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Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

Many thanks everyone.

It's from an interesting piece comparing current (circa 1931) West End and American drafts. This of course is the Wes End draft. I'll scan and post. I have modified it, though, to add the waistband and fishtail.

Fantastic! That fishtail is perfect. Could you share the draft? I think it would be perfect for a suit I'm planning.

Good work BK respect.

Wow! Love it!

Excellent BK. I too am interested in seeing the draft, if possible.

Very good. I'm assuming you are very happy with the progress?

Yes indeed. Some things still tricky, but better with each pair.

Great job Baron!
 

Nick D

Call Me a Cab
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2,166
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Upper Michigan
It's from an interesting piece comparing current (circa 1931) West End and American drafts. This of course is the Wes End draft. I'll scan and post. I have modified it, though, to add the waistband and fishtail.

Thanks, BK. Would it be possible to include the American draft as well? It would be very interesting to see the two together for the Vintage Tailoring thread.
 

Nick D

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,166
Location
Upper Michigan
The trousers for my suit are done, here are Parts Four, Five, and Six:
http://vestisferrea.tumblr.com/post/69820406831/tailoring-a-vintage-inspired-suit-part-four
http://vestisferrea.tumblr.com/post/70255989344/tailoring-a-vintage-inspired-suit-part-five
http://vestisferrea.tumblr.com/post/70316890198/tailoring-a-vintage-inspired-suit-part-six

tumblr_inline_mxywu7JM0T1s1ca7u.jpg
 

Annixter

Practically Family
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783
Location
Up Yonder
Great writeup and trousers, Nick. Thanks for taking the time to document your process. Out of curiosity, do you prefer hand-stitching, as opposed to machine, your seam allowance edges (the overcasting) and buttonholes out of enjoyment or out of style?
 

Nick D

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,166
Location
Upper Michigan
Thanks, gents :) Annixter, I tried machine finishing the seam edges a couple times and never cared for the results, but I don't have a serger. If I did I might do that by machine. The suits I've had that were tailor-made have always been hand overcast. As for buttonholes, as someone once pointed out to me, they have machines that do that now, too, but having hand sewn buttonholes is one of the nice things about custom-made clothes. I've done dozens of them, I can do about three an hour and have gotten pretty consistent (though still improving).
 

Annixter

Practically Family
Messages
783
Location
Up Yonder
^^Wonderful work, Nick.:eusa_clap Your write-ups are great as well and very helpful as I make my way through the trouser project. If you'd stop by my thread in the suits forum, I'd appreciate your input on some questions I have.

I'm chomping at the bit awaiting the jacket write-up.
 

Nick D

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,166
Location
Upper Michigan
I've finished the suit. This is my fifth three-piece, and first double breasted jacket. Apologies for the poor photos, the camera focuses behind me when I use the timer.

SAM_4357_zps3a6566ef.jpg

SAM_4367_zpsb51a618b.jpg

SAM_4364_zpse5fc2138.jpg

SAM_4365_zpsaac2b540.jpg

SAM_4368_zps3bfda45f.jpg

SAM_4342_zps6d992bc5.jpg


The fabric is lighter than I'd prefer (about 12 oz, I think). I cut the 38 jacket, but should have cut the 36 since I'm really a 37 and the pattern runs a bit large. I also had problems with the sleeves, as documented in the vintage tailoring thread, but I salvaged them through altering the sleeves I had cut. Next time will be better.

I'm pleased with how the collar and lapels turned out, and I learned a new way to baste on the top collar, which works better than the way I was doing it. I also got much better at doing the seam bindings with the machine, and the interior finish is nice and clean.

I will do the writeups for the final stages of the jacket for my Tumblr blog soon, I have to edit all the photos.
 

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