German & Austrian Hutmachers

[mayserwegener]

The eagle with only one head and hammer and sickle is the coat of arms of the Republic of Austria as it is still in use today. The origin (and therefore the dating of your hat) is in the 1st Republic of Austria 1919-1934.
Afterwards the coat of arms changes again under the government of Dollfuß (Federal State of Austria):
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coat_of_arms_of_Austria

Matt, Thanks. Yes I am aware of that. I had looked up the crest a while ago. I don't believe I have another hat with this crest but I do have this plate. The plate came from Vienna so it must have been used by P. & C. Habig Wien as a sample display. It has Vienna (also Hatters) instead of Wien which was used for American market P. & C. Habig Wien hats. Not sure (would need to search) about the UK or other English speaking markets / non German speaking markets.

I have P. & C. Habig Wien hats from the same time period with double eagle crests. For example this one that is date stamped October 16, 1930.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/5-p-c-habig-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=712

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Steve, this plaque is great! Where did you get it?
Where do you think it is from? It's not a stamp.
Looks like a house tag with a number on it!?
From a shop? But actually fascinating with the "Vienna"!

By the way: Since antiquity, the mural crown symbolizes
the city and thus the bourgeoisie, the sickle stands for the peasantry
and the hammer for the working class - but you probably already know that.

But the bowler's coat of arms from 1930 supports the thesis from before:
The Austrians were still attuned to the monarchy, hence both the crowned double eagle
and the signature: K.K.Hof-Hutfabrikant.
For the International Market (also for the Weimar Republic,
where the connection to the Empire was officially "less liked")
the new coat of arms of the Republic was used.
Fantastic, Steve: Your hats and "advertising" are a piece of (social) history!

 

[mayserwegener]

Steve, this plaque is great! Where did you get it?
Where do you think it is from? It's not a stamp.
Looks like a house tag with a number on it!?
From a shop? But actually fascinating with the "Vienna"!

By the way: Since antiquity, the mural crown symbolizes
the city and thus the bourgeoisie, the sickle stands for the peasantry
and the hammer for the working class - but you probably already know that.

But the bowler's coat of arms from 1930 supports the thesis from before:
The Austrians were still attuned to the monarchy, hence both the crowned double eagle
and the signature: K.K.Hof-Hutfabrikant.
For the International Market (also for the Weimar Republic,
where the connection to the Empire was officially "less liked")
the new coat of arms of the Republic was used.
Fantastic, Steve: Your hats and "advertising" are a piece of (social) history!

Matt, The plate came from a seller in Vienna. It's not a stamp / die. It was mounted so maybe a building number but not sure why it's in English. After a quick search I couldn't find any address with "79" but maybe a room number. As I mentioned P. & C. Habig Wien used "Vienna" and "Hatters" for American market hats (see below).

P. & C. Habig Vienna Hatters (1950s)

P. & C. Habig Wien mostly used the double eagle post WWII. You might be correct about the Wiemar Republic although the Seidl München Stiff Felt was from that time. Maybe it was regional but here is another Berlin example but with the double eagle. This one is most likely from 1935 so post Weimar Republic.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/5-p-c-habig-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=1134

 

[Garrett]

This Mayser arrived today - it will shortly be headed to Bob at BSHW for refurbishment. Though marked a size 54 it fits more like a 55. Hoping Steve will chime in with a date for this one (my guesstimate is late 30s perhaps 40s).

 

[steur]

This Mayser arrived today - it will shortly be headed to Bob at BSHW for refurbishment. Though marked a size 54 it fits more like a 55. Hoping Steve will chime in with a date for this one (my guesstimate is late 30s perhaps 40s).


View attachment 223228 View attachment 223229 View attachment 223230 View attachment 223231 View attachment 223232 View attachment 223233

Very nice, Garrett. Should be a glorious hat after Bob does his magic on it.

 

[mayserwegener]

This Mayser arrived today - it will shortly be headed to Bob at BSHW for refurbishment. Though marked a size 54 it fits more like a 55. Hoping Steve will chime in with a date for this one (my guesstimate is late 30s perhaps 40s).


View attachment 223228 View attachment 223229 View attachment 223230 View attachment 223231 View attachment 223232 View attachment 223233

Garrett, Thanks posting the photos with the paper label. I am not sure I have seen a "Perl" before. My guess it is post WWII possibly late 1940s early 1950s. These are definitely WWII era or earlier.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/3-mayser-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=2034

 

[mayserwegener]

Mayser's Hutfabrik G. M. B. H. Receipt for Felix Fenn Dresden, October 24, 1931.

