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French Hats and makers.

TheOldFashioned

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,180
Location
The Great Lakes
A vented Tirard in chataigne (chestnut):
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Crown5-1/4" (open)
Brim2-1/2" with 5/16" overwelt
Ribbon1/2"
Weight94g

This hat came in the same lot as the Thibet listed above.
 
Last edited:
Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Motsch castor natural stingy brim fedora in a brown colour called Cuba. Size 57 with the overwelt brim at 5cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Excellent felt with a nice hand and very nicely finished. I have other hats with a 5cm brim which don't look and feel stingy, but this one does. It's just not the hat for me. Haven't tried to clean out the two spots in the ribbon yet.

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Alexwood

New in Town
Messages
23
I just bought a hat like this but in black, size 58, it has the same lining with the trademark, Madelios, on the leather headband it reads the same as yours but on the other side it says "SELECTION" but spelled sélection, there is also two letters AJ. I was looking in the headband which seems quite brittle in the thread area. I am trying to be careful not to tear the thread but I did find a size tag and part of another tag.
Mossant fedora in grey. More of a "camber" model really, which was quite popular in France. Colour is called "mine". Overwelt brim at 5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sold by Madelios of 10 Place the la Madeleine. Quite a high end menswear store, which closed its doors in 2010. Pics were taken when I got it yesterday. It has cleaned up nicely and has a better crease now.

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Alexwood

New in Town
Messages
23
My newest purchase, Madelios, Paris, bought it on FB Marketplace.
 

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Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Léon Gris Australien camber style hat by Mossant. Size 56 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Has some mothing unfortunately but it's still a nice wearable hat. The brim has that extremely fine lip on it that I've only seen on Léon hats. Weighs 120 grams.

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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
Second black hat bought during the horribly hot Italian summer.
Feltrex 1.jpg
It had been on sale for some time and no one offered, so I asked the seller for some clarification and here it is.
It is one of the types of hats that most fascinate me due to its shape and felt from the production of the 1920s and 1930s.
Feltrex 4.jpg
The felt is a wool blend with an interesting touch and that brightness that is typical of black blended felts.
Feltrex 3.jpg
The shape is the one called "Lord hat" with flat brims and raised at the edges. There are still stitches on the tape, but the sweatband is hard and not very malleable
Feltrex Interno totale.jpg
Feltrex size 58 or 7 1/4 in the USA. Sold in Cambrai - France
Feltrex marrocchino particolare.jpg
The brims are 6 centimeters, the open crown is 14 centimeters and the ribbon is 2.5 centimeters high.
Feltrex 2.jpg
I think it is a French product from the years mentioned above, or some felt imported from Germany or Central Europe
 

Alexwood

New in Town
Messages
23
Looks like itha
Mossant camber style hat for Brosson, Toulouse in a grey heather called Chiné Russe. Size 60 with the overwelt double stitched brim at 6cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Weighs 120 grams. Nice hand to the felt and an interesting style. I'm guessing forties.

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The felt looks like it has some brown flecks in the grey, nice colours and texture.
 

Alexwood

New in Town
Messages
23
Bowler, sold by Chappellerie des 4-8 of Bordeaux, France. Size 56 with the brim at 4,5 cm and the crown at 12cm. Weighs 140 grams. No label under the sweatband.
I don't need another bowler, but when I looked at the crown patch I just had to get it; cartoony and cute.


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I bought a 2013 Robert hall fur felt bowler, Magill hat manufactures in Montreal, Quebec, on FB because it was a great price, I am going to pick it up when we travel to Vancouver Island in November, unfortunately it is 60cm whereas I am a 56-57 cm. Might wear it big or resell it, I won't know until I get there to try it on.
 
Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Second black hat bought during the horribly hot Italian summer.
Feltrex 1.jpg
It had been on sale for some time and no one offered, so I asked the seller for some clarification and here it is.
It is one of the types of hats that most fascinate me due to its shape and felt from the production of the 1920s and 1930s.
Feltrex 4.jpg
The felt is a wool blend with an interesting touch and that brightness that is typical of black blended felts.
Feltrex 3.jpg
The shape is the one called "Lord hat" with flat brims and raised at the edges. There are still stitches on the tape, but the sweatband is hard and not very malleable
Feltrex Interno totale.jpg
Feltrex size 58 or 7 1/4 in the USA. Sold in Cambrai - France
Feltrex marrocchino particolare.jpg
The brims are 6 centimeters, the open crown is 14 centimeters and the ribbon is 2.5 centimeters high.
Feltrex 2.jpg
I think it is a French product from the years mentioned above, or some felt imported from Germany or Central Europe
Good looking hat, Daniele. French makers, especially in the later production years, often seem to have used lesser quality sweatbands.
 
Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Looks like itha

The felt looks like it has some brown flecks in the grey, nice colours and texture.
Thank you.

I bought a 2013 Robert hall fur felt bowler, Magill hat manufactures in Montreal, Quebec, on FB because it was a great price, I am going to pick it up when we travel to Vancouver Island in November, unfortunately it is 60cm whereas I am a 56-57 cm. Might wear it big or resell it, I won't know until I get there to try it on.
Due to how ubiquitous they were, there are loads of good bowler hats still to be found and in your size at good prices too. The difference in size is quite big between a 60 and a 57 to pull it off I think.
 
Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Listed as measured size 55 I took a chance. Measurements are unreliable (as we'll see later). How hard can it be though to look at a label and staing the size?
Au Chapeau d'Or velours hat in a size 54. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10,5 at the center dent. Au Chapeau d'Or was actually the retailer, but there's no label inside the hat. Very decent pre-war velour hat, but it took me a while to get it back to its original glory. Too bad about the size.

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Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Another one from the same retailer. Same problem. This one has the size label actually on the sweatband!
Bruas velours hat for Au Chapeau d'Or. Size 55 with the raw edge brim at 5,4cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Felt seems to have been made by Hukber (could also be Huleber) of Wien, Austria. It is the better felt of the the two. Really a quality velours. I could try and stretch it. but the leather has already shrunk somewhat and I have velour hats that fit me, so I don't need to.

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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
Third and last black hat bought this year
Morreton Homburg Nero 3.jpg
I left out the colored hats to dedicate myself to black in its variations for elegant European hats made before the Second World War or immediately after
Morreton Homburg Nero 5.jpg
I really like that period for the construction and finishes which are extremely accurate
Morreton Homburg Nero interno.jpg
Morreton Prelude, French made, "Qualitè de luxe" Imperméable (Waterproof)
Morreton Homburg Nero particolare.jpg
The size is 58 centimeters, or 7 1/4 in US. The felt is soft and extremely well finished
Morreton Homburg Nero 4.jpg
The shape is classic for homburgs of that period.
The measurements are the gathered brims are 6 centimetres, the ribbon is 4 centimetres, the crown fully open is 12.5 centimetres
Morreton Homburg Nero 2.jpg
Lightweight and unlined, it is the perfect mid-season homburg.
 
Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Third and last black hat bought this year
Morreton Homburg Nero 3.jpg
I left out the colored hats to dedicate myself to black in its variations for elegant European hats made before the Second World War or immediately after
Morreton Homburg Nero 5.jpg
I really like that period for the construction and finishes which are extremely accurate
Morreton Homburg Nero interno.jpg
Morreton Prelude, French made, "Qualitè de luxe" Imperméable (Waterproof)
Morreton Homburg Nero particolare.jpg
The size is 58 centimeters, or 7 1/4 in US. The felt is soft and extremely well finished
Morreton Homburg Nero 4.jpg
The shape is classic for homburgs of that period.
The measurements are the gathered brims are 6 centimetres, the ribbon is 4 centimetres, the crown fully open is 12.5 centimetres
Morreton Homburg Nero 2.jpg
Lightweight and unlined, it is the perfect mid-season homburg.
Very attractive homburg, Daniele.
 
Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Really thought this was going to be a smaller size, but surprises happen. Sold as a "Cicarc", which is a risk you're taking as a hat manufacturer if you're going to be too fancy with the lettering on your hats. Bronnold is another brand that comes to mind in that regard.

Tirard Chiné fedora in heather grey. Size 60 with the raw edge brim at 6cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Lovely hand to the felt and at 111 grams not a heavy felt by any means. It is an earlier one, though I don't think as early as the Tirard Frères one. Forties maybe?
This one has already been spoken for.


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