Getting my wardrobe off the ground

[strider_ani]

Hey all, thought I might ask you all for some advice. Currently, I've been trying to get my wardrobe off the ground and into something resembling the style you guys seem to know so well, though it hasn't been going well.
The current state of my wardrobe is a pretty sorry sight. It's got a few set pieces, like a Black Pinstripe Zoot suit and a navy blue London Fog trench. I also seem to have all the accessories - Raybans Wayfarers, 2 Feds (1 Gray, 1 Brown), A multitude ties and a pair of suspenders. (The only thing I'm missing is the shoes )
The problem I seem to be having though is that I have almost no shirts or pants. I have a couple of plain white shirts that aren't tailored at all (My figure is very small and most shirts look big on me), as well as some modern day looking ones (With designs and so forth).
In the pants department all I have is a couple of basic navy blue/black double pleated pants I got from Target.
The only suit I have is a navy blue one I only use for formal occasions (Never basically). It's one I bought of the rack of a modern day suit retailer so it's not tailored at all and I might have grown out of it?? since the last time I wore it.
Anyways, that's the state of my wardrobe and I guess that I'm having trouble not just with finding appropriate shirts and pants, but also finding a style I feel comfortable with wearing day to day. (I currently wear modern T shirts and Jeans usually.)
I'd like some advice on other types of styles I could try that aren't strictly suits. There has to be a more casual form of attire available for men. I don't have many style vests either.
I guess I just have trouble putting things together and making them work.
I sometimes feel like I can do a lot if I had a few more colours to choose from. Currently all I have is navy blue everything besides the shirts.
I live in Australia and so It is harder for me to find period stuff, and the reproduction stuff is usually prohibitively expensive. I trawl ebay quite a lot but I have no idea what to look for and so I become a bit scared to take the plunge on clothes I'm not sure will even fit me.
So that's my story at the moment, I'd be grateful for any suggestions and links if you have them. I'll post more of my thoughts as the come to me.
Cheers, Strider.

 

[LoveMyHats2]

Hello, how are you over "down under"?

You know most of us are always looking for what will work for us, what looks like the vintage look and to get a deal if possible. You may have already found out, it is not always easy to find something your size or even that would "fit" a particular budget you may have to be "suited up". However, if you do continue to seek out clothing you will eventually find what you are looking for.

Now there are a few people that can direct you to sources in your area (members that are living in your part of this world), I am sure when they come across your post here, they will chime in to render you some aide.

What size shirt do you wear? How tall are you, how much do you weigh? I ask as I do have some vintage shops near me, I am always interested in finding things and I would be pleased if I was able to pick you up something you would desire, I would be most happy to do so for you. Please do PM me when you can. Thanks!

 

[Shangas]

Hi Strider.

I suggest hitting places like thriftshops, op-shops, charity-shops, etc. Vinnie's, Sacred Heart, Aust. Red Cross, Salvos, etc.

Or you can try Out of the Closet. It's opposite Flinders Street Station in the city. You'll see this big sign and a long staircase going down. Menswear section is on the left as you go in, but there's clothes and such, all over the place.

There's also ANTON'S at Melbourne Central, but the stuff there is dizzyingly expensive. I find it tends to be a case of "Drool, Don't Touch". With cravats starting at $85, you can imagine how expensive it is (I've never paid more than $5 for a cravat!, and $4 for a tie in my life!).

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Try off-white linen trousers for the summer and light grey wool flannell trousers for the other seasons. For a 30s-50s look they need to be rather high waisted and wide in the legs.
Both can be combined with the navy blue suit jacket if you want. The also look more causual/relaxed but still have style.

I can't tell you you where to get them exactly but don't be afraid of local thrift stores and such. That's where I get my stuff cheap too. If you want soemthing special or original vintage you might try ebay. But this only makes sense if you already know your measurements.

 

[Shangas]

By the 20s and 30s, the "shirt-as-underwear" mentality was slowly going away, so don't be afraid to show off a little sleeve.

