Get Smart: Unseen jacket collar and questions on outfits (collars etc)

[PhantomKnight]

How do you get a jacket collar to sit so low and a shirt collar to sit so high? I know the collar is really thick but i think the jackets seem to be cut in some way to sit really low on the shoulders not even touching the neck really.

I've never seen this type of collar on a jacket before. What is it?

 

[Benzadmiral]

Don Adams, I understand, was quite the snappy dresser, wearing 3-pc. suits at a time when they weren't very fashionable. The second outfit looks like somebody's idea of what "Carnaby Street" or "Mod" was supposed to be ca. 1967?