Formality; Single-breasted vs. Double-breasted suits

[George A.Bailey]

Along with a higher rise I'd add reverse pleats, seam pockets and fishtail back.

I've never been a huge fan of fishtail backs, as braces are not always a part of my daily attire (and of course I believe it would look ridiculous if worn without them.)

 

[Tomasso]

I've never been a huge fan of fishtail backs, as braces are not always a part of my daily attire (and of course I believe it would look ridiculous if worn without them.)

As I said, YMMV.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

YMMV = "Your Mirage May Tarry."


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[AntonAAK]

If you are looking to emulate the Wooster suit in the photo the waistcoat lapels are peaked, not shawl. I personally think this would look better with your peaked lapel jacket.

 

[Richard Warren]

Nice looking suit and some good comments.


In the context of today I would not call it either formal or conservative.

 

[George A.Bailey]

If you are looking to emulate the Wooster suit in the photo the waistcoat lapels are peaked, not shawl. I personally think this would look better with your peaked lapel jacket.

You're probably right. No doubt peak lapeled waistcoats are more common as well.

 

[Richard Warren]

Though I am far from expert, I think a peaked lapel waistcoat would be an anomaly. What would be the point (no pun intended?). Even with a peaked lapel dinner jacket, the waistcoat is shawl collared.

 

[GBR]

I don't believe that there is any distinction in formality between double and single breasted suits. Any such distinction is drawn by the shirt accompanying it - white is probably the most formal - even if over done by so many wearing them routinely - and colours less so.

Don't skimp on any made to measure. It is capable of last a very long time and you should get something that you like and have specced properly. There are still a few small one man tailors in Leeds and Bradford who should be able to a good job for you.

 

[GBR]

A rough idea as to what my suit will look like, I've tried to add most of the minor details (ignore the vertical lines down both sides of the jacket, that's a mistake):

A very good start.

You should give careful thought to the rise of the trousers' Many will advocate a fishtail back and braces though these can be restrictive - so a DAKS style self supporting trouser would be a good compromise to make waist coat and trousers meet. Pleats are also sensible.

Think also about trouser pockets and inner jacket pockets - you can get what you want now. A fob pocket (or a bigger one as was once commonplace in the UK for your wallet) and two back pockets for the trousers (flaps at your choice I would suggest) as well as additional inner pockets beyond the normal four to cope with modern day life.

 

[AntonAAK]

Though I am far from expert, I think a peaked lapel waistcoat would be an anomaly. What would be the point (no pun intended?). Even with a peaked lapel dinner jacket, the waistcoat is shawl collared.

They may not be to your taste but they are certainly no anomoly. Peaked lapels were common on DB waistcoats in the thirties. See the Wooster suit in this thread or Magnoli's Fairbanks suit for examples of how they look. I really like them.

 

[Richard Warren]

Again, not trying to say anything I don't know, but that theatrical costume and Mr. Magnoli's product, as good as it may be, are not examples of actual period suits. Peaked lapels on vests which are not intended to be seen seems to me superfluous and a little bit, well, excessive.

By all means, get what you like.

 

[George A.Bailey]

They may not be to your taste but they are certainly no anomoly. Peaked lapels were common on DB waistcoats in the thirties. See the Wooster suit in this thread or Magnoli's Fairbanks suit for examples of how they look. I really like them.

I have to agree with you on that. I've been looking at lot's of DB waistcoats recently, and most of them do indeed sport peaked lapels, which I seem to have grown very fond of in the last week or so.

 

[George A.Bailey]

Peaked lapels on vests which are not intended to be seen seems to me superfluous and a little bit, well, excessive.

Well, there are plently of things about suits which could be deemed as "superfluos" (non-functional sleeve buttons, sewing on 2 or 3 front buttons when only 1 is supposed to be fastened anyway).

It's just part of the style I suppose. It's only this week that I've just started going off the idea of having shawl lapels on any part of a suit as a matter of fact.

 

[HHISIII]

And I have not seen (on a retailer's rack) or owned a double breasted tux, suit, or sports coat for decades.

Armani has plenty in nearly every season's offerings.
I have a nice herringbone double breasted Armani that I wear as a sport coat quite frequently.

 

[Undertow]

Again, not trying to say anything I don't know, but that theatrical costume and Mr. Magnoli's product, as good as it may be, are not examples of actual period suits. Peaked lapels on vests which are not intended to be seen seems to me superfluous and a little bit, well, excessive.

You may consider browsing through an excellent resource posted by Marc HERE:
The BIG Sticky

I think you'll note most waistcoats have no apparent collar, while others range from shawl to notch. However, if you look closely, there are examples of DB vests with peak lapels throughout the material.

Much of what makes style so appealing tends to be a bit "superfluous". Why should a gentleman wear suspenders of any color but black? No one will see them, especially not with a high-waist trouser and vest covering everything. But it is the elegant set of vanilla suspenders with candy red stripes that accents a gentleman's outfit so well, even if seen by the gentleman alone.

Again, I suggest peeking through that sticky; there are a number of excellent examples of '30's outfits.

 

[Hap Hapablap]

I have been considering my next suit to be like the aforementioned; similar to the Bertie Wooster one. Does anyone have photo reference of how much vest would show above the gorge of a closed jacket?

 

[AntonAAK]

I have been considering my next suit to be like the aforementioned; similar to the Bertie Wooster one. Does anyone have photo reference of how much vest would show above the gorge of a closed jacket?

Try as I might I can't find a single photo reference or scene in the show where he wears this suit with the jacket buttoned. I guess the idea was to show off the snazzy waistcoat...

Apologies for the very large image but it probably shows off best how much waistcoat would show if he did close the jacket.

A

 

[Lokar]

I feel I should point out that you probably mean the buttoning point - the gorge is where the collar meets the lapel (where the step or point is).

I believe the general rule is that you should not show much waistcoat when buttoned - wearing a vintage high-buttoning waistcoat with a modern low-buttoning coat looks rather silly. On the last photo of Hugh Laurie you can see that you'd not see much of the waistcoat if the coat was buttoned - you'd mostly just see the waistcoat's lapels.

The fourth photo AntonAAK posted shows this quite well.

 

[Hap Hapablap]

Thanks, gentlemen!

 

[Tomasso]

I feel I should point out that you probably mean the buttoning point - the gorge is where the collar meets the lapel(where the step or point is).

Yes, this may be the most common error in basic terminology in all of menswear.