 

[MikeBravo]

Ah, young Strider

I think we met a few years ago at a swing dancing gig in the city through the old Swingtalk board. You were about to move to Geelong I recall.

I have sent Shangas, who posted above, a spreadsheet of Victorian op shops and retro shops. I'll be happy to email you a copy (or Shangas may still have an older copy) when I return to Melbourne next week, just PM me.

Op shops and the like are probably the best resource for finding vintage but mainly "vintage-like" clothes. Finding actual 30's and 40's is nigh impossible in Oz, however one can obtain a lot of mix and match trousers, shirts, vests etc.

As our learned German friend posted above, you will need to know your measurements as this will save a lot of time. I am always finding good stuff that is way too small for me. Just don't be too fussed about the clothes being tailored, you could miss a lot of good stuff if you are too fussy. Beside, you could always find a tailor to make adjustments if you wish.

Anyway good luck and just be patient

Mike

 

[Shangas]

I've switched computers since you sent out that list, Mike. I don't think I still have it, would appreciate it if you could re-send it.

The most important thing about buying clothes of course, apart from how they look, is how they fit. You need to know your measurements, as Mike said.

To do that, you need a measuring-tape. You can buy these cheap at supermarkets and suchlike. Or you can go to the Camberwell Sewing Center (Burke Road, Camberwell). They ought to have them in stock. Typically, they're five feet long, sufficient for most measurements, unless you're absolutely insanely tall.

You need measurements such as inside leg, outside leg, waist, shoulder-to-shoulder, arm, chest, etc, etc...

 

[LoveMyHats2]

Wow I just sort of knew it, the fellows from your area stepped right up to offer up some help. To me that is what makes the Lounge so great!

 

[Shangas]

Yes, we're a helpful bunch, aren't we, Michael?

 

[strider_ani]

Thanks, LovemyHats. I'd be delighted to PM you some measurements. I'd be ever so grateful if you went out of your way to procure some clothes for me .
I spent today visiting a few op shops in my area. They seem to have a lot of standard stuff and a lot of it is not my size. I did however find an awesome pair of shoes that I will post a picture of soon for 25$. Didn't find many shirts I liked that fit. There was a Hawaiian shirt I loved but it was too big. I also got a couple of ties and a belt my size. Total cost for everything was 34$!

All the places I went to I asked specifically if they had any gaberdine pants, they seem to be hard to find. Also, I imagine if I did find any, they wouldn't be my size. (I think I will need to go onto the internet)

Thanks for the suggestion Out of the Closet Shangas, not sure what price ranges they sell for but I do hope they aren't to high. I will definitely check them out the next time I'm in Melbourne. Ah Antons. I used to go here to drool at the beautiful reproduction stuff on my breaks when I studied VCE in Melbourne. Great window shopping but prohibitively expensive.
Also, what do you mean by "Show a little sleeve"? Winter is almost upon us now and I don't tolorate the cold very well. I always prefer a warm climate to the cold. I had a peek at your blog. Fascinating stuff. I noticed that someone in our family had a pair of Sleeve Garters at some stage and they've been floating around the house for ages. (Though no one knew what they were till now.) I might grab some on ebay as they seem like the perfect solution for someone my size.

I've always wanted to try a pair of beige or white trousers with an appropriately matched suit . The way those colours blend make you look casual and sophisticated at the same time I think. About the Wool Flannel trousers, Flat Foot Floey, the thing I have trouble with is distinguishing fabric types when I'm in a store. There is usually a great variety and no standard at all to the labels, which normally say either cotton or polyester. The thing is that it's really hard to describe them over the internet and every shop assistant has a different opinion as well which complicates things more. I guess experience will be the only cure for this problem.

