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Goodwear Leather Monarch M-422 *New*

Aged'or

New in Town
Messages
9
I’m offering here for sale a brand new and unworn USN M422 Flight Jacket from Goodwear Leather Co.

The M-422 leather jacket was worn by US Navy pilots throughout WW2. The one on offer is, like the original, made of goatskin leather in a beautiful "Seal Brown". Unlike e.g. Eastman Leather, for example, which is already a larger manufacturer, John Chapman of Good Wear still makes the jackets all by himself and creates a vintage look in his leather jackets that is incomparable in my humble opinion. The model on offer is an exact replica of an original contract jacket made by Monarch Mfg. Co. from 1940, true right down to the last detail, from the cut to the leather quality to the fabrics, knit cuffs and even the grade and color of yarns used.

The offered jacket is US size 48, which corresponds to something around an XXL to XXXL, but it is a slim cut and therefore the conversion by usual size tables does not really hold true; I would rate it an XXL but have provided the exact measurements below. I ordered this jacket at Goodwear for myself and it was made with NOS Talon zipper and vintage Mouton shearling collar in a quality that is no longer available today. Unfortunately, despite ordering to measure, the jacket turned out too big for me, more precisely it is too long in both the sleeves and torso and I am putting it up for sale here with a bleeding heart. The sleeves could have been shortened without any problems, but not the torso due to the complicated construction with the bi-swing back. I'm about 188cm tall (6’2”), so the buyer should be a little taller than that. I assume it will fit someone over 195cm/6'3" to well over 200cm/6'5”. Here are the exact measurements of the jacket measured lying flat:
- Single width under arms: 61cm/24”
- Single width at the bottom of the cuff: 55cm/21.7”
- Shoulder width: 52cm/20.5”
- Back length incl. collar and cuffs: 75cm/29.5” (without collar 70cm/27.6” and without cuffs 61cm/24”)
- Sleeve length from shoulder seam with cuff: 70cm/27.6” (without knitted cuff 63cm/24.8”)

I paid over 2,200€ (approx. 2,600 USD) including the extras like NOS Talon zipper and vintage Mouton collar as well as customs and import duties to Germany...not to mention a very long three years of waiting time as John Chapman’s backlog is veeery loooong. I’m willing to part with the jacket for a price of 2,300 USD including international shipping.

Please buy with confidence, the jacket comes from a pet, smoker and COVID free household. I’m located in Southern Germany near Munich, so should you be in the vicinity, I’m happy to arrange a meeting for trying the jacket on. I unfortunately do not offer returns, so don’t hesitate to contact me if you are interested and have questions!

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Aged'or

New in Town
Messages
9
Here you go... as said, I would say it’s one size too large in the body and too long overall:
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Here is, for comparison, an Eastman Leather M-422a in a size 44 and the way I believe these jackets should fit...snug and short enough not to roll up at the bottom sitting in a tight cockpit:

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I bought the latter quite recently from another member of this forum in an attempt to replace the Goodwear and cheer me up a bit. Whilst Eastman makes good jackets, IMHO their quality of craftsmanship (e.g. seams) and overall looks of the jackets are nowhere near Goodwear. I know Gary Eastman would (and quite rightly so) argue however that the originals where mass produced and nowhere near perfect either.... but at the price point we’re talking about with today’s jackets I still believe my criticism is a valid point. Just my personal opinion though... still love the Eastman jackets nonetheless.
 
Last edited:

CBI

One Too Many
Messages
1,419
Location
USA
what a great GW!!!

if you were to wear something a little thicker under the GW, I would think it would fit fine. Of course YOU have to be comfortable with it. IMO in re fit, I think the side/back of the GW looks better in re fit than the ELC. Yes, I can see what you mean in re your concerns about the GW fit but I'll bet if you were to wear it for 6 months, wear with a heaver shirt, sweater maybe you may end up wanting to keep it! GLWTS!
 

Aged'or

New in Town
Messages
9
Thanks CBI! Your kind words are much appreciated.
I admit, I’ve been turning this over and over. You know that the mistake that led to the jacket being too large was entirely mine? I asked John Chapman (who is a fantastic guy with an incredibly customer orientation) to make it so I could wear it as a winter jacket with a sweater underneath, so he logically sized it up. I’ve really been torn about selling it , but what bugs me most is the leather flap at the bottom of the zipper that feels like a loin cloth when I sit in the car. It just doesn’t feel right even with the thickest sweater I have underneath (a chunky hand-knit original Aran sweater), so I think finding it a new home with someone, whom this jacket really fits, does Mr. Chapman‘s masterpiece more honor.
 

nick123

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,371
Location
California
I see your point regarding the length. If it gives you any consolation, mine also fits long like that (and I’m a tall guy). I think it may be how John has done the pattern. But that’s only a hunch.

I’m very much with you in preferring a slightly shorter jacket, but man, your jacket is a lovely thing.
 

Aged'or

New in Town
Messages
9
Dear fellow forum members,

you are wonderful and I sincerely treasure your advice! I‘ll sleep over the idea of keeping the jacket and keep the offer open for the time being for anyone interested.
 

dopey

One of the Regulars
Messages
134
Another suggestion for you. I have a Lost Worlds G-1 that fits me wonderfully at the chest and shoulders and through the body, but is a bit long for my taste. Like you, I think this looks best as a shorter jacket sitting at the top of the hips. It is fine in the back but, because of the leather pieces at the base of the zipper, it is too long in the front, as you note, for my taste. So I simply fold the bottom of the jacket so the body hangs over the knit, and it "tunnels". It took some work to get the leather to flex there (I folded it and put it under some furniture) but now it sits exactly the way I like it and is quite comfortable and looks right.
 

Aged'or

New in Town
Messages
9
Dear Forum Members,

I am resurrecting this thread and the sales offer for the Goodwear Leather Monarch M422a and putting it up for sale again. I’ve really tried my best and worn it maybe 4 or 5 times, but it’s not getting the love this beautiful jacket deserves as it is just simply too long for my liking. It’s still in brand new condition without any sign of use.

I’m willing to part with it for 1.500$ OBO or alternatively willing to swap it if somebody has an Aero Leather or Eastman Irvin Jacket (preferably the 1942 version) or ANJ4 in size 46. Just PM me!
 

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