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German & Austrian Hutmachers

Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
My point is that the style actually had some popularity here in America. Robert (RLK) posted this a while back. They were more popular in the 1950s into the 1960s and you see them pop up on eBay all the time (originally sold by Brooks Brothers, Neiman Marcus, ect.).

TYROLEAN!!!!
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Chepstow

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,406
Location
Germany/ Remscheid
Nice Hat Richard!

Great ads Steve!
By the way not all Trachten hats are very special and boring. There are some nice hats under them! Especially the wider brimmed hats are very interesting like Steves hat!
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Manfred, I know this style is mostly associated with Bavaria in Germany but Rehfus produced a similar looking style (most here would consider it Alpine). I know in Baden (Black Forest) there also similar looking hats. Do you know anything about the Rehfus hat? I seem to recall some article about it.

I found it. Manfred posted this a while back.

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The Imprint on the sweatband shows "Abt. Oberländer" / Dept. UpperCountry in English. We mean it was an alpine Hat, it is for Rehfus a Hunting Hat.
That hat was "The racer from the house Rehfus was the "Oberländer", a hat made of waterproof tumbled fur, found mainly in the hunting circles very popular and was made after the First World War as a normal Street Hat in all colors and shapes.
Rehfus gave himself the nickname Oberländer.
Enter 1907 the additional name "Oberländer" at the Karlsruhe Department of Justice did.
Carl Johann Rehfus Oberländer-died in 1926.

This Book was written by Carl Johann Rehfus-Oberländer.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/616SXVTT2YL._SS500_.jpg

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Chepstow

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,406
Location
Germany/ Remscheid
Yes Steve. This was the most popular hat from Rehfus. The Oberländer. Not only for hunting, later as City hat in different Colors!

This is and interesting article about Rehfus!
http://www.google.de/imgres?imgurl=...PT4UojRF8jesgazyIHwDA&ved=0CD4Q9QEwAw&dur=608

The Google Translation

Estate of Mary Rehfus - Oberlander : "This is a real treasure "

City history, family history , economic history , cultural history : The estate , which the heirs of 31 May the deceased Maria Rehfus - Oberlander left to Kehler City Archives , " is a real treasure ," says archive and museum director Ute shear bands . The photos and documents not only provide information about the 1920 -born interpreter and photographer Maria Rehfus top countries, but about family members from four generations. Even the little book with the handwritten essays Freemason and former mayor of the village of Kehl, John Carl Rehfus , Mary's great-grandfather, is among them .

The fact that John Carl ( born 1824 , died 1898) was a Freemason , is not in the family history Rehfus - Oberland . Although Ute Scherb knew of Wolf -Dirk Meyer from Bodersweier that 1900 was a freemason lodge in Kehl - the minute books in Berlin are located in the Secret State Archives Prussian Cultural Heritage . For the first time Ute Scherb now holds an original in hands , in which John Carl Rehfus has probably worked out the presentations by hand, which he has kept clear later in front of the lodge . He has 27 March 1882 an article entitled "Dialogue on the existence of God " written or 7 September 1881 - ie in the time of the monarchy - on "The status of democracy against the ecclesiastical faith " is reasoning .
With his Masonic colleagues Jean Schütterle the merchant John Carl Rehfus has helped his half brother Rudolf Ferdinand Rehfus to erect the building for the 1865 in Lahr , founded as " Müller and Rehfus Haarhutfabrik " , in 1867 moved to Kehl companies - the so-called Rehfus - Villa, now the seat of the Competence Centre for European issues. The hat factory was then taken over by his son Carl Johann Rehfus , who wrote under the pseudonym of Oberlander several books on hunting and was so successful that he eventually made ​​the pseudonym for the name component . Which animals - from the partridge to the Bears - Carl Johann has when shot is neatly record in his shot book, which has also been found in the estate of granddaughter Maria Rehfus - Oberland . A bear , however, was not provided in the pre-printed animal species in the booklet , so that Carl Johann these dated 18 January 1903 has added handwritten . The Oberlander Memorial in Kronenhof was dedicated to him by " German huntsmen " 1955.

