Formal Wear Primer

[Hap Hapablap]

I believe that the modern protocol for formal wear came about in the early 20th century. Prior to that, you see a lot of anachronisms that seem to have been phased out by the 1910's. I guess it's like buttoning the bottom button of your waistcoat: what era are you wanting to emulate? Also, I think it looks best to follow outdated anachronisms IN period clothing. Like, if you are going to button the bottom button of your waistcoat, it should be in a 1890's style.

 

[Alon]

What if I'm just going to the opera and don't want to look like a maitre d'?

 

[Bugsy]

What if I'm just going to the opera and don't want to look like a maitre d'?

To me, dressing in formal clothes also requires being able to wear them properly and with confidence. Using accessories such as colored pocket silks, waistcoats, etc., will definitely get you out of the realm of the maitre d'. It's important that you wear clothes in which your comfortable. Dress for the occasion in a way that you are comfortable, and then enjoy the evening. Let us know what you decide. and take some photos.

 

[Charlie Huang]

What if I'm just going to the opera and don't want to look like a maitre d'?

I would check first if there is a dress code and follow that. The safest bet is on black tie (I would not wear white tie unless others are wearing it as well).

 

[dhermann1]

For the opera nowadays you only need a suit and tie. You could wear black tie for a gala or something like that.
I guarantee that you will see people there in jeans and sneakers. If you do, give them a good smack for me.

 

[WH1]

As I understand it nowadays the only time you wear black tie to Opera is on opening night or for a special performance. Last year my wife and I attended a performance at the Met (not opening night but a special performance for my wife and I). We were the only ones in formal clothing, as noted many were in jeans and running shoes including the NY District judge and his wife sharing the box with us. The people in the box next to us were all in suit and tie with the ladies in cocktail dresses. There was also one gentleman who I can only speculate was wearing a Michael Jackson tribute uniform or was an Eastern European Uhlan officer.
We recently attended a performance of Bluebeards Castle and most of the men were in suits or Navy blazers and the women were in semi-formal dresses. I wore a Navy Chalkstripe double breasted suit, white shirt and macclesfield tie.

 

[dhermann1]

I have to mention my experience in Munich a few years ago. The Germans are still a lot more formal and proper than we are here in the states. Everyone at the opera was dressed to the nines. No tuxes, but all in dark suits and ties (no sports jackets and ties, just suits). And the women were all stunningly got up.
And the food at intermission was to die for. No mass produced chocolate chip cookies and bags of M&M's and plastic bottles of water, like you get even at Carnegie Hall. No, they had fresh baked tarts and cakes and strudels, with delicious coffee and champagne on china plates and crystal flute glasses. Ohhhh . . . . man.

 

[WH1]

I have to mention my experience in Munich a few years ago. The Germans are still a lot more formal and proper than we are here in the states. Everyone at the opera was dressed to the nines. No tuxes, but all in dark suits and ties (no sports jackets and ties, just suits). And the women were all stunningly got up.
And the food at intermission was to die for. No mass produced chocolate chip cookies and bags of M&M's and plastic bottles of water, like you get even at Carnegie Hall. No, they had fresh baked tarts and cakes and strudels, with delicious coffee and champagne on china plates and crystal flute glasses. Ohhhh . . . . man.

Sounds like a wonderful time, what performances did you attend?

 

[Midnight Blue]

I have a question about the possibility of mix & matching. Below is a photo of the illustrious composer Tschaikovsky. As you can see he is wearing a formal evening jacket, black vest, but a white bow tie. I think the combination is fetching. But I wonder, in our era of strict adherence to protocol (of course I jest, our era is nothing of the sort, but among us bastions of good taste and formal elegance) can such a thing be done?

Wearing a white bow tie with Black Tie has been taboo since the 1920s. To the experienced man you will look like a novice experimenting with a tuxedo for the first time.

 

[dhermann1]

What I saw in Munich:
Richard Strauss's Arabella, and Mozart's Abduction from the Seraglio. Total fun. Oh, and on the same trip, Don Carlo in ZAGREB.
OK, back to our topic.

 

[Charlie Huang]

Finally managed to get the time to start making a DB white evening waistcoat. Today I have made a mock-up out of scrap cloth to test my pattern for accuracy before cutting the marcella:

Note that I have tweaked the waistcoat a bit since the above photos were taken to correct a few flaws (such as the wide opening at the top which I have sorted out by taking in at the back, etc). The fit now is very good so I'll start to cut the actual marcella soon.

 

[dnjan]

Looks good, but am curious why no watch pocket and buttonhole?
Not proper for a DB waistcoat?

 

[Charlie Huang]

I don't really understand what you are saying...

There are to be pockets on the waistcoat proper (you can see the outlines of them chalked in the first picture; it would be a waste of time and energy putting them into this mock-up that will be thrown in the bin afterwards anyway). Buttonhole? Well there are cuts for where they all go (I wouldn't have been able to use the studs without them to check my buttonhole alignments) or do you mean lapel buttonhole (in which case it would be a redundant and illogical addition as it will never be used).

Also, I wear my pocket watch on a ribbon fob that is put into the trouser waistband pocket.

 

[dnjan]

OK. I missed them in the picture. Now that you pointed them out, I see them. And by buttonhole, I was refering to the buttonhole for the T-bar. But, as you say, since you use a ribbon fob, a buttonhole for the T-bar would not be needed.

Waiting to see the finished product.

 

[Peter_E]

I think using a buttoniere to accent your dinner ensemble was and still is common.
I tend to see roses and carnations the most, and in England, the poppy is very popular.

I realize I am very late in commenting on this. I only just read this post. Sorry if someone else picked up on this already.

But ... The poppy is worn in England in the few weeks leading up to November 11. It is a mark of respect for the fallen soldiers, initially from WW-1 but now also from WW-2. It is not a trite boutonnière.

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.

 

[Charlie Huang]

OK. I missed them in the picture. Now that you pointed them out, I see them. And by buttonhole, I was refering to the buttonhole for the T-bar. But, as you say, since you use a ribbon fob, a buttonhole for the T-bar would not be needed.

Waiting to see the finished product.

A buttonhole for a T-bar would have to be hidden by adding a central seam where a small vertical opening is allowed (or you could just slip the T-bar in one of the stud buttonholes like on any other DB waistcoat).

 

[Charlie Huang]

Progress: the fabric is cut and bits sewn. Pockets and lapels done.

 

[le.gentleman]

Looks great! How much time do you think it will take to finish it?

 

[Charlie Huang]

I've almost finished. Today I sewn the front linings on and attached the back.

Just need to get the buttonholes in, install the buckle, sew on the stud hole flaps then tidy things up a bit. It should be done by Tuesday if not tomorrow night.

 

[Charlie Huang]

More pics, this time modelling the waistcoat to test for fit: