General fit criteria -- What are yours?

[LaymanX]

Having owned 6 Aero leather jackets (selling all of them but one) and 2 Vanson ones, I've come to realize what my personal fit criteria are for a jacket to 'stick' in my collection.

i) Cannot pinch anywhere (shoulders, chest, gut, etc), yet shouldn't look like you're wearing your fathers' coat.

ii) Sleeves must reach at least the first knuckle on your thumb (arms down at your side position) after the break in period. I've learned the hard way that sleeve lengths shorten by approx an inch after the jacket is broken in and was left with sleeves that were too short. Body length must cover belt at least.

iii) Must be comfortable zipped up in all positions (standing, sitting, crossed arms, driving position with arms raised, etc) in all times of the day (morning when you just wake up, evening after a big dinner) after break in period. It's easy for an ill-fitting jacket to look great unzipped, hence the importance of this test. This is where most of the jackets I've sold failed the test.

iv) *Optional* Should be able to be worn with layers underneath, or just a t-shirt.

What are your personal fit criteria?

 

[navetsea]

snug and extra snug
but not skin tight

 

[nick123]

Room to layer. Generally a size larger than a "perfect" fit. Also long enough to be able to wear (at least shorter) untucked shirts and not be laughed at.
For sleeves, for custom repros I mostly agree. I want the sleeves to be long enough. For vintage, it doesn't matter as much to me.

 

[LaymanX]

snug and extra snug
but not skin tight

From what I've seen of your custom made jacket, you've nailed that fit dead on then!

 

[Sloan1874]

Depends on style. For me, an A-2 should be snug enough to take a t-shirt/thin jumper under it and no more.

 

[Peacoat]

I prefer a looser fitting jacket as I don't like to feel constricted, so most of mine have room for a vest or a sweater underneath, especially the dedicated riding jackets. One of my Johnson leather jackets is fitted enough that I don't wear a sweater underneath, but then I don't need to as it has a Thinsulate type liner that is quite warm. It fits close enough to my body that there is very little air transfer with resulting heat loss.

Having long arms, one of my pet peeves is a too short sleeve. I am very sensitive to sleeve length. Also, not having the jacket cover my belt is a deal breaker.

 

[handymike]

For me it has to be about an inch or two over the belt, and 24.5"-25.5" in back. Sleeve length is important, but in the 25" range is fine. You make an interesting point LaymanX about the sleeve shortening. I believe the rule of thumb is 1/2" ride up after break-in, but that depends on the leather choice. Recently someone noted that sleeves will ride up to a point on your arm as opposed to a set measurement. So if your sleeves are too long, your jacket will develop more sleeve creases as it settles in, whereas if the sleeves are a bit shorter the creasing will be less. This is very interesting.

 

[Fanch]

For me, it mostly depends on the style, particularly as regards to body length. My Teamster is a somewhat longer jacket and prefer the ability to layer a Filson vest or pullover (jumper) underneath. My Sheene has a shorter body length, ~2-3" below my belt, and is snug but not extra snug. My Mulligan and Maxwell are based on a 1930's HB and are both snug, neither allowing much layering, whereas My Pioneer is based on a 1940's (1950's) HB and allows layering underneath but makes me look/feel like "The Michelin Man" when layered underneath. Like Peacoat, I also have long arms, and the "stork arms" appearance is my pet peeve too. However, my "sweet spot" for sleeves is halfway between the end of the wrist and thumb knuckle joint, not all the way to the thumb knuckle joint itself.

 

[eugenesque]

The fit depends on the type and style of jacket. For my cafe racer, I prefer it more fit and snug, but not skin tight. Just enough to layer a thin sweater underneath. Length wise, I wouldn't mind the belt being exposed by a bit.

For coats or anything heavier, would definitely prefer something roomier.

 

[handymike]

I agree with Fanch. All the way to the thumb knuckle is a bit long, and in hindsight about 1/2 way between the wrist bone and knuckle is perfect.

