German & Austrian Hutmachers

[mayserwegener]

Steve thank you! They probably belonged to the same person, since they came together and sized similarly. And thanks to your site I knew what HBB meant I am yet to see a wool felt in velour finish in person though, the closest I have is the French one I posted recently.

Panos, I am not sure if I have Wool Velour. I have some pre WWII advertisements for them. I will have to post photos of some of the advertisements.

 

[mayserwegener]

Steve thank you! They probably belonged to the same person, since they came together and sized similarly. And thanks to your site I knew what HBB meant I am yet to see a wool felt in velour finish in person though, the closest I have is the French one I posted recently.

Panos, I am not sure if I have Wool Velour. I have some pre WWII advertisements for them. I will have to post photos of some of the advertisements

Glad these ones finally arrived. Fantastic hat and besides some lost stitches seems unworn!

Well, that one is to die for! Congrats!

Panos, Thanks! All together it took just over 4 months from when the package left Germany. I think the seller might have popped some of the sweatband stiches taking photos of the paper label.

 

[mayserwegener]

Collins Wien "Prima Smoking Hat", 58 cm, possibly late 1950s. The black Felt has a nice Smooth Finish and is pliable so easily dry creases. The under Brim is reinforced with binding material so a formal Camber form worn Brim Up. The overall quality is high and the condition is excellent. Definitely a unique find.

Open Crown

 

[PanosChris]

Collins Wien "Prima Smoking Hat", 58 cm, possibly late 1950s. The black Felt has a nice Smooth Finish and is pliable so easily dry creases. The under Brim is reinforced with binding material so a formal Camber form worn Brim Up. The overall quality is high and the condition is excellent. Definitely a unique find.

Open Crown

So elegant!

 

[Steve1857]

Smoking indeed, Steve. What a beauty! Congrats!

Collins Wien "Prima Smoking Hat", 58 cm, possibly late 1950s. The black Felt has a nice Smooth Finish and is pliable so easily dry creases. The under Brim is reinforced with binding material so a formal Camber form worn Brim Up. The overall quality is high and the condition is excellent. Definitely a unique find.

Open Crown

 

[mayserwegener]

So elegant!

Panos, Thanks! It's a pleasant surprise.

 

[mayserwegener]

Smoking indeed, Steve. What a beauty! Congrats!

Steve, Thank you! I will have take up smoking although the hat has no cigarette or cigar oder. The seller told me it belonged to her great grandfather who was a orchestral violinist in the Graz Philharmonic.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Collins Wien "Prima Smoking Hat", 58 cm, possibly late 1950s. The black Felt has a nice Smooth Finish and is pliable so easily dry creases. The under Brim is reinforced with binding material so a formal Camber form worn Brim Up. The overall quality is high and the condition is excellent. Definitely a unique find.

Open Crown

What a great find, Steve!
I have never seen a German/Austrian made Tuxedo hat
with grosgrain material on the underside of the brim.
This design is very rare anyway and the ones shown here
in the TFL all came from British, American or 1 French production,
if I remember correctly...
Your specimen is all the more great because it has the type name
"Smoking" to boot, i.e. the use of the term "Tuxedo hat"
in its consistent translation for the German-speaking market.
As a document of contemporary history, simply great!

 

[mayserwegener]

What a great find, Steve!
I have never seen a German/Austrian made Tuxedo hat
with grosgrain material on the underside of the brim.
This design is very rare anyway and the ones shown here
in the TFL all came from British, American or 1 French production,
if I remember correctly...
Your specimen is all the more great because it has the type name
"Smoking" to boot, i.e. the use of the term "Tuxedo hat"
in its consistent translation for the German-speaking market.
As a document of contemporary history, simply great!

Matt, Thank you! Yes it's the only "Smoking Hat" but similar to the "Tuxedo Hats".

It's similar to this one but no mention of "Tuxedo Hat". Where did this term come from?

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/pre-1952-scott-co-tuxedo-hat-7-1-8.97409/

This one has a Homburg like Curled Brim (that is not in bad condition) and has a Satin or Silk fabric under the Brim. No mention of "Tuxedo Hat". It's also from an older time period.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/alexander-oviatt.88456/

The sweatband is made of the same material and the brim is soft so might be to make it easier to roll (see box). No mention of "Tuxedo Hat".

