G1 Jacket Restoration & Leather conditioning

[Mad Max]

I recently bought a great looking 1960's G1 from Portobello Market and am in the process of restoring it. I already have the replacement cuffs & waist rib set and am currently looking for somewhere to buy a replacement Mouton Fur collar (thinking Lost Worlds) any suggestions??

The leather is great looking without any major damage but has that classic 'Stiff' feel synonymous with old G1's. I would like to make the goat skin just a little softer & more supple/flexible for daily use. Can anyone suggest any techniques, remedies, lotions or products that I can use to help restore the leather to it's original supple condition?

Any info on leather conditioning or replacement Mouton collars would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Treetopflyer]

Pecards is always a good start for the conditioning.

 

[Philalethes]

Almost everyone here will recommend Pecard's, but I have been told that it contains petroleum products, which may damage leather long-term.

I have personally used Dr. Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator on a 1950 G-1: it worked like magic. The goat went from rather stiff to supple. You can purchase it from Insurrection or from Amazon.

A note about Lost World's mutton: from what I have seen (not personally, but on the web), they tend to be quite a dark brown. Nothing wrong with that, if that is the shade you are looking for. If it is not, you may want to look elsewhere.

 

[Mad Max]

Thanks guys.. great stuff! Will look into both types of conditioners. Also curious if anyone has any old house wife tricks or routines that would condition the leather back to a supple state.

Philalethes.. Good to know about Lost World's Mouton, not so bad to be dark brown actually but if you have any advise on where else to look that would be great - want to keep my options open.

 

[Philalethes]

Philalethes.. Good to know about Lost World's Mouton, not so bad to be dark brown actually but if you have any advise on where else to look that would be great - want to keep my options open.

Hi Mad Max,
I can't give any special advice here. I would assume that any major manufacturer that deals with mutton collars (Lost Worlds, Aero, U.S. Authentic, Langlitz, etc.) would be willing to fix your coat for you. I would contact each and see what their prices and turn-around would be. I would assume that Aero would take the longest and U.S. Authentic the shortest. I have never had any repairs done, and I have only purchased from Aero, so I can't make any real recommendations.

Philalethes

 

[Fifty150]

 

[Jaguar66]

I have used Pecards (from Gibson and Barnes), and Leatherique (from Aero). I used the Pecards on a dry stiff G1, and it loosened up the leather, and it became nice and soft. I like Pecards.

I have also used water, and drying technique, to shrink jackets that are too large, (an Aero Half Belt), after which I used Pecards, and now it fits perfectly. I admit I am bolder than many people are.

 

[warbird]

Neatsfoot Oil is one of the absolute worst things you can use on leather long term. It destroys threads, rots leather and also turns rancid. In the old days before I knew better I ruined several good leather products with that crap. It does add a modicum of water protection, but also clogs pores which will not allow leather to breathe, thus attracting dirt and dust. Just like mud left on your hands too long, it dries out leather pulling the natural oils from the leather.

Neatsfoot oil is animal fat renderings and it is nasty stuff when it turns rancid and the smell never leaves.

Pecards, Lexol, Bick4.

 

[deluxestyling]

Aero Leather Scotland restored this Flying Equipment Co. G-1 for me. It got new knits, collar, zip and lining. I went for warmer alpaca lining so I could used in more as a winter jacket.
Before.

After.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Neatsfoot Oil is one of the absolute worst things you can use on leather long term. It destroys threads, rots leather and also turns rancid. In the old days before I knew better I ruined several good leather products with that crap. It does add a modicum of water protection, but also clogs pores which will not allow leather to breathe, thus attracting dirt and dust. Just like mud left on your hands too long, it dries out leather pulling the natural oils from the leather.

Neatsfoot oil is animal fat renderings and it is nasty stuff when it turns rancid and the smell never leaves.

Pecards, Lexol, Bick4.

