Formal Wear Primer

[vintage.vendeuse]

I'm hoping for assistance in pinning down the decade of this Lion of Troy dress shirt. Black Tie Guide has a couple photos of a "Lion Brand" shirt that seems similar but I can't make them big enough (with enough definition) to see if it's the same shirt. They attribute their shirt to the 1900s. That website also states dress shirts that buttoned down the back were introduced in the 1890s, were the predominant choice in the 1930s, and were manufactured into the 1960s. As you can see, this shirt came with two Arrow DeLuxe collars from Cluett, Peabody, and Co. Inc.

The shirt is heavily starched and has some yellowing in places. I'd love to give it a soak and then take it to a local dry cleaner for professional laudering and pressing... will I ruin it if I do that?

Thanks!

 

[Nick D]

Sanforization was patented in 1930, so that gives you a hard earliest date.

 

[esteban68]

I found this shawl lapel tuxedo earlier this week, condition is absolutely immaculate and fit is excellent less the normal getting trousers and sleeves shortened a little.
Facings are crosgrain silk, inside pockets are heavy-ish black or white cotton, no labels save the remnant of a blue? one inside the right inside pocket, rear of trousers are slightly notched/vee backed, button fly and supressed waist to jacket.

 

[esteban68]

one more of the jacket;

and the trousers which have inwards facing double pleats and watch/fob pocket and a high back coming above the small of my back;

waist band is white silk type material with white cotton pocket linings, again no labels.

 

[Luftwaffles]

With the exception of the pretied bow tie, I have everything needed for my White Tie getup!

 

[Cobden]

A bit of a diversion from evening dress. My morning coat ensemble from my recentish wedding (hopefully this will work)




Meant to show the buttonhole, but shows the elements very well. That and my dandruff...

 

[Two Types]

That looks like a genuine silk top hat.

 

[Cobden]

It is indeed. It had been sitting in an Oxford vintage clothing shop (one that is renowned for being overpriced) for a few years, not being sold. Every year, thousands have descended upon it during Ascot season, but it fit none of them. Then I, a man lacking somewhat in cranial girth (only 6 3/4 to 6 7/8), put it on and it was like Cinderella's slipper. It was still overpiced, but having seen how much my now wife paid for her dress, I felt it was worth spending money on an excellent hat.

The coat is German, 1930's. The trousers and waistcoat British, of the same era. Tie is American, 1940s (a lucky Etsy find), shirt Luxire, collar Luke Eyres. Slip is self made.

 

[Hap Hapablap]

Here I am at my installation as Worshipful Master of my lodge, wearing a vintage Dutch top hat, vintage glasses, vintage stud set (including vest studs), new barathea bow tie, new Darcy stiff fronted shirt, new Duchess Clothier black tie ensemble (with custom brocade waistcoat, not shown) and of course the jewel of my office. Sorry for the link. Not sure how to post pics correctly.

http://instagram.com/p/wO9iugKpdj/?modal=true

 

[Hap Hapablap]

Forgot to mention the Darcy "Poirot-style" butterfly stiff wing collar!

 

[Hap Hapablap]

I have noticed lately on Downton Abbey that the butler and 1st footman wear their stiff-fronted shirts buttoned like a woman (right breast over left, per the wearer's view). Is this something that the "help" would do to distinguish themselves from the guests (similar to wearing black tie and waistcoat with tails) or is it a mistake of the costume dept.?

 

[Luftwaffles]

Got a new dinner jacket today!

 

[davidg]

Very nice Worshipful!

 

[Mormonopoly]

I had the most incredible formal wear score at the thrift store yesterday. 5 formal jackets, all 1930s/40s, all in fantastic condition.
1940s Midnight Blue Tuxedo Jacket. Absolutely flawless. I paid $2.

 

[davidg]

Do they fit?

 

[Mormonopoly]

1930s Jacket with tails. Missing one cuff button, but otherwise perfect. I paid $3.

 

[Mormonopoly]

1933-35 Morning Coat. Some very slight wear to the fabric colored buttons, but otherwise flawless. I paid $9.

 

[Mormonopoly]

1930s Uniform Jacket. New with tags. A few tiny moth nips/nicks, but otherwise fantastic. I paid $9.

 

[Mormonopoly]

Finally, 1920s/30s Morning coat. New with tags. Absolutely flawless and incredible.

 

[Mormonopoly]

Do they fit?

Two of them do, but I think I'll probably end up selling them.