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/willoughby-hats-of-paris.84226/#post-2556368

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Steve, thanks for the compilation: I also had these hats in mind!
But you are absolutely right: Nowhere does it say anything about
"Tuxedo Hat"! So the question of where the term comes from is justified.
I've never thought about it, I've always just taken it over.Of course,
the accoutrements make sense for the Tuxedo, especially since many
contemporary publications refer to the black homburg or up-brimmed hat
as the "correct" hat for black tie. Of course, the design makes sense
for the Tuxedo, especially since many contemporary publications refer
to the black homburg or up-brimmed hat as the " correct" hat for black tie.
But somehow I have an advertisement or something similar in my head
that talks about the "Tuxedo Hat". Maybe from Dave?

PS: One exception is apparently the last hat, as I only saw later.
On the last photo of Max is under the Willoughby logo inside the hat
on the lining recognizable "Tuxedo Hat"! And interesting too:
Look at the writing on the box of that one - there's a "Smoking" too!
/ smoking noir / ??? feutre = black Tuxedo / ??? felt

 

[mayserwegener]

Steve, thanks for the compilation: I also had these hats in mind!
But you are absolutely right: Nowhere does it say anything about
"Tuxedo Hat"! So the question of where the term comes from is justified.
I've never thought about it, I've always just taken it over.Of course,
the accoutrements make sense for the Tuxedo, especially since many
contemporary publications refer to the black homburg or up-brimmed hat
as the "correct" hat for black tie. Of course, the design makes sense
for the Tuxedo, especially since many contemporary publications refer
to the black homburg or up-brimmed hat as the " correct" hat for black tie.
But somehow I have an advertisement or something similar in my head
that talks about the "Tuxedo Hat". Maybe from Dave?

PS: One exception is apparently the last hat, as I only saw later.
On the last photo of Max is under the Willoughby logo inside the hat
on the lining recognizable "Tuxedo Hat"! And interesting too:
Look at the writing on the box of that one - there's a "Smoking" too!
/ smoking noir / ??? feutre = black Tuxedo / ??? felt

Matt, I should have looked closer at the Willoughby! That solves both issues regarding Tuxedo Hat and Smoking Hat. The Willoughby can also be rolled which led me to not look at it closer. I guess it's possible Willoughby also offered a more rigid standard version. Hopefully more of these are found.

 

[mayserwegener]

Anton Pichler Graz, 58cm, possibly a rebuild or new hat from the later 1950s. There is no paper label and the Sweatband is from probably a later 1920s J. Hückel´s Söhne "Standard". The Reed covering on the Sweatband is a similar color to Felt so it's possible this was later rebuild of old J. Hückel´s Söhne "Standard" or the old J. Hückel´s Söhne "Standard" Sweatband was installed in a new hat. The Sweatband also has a Ludwig Skrivanek Graz Hat Fashion House mark. This hat belonged to the owner of the Collins Wien "Luxus Prima Smoking Hat". The Seller said her Great Grandfather, the owner, was born in the early 1900s. The greenish gray Felt is of a heaver weight but still easily dry creases. It has a really nice minimalistic Bow design. This is definitely unique / head scratching find which makes it all the better in my mind.

Open Crown

Natural Light

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Unique AND head scratching find - indeed!
This makes me think about how often actual hats
have been reworked or recomposed without us realizing it
- and how that can affect our image and dating of hats...

 

[mayserwegener]

Unique AND head scratching find - indeed!
This makes me think about how often actual hats
have been reworked or recomposed without us realizing it
- and how that can affect our image and dating of hats...

Matt, Thanks! Yes this one was either rebuilt or the JHS Sweatband was added to a new hat. The JHS sweatband was from a Hat shop in Graz so it never left that location. The seller said she didn't have any background information because it belonged to her great grandfather who passed away a while ago. I just posted photos wearing it which I added to the above post.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

"Echter Mayser" in black - size 59 (slightly smaller but fits perfectly) - possibly early/mid 50s (?)
almost unused/perfect condition - very soft and malleable felt - medium wide crown band (3 cm).
super wide (for my hats) brim binding (1,1 cm!) on top and bottom with triple stitching
open, almost straight crown at 14.5 cm; brim at a great 7.0 cm
offered as "Homburg" - for me "Camber style" - also good to wear brim down as "Fedora".

interesting "signage" and thus hat history - a lot of info is already here in the threat:
Maybe Steve can sort it out again though, in case I'm saying something wrong...
"Echter Mayser" - so Mayser Ulm - as manufacturer in the crown and on the sweat
sold at "Joh.(ann) Zehme" in Munich: famous hat shop - itself rich in tradition - closed in 2013
label inside reveals that it was / could be obtained through "Hut Seidl" - also Munich.
Anton Seidl (himself a manufacturer) was significantly involved in "Mayser" since 1914.
As early as 1912, Seidl had also bought out the hat store "Joh. Zehme" in Munich.
The last owner of "Zehme" was Michael Zechbauer, Great-grandson of Anton Seidl via his son-in-law Curt M. Zechbauer.

https://www.hutstuebele.com/Home-MAYSER-von-der-hutlosen-Gesellschaft-zur-wohl-beHueteten-Welt.html
https://www.tz.de/muenchen/stadt/zehme-fussgaengerzone-traditionshaus-schliesst-tz-2691756.html
https://www.abendzeitung-muenchen.de/muenchen/hutmacher-raus-prada-rein-art-169428

PS: This is the same model as a hat Fastuni sold some years ago:
"Echter Mayser" in olive - sold by "Joh. Zehme, Munich" too
Have a look at the label of that one: not "Hut Seidl" but "Joh. Zehme"
The model number ("Art. 56465") ist the same like mine: "56465"
Also the controlling number ("Ktr. 33427") is nearly the same: "34406"
This one was stamp dated "21. Dez. 1952" - mine probably similar

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/german-austrian-hutmachers.32103/page-261#post-2139729

Compare also Steve's "Echter Mayser - Superbe" with a Seidl-label inside...
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/german-austrian-hutmachers.32103/page-112#post-1553627

 

[PanosChris]

"Echter Mayser" in black - size 59 (slightly smaller but fits perfectly) - possibly early/mid 50s (?)
almost unused/perfect condition - very soft and malleable felt - medium wide crown band (3 cm).
super wide (for my hats) brim binding (1,1 cm!) on top and bottom with triple stitching
open, almost straight crown at 14.5 cm; brim at a great 7.0 cm
offered as "Homburg" - for me "Camber style" - also good to wear brim down as "Fedora".

interesting "signage" and thus hat history - a lot of info is already here in the threat:
Maybe Steve can sort it out again though, in case I'm saying something wrong...
"Echter Mayser" - so Mayser Ulm - as manufacturer in the crown and on the sweat
sold at "Joh.(ann) Zehme" in Munich: famous hat shop - itself rich in tradition - closed in 2013
label inside reveals that it was / could be obtained through "Hut Seidl" - also Munich.
Anton Seidl (himself a manufacturer) was significantly involved in "Mayser" since 1914.
As early as 1912, Seidl had also bought out the hat store "Joh. Zehme" in Munich.
The last owner of "Zehme" was Michael Zechbauer, Great-grandson of Anton Seidl via his son-in-law Curt M. Zechbauer.

https://www.hutstuebele.com/Home-MAYSER-von-der-hutlosen-Gesellschaft-zur-wohl-beHueteten-Welt.html
https://www.tz.de/muenchen/stadt/zehme-fussgaengerzone-traditionshaus-schliesst-tz-2691756.html
https://www.abendzeitung-muenchen.de/muenchen/hutmacher-raus-prada-rein-art-169428

PS: This is the same model as a hat Fastuni sold some years ago:
"Echter Mayser" in olive - sold by "Joh. Zehme, Munich" too
Have a look at the label of that one: not "Hut Seidl" but "Joh. Zehme"
The model number ("Art. 56465") ist the same like mine: "56465"
Also the controlling number ("Ktr. 33427") is nearly the same: "34406"
This one was stamp dated "21. Dez. 1952" - mine probably similar

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/german-austrian-hutmachers.32103/page-261#post-2139729

Compare also Steve's "Echter Mayser - Superbe" with a Seidl-label inside...
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/german-austrian-hutmachers.32103/page-112#post-1553627

This one is in a different league altogether!