A melon and a top countries from hat factory Kehler , the essay booklet by John Carl Rehfus and two works from the pen of his son, hunting writer Carl Johann Rehfus - Oberland
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By Carl Johann ( 1855-1926 ) , the hat factory was taken over by his son Carl -Hans Rehfus - Oberlander ( 1890-1976 ) , who seems to have inherited from his father both the passion for hunting as well as for writing , supplemented by the Photography . Photo albums that are part of the estate , it can be concluded that Carl -Hans has a good deal in his book " In the Arctic Wilderness " published photos shot himself . He also has a photo-reportage about his experiences in World War I published , in which he has proudly stated at the bottom that the photos of him come . " To my dear daughter Maria appropriated by the author " : The Book of the Father, the Maria Rehfus - Oberlander has kept until her death , bears the inscription . Dedicated to the book is the eight- years-younger son, Carl Hans , who died eleven years with polio .
Maybe it was the early death of little " Männele " whose carefully glued into albums photos Maria Rehfus - Oberlander has guarded that has particularly closely knit family , maybe it was the death of the heir , which led to the fact that Maria after graduation first completed an apprenticeship as a milliner and has worked up to the second evacuation of Kehl in 1944 in the factory. In 1946 she participated in the interpreter Institute of the University of Heidelberg on her college degree in English and translated to 1950 in the civil administration in Heidelberg for the Americans. Then they returned again into the hat factory , where it remained until its dissolution in 1963. Only then could they turn their hobby into a profession , to be trained at the School of Photography in Hamburg and go freelance as a photographer .

Rehfus - Nachlass2
Photographed Mary had been in the time in which her ​​family was evacuated in Meissen home - the photos with recognizable artistic merit , are collected in a labeled envelope, also part of the estate . Recorded photographically it also has the inauguration of the upland monument with torches or numerous Altrhein motifs . Thanks to the estate of the archive now has a number of " very wonderful fillet pictures ," said Ute Scherb says.
A long training seems to have photographer Maria Rehfus - Oberlander not needed, photos of stars and celebrities of that time can be found as early as 1964 in her estate . She has them all before the lens : Katja Ebstein , Roy Black, Dieter- Thomas Heck , Horst Tappert , Vicky Leandros , Uschi Glas , The Bee Gees ( three times ) , Rex Gildo and of course Udo Jürgens . At the first calendar entry , the latter is still Udo J. , thereafter only Udo . With Lotti Ohnesorge , in the second half of the 60s , the popular Saturday afternoon show "Hot & Sweet" moderated , occurred in the international pop stars, she married well a friendship - so many photos of " the Munich sex vocal wonder " how Lotti Ohnesorge was called in the press, can be found in her estate .
Maria Rehfus - Oberlander has photographed for ZDF and ARD for , for the star for picture, the clock and many others. She was photographed for the Hamburg State Opera - commissioned by director Rolf Liebermann . When he moved to the Paris National Opera , he has her there also allows you to work , such as photos of the orchestra director Professor Carl Böhm show as he conducts the Mozart opera "The Abduction from the Seraglio ."

Maria Rehfus top countries used in their Hamburg years a very close and loving relationship with her ​​parents , she has kept not only countless memorabilia, preserved are also many postcards she wrote her parents from Hamburg. It reports on their orders , congratulates her father to shoot down a " 6- Bocks ," sends a card on which she has marked in the high-rise, where she lives with a red cross , the apartment, on another card it features the garage where her car is . When she wants to buy additional lenses for their Leica , she asks her father as much about money as when they have to pay the full insurance for your VW . After his father's death in 1976 she returned back to Kehl in order to take care of her mother.
Maria Rehfus - Oberlander was never married and had no children. Already at the turn of the millennium she left Ute Scherbs predecessor Hartmut Stüwe books her grandfather and several documents . When she moved into the nursing home in 2008 , Klaus grass mediated transfer of the artistic photos and many other documents. With her ​​will, the books her grandfather and her father's Arctic work, the permanent loans were preceded , on the property of the Hanauer museum. As the heirs found a number of other documents Rehfusschen family history and the history of the city of Kehl , they took on the intention of Maria Rehfus - Oberlander and donated the estate to the Hanauer Museum.

A freshly washed polar bear skin in front of the hat factory - photographed by Maria Rehfus - Oberland
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Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Manfred, Great article! Thanks! Interesting that it was eventually worn as a city hat. This shows that even in Germany such hats made that transition.
 
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Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
I actually sold 40 some Trachten style hats (old stock) at a weekend Christmas market this past November. I was surprised that many young women were interested in them.
 

