French Cuff Puzzle

[Not-Bogart13]

OK, I just purchased my first shirt with a french cuff. I know, I know... about time, right. Now, I see that there is one hole for the cuff links on the outer cuff, but two on the inner part. ANybody know what that's about? Why is that there? The holes don't seem to be to adjust size, so I'm lost.

 

[AlanC]

If it's what I think they are then they are there to adjust length. What brand shirt did you buy? I know that both Thomas Pink and Charles Tyrwhitt shirts have this feature, probably some others.

 

[Not-Bogart13]

Just a Van Heusen. If it's for length adjustment, it's kind of silly. The holes are so close, it would only make about 1/4 inch difference (or less). Plus, the cuffs are pre-folded and pressed to the current length.

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Depending upon how exacting your fit requirements are, 1/4" can make a difference. Another reason for having this arrangement, however, is that by using the two sets of buttonholes to vary the position of the fold of the cuff you can either spread the wear at the fold or hide wear that has already happened, thereby extending the life of the shirt. Also bear in mind that although the cuff may come pre-folded, this will not last past its first wash.

 

[TraderRic]

If the shirt size is marked with a variable sleeve length (16 34/35) then it is to adjust the length. In my experience it is neither a 34 nor a 35, but a "close enough". You'll find which brand suits you best. It may take several shirts to find the brand you like best. Many formal (tuxedo) shirts also have this feature.

 

[DerMann]

I had a Geoffrey Beane shirt which had the same holes.

Absolutely hated that shirt, bleeding 65% polyester 35% cotton blend. Never was able to wear it with a tie because it would chafe my neck terribly (it would feel as if I had shaved not only without water but with a rusty disposable razor).

The shirt lasted a month before I found out Landsend overstock carried double cuffed shirts in exact sizes, 100% supima cotton for less than I had paid for the one Geoffrey Beane shirt.

 

[Anthony Jordan]

fftopic: DerMann, I seem to recognise your signature - could you remind me where it is from? Is it "Murder by Death"?

 

[Lulu-in-Ny]

fftopic: DerMann, I seem to recognise your signature - could you remind me where it is from? Is it "Murder by Death"?

I was just going to comment on that! Great movie; infinitely quotable...
Sam Diamond: I'll be around if you need me. All you gotta do is whistle, and you know how to whistle, don't ya, baby?
Tess Skeffington: Certainly. What do you mean? I don't understand you...
Sam Diamond: All right, never mind. Forget it. You ruined it.

 

[DerMann]

fftopic: DerMann, I seem to recognise your signature - could you remind me where it is from? Is it "Murder by Death"?

Quite right sir, just watched it this morning(?) and I absolutely loved it. That quote made me laugh so hard I nearly toppled my tea pot. Thought it would make a good signature

David Niven says it after he comments on the seating arrangement of the dinner table, and just barely dodges a sabre to the head.

 

[Not-Bogart13]

Depending upon how exacting your fit requirements are, 1/4" can make a difference. Another reason for having this arrangement, however, is that by using the two sets of buttonholes to vary the position of the fold of the cuff you can either spread the wear at the fold or hide wear that has already happened, thereby extending the life of the shirt. Also bear in mind that although the cuff may come pre-folded, this will not last past its first wash.

This makes sense to me, given hoe close the holes are.

If the fold comes out in the wash, should I press it back in, or leave it alone?

 

[Not-Bogart13]

If the shirt size is marked with a variable sleeve length (16 34/35) then it is to adjust the length. In my experience it is neither a 34 nor a 35, but a "close enough". You'll find which brand suits you best. It may take several shirts to find the brand you like best. Many formal (tuxedo) shirts also have this feature.

Well, I won't know how comfortable it is until I wear it, but I like the cut, the neck is generous (a rarity for me) and the sleeves aren't insanely long (also rare for me).

 

[DerMann]

This makes sense to me, given hoe close the holes are.

If the fold comes out in the wash, should I press it back in, or leave it alone?

Double cuffs are not pressed down, old horse. One presses double cuffs the same way one presses barrel and single cuffs. You straighten out the cuffs so that they are at full length (not folded over), and press and starch them as such. After that, they are rolled backwards to give a more natural roll to them.

Nobody likes sharp creases on their cuffs :\

 

[univibe88]

Double cuffs are not pressed down, old horse. One presses double cuffs the same way one presses barrel and single cuffs. You straighten out the cuffs so that they are at full length (not folded over), and press and starch them as such. After that, they are rolled backwards to give a more natural roll to them.

Nobody likes sharp creases on their cuffs :\

Please forward this info to my dry cleaner. 8 out of 10 times my shirts come back with the cuffs pressed folded over. It drives me nuts.

 

[anon`]

Please forward this info to my dry cleaner. 8 out of 10 times my shirts come back with the cuffs pressed folded over. It drives me nuts.

I think it's time to find a new dry cleaner! I'm ecstatic that I've found one who not only presses double cuffs flat and not folded on the rare event I bring a shirt to them, but they will also unroll a lapel before pressing it! No longer must I contend with a flattened roll and unwanted crease!

 

[DerMann]

Heh, luckily my cleaners always get it right. What they don't get right, however, are my sportjackets. They always mess up on the lapels on my linen jacket and make them super narrow, or press my navy blazer too hard so there is a crease at the lapels.

On the subject of pressing cuffs, my mother cannot press single cuffs, she just completely flattens them, with a sharp crease (these are heavily starched as part of a formal shirt) on the top and bottom of the wrist.

If you want something done right, you have to get it done yourself :\

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Thanks for the confirmation! From your avatar, do I deduce that you are also an aficionado of The Chap magazine...?

Not-Bogart, some advocate pressing the fold back in, but I do not for the reason that DerMann has given.

 

[Not-Bogart13]

I knew this was the right place to bring this stuff up. The shirt I bought is machine washable, so I'll be able to control what gets pressed and what doesn't. I hate creases where they don't belong. :rage: I'm going to get one of those sleeve arms for my ironing board (as per Classic Style #5's advice !), so that should make things easier.

 

[BegintheBeguine]

Much easier. I also find I use it to do touch-up ironing when I don't want to unfold the big old ironing board down from the wall.
I like a man who can do his own ironing.

 

[DerMann]

Thanks for the confirmation! From your avatar, do I deduce that you are also an aficionado of The Chap magazine...?

Not-Bogart, some advocate pressing the fold back in, but I do not for the reason that DerMann has given.

A few years ago a British friend of mine linked me to The Chap, and I thought it was simply marvelous.

I never subscribed due to the rather steep fee for foreigners (some $40 per year for four magazines). However, I did find my way onto the Sheridan Club, and still post there fairly regularly.

On the subject of cuffs (so as to not be completely off topic), I assume it means the shirt is made out of poor quality materials when after the starch starts to fade from the cuffs of shirt they begin to look fuzzy. Also, the cuffs in question are very thin. They don't starch very well, and as a result they often develop creases even after an hour or so of wear.

 

[Not-Bogart13]

I like a man who can do his own ironing.

I iron, cook, do laundry, go food shopping - heck, I even bathe!!! lol