Ah, MikeBravo! It's been a while. Yes I did move to Geelong and it's been three years already. Actually, I haven't been going dancing as often as I would like and since the swing patrol classes in Geelong stopped due to lack of interest I haven't been going since. It's also what's sparked me to try get back into it and to try and see if I can build a wardrobe at the same time . I was on the lookout for "vintage like" clothes but when you don't have much of an idea of what to look for, a lot goes by unnoticed. Everything seemed much the same to me and there are a lot of things to focus on: size, fabric, colour, pattern, brand, etc that it can get a bit overwhelming at times and I tend to play it safe most of the time. What do you do if you find things that are too big? Get them anyway and possibly have them altered later? Or find a way to make them work the way they are?
I'll send you a PM of my email and I look forward to getting that list

Thanks for the help guys. I'll definitely be able to get my wardrobe up to scratch or at least have a fair whack at it with your help.
Cheers, Strider.

Edit: here is a pic of the shoes. They're Italian!

 

[Two Types]

Good luck with finding the correct outfits etc.

My advice would be this:

Think carefully about the image/period that you are trying to project. Do you want to look like a mid 20th century Australian, or an American of the same period? (or even a Frenchman etc, come to that)

Look through books of photographs and familiarise yourself with the period. If you are thinking Melbourne late forties early fifties - look at local history section in your local library. Go through the photo albums of your parents/grandparents etc. Old family photos are great for genuine inspiration.

But also question yourself: Does a particular style work for your body type?
If a wider trouser dwarfs your feet, consider narrower trousers (personally I like wide trousers because I have always been self conscious about my feet). Compare various hat brim widths - which one suits your face. Don't just go for a fedora because of the obvious period connections. It may be that a narrower brim is much more flattering to your facial features.

I note that you mention casual trousers worn with contrasting jacket as a look you like. You are in Australia - ask everyone you know if they or any family members used to play cricket and have some old cricket whites hanging around the house. Not the modern abominations, but the classic white/cream flannels. They are the perfect for wearing with a contrasting jacket.

And don't ignore the missmatched suit jacket with non-suit trousers. I don't know about Australia, but in the UK that was a very common look in the mid-20th century. Get the colours and fabrics right and it can look very good.

Look forward to seeing some photos once you have started to build the wardrobe.

Final piece of advice - keep a regular watch on the 'classifieds' and 'vintage finds and deals' section. Something will turn up. Post your chest and waist size in this thread - you might be lucky and find someone has got the perfect jacket/suit/trousers just waiting to sell to you. Remember, there are plenty of people reading posts even if they don't reply.

Best of luck.

 

[Shangas]

Hi Strider,

Thanks!

I have articles on my blog about ties, suits, vintage clothing, hats, shirts, etc. Feel free to look around and post a comment.

What I meant by the sleeves thing is that you don't always have to wear a coat to cover everything up. Of course, what you do is up to you, but it's important to mix things around a bit and have fun.

If you're susceptable to cold weather, I would strongly suggest buying a waistcoat or two (see Out of the Closet. Down the stairs to the left). It's a stylish way to keep warm and the pockets are always a bonus.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

About the Wool Flannel trousers, Flat Foot Floey, the thing I have trouble with is distinguishing fabric types when I'm in a store. There is usually a great variety and no standard at all to the labels, which normally say either cotton or polyester. The thing is that it's really hard to describe them over the internet and every shop assistant has a different opinion as well which complicates things more. I guess experience will be the only cure for this problem.

Yes. I know what you mean. Learning out of a book or the internet is not quite the same as seeing (and feeling) the clothes or fabrics in real life. Once you know "flannel" you would recognize it everywhere. It's a rather soft weave and less shiny than modern suit fabrics. Maybe that's why it is so good for combining with odd jackets and blazers.
It's not a fabric but a weave so it won't be on the labels. Maybe the use the word "flannel" in the catalogue

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flannel
Try to search pictures for "wool flannel" on google and maybe you will get the idea.

Did you get your measurements yet? It would be practical to have body measurements and to measure good fitting clothes as well)
For jackets and blazers: Chest (measure from armpit to armpit), sleeves (measure from the highest point of the seam of a good fitting jacket to the cuff) and shoulders. The overall lenght of the jacket can vary depending on the style. Maybe you would fiond out what you like for yourself. I have very short 1930s jackets and also rather long 40s jackets. I like em both. Decide for your self.