Notice the size breakdown (handwritten) for each model.

Here is a Mayser's "Orion" from the same time period.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/3-mayser-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=1482

The following is very interesting.

Extract from the Sales, Delivery and Payment terms of the Central Association of Hat Manufacturers Germany e. V. in dealings with Men's Hat Retail. (1/1/1928)

Invoices are payable in gold marks (§ 3 Coins Act of August 30, 1924. 1: 2790 kg fine gold) 30 days after the end of the delivery month with a 2% discount or 60 days after the end of the delivery month: net without discount.

Respect days are not granted. - Bills of exchange can be taken in payment, then a minimum discount rate of 2% above the Reichsbank discount for bills of up to three months, a rate of 4% per Reichsbank discount for bills of exchange with a longer term and for bills on secondary places.

Deliveries from the 26th of the month from are considered deliveries of the following month

3% are credited to Reichsbank discount for advance interest for advance payment, and 3% to Reichsbank discount for default interest if the target is exceeded.

Cash account is not granted if older invoices are still unpaid.

Small deviations from the delivery quantity due to manufacturing defects do not have to be delivered later.

Made-to-measure hats and orders for up to three pieces per shape and color are subject to a surcharge of 10%; A width of more than 60 cm is 20%.

If the manufacturer is in error, before the customer can assert any other right, a grace period of 18 working days must be set (registered letter).

The place of performance is the location of the manufacturer's branch. The place of jurisdiction for claims by the manufacturer is also the Berlin-Mitte courts.

The group of detailed manufacturers of the Central Association of Hat Manufacturers in Germany E.V.

K. Bronnold, Gebr. Gattel, J. Hückel 's Söhne, Mayser's Hutfabrik.G.m.b.H., Gebr. Messerschmidt, Ph. Möckel, Rehfus & Cie, A. Riedel , C.G. Wilke.

Mayser's Hutfabrik G. M. B. H. Receipt for F. Fenn Dresden Cotta, April 3, 1933

 

[Rmccamey]

Amazing history in those old invoices. How did you end up with them?

Mayser's Hutfabrik G. M. B. H. Receipt for Felix Fenn Dresden, October 24, 1931.

Notice the size breakdown (handwritten) for each model.

Here is a Mayser's "Orion" from the same time period.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/3-mayser-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=1482

The following is very interesting.

Extract from the Sales, Delivery and Payment terms of the Central Association of Hat Manufacturers Germany e. V. in dealings with Men's Hat Retail. (1/1/1928)

Invoices are payable in gold marks (§ 3 Coins Act of August 30, 1924. 1: 2790 kg fine gold) 30 days after the end of the delivery month with a 2% discount or 60 days after the end of the delivery month: net without discount.

Respect days are not granted. - Bills of exchange can be taken in payment, then a minimum discount rate of 2% above the Reichsbank discount for bills of up to three months, a rate of 4% per Reichsbank discount for bills of exchange with a longer term and for bills on secondary places.

Deliveries from the 26th of the month from are considered deliveries of the following month

3% are credited to Reichsbank discount for advance interest for advance payment, and 3% to Reichsbank discount for default interest if the target is exceeded.

Cash account is not granted if older invoices are still unpaid.

Small deviations from the delivery quantity due to manufacturing defects do not have to be delivered later.

Made-to-measure hats and orders for up to three pieces per shape and color are subject to a surcharge of 10%; A width of more than 60 cm is 20%.

If the manufacturer is in error, before the customer can assert any other right, a grace period of 18 working days must be set (registered letter).

The place of performance is the location of the manufacturer's branch. The place of jurisdiction for claims by the manufacturer is also the Berlin-Mitte courts.

The group of detailed manufacturers of the Central Association of Hat Manufacturers in Germany E.V.

K. Bronnold, Gebr. Gattel, J. Hückel 's Söhne, Mayser's Hutfabrik.G.m.b.H., Gebr. Messerschmidt, Ph. Möckel, Rehfus & Cie, A. Riedel , C.G. Wilke.

Mayser's Hutfabrik G. M. B. H. Receipt for F. Fenn Dresden Cotta, April 3, 1933

 

[mayserwegener]

Amazing history in those old invoices. How did you end up with them?

Randy, Thank you! I found the receipts while searching the internet.

 

[mayserwegener]

My friend Radek Polach is now the leader of the August Hückel's Villas Restoration Project. I received the following article / videos from Radek. I also heard the Tonak closed production this week so very bad news.

