Formal Wear Primer

[Lokar]

If you're willing to pay a little more, you should keep an eye on http://www.savvyrow.co.uk/collections/types?q=Morning+Tailcoats - they might get exactly what you're looking for.

 

[Charlie Huang]

Savvy Row is quite expensive but some of they're stuff is good.

Very well, then...

I like the looks of this one. I don't know on what basis the seller decided that it's from the '30s or '40s, but at the very least, it seems to be constructed properly. The length appears about right, and while the sleeves are a bit long, that shouldn't be a problem as long as the buttons are applied rather than working.

That said, there's the issue of chest size. I'm pretty much exactly a 37, so I'll need to do something about that. (Incidentally, a Japanese size-A5 RTW tailcoat fits me pretty exactly, except that new ones are ridiculously expensive and Japanese people don't do "used" nearly as much as overseas.) The same tailor who vetoed any possibility of saving the last tailcoat nevertheless indicated that he'd be able to take