 

[belfastboy]

I have 5 jackets in a variety of styles, Schott, Vanson, Johnson, Orchard and I like them a little blousey. The Orchard is an A2, size 46 and is a standard military cut that I cannot get used to. Searching out the pics it does fit me properly, no pinches, no stretched spots but I can't get passed the thought it is tooo small for me. I love the jacket but don't wear it as I don't feel comfortable in it.

 

[ProteinNerd]

I cant stand jackets that are a size (or more) too big and blousy. Looks sloppy and like a kid thats wearing his dads jacket, luckily thats the way most guys wear their clothes so it just makes the few who wear proper fitting garments look that much better.

I've realised you need slim fitting jackets for "warmer" weather with only a T-Shirt underneath and others that are one size bigger than this to allow room for an extra layer.

I guess my fit criteria is that it fits properly lol

 

[Seb Lucas]

Looser and longer - I hate those tight fitted jackets that look like old guys dressed in a teenager's leather jacket.

 

[Tedquinton]

I'm new to this jacket malarkey having dropped in from the hat forum. I've read a great deal and found it useful, but I haven't as yet come across a discussion that deals with fit and body shape. From what I've seen cafe racers suit a slim build with a 'V' shaped torso. I imagine other styles suit a more barrel chested shape etc. Is there a resource aligning body shape to style. I realise most people fall between extremes but it would be useful all the same.

Many thanks and wishing everyone a happy 2016.

 

[Grayland]

Looser and longer - I hate those tight fitted jackets that look like old guys dressed in a teenager's leather jacket.

I think that goes both ways. More often than too tight, I see guys wearing jackets one size too big - they appear to be wearing their dad's jacket. I agree that a sausage-like fit looks bad, but so does a too-loose, sloppy fit.

 

[ButteMT61]

I used to like the loose jackets. Now, I've got none of those. Not wearing hipster-tight jackets either, but a nice compromise. When I am in decent shape, I have a decent shape and that motivates me to keep so with a jacket that's more form-fitting.
I've been watching a lot of the Twilight Zone marathon this last few days and they've got a lot of jackets in those old shows.
Watched one today where the "cop" had a great jacket with high rise trousers. Even with those, it was cut above his belt line. Shorter were in for sure. And you'll catch lots of guys with A-2's as well. I imaging that period of time there were 1000's of war surplus jackets to be had for cheap. I'm liking the looks that those guys were wearing in the 60's. More like the kids are wearing today.

 

[Benproof]

General fit criteria......try before buy (if possible, but I don't always adhere..

Main criteria - absolutely no big bum.

Split rear flaps are out, no matter what (especially for suits, where they widen the side profile).

 

[Benproof]

"The Orchard is an A2, size 46 and is a standard military cut that I cannot get used to. Searching out the pics it does fit me properly, no pinches, no stretched spots but I can't get passed the thought it is tooo small for me. I love the jacket but don't wear it as I don't feel comfortable in it."

Strange but familiar to me too. I have a stunning new old stock Orchard police jacket cut in incredibly thick rawhide that I just can't wear too. It is so dam stiff I can't see it ever breaking in while I'm alive! It's one size larger than I wear, although I gather vintage sizes were cut smaller so that would make it right. Whereas it's perfect for polar weather, in another more than zero degrees, it feels like baking. I think comfort and movement, moved comfortably up my fit criteria. Some of those pretty jackets marketed by non-biking manufacturers look great but offer no resistance on the road. That's the other challenge to keeping out the robocop look.

 

[Smithy]

For me it depends entirely on the type of coat or jacket.

If it's an overcoat or parka, room for layering. An A-2, trim but not "Japanese" trim.

I think it's best to get a coat/jacket in the fit that it was intended, in other words for something like an A-2 it was never intended to have a stackload of layers underneath it so an overly large A-2 will (to my eyes anyway) always look wrong.

I think a lot of incorrect fit issues often arise from people trying to use a jacket in ways it was not intended.

 

[ButteMT61]

I think a lot of incorrect fit issues often arise from people trying to use a jacket in ways it was not intended.

There ya go...