Experts Determine What Came Be Saved In Hückel's Villas (Article and Video)

https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&tab=rT&sl=cs&tl=en&u=https://polar.cz/zpravy/novojicinsko/novy-jicin/11000019459/odbornici-urcili-co-z-novojicinskych-huckelovych-vil-lze-zachranit

The Guild of Hatter Masters was founded in Nový Jičín 390 years ago (Article and Video)

https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&tab=rT&sl=cs&tl=en&u=https://polar.cz/zpravy/novojicinsko/novy-jicin/11000019483/cech-kloboucnickych-mistru-vznikl-v-novem-jicine-pred-390-let

 

[mayserwegener]

Hutfabrik Brüder Böhm, Wien VII, Schottenfeldgasse (1950s) I received these back in December 2018.

 

[mayserwegener]

"Böhmovy Klobouky" Display Mannequin possibly 1930s. This is a seller photo from March 2018. I regret passing on it.

 

[mayserwegener]

Carl Jacobs Halle a/S. possibly 1930s or earlier. I wore this hat Easter Sunday so I thought I would post it here. Most likely sourced by Carl Jacobs Halle a/S. but no paper label.

 

[steur]

Carl Jacobs Halle a/S. possibly 1930s or earlier. I wore this hat Easter Sunday so I thought I would post it here. Most likely sourced by Carl Jacobs Halle a/S. but no paper label.

How did I miss this one? Very cool find, Steve. The very narrow bow is something I've not seen before.

 

[steur]

Picked this up last week.
Gallinat homburg in brown. Size 57 with the brim at 6cm and the crown 11cm at the center dent. despite the French sounding name, I'm fairly certain it's German made. The "rein haar" and "handarbeit" are indications of the German manufacture. There's no other label inside the hat besides the size label. It was sold by Rottaler Huthaus, Eggenfelden, Germany (still in existence today). I have another Gallinat in my collection and I've seen another once, but it's not a brand that's seen often. Weighs 133 grams, with a very nice hand to the (very soft) felt.

Unfortunately not my size (too wide for me alas).

 

[mayserwegener]

How did I miss this one? Very cool find, Steve. The very narrow bow is something I've not seen before.

Stefan, Thank you! I brought this one out of the vault!

 

[mayserwegener]

Picked this up last week.
Gallinat homburg in brown. Size 57 with the brim at 6cm and the crown 11cm at the center dent. despite the French sounding name, I'm fairly certain it's German made. The "rein haar" and "handarbeit" are indications of the German manufacture. There's no other label inside the hat besides the size label. It was sold by Rottaler Huthaus, Eggenfelden, Germany (still in existence today). I have another Gallinat in my collection and I've seen another once, but it's not a brand that's seen often. Weighs 133 grams, with a very nice hand to the (very soft) felt.

Unfortunately not my size (too wide for me alas).

Stefan, Great find! I don't think I have any information on this mark. My guess is it's a distributor's mark and the hat was sourced. I hope to eventually track down some of these 1950s and later marks.

 

[steur]

Stefan, Great find! I don't think I have any information on this mark. My guess is it's a distributor's mark and the hat was sourced. I hope to eventually track down some of these 1950s and later marks.

Thanks, Steve. It would be great if some information turned up. I wouldn't be surprised if they were made by Hückel Welheim. The other one I have is very similar to the Hückel chamois and chevrau hats.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks, Steve. It would be great if some information turned up. I wouldn't be surprised if they were made by Hückel Welheim. The other one I have is very similar to the Hückel chamois and chevrau hats.

Stefan, Yes that is possible. I think they most will lead to a distributor which would be a dead end. I should check with Friedrich W. Schneider to see they still have any records from the 1950s and earlier.

 

[steur]

Here's an interesting find. Listed as an Echter Borsalino size 52 and bought for 1 euro. The shipping costs were twenty times that. It arrived in a box just big enough for the postage stamp and out popped this one.
Not a Borsalino, but a Hückel Standard in a size 55. An honest mistake by the seller though, because the Borsalino liner is real enough. The cardboard behind the sweatband made the hat seem smaller than it is. The liner is a later addition of course, as the hat was originally unlined. I took out the liner and found that the Hückel crown patch was gone, but the patch from the dealer was still there. Can't really make heads or tails of it though. It looks like the same design is on the sweatband as well, but even more faded. It didn't need all that much persuasion to return to somewhat normal, but more TLC is needed.
Bound brim at 5cm and crown 11cm at the center dent (more or less).
The way it was listed:

What it is at this moment:

More in part II