For trousers: waist and inseam. the overall lenght of the trousers depends also on the rise...so always ask for the inseam.

 

[MikeBravo]

Edit: here is a pic of the shoes. They're Italian!

Ah yes. Wingtip brogues, excellent start. Just need a polish

Oh, and have a look at your local library for books. Search on a few keys words under "subject". Start with 'men's clothing', 'style' and fashion', those should lead toa few other keywords or classifications. In fact, I found one titled "Fashionisto : a century of style icons" at the Waurn Ponds library by searching under 'men's clothing'.

A couple of months ago I was in Geelong and was pretty disappointed in the op shops there, I visited a dozen and bought nothing. A trip into "Retro Sta"r and OTC in Melbourne might be worth a train ride into town.

Spreadsheet coming Tuesday

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

try to get these dead stock rayon ties

;-)

 

[LoveMyHats2]

I will be out hounding around for you tomorrow. In more ways than one, I actually find it a fun ordeal to see what I may find in your sizes as such, normally what I do see in the past, has almost always been too darn small for me and I had to pass up some rather nice deals due to a size issue! lol! So I hope I can be of a good service to you and appreciate the opportunity to say the least! As some famous fictional detective once said, "the game is afoot"!

 

[John in Covina]

There was a thread on how to get the best measurements of vintage clothes. Measuring specific points of the construction of the suit jacket and pants will allow you to go places like ebay to ask and compare your personal measurements to the sellers items to know if something will fit well.

 

[strider_ani]

Thanks for the Info Two Types, you've given me a lot to think about.
The style I'm going for is definitely American. I feel like the style in 1940's Australia was still significantly colonial and altogether different. Also, Australia had very different influences to America; Music + Culture wise in particular which was the reason the styles are very different. I prefer the American style definitely.

The photo's I have of my Family are both from an Italian background and so the style is completely different again. I will have another look but my family didn't exactly wear many suits...
This also comes onto the cricket idea. I'll definitely be checking around and asking if anyone has any but I don't think I'll have any help from my Family. I'm in Australia though so there will be something somewhere.

My basic measurements are
Height 68.5 inches

Full Chest Measurement 31.5 inches
Front Chest Width Measurement 16.5 inches
Back Width Measurement 14.5 inches
Shoulder Width Measurement 16.5 inches
Sleeve Measurement 24.5 inches

Trouser Waist Measurement 29 inches
Trouser Inseam Measurement 26.5 inches

I measured these yesterday, though I didn't think of measuring something that already fit me. I'll be sure to do that soon and compare the results.

Shangas, that idea seems capital. A lovely pocket watch would add a formal touch too if I needed it, but the waistcoat seems like an excellent idea.

I had a look at a few men's style websites and although there is a bit of discrepancy there are a few ideas that are generally accepted as the standard - such as not wearing thin vertical stripes if you're thin.

I had also had a look at those ties Flat Foot, I might get them but I'll hold out a bit because I have a lot of ties at the moment... Although one can never have too many .

Thanks John, I must admit, that idea did not occur to me although I don't have anything vintage that I can measure yet. I can still do so with the modern stuff. My Auntie used to be a tailor so I'll ask her if she knows if there are any differences measurement wise once I have a vintage suit.

Cheers, Strider.

 

[Two Types]

Blimey - you do have a small chest measurement.

On the subject of old cricket whites: even if they aren't something you would wear, if you find any buy them. There are plenty of members of the forum who are keen on white/cream flannels.

 

[Shangas]

You're welcome, Strider. Most people overlook the waistcoat, but it's a great way to add extra warmth.

Crimony! You're even smaller than I am! I'm 5'6" and my measurements about an inch bigger than yours. Back is 15 inches, waist - 32. Inside leg 28/29...Us small chaps gotta stick together!