German & Austrian Hutmachers

[steur]

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Plume", 58 cm, F.P. 5 1/2, 128 grams possibly early 1930s maybe late 1920s. The Stiff Felt came with an original J. Hückel´s Söhne internal wood frame Cardboard Box (see below) which is something I have been looking for many years. The Stiff Felt is in mint condition and overall is really fantastic (one of my finest). The black Felt has a great finish and is light in weight. The black Liner has a gold embossed JHS Crest that is offset by a off white textured + decorated Sweatband. The Bow design unique + striking. Also came with a JHS external Paper Size Tag (see below) which is also an item that I have been looking for a long time. The shop that sold all this was located in Užhorod, Czechoslovakia which was part of the Austrian Hungarian Empire up to 1919 and today Ukraine. This all came from a Czech source.

J. Hückel´s Söhne External Pape Size Tag. It was folded at the line and tab placed under the bottom of the Band / Ribbon.

There is only a tiny portion of the Paper Label left.

Vented Spacers were behind the rear of the Sweatband. Their installation most likely caused the missing Paper Label. Highly possible they were supplied to the shop by JHS.

J. Hückel´s Söhne Cardboard Box

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Plume" surrounded by original tissue paper.

Here are similar J. Hückel´s Söhne Carboard Boxes but from the early 1900s.

One find on top of the other. Superb!

 

[mayserwegener]

One find on top of the other. Superb!

Stefan, Thanks! I was very happy to make this find.

 

[mayserwegener]

I'm sorry, I can't find it. But I still have the picture of the liner. But not of the hat itself. Probably because I was not interestet in the hat. But that could have been the case just because of the size. I should have taken more pictures! View attachment 502708

I will see if I can find this trademark. The Sweatband is blank and nothing else to go on. This is common with low price point Soft and Stiff Felt Hats. I can provide examples.

 

[marting81]

Gubener Hüte ... end of 1980s /early 1990s

 

[steur]

Didn't need this one at all, but just for its history I bought it anyway.

P&C Habig Spezial Sport fedora in black. Definitely meant to be an outdoors kind of hat as it's not as refined as other Habig hats I've handled and the felt is fairly sturdy; this can take some rain if need be. The ribbon also points in the direction of outdoors. Size 59 (I think; can't read that part of the label anymore) with the overwelt brim at almost 6cm and the crown at 10cm at the front. This has the "ventilo" system that Habig patented, with little strips of felt in between sweatband and front of the crown. It dates from 1955.

 

[mayserwegener]

Didn't need this one at all, but just for its history I bought it anyway.

P&C Habig Spezial Sport fedora in black. Definitely meant to be an outdoors kind of hat as it's not as refined as other Habig hats I've handled and the felt is fairly sturdy; this can take some rain if need be. The ribbon also points in the direction of outdoors. Size 59 (I think; can't read that part of the label anymore) with the overwelt brim at almost 6cm and the crown at 10cm at the front. This has the "ventilo" system that Habig patented, with little strips of felt in between sweatband and front of the crown. It dates from 1955.

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Stefan, Thank you for picking it up. The Sweatband front ventilation hole design is unique / great.

 

[steur]

Stefan, Thank you for picking it up. The Sweatband front ventilation hole design is unique / great.

Thank you, Steve.

 

[marting81]

All my Wilke hats *update*

Today got the one on top
First bright one i found.

View attachment IMAGE_ec0629d7-ec1d-4499-bab8-9e7622a737d5_edit_59520547840916.jpg

 

[GrayEyes]

I'm looking to buy my first German-made hat, and I found a Mayser online that I really like, but I am having trouble with the sizing. I wear a 55.5. The seller's website says that if you are between sizes, you should size up, which makes sense. But a different hat store's website warns that Mayser hats run a full size large!

Can any of you advise? Anyone have sizing experience with new or recently made Maysers?

One final note: Most stores don't stock Mayser (or hardly any straw hats) in 55. So in most cases, 56 is my only option.

Thanks.

 

[mayserwegener]

All my Wilke hats *update*

Today got the one on top
First bright one i found.

View attachment 507663

Martin, Looks great!

 

[mayserwegener]

I'm looking to buy my first German-made hat, and I found a Mayser online that I really like, but I am having trouble with the sizing. I wear a 55.5. The seller's website says that if you are between sizes, you should size up, which makes sense. But a different hat store's website warns that Mayser hats run a full size large!

Can any of you advise? Anyone have sizing experience with new or recently made Maysers?

One final note: Most stores don't stock Mayser (or hardly any straw hats) in 55. So in most cases, 56 is my only option.

Thanks.

Unfortunately I don't have any experience with the latest Mayser Hats. They are made in Slovakia now but the machines came from the German factory so sizing should be similar. If you have a hat that fits, measure inside center front to back and inside center side to side. You can have the seller check the same measurements. You can also ask the seller for some cork spacers.

 

[marting81]

Wilke - Tradition
Color : Flechte (lichen)
Size: 59 :'(

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

I'm looking to buy my first German-made hat, and I found a Mayser online that I really like, but I am having trouble with the sizing. I wear a 55.5. The seller's website says that if you are between sizes, you should size up, which makes sense. But a different hat store's website warns that Mayser hats run a full size large!

