Getting hats to shine

[Redfokker]

Looking at their gallery I would say it is sprayed. This one is most likely wax...

View attachment 126801

we need a 'barf' emoji

 

[mayserwegener]

Not even in the same universe, this is an example of WHAT to do.

Mike, Yes I was just having some fun.

Here is some info regarding Real Velour from Ebsreichdorfer Felt Hat Factory / S.J. Fraenkel Wien.

The brushing liquid was primarily acidified water, sometimes with the addition of a surfactant.

(This is part of the fulling process Hot Wet Brushing and eventually gives the Velour high luster / shine.)

The surfactants are essentially wetting agents and detergents based on fatty alcohol sulfates.

Only slightly acidic water was used in the tour (spun). (This is final step after cutting / shearing.)

Depending on the hair product and preparation. In principle, keratin fibers, including hair, are processed in the acidic range, ie with an acidic solution, at a pH value between 0 and 6. ( pH value of 0 -7 acid, 7 -12 alkaline, where 7 is neutral.)

In principle, any acid can be used. Sulfuric acid and Hydrochloric acid are predominantly used, with the finished aqueous solution usually having a pH of 4.8. There is no universal rule, here experience plays an important role.

For Smooth Finish from Ebsreichdorfer Felt Hat Factory / S.J. Fraenkel Wien.

Greasing or Smearing

Rubbing (Pouncing) negatively affects the color look of the hats, they become dull. Greasing binds the friction dust remaining in the felt and smooths the surface. The color gets luminosity and a rich look. For bright colors can be dispensed with the fats, sometimes this is even beneficial. For dark colors or blacks, greasing is essential. Suitable fatliquors are a number of natural and synthetic oils. Poplar oil and the thick green laurel oil that was banned in many countries because of possible allergic skin reactions was widespread. Both oils are dilutable by adding trichlorethylene or Vaseline oil. Rapeseed oil, spindle oils, Vaseline and specially prepared products such as Lorbol are currently used. To grease the hat, rub some fatliquors on the lubricating bales (Schmierballen), hold it on a hot plate until it heats up a bit and spreads the grease. Now the entire hat is worked after the stroke and wiped with the burning cloth (Brenntuch), a soft cloth heated on a plate.

 

[Redfokker]

Mike, Yes I was just having some fun.

Here is some info regarding Real Velour from Ebsreichdorfer Felt Hat Factory / S.J. Fraenkel Wien.

The brushing liquid was primarily acidified water, sometimes with the addition of a surfactant.

(This is part of the fulling process Hot Wet Brushing and eventually gives the Velour high luster / shine.)

The surfactants are essentially wetting agents and detergents based on fatty alcohol sulfates.

Only slightly acidic water was used in the tour (spun). (This is final step after cutting / shearing.)

Depending on the hair product and preparation. In principle, keratin fibers, including hair, are processed in the acidic range, ie with an acidic solution, at a pH value between 0 and 6. ( pH value of 0 -7 acid, 7 -12 alkaline, where 7 is neutral.)

In principle, any acid can be used. Sulfuric acid and Hydrochloric acid are predominantly used, with the finished aqueous solution usually having a pH of 4.8. There is no universal rule, here experience plays an important role.

For Smooth Finish from Ebsreichdorfer Felt Hat Factory / S.J. Fraenkel Wien.

Greasing or Smearing

Rubbing (Pouncing) negatively affects the color look of the hats, they become dull. Greasing binds the friction dust remaining in the felt and smooths the surface. The color gets luminosity and a rich look. For bright colors can be dispensed with the fats, sometimes this is even beneficial. For dark colors or blacks, greasing is essential. Suitable fatliquors are a number of natural and synthetic oils. Poplar oil and the thick green laurel oil that was banned in many countries because of possible allergic skin reactions was widespread. Both oils are dilutable by adding trichlorethylene or Vaseline oil. Rapeseed oil, spindle oils, Vaseline and specially prepared products such as Lorbol are currently used. To grease the hat, rub some grease on the greaseballs, hold it on a hot plate until it heats up a bit and spreads the grease. Now the entire hat is worked after the stroke and wiped with the burning cloth, a soft cloth heated on a plate.

This place is for learning about our hats. Thank you for this Steve, it is really cool.

 

[mayserwegener]

Mike, Thanks! Here is some more on Smooth finish hats from Ebsreichdorfer Felt Hat Factory / S.J. Fraenkel Wien.

