Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

[Nick D]

What types of canvas are you using for the fronts? I look forward to seeing the progress.

The 'puff' at the shoulder looks quite wide. Is it called for in the draft, or are there two smaller ones?

I'll be starting my third jacket soon, I'll try to also take progress photos of the process. Mine will be from a vintage paper pattern, not a draft, but the construction will be tailored.

 

[Qirrel]

The drafting instructions only come with this small pictures and you have to use more maths? I think I have some german magazines with drafts. If you search for something special i could look it up, scan it and maybe translate it. Would be to much work to do it with all of them.

Yup. There is a small sketch of how it should look like when you are finished, and accompanying instructions for what measurements or proportions of measurements to use and where to apply them.

I might be interested in some scans from your magazines. What are the magazines you have called? (And there would not be any need for translation; I know German.)

What types of canvas are you using for the fronts? I look forward to seeing the progress.

The 'puff' at the shoulder looks quite wide. Is it called for in the draft, or are there two smaller ones?

I'll be starting my third jacket soon, I'll try to also take progress photos of the process. Mine will be from a vintage paper pattern, not a draft, but the construction will be tailored.

I use a linen red/white/blue edge canvas for both the chest piece and the main canvas. At the lapel i put an extra layer of tightly woven cotton, and on top of the upper part of the canvas i put a piece of thin felt.

The wedge at the shoulder is indeed quite wide, but it has to be, since it is doing the same job that one smaller cut at the shoulder plus three cuts at the armscye would do. Basically just a different way of making the canvas.

 

[Yeps]

Somehow I forgot about this thread.

I made three of these around Thanksgiving, after modifying the pattern I drafted for my linen cap. One was for me, the prototype, one for my brother, and a third was for a lounger, although I messed up the measurements and came up with a size 7 instead of 7 1/8, so now I have a spare one sitting around. Shame, because it was the best one.

 

[Mario]

I never cease to be amazed by the craftsmanship found here. If I were to try something like that I'd inevitably stab myself to death with the scissors - or even with the needle! And even though I like (trying) to do things with my own hands I'm simply not very good at it. [huh]:eusa_doh:

 

[Nick D]

Excellent fabric, and I particularly like how you've matched the lining to one of the flecks. That's something I often do with linings. You can get little gizmos to make a fabric-covered button for the top as well.

 

[Nick D]

Here's a project I finished a little while ago. A pair of plus-fours made from EvaDress pattern Sp20-3906. The pattern is from the '20s, so they're narrower in the leg and with less blousing over the knee than with 30s-era plus-fours. They have a cut-on rear fishtail waistband, back strap, button fly, and the side pockets button closed.

Button and buttonhole in the side pocket facings.

The next pair I make will be wider and maybe an inch longer.

 

[Nick D]

Another finished project, a 1930s jacket pattern for an 8-year-old, which I made for my son. He's not 3 yet, but I have several vintage patterns for older children I'll make for him years in advance so he can grow into them.

 

[Qirrel]

Pockets finished, canvas basted in, and lapels padded:

 

[David-B]

I tried posting from the mobile version of the site but don't think it worked.... Great work! How long did it take to make them? Any plans for a waistcoat and jacket?

 

[Bugsy]

Here's a project I finished a little while ago. A pair of plus-fours made from EvaDress pattern Sp20-3906. The pattern is from the '20s, so they're narrower in the leg and with less blousing over the knee than with 30s-era plus-fours. They have a cut-on rear fishtail waistband, back strap, button fly, and the side pockets button closed.

Button and buttonhole in the side pocket facings.

The next pair I make will be wider and maybe an inch longer.

Ablsoutely incredible!!!

 

[Nick D]

Pockets finished, canvas basted in, and lapels padded:

Qirrel, is this jacket going to have square front quarters, or are you going to trim them before finishing the fronts? Do you have a scan of the draft?

Bugsy, thank you! In the near future I'll use this pattern, with some alterations (wider, longer), along with a jacket and waistcoat out of linen for a plus-fours summer suit. Hopefully I'll have it done for spring.

 

[Qirrel]

It will be finished square, as you see it now. I'll post a picture of the draft and the instructions later today.