 

[mayserwegener]

"Echter Mayser" in black - size 59 (slightly smaller but fits perfectly) - possibly early/mid 50s (?)
almost unused/perfect condition - very soft and malleable felt - medium wide crown band (3 cm).
super wide (for my hats) brim binding (1,1 cm!) on top and bottom with triple stitching
open, almost straight crown at 14.5 cm; brim at a great 7.0 cm
offered as "Homburg" - for me "Camber style" - also good to wear brim down as "Fedora". I believe it's from about the same time period of this one.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/3-mayser-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=345

interesting "signage" and thus hat history - a lot of info is already here in the threat:
Maybe Steve can sort it out again though, in case I'm saying something wrong...
"Echter Mayser" - so Mayser Ulm - as manufacturer in the crown and on the sweat
sold at "Joh.(ann) Zehme" in Munich: famous hat shop - itself rich in tradition - closed in 2013
label inside reveals that it was / could be obtained through "Hut Seidl" - also Munich.
Anton Seidl (himself a manufacturer) was significantly involved in "Mayser" since 1914.
As early as 1912, Seidl had also bought out the hat store "Joh. Zehme" in Munich.
The last owner of "Zehme" was Michael Zechbauer, Great-grandson of Anton Seidl via his son-in-law Curt M. Zechbauer.

https://www.hutstuebele.com/Home-MAYSER-von-der-hutlosen-Gesellschaft-zur-wohl-beHueteten-Welt.html
https://www.tz.de/muenchen/stadt/zehme-fussgaengerzone-traditionshaus-schliesst-tz-2691756.html
https://www.abendzeitung-muenchen.de/muenchen/hutmacher-raus-prada-rein-art-169428

PS: This is the same model as a hat Fastuni sold some years ago:
"Echter Mayser" in olive - sold by "Joh. Zehme, Munich" too
Have a look at the label of that one: not "Hut Seidl" but "Joh. Zehme"
The model number ("Art. 56465") ist the same like mine: "56465"
Also the controlling number ("Ktr. 33427") is nearly the same: "34406"
This one was stamp dated "21. Dez. 1952" - mine probably similar

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/german-austrian-hutmachers.32103/page-261#post-2139729

Compare also Steve's "Echter Mayser - Superbe" with a Seidl-label inside...
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/german-austrian-hutmachers.32103/page-112#post-1553627

Matt, Super find and in great condition. The quality is super high. I am not sure why Mayser used a "Hut Seidl" paper label. My guess would be because of the ownership situation you mentioned. I think it might be from the time period of this one.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/3-mayser-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=345

 

[mayserwegener]

Mayser Hats Year 125 (1925)

I translated the "Mayser Hats Year 125" booklet from 1925. You can click on the pages and images to enlarge. Also click on the embedded links to see the associated images. I still need to fix some minor translation issues.

Mayser Hats Year 125 (1925)

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/594-mayser-hats-year-125/

The translation has been very much improved by fellow Fedora Lounge poster ErWeSa (Wolfgang) who lives in Salzburg, Austria. I would like to thank Wolfgang for his fantastic translation work. I encourage everyone to take another look when you have time.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/594-mayser-hats-year-125/

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Hückel hat box - Steve has already shown several of them here.
I was wondering about the age: On the one hand Steve got 30s hats in it,
on the other there is the post to Zeitler-Karton on your homepage that says 50s...
Either way - I present it with my JHS Superior Velour

 

[mayserwegener]

Hückel hat box - Steve has already shown several of them here.
I was wondering about the age: On the one hand Steve got 30s hats in it,
on the other there is the post to Zeitler-Karton on your homepage that says 50s...
Either way - I present it with my JHS Superior Velour

Matt, I thought at first the cartons were older but after contacting the company I found out that they were from the 1950s. The JHS Hats were probably placed in the cartons in that time period.

Zeitler - Karton, Murnau / Oberbayern, Hat Boxes, Hat Cases, Hat Holders

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...au-oberbayern-hat-boxes-hat-cases-hat-holders

Your JHS "Superior Velour" is fantastic!