Smooth hats have a long tradition. They are mainly produced from tame or wild rabbit or from mixtures of both types of hair. Hats made of pure beaver hair are rarely found, and a portion/percentage of beaver hair are added to high-quality felts. Originally, the molded and dry hat was smoothed by hand with pumice stone, later with sandpaper. Then, by passing over with a piece of fish skin, fine, short hair was brought out to improve gloss and feel. In industrial production, the pre-smoothed (dressed) hats are dressed on automatic crown and edge pouncing machines by rubbing and greasing. The American trimming additionally uses color powder to improve the hand and look. The powder conceals small defects and gives the hat surface a closed appearance and a pleasant hand. The pigment mixture, which is adapted to the color of the hat, is applied at the end of the friction work and fixed to the surface by gentle greasing and dry-leveled.

 

[evderev]

Mike, Thanks! Here is some more on Smooth finish hats from Ebsreichdorfer Felt Hat Factory / S.J. Fraenkel Wien.

Smooth hats have a long tradition. They are mainly produced from tame or wild rabbit or from mixtures of both types of hair. Hats made of pure beaver hair are rarely found, and a portion/percentage of beaver hair are added to high-quality felts. Originally, the molded and dry hat was smoothed by hand with pumice stone, later with sandpaper. Then, by passing over with a piece of fish skin, fine, short hair was brought out to improve gloss and feel. In industrial production, the pre-smoothed (dressed) hats are dressed on automatic crown and edge pouncing machines by rubbing and greasing. The American trimming additionally uses color powder to improve the hand and look. The powder conceals small defects and gives the hat surface a closed appearance and a pleasant hand. The pigment mixture, which is adapted to the color of the hat, is applied at the end of the friction work and fixed to the surface by gentle greasing and dry-leveled.

I see the term "mercurized" describing the hats, but Google only comes up with "mercerized" like w cotton. Any idea what mercurized is? Maybe in the old days, mercury was used to create the effect?

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I see the term "mercurized" describing the hats, but Google only comes up with "mercerized" like w cotton. Any idea what mercurized is? Maybe in the old days, mercury was used to create the effect?

In the “old days” they did not make hats such as you are looking to make. I’m fine with you doing whatever you want with your own hats, but the look of those hats is 21st century and completely artificial. It’s “a look” and maybe you can recreate it, but the exemplar hats you posted do not look vintage or naturally distressed from real use. The oily sheen looks very artificial too. Just my views.



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[jlee562]

I see the term "mercurized" describing the hats, but Google only comes up with "mercerized" like w cotton. Any idea what mercurized is? Maybe in the old days, mercury was used to create the effect?

Mercury was used to remove fur fibers from the pelt. The process is called carroting, or pickling.

DH's point is well taken though. If you want that look, that knowledge probably resides elsewhere than the lounge. If I were gonna stab in the dark, I'd second the suggestion of natural mink oil.

you might also look into a silk finish hat:
https://www.jjhatcenter.com/products/the-concourse-by-stetson

 

[evderev]

Mercury was used to remove fur fibers from the pelt. The process is called carroting, or pickling.

DH's point is well taken though. If you want that look, that knowledge probably resides elsewhere than the lounge. If I were gonna stab in the dark, I'd second the suggestion of natural mink oil.

you might also look into a silk finish hat:
https://www.jjhatcenter.com/products/the-concourse-by-stetson

Thank you. I’ll try elsewhere. Obviously a few feathers are getting ruffled here from a simple process question.

 

[jlee562]

Thank you. I’ll try elsewhere. Obviously a few feathers are getting ruffled here from a simple process question.

I don't think any real offense is intended. It's just that most here are vintage focused, and anything we could tell you about old hats is almost assuredly not what Mr. Foxx is doing.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Thank you. I’ll try elsewhere. Obviously a few feathers are getting ruffled here from a simple process question.

Speaking only for myself, no ruffled feathers, but I took the question as how the vintage hats achieved the look when vintage hats did not have such a look. The silky finish found on vintage velour hats is nothing like the finishes on the hats in the photo you provided. For some of us, you’re asking how best to vandalize a hat, and while I respect your right to do as you please with your own property, I have a hard time not blanching at the thought. It’s also an artificial and contrived look that goes against the reverence some of us have for the Golden Era and fine hats in general.


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[deadlyhandsome]

Ah, the Makers Mark treatment.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

Bustin’ a gut from the Makers Mark treatment. That’s exactly what it looks like.


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[Frank Boskovich]

Here a little something I’ve been working on to achieve this aged shiny look. What do you guys think?

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Here a little something I’ve been working on to achieve this aged shiny look. What do you guys think?

That’s not a style that we see here often. I don’t know how much of a response you’re going to get. If you like the hat and the details that’s what matters.

This obviously artificially distressed look Isn’t my cup of tea, but I know that it’s having a moment lately. The homeless chic look just comes across heavy-handed and artificial, but some folks think that any brimmed hat is too much of a costume item. Got to love diversity.