 

[Qirrel]

Here you go:


Square construction lines from A.
Scale = 1/2 chest.
A-2 = 1/2 scale.
A-3 = Waist length.
3-4 = 9" always.
A-5 = Length of coat.
6-3 = 1 1/4" always for normal figure.
4-7 = 1/2".

8 is located by running backseam through point 7 from 6; and nine is located by connecting 6 with A.

Square out all lines as indicated.

A-10 = 1/6 of scale and up 5/8" for 11.
12-1 = 1/2 width of back, add 1/2" for two seams.
Square 12 up and down for guide line.
13-2 = 2/3 of scale.
14 is squared up from 13.
15 is 3 1/2" always from 14.
16 is halfway from 12 to 13, square up.
17-16 = 1/3 of scale.
Connect 11 and 17, and 15 and 17 forming shoulder slopes; make width of front shoulder to agree with back.
18-13 = 1/12 scale, and out to 19 one inch.
19 1/2-9 = 1/2 breast measure.
20 is squared down from 19 1/2.
21-20 = one inch less than 1/4 of 1/2 breast.
22-21 = 1/4 of the actual 1/2 waist measure.
23-19 1/2 = 3 1/2" for making up and button stand etc.
24-22 = 3 1/2". " " " " "
25-15 = 2 1/2".
26-25 = 1".
27-26 = 1" and rule crease edge of lapel from 27 to top button. The arrow marks below 12 and above 13 indicate sleeve pitches.
Front shoulders are stretched where indicated with a hot iron, to agree with canvas foundation.

 

[David-B]

Plus Fours

Here's a project I finished a little while ago. A pair of plus-fours made from EvaDress pattern Sp20-3906. The pattern is from the '20s, so they're narrower in the leg and with less blousing over the knee than with 30s-era plus-fours. They have a cut-on rear fishtail waistband, back strap, button fly, and the side pockets button closed.

Button and buttonhole in the side pocket facings.

The next pair I make will be wider and maybe an inch longer.

Just figuring out how to post so that it makes sense, apologies for any confusion earlier post may have caused. The Plus fours look great. How long did they take to make? Any plans for a waistcoat and jacket? Are they with in the realms of an amateur to make?

 

[Nick D]

Just figuring out how to post so that it makes sense, apologies for any confusion earlier post may have caused. The Plus fours look great. How long did they take to make? Any plans for a waistcoat and jacket? Are they with in the realms of an amateur to make?

Thanks, David. I have made up a jacket and waistcoat from this fabric, but it was my first jacket so it has fit issues. I'll just wear them as odd trousers. As I posted above, I'll make them up as a suit in linen.

They took about a week to make, maybe longer because I have less time to sew than I'd like. This pattern I would only recommend for an advanced sewer, or someone who's made a lot of trousers. Being from the '20s there are only written directions, and of those only two dense paragraphs that leave an awful lot out. There was a definite assumption that the sewer would know how to put them together.

 

[David-B]

Nick, Sorry I missed the post re the linen suit, That will be great. I look forward to seeing pictures of it. I am definitely not an experienced sewer, but am usually up for a challenge when it comes to making things. I may just give it a go. I think you are right re the length and fullness in your earlier post though, a bit more generous would be good. I have pair of off the peg Plus fours from Hackett, which are OK but could really do with being a bit fuller. Also Have a pair converted from very baggy pair of POW check trousers I never liked as trousers and they fit the bill a little better. Do you have any recommendations for a good source of info for making trousers which could be adapted to work for the Plus Fours?

 

[herringbonekid]

Qirrel, what type/weight of fabric are you using for your 20s style jacket ?

 

[Qirrel]

Qirrel, what type/weight of fabric are you using for your 20s style jacket ?

It is a tightly woven but soft flannel-ish wool at about 15 oz.

 

[Qirrel]

Slow progress last two weeks, but I have now got the body finished. Next up: the sleeves, collar, buttonholes and finishing. The lining is rather ugly, but I needed to get rid of the fabric somehow.

 

[darthinvictus]

Sometimes I make jewelry Here are some class rings I made for another website, Marshall college 1937. They are sterling