Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Formal Wear Primer

esteban68

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,107
Location
Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England
I bought this 'Tuxedo' last week for a song from a local charity shop, it's almost a perfect fit and had no holes or nips anywhere I can find so it's a keeper...any guesses as to it's age?
xqcoj7.jpg
so1hrs.jpg

2n16gex.jpg
217oua.jpg

2s8h4le.jpg


The jacket is fairly heavy cloth, it is unvented and appears to be lined with fairly thick satin or silk? it four sleeve buttons and four larger but matching on the front, cross grain lapels, jetted pockets, it's also not very long just covering my backside.
 
Last edited:

esteban68

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,107
Location
Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England
The trousers are full cut/high waisted/ button fly with waist adjusters, one rear jetted pocket, two front pockets and also a small front watch pocket, fitted with brace buttons.....waistband lining appears to be silk?;
1dys01.jpg
2pp0q5k.jpg

2ro6lv6.jpg
296hsg4.jpg

rear pocket on right side
5b366d.jpg
 
Last edited:

esteban68

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,107
Location
Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England
Yes it does, also just single inwards facing pleats on the trousers if that helps?

I tried to find out about the tailor but alas no joy there although the shop/s is still there but is now a very nice 'Chinese' restaurant, incidentaly the charity shop where I bought it was less than 100 yards away from where it was made...I doubt it's been worn more than a couple of times.
 
Last edited:

esteban68

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,107
Location
Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England
I 've sent the trousers to my seamstress, I got to thinking that I would like a waistcoat to wear with it mainly because I know that at some point when I wear it I will remove the jacket and the trousers being high cut would look better with an appropriate waistcoat.
And I know with DB's generally jackets are kept on but I am being realistic as when jiving etc I would get rather warm with a mid weight wool jacket!

So taking that on board which would be 'correct' and what colour then all I have to do is find one or if I can get some vintage cloth get one made up???
 

Cobden

Practically Family
Messages
788
Location
Oxford, UK
I tend to wear a cummerbind with mine (which is very similar to yours), though that's more for when unbuttoning the jacket, as I don't remove the jacket unless the young lady I am with gets cold...
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
@esteban
As it has pronounced waist surpression, it is more solidly late-30's to 40's, and less likely early 50's.
A DB black tie is not worn with anything but the trousers and shirt. No waistcoat and no cummerbund. These are for SB only.
If you wear nothing below the shirt, it does not become too hot... Personally I would not take off the jacket - if I bother wearing proper (and vintage) black tie, then I do it correctly.
But modern facilities with excessive heating can be an issue for sure. But a light shirt will go a far way.
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
For "1930-40's standards" it is very clear-cut: DB black tie without waistcoat or cummerbund. Every tailoring/fashion publication of that time that I know of dealing with this topic mentions this.
Makes no sense either, as they would be additional layers with minimal visibility/effect. The DB tux is all about comfort while maintaining proper elegance/formality. It was thus ok to be worn with lay-down collars and softer shirts.
 
Last edited:

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
Very nice suit. The label suggests to me 1950s rather than earlier. Not that it makes any difference.

I wouldn't wear a waistcoat with a double breasted dinner suit: you will get too warm too soon. Just wear it with a jacket and if it gets warm later, take off jacket - by that time no one else will care. Chances are, with a suit like that, you'll still be the best dressed man in the room.
 

Gin&Tonics

Practically Family
Messages
899
Location
The outer frontier
May I ask when is/was the appropriate time for a frock suit? What should be worn with it?

I know this is super old, but my passionate ardor for all things Victorian forces me to reply to this question - a frock suit (or just the coat with separate trousers) was the Victorian (and stretching back into the Regency period) equivalent of the modern informal suit. It was the ordinary day wear for a gentleman. It would never EVER be worn for a formal event in the evening. For evening wear, they had the white tie and tails (black tie hadn't been invented yet) and for formal day events, the morning attire (with cutaway coat, waistcoat usually in grey or cream, and grey striped trousers)

In short, you may wear a frock suit or coat anywhere and anytime an informal suit would be acceptable. In fact, I heartily encourage it, because I love frock coats and find them extremely elegant when cut properly! :D
 

Big Man

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,781
Location
Nebo, NC
We'll be going on a trip to Charleston, SC in August with my son and his wife. While there, we'll be eating one night at High Cotton. I thought it would be the perfect time to wear a white dinner jacket. What are this group's thoughts on the following with an off-white dinner jacket:

1) Fold-down or stand-up collar white shirt with the black bow tie?

2) Black vest (matching the black pants) or black cummerbund?
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
If fold down collar take the cummerbund. Stand-up collar with vest.

Since the white jacket is a bit more informal I'd take the fold down with cummerbund.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,097
Messages
3,074,090
Members
54,091
Latest member
toptvsspala
Top