German & Austrian Hutmachers

[mayserwegener]

Robert, That is such a great document! Thank you so much for finding it and making the scans! Next step is to find some of these hats! By the way this is prior to the Novy Jicin factory.

 

[rlk]

Hmm, the Trilby...

This catalog is less than 5 years after the first English production of Trilby.

 

[mayserwegener]

This is an e-mail I received a while back from Andreas Bahner of Hatmachines, Weikersheim. Turns out they were also from Novy Jicin.

"Dear Steve,

you sent a foto of the velour hat made by Hückel in Novy Jicin.

This quality can be made with the machines we quoted you on March 30, 2011:
1. Type 6-314 Velour Finishing Machine

2. Type 2-404 Cylinder Shearing Machine.

You should know that my grandfather Friedrich Bahner founded a hat machine production

in Novy Jicin 1924. 1949 he and my father came to Weikersheim and continued the production.

We know quite profoundly the Hückel resp. Tonak hat factory and visit them every year.

Best regards

Andreas"

http://www.hatmachines.com/default.asp?lg=gb

 

[mayserwegener]

Mayser, black, size 59cm. German city style from1970s or later.

 

[Dreispitz]

I remember seeing few, if any, Cavanagh Edges on European hats other than Borsalino. I can't remember seeing any English hats with them, either. In your collection and research, how many have you run across? It seems to be mostly an American edge treatment. I suppose Borsalino got into them specifically for their American market.

Brad

I never came across a Cavanagh edge on European hats. Is it possible that Borsalino sourced Cavanagh edge bodies from US manufacturers? Were these hats made by US companies for the domestic US market, only?

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

The letter pins in the German hats is there a source for them? Would like to get some for my hats.
Need a E and a W.

 

[mayserwegener]

I don't believe there is a current day source but I will check.

 

[Brad Bowers]

I never came across a Cavanagh edge on European hats. Is it possible that Borsalino sourced Cavanagh edge bodies from US manufacturers? Were these hats made by US companies for the domestic US market, only?

I haven't seen anything to suggest that Borsalino received bodies from the US so I figure Borsalino made them in their own factory, but mostly for exports to the US. I don't know why the style never caught on in Europe. As for American sales in Europe, I know the Dobbs brand was exported overseas in the '30s, but it looks like by the '50s they licensed the brand to foreign manufacturers. I know we've seen Dobbs hats from Canada and West Germany, but I can't remember if the latter had a Cavanagh Edge.

Brad

 

[mayserwegener]

Mayser

Echter Mayser, gray, size 59cm. Probably mid to late 1960s. An over welt stingy brim with a very unique ribbon and soft felt finish.

 

[mayserwegener]

Rockel Wildleder

Rockel Wildleder, dark loden green with gold binding, size 59cm. Date stamped 1962 and in fine condition. Unique ribbon and bow work with a very nice felt finish.

 

[hatophile]

I really like that Wildleder. The color and ribbon combo are unique. Looks like very plush fur.
The Echter is sharp, too. Nice ones, Steve.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! It's kinda Velour like but with some stiffness. Definitely different but I like it.

 

[Joshbru3]

Rockel Wildleder, dark loden green with gold binding, size 59cm. Date stamped 1962 and in fine condition. Unique ribbon and bow work with a very nice felt finish.

BEAUTIFUL!! That color is outstanding. The felt is incredibly soft looking and the ribbon work is excellent. It seems that the color combo of green and gold was very popular in german/austrian hats. Obviously many alpine/tyroleans were grean for Oktoberfest and such, but a hat like this Rockel Wildleder seems like a "regular" style dress hat. Great find!!:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap

 

[mayserwegener]

Josh, Thanks! Yes you are correct about the colors. Ausseerhut meets Stetson Strat? The felt finish is soft but there is a good bit of stiffener because of the factory blocking. Germany like the US moved to factory blocked hats starting the late 1950s early 1960s.

 

[RobStC]

Rockel Wildleder, dark loden green with gold binding, size 59cm. Date stamped 1962 and in fine condition. Unique ribbon and bow work with a very nice felt finish.

Just lovely..... A very sharp looking hat indeed. :eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap

 

[Dreispitz]

Wildleder translates suede, by the way.

 

[mayserwegener]

Dieter, Thank you for the translation! I have another Rockel that has Echter Wildleder on the sweatband and Velourette on liner.

 

[mayserwegener]

German / Austrian Black Velour, size 54cm. This one is Austrian Velour like but I can't make out the German (turns out to be Erko which is Czech / Slovak) word (E????) before Velour on the liner. Maybe someone can? Unfortunately the paper label was removed probably during cleanings. I am not sure if the name on the sweatband is the shop, owner or maker from Tegernsee. The Velour on this hat is really beautiful and in perfect condition. The overall condition of the hat is very good including the non reeded sweatband. It's definitely pre 1940 and it could easily go back to the 20s. This one has the unique JHS Velour smell when steamed. I really like this one to say the least.

 

[Dinerman]

Looks like it says "Erko Velour"

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! I can see the "E" and "KO" but not sure about the rest.