Can any of you advise? Anyone have sizing experience with new or recently made Maysers?

One final note: Most stores don't stock Mayser (or hardly any straw hats) in 55. So in most cases, 56 is my only option.

Thanks.

Hi GreyEyes,
I've got a modern Mayser Panama:
With my 58.5 head I took a chance on this size 58 hat.
I can say it's true to size - so a bit snug on my head.
But since the sweat band is made of fabric and not leather
and the straw weave is elastic, I have no problem with it.
So I would give the size 56 a try and as Steve mentioned:
ask for cork spacers!

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Wilke - Tradition
Color : Flechte (lichen)
Size: 59 :'(

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Love the ribbon: great weave and treatment. Nice one!

 

[GrayEyes]

Hi GreyEyes,
I've got a modern Mayser Panama:
With my 58.5 head I took a chance on this size 58 hat.
I can say it's true to size - so a bit snug on my head.
But since the sweat band is made of fabric and not leather
and the straw weave is elastic, I have no problem with it.
So I would give the size 56 a try and as Steve mentioned:
ask for cork spacers!

@mayserwegener and @mean-eyed-matt,

Thanks for the replies and advice. I ordered a 56 and I asked for spacers in the package. We'll see what happens.

FYI, he's what I found on the internet about Mayser sizing:
"Wir empfehlen Ihnen, die abgelesene Zahl auf die nächstgrößere ganze Zahl aufzurunden (z. B. von 57,5 cm auf 58 cm)." From Mayser, Hutgrößenberater

But...
"Meist fällt der gemessene Umfang zwischen zwei Grössen, also z.B. 58,4 cm. In diesem Fall wählt man die nächst grössere Variante (in diesem Beispiel 59) und passt den Hut oder die Mütze mit einer Einlage exakt an den Kopfumfang an. Eine Ausnahme bilden die Hüte und Mützen der Marke MAYSER. Sie fallen immer eher gross aus. Hier wählt man bis zu 0,5 cm die kleinere Variante, also z.B. Grösse 58 bei einem Umfang von 58,5 cm." From Hut Haus, Wie sitzt ein Strohhut richtig?

and

"Mayser hats run almost a full size large. In-between sizes should order the next size down." From David Morgan

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

@mayserwegener and @mean-eyed-matt,

Thanks for the replies and advice. I ordered a 56 and I asked for spacers in the package. We'll see what happens.

FYI, he's what I found on the internet about Mayser sizing:
"Wir empfehlen Ihnen, die abgelesene Zahl auf die nächstgrößere ganze Zahl aufzurunden (z. B. von 57,5 cm auf 58 cm)." From Mayser, Hutgrößenberater

But...
"Meist fällt der gemessene Umfang zwischen zwei Grössen, also z.B. 58,4 cm. In diesem Fall wählt man die nächst grössere Variante (in diesem Beispiel 59) und passt den Hut oder die Mütze mit einer Einlage exakt an den Kopfumfang an. Eine Ausnahme bilden die Hüte und Mützen der Marke MAYSER. Sie fallen immer eher gross aus. Hier wählt man bis zu 0,5 cm die kleinere Variante, also z.B. Grösse 58 bei einem Umfang von 58,5 cm." From Hut Haus, Wie sitzt ein Strohhut richtig?

and

"Mayser hats run almost a full size large. In-between sizes should order the next size down." From David Morgan

I keep my fingers crossed for you!

 

[GrayEyes]

I keep my fingers crossed for you!

And the verdict is:
It fits!

I measured my head at 55.5, and I ordered a size 56. I would say that the hat fits like a 56, i.e., it's just a touch loose, which isn't bad on a hot summer day, so long as it's not too windy.

Adding one sizing spacer to the sweatband makes the hat fit pretty much perfectly. Adding two sizing spacers to the sweatband makes the hat too snug. I think I will go with it as it is, and if I need to add one spacer, I can.

And here it is:

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

And the verdict is:
It fits!

I measured my head at 55.5, and I ordered a size 56. I would say that the hat fits like a 56, i.e., it's just a touch loose, which isn't bad on a hot summer day, so long as it's not too windy.

Adding one sizing spacer to the sweatband makes the hat fit pretty much perfectly. Adding two sizing spacers to the sweatband makes the hat too snug. I think I will go with it as it is, and if I need to add one spacer, I can.

And here it is:
View attachment 508975

View attachment 508980 View attachment 508987

Congratulations! May you be satisfied with it many years!

 

[mayserwegener]

And the verdict is:
It fits!

I measured my head at 55.5, and I ordered a size 56. I would say that the hat fits like a 56, i.e., it's just a touch loose, which isn't bad on a hot summer day, so long as it's not too windy.

Adding one sizing spacer to the sweatband makes the hat fit pretty much perfectly. Adding two sizing spacers to the sweatband makes the hat too snug. I think I will go with it as it is, and if I need to add one spacer, I can.

And here it is:
View attachment 508975

View attachment 508980 View attachment 508987

Looks great! Good to hear it worked out.

 

[mayserwegener]

Wilke - Tradition
Color : Flechte (lichen)
Size: 59 :'(

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Martin, Sharp looking Wilke!