I agree. I sure wouldn't use it on a nice expensive leather jacket.
HD

 

[frussell]

My issue as a former leatherworker (cowboy gear) with neatsfoot has less to do with going rancid as it does with the above-mentioned stitch damage, and over-penetration. A dry piece of leather will soak up neatsfoot like a sponge, and will sometimes become heavy and less breathable. I watched a fellow horse wrangler soak his chinks in neatsfoot one day, and spend the next four months or so sweating like a hog in his now-impenetrable leg armor. Pretty soon, his stitches rotted, stretched out, and the stitch holes did much the same. I have used other "tallow" products, like R.M. Williams Saddle Dressing, with no "rancid" effects, and it will only soak in as much as the leather needs, allowing you to wipe off the excess. Pecards seems much the same. I know the guy at Horween recommends neatsfoot, but it should definitely be used sparingly. Frank

 

[Tommy-VF51]

Aero Leather Scotland restored this Flying Equipment Co. G-1 for me. It got new knits, collar, zip and lining. I went for warmer alpaca lining so I could used in more as a winter jacket.
Before.

After.

Is it darker in the second thread due to the light? Or was that with the restoration?

 

[RJR]

Aero Leather Scotland restored this Flying Equipment Co. G-1 for me. It got new knits, collar, zip and lining. I went for warmer alpaca lining so I could used in more as a winter jacket.
Before.

After.

Nice restoration.

 

[RJR]

My issue as a former leatherworker (cowboy gear) with neatsfoot has less to do with going rancid as it does with the above-mentioned stitch damage, and over-penetration. A dry piece of leather will soak up neatsfoot like a sponge, and will sometimes become heavy and less breathable. I watched a fellow horse wrangler soak his chinks in neatsfoot one day, and spend the next four months or so sweating like a hog in his now-impenetrable leg armor. Pretty soon, his stitches rotted, stretched out, and the stitch holes did much the same. I have used other "tallow" products, like R.M. Williams Saddle Dressing, with no "rancid" effects, and it will only soak in as much as the leather needs, allowing you to wipe off the excess. Pecards seems much the same. I know the guy at Horween recommends neatsfoot, but it should definitely be used sparingly. Frank

Good information.

 

[Peacoat]

Picard does contain petroleum distillates, but only a trace amount that would in no way damage leather.

We have these conversations every so often. If you do a search you will find a 2007 thread that pretty much thrashes it all out.

 

[galvestonokie]

for vintage mouton that is not too fluffy and long, try vintage mouton jackets on ebay. i have done this a few times with great results. you can find coats made of vintage mouton and not too expensive. just buy the coats, cut them up for the collar you need, using the old collar as a pattern. often you will have enough left over to sell on ebay and pay for all.

 

[galvestonokie]

ps. look for mouton jackets with about 3/4" fiber length.

 

[galvestonokie]

regarding reconditioning, you can try pecards, but i've never really liked it. try lexol or any leather conditioner, especially those intended for use with old vintage leather car seats. i prefer those that contain lanolin, since lanolin comes from sheep wool, and mouton is sheep wool from lambs.

 

[rocketeer]

And don't forget the unsung hero of the hour, my recommendation Ko Cho Line. I have been using it since the 1980s and no problems with 30 year old jackets and wartime 70+ year old A2s I still have.
Manufactured for use on bridles and saddles etc in the equestrian world with all that horse spit and sweat, so can't be that bad. And cheaper than a lot of those recommended for 'Vintage jackets'
Made in England but you can get it online.

regarding reconditioning, you can try pecards, but i've never really liked it. try lexol or any leather conditioner, especially those intended for use with old vintage leather car seats. i prefer those that contain lanolin, since lanolin comes from sheep wool, and mouton is sheep wool from lambs.

Mouton/beaver used on collars of original G1s etc is simply sheepskin that has had the GHD hair straighteners on it. Why not find an old 40-50s ladies coat cheap and chop it up for a nice collar with a bit of wear to it.
Cheers, J.

 

[Justhandguns]

I have used Pecard on a pretty stiff G-1 jacket from the early 70s' pretty successfully. I am not sure if it is goat or cow hide though since the tag has been removed. Pecard gives a little bit of shine and removes the dry stiffness of the ageing leather. I also have the Vanson condition lotion, but it does not give the same kind of coating as Pecard does.