ManofKent

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,039
Location
United Kingdom
Steve great adverts. Manfred, thanks, and thank you for that Rehfus article.

Trachten had a brief period of poularity in the UK in the 50's/60's.

Steve - I've noticed they're becoming popular amongst 'hipsters', male and female.
 

ManofKent

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,039
Location
United Kingdom
I've just compare by 'Delmonte' to my Rehfus, and I'm wondering whether Delmonte was an undersell label for Rehfus. The felt seems identical, brim binding looks the same, the sweats appear to have come from the same supplier, and I think they're made on the same block, but with the Delmonte having 1/4" less brim width.
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Richard, The Alpine style was popular here during the same time period. I agree the current Hipster hats are in the Alpine style so some are probably attracted to the real thing. Also there is a high end Trachten fashion scene that has made it's way from Vienna to NYC.

You could be right about the Delmonte being made by Rehfus. I assume it doesn't have a paper label.
 

TheDane

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,670
Location
Copenhagen, Denmark
Steve, I actually don't think we disagree on anything but taste here. I love most of the old European longhairs - except for the more "ruffled" types, that to me looks like cheap faux fur from the 50s and 60s.

The smaller, pointy trachtenhüte are just not compatible with my taste in hats. Some of the wider brimmed are okay, but I still don't fancy most of the trimmings. I just don't like "Ropes", pins, feathers and gamsbart on any hat - European or American. I don't like a "self ribbon" - a band of felt around the crown - either. I really like Dobb's The Gay Prince, but I would like it even more with a grosgrain ribbon.

It's absolutely not that I don't like European hats or can't appreciate them. I just don't like certain styles of hats - no matter where they were produced. I love good food, no matter where it's made. Not least do I love a lot from the Central European kitchens. Nevertheless "leberknödel" is one of the very few exceptions, I would give a lot to live without. There are certainly also Danish traditions I don't feel like sharing. Nothing more to my point than that :)

Ole, I was going to suggest Danish Pastries, but just read that they are an import from Vienna... I have read one of Jussi Adler-Olsen's books (in translation) if that cheers you up ;)

Hehe ... I think, the old Danes had a lot of impact on Britain, but Jussi Adler-Olsen has probably had a little more peaceful impact. The great number of Afro-Americans can also to a large degree be attributed to Danish influence, but the slave trade era is absolutely not something we're proud of. We actually have a lot more to be proud of than the cork-belt and Antabus tablet, but it's funny to realize, that many of the "obvious" Danish traditions originally came to us with foreign immigrants. I believe, that's the case in most countries, and a severe problem to nationalist argumentation most places ;)
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Ole, I understand the taste factor but my point is the style had some popularity here in America. Also southern Germans that immigrated (it was a giant immigration) here wore them. As I mentioned above I sold about 40 Trachten hats over one weekend just this past November.
 

ManofKent

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,039
Location
United Kingdom
Thanks Steve, Only the vague remains of a paper label.

Ole - I'm not a trachtenhüte fan. I like the more fedora like grey Austrian hats with the green grosgrain ribbons, but I'm not a rope fan, and any hat too small and pointy looks ridiculous on my big head. I don't mind self-ribbons though. I hold the right to change my mind at any point though - it took be a while to appreciate velours, and now happily own a couple, and would like more. A lot of people don't like 50's/60's Stingies, but I do and am quite happy that it keeps their prices fairly low :)

Nationalism is a strange beast. I'm never sure whether my nationality is British or English, and most web forms seem to think it's UK. I'm quite happy being European, although we're forever being told by the right-wing press that Europe is a terrible place and that European Law prevents us doing things. If I tried to take pride in my nation (whatever that is) I'd have an awful lot of things I'd have to try and forget about too. This is coming from some one who is proudly a Man of Kent, and not a Kentish Man, by the way ;)
 

yttclothing

One of the Regulars
Messages
248
Location
United Kingdom
While im struggling to get an order from my normal location ive been using good translate to browse Europe, and this arrived this morning a small shipment of small hats nevertheless some nice interesting hats (why are they never in my size :( )

Let's start with this by far the most beautiful of the lot but my goodness have the moths been at this:

Wilke 50's? Or Earlier

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This LH

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There are a couple more ill get online at some point
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Paddy, The C. G. Wilke is really fantastic and rare. Also a light color. Does it measure a 5 Point? It's from the original factory in Guben so probably from the 1930s. The L HF has a nice look.
 

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