

Thanks Fanch. For sure. As soon as the words slim or skinny appear. I'm out.
Those jeans look really nice and seem reasonably priced. I'm going to back those in a straight cut and see how they work out. Hopefully they make it. Seems likely given the percentage listed.

One thing I'll say for them: they're pretty accurate in the sizing - I have five pairs and they've all been on the money. Just make sure you're completely honest with yourself when you measure. I was kidding myself a bit on the first pair and now my kid has them.