Gold lamp light

[Stearmen]

Bump.

I was reading an article about the phase-out of incandesent bulbs after the 1st of the year & it got me thinking of repro bulbs & if they are included. I know that certain incandesents are stil legal to make & buy such as those that are used in appliances, roug service, marine & auto.

Thanx!!!
Charlie

It is my understanding that the retro bulbs are exempt, because of there low wattage.

 

[hatguy1]

So just use a 40 watt or lower?

You may wish to be careful with this idea. Going with a lower wattage bulb in a socket meant for a higher wattage one will make it burn out quicker but could also be a fire hazard (or so I've always been told).

 

[vitanola]

You may wish to be careful with this idea. Going with a lower wattage bulb in a socket meant for a higher wattage one will make it burn out quicker but could also be a fire hazard (or so I've always been told).

By whom?

A lower wattage lamp produces less heat, and consumes less current.

The standard Edison light sockets with brass housings of a century were rated at 250 watts if they incorparated a switch, and 66o watts if they were keyless. Porcelain sockets were rated at 660 watts generally Today, switched Edison sockets are rated for 300 watts, and keyless (unswitched) sockets are rated for 660 watts. This is generally true of all sockets used in all fixtures.

 

[Doctor Strange]

consider the photographic materials too

Nobody seems to have considered that photos of old-time interiors were also made on different film emulsions than those of today. (And by today I mean recently, since so few photos are made on film nowadays.) The color reproduction of different classic film emulsions - Kodacolor, Anscocolor, Kodachrome, Ektachrome, older Fuji films, etc. - is also a factor in how warm (i.e., yellow/red) or cool (i.e., white/blue) the lights and lighting appear.

Slide emulsions (the "chrome"s) were generally considered more accurate than print emulsions (the "color"s) because they didn't have the additional variable of how they were printed affecting their color reproduction. But even within slide films, there was a great deal of variation in how the colors were reproduced, both in terms of warm/cool and color saturation. The trippy thirties-Technicolor brilliance of Kodachrome was quite different from the "more realistic" color saturation of Ektachrome...

Sure, different kinds of bulbs in different times burn at different color temperatures... but the methods of how the old color images that you're using for reference were recorded and reproduced also has a lot to do with the impression these images make.

 

[hatguy1]

By whom?

A lower wattage lamp produces less heat, and consumes less current.

The standard Edison light sockets with brass housings of a century were rated at 250 watts if they incorparated a switch, and 66o watts if they were keyless. Porcelain sockets were rated at 660 watts generally Today, switched Edison sockets are rated for 300 watts, and keyless (unswitched) sockets are rated for 660 watts. This is generally true of all sockets used in all fixtures.

Ok.... But isn't the life of the bulb and its tolerance for current thru the filament based on the current put thru it? Hence using a 40W bulb in a 100W socket not last nearly as long?

 

[vitanola]

Ok.... But isn't the life of the bulb and its tolerance for current thru the filament based on the current put thru it? Hence using a 40W bulb in a 100W socket not last nearly as long?

The socket has absolutely noting to do with the matter. A 40 watt light bulb will consume 40 watts of power when operated at its rated voltage.

A watt of electric power is the equivalent of the work which is done when one ampere of current flows through an electrical potential difference of one volt. For example, a light bulb through which one ampere of current flowed when the potential across its terminal was 125 volts would consume 125 watts of energy. Were a 40 watt lamp screwed into the same socket the current through it would be but 0.32 amperes, regardless of the rating of the socket.

The current which will flow in a given circuit is determined by the voltage across it and the total resistance of the circuit, which may be expressed by the simple equation: E=IR ("E", which stands for EMF", "Electro-Motive Force" or "Voltage", is equal to the product of the current, "I" multiplied by the resistance "R" of a given circuit). This may also written to determine current; "I = E/R" or resistance; "R = E/I".

The wattage of a light bulb at a given voltage is ultimately determined by its internal resistance, not by external circuit considerations.

 

[HudsonHawk]

The socket has absolutely noting to do with the matter. A 40 watt light bulb will consume 40 watts of power when operated at its rated voltage.

A watt of electric power is the equivalent of the work which is done when one ampere of current flows through an electrical potential difference of one volt. For example, a light bulb through which one ampere of current flowed when the potential across its terminal was 125 volts would consume 125 watts of energy. Were a 40 watt lamp screwed into the same socket the current through it would be but 0.32 amperes, regardless of the rating of the socket.

The current which will flow in a given circuit is determined by the voltage across it and the total resistance of the circuit, which may be expressed by the simple equation: E=IR ("E", which stands for EMF", "Electro-Motive Force" or "Voltage", is equal to the product of the current, "I" multiplied by the resistance "R" of a given circuit). This may also written to determine current; "I = E/R" or resistance; "R = E/I".

The wattage of a light bulb at a given voltage is ultimately determined by its internal resistance, not by external circuit considerations.

In short...a 40W bulb will draw 40 watts of power, a 100W bulb will draw 100 watts. It has nothing to do with the socket. A 40W bulb uses less current than a 100W bulb across the same voltage.

I think Hatguy has it a little backwards. You should not use a 100W bulb in a fixture rated for 40W.

 

[rjb1]

Be cautious about trusting what is shown in a book or magazine regarding color of lighting or anything else.
To expand on the film issues mentioned above, I'm looking at a Kodak Master Photoguide from the early fifties. They list three categories of film based on color sensitivity (Daylight, clear photoflood, and 3200K photo lamps) and then present a table of filters usable to get an approximation of the true colors of the subject.
With fourteen possible categories of lighting listed, that gives 3 x 14 = 42 combinations of film, lighting, and filtration for any scene. The chance that any photo would be perfect for any given scene is remote.
Then, after you have taken the photo as best you can, it has to be printed, which means that the colors that you see in a book or magazine are what an art director and/or printer thinks look good using ink or pigments.
Use of photos for general impressions is likely valid, but there is a limit to how much you can trust it.

 

[hatguy1]

I think Hatguy has it a little backwards. You should not use a 100W bulb in a fixture rated for 40W.

You're right. I did. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[hatguy1]

In short...a 40W bulb will draw 40 watts of power, a 100W bulb will draw 100 watts. It has nothing to do with the socket. A 40W bulb uses less current than a 100W bulb across the same voltage. I think Hatguy has it a little backwards. You should not use a 100W bulb in a fixture rated for 40W.

Went to change the bulb in an outdoor fixture today and saw this warning. Reminded me again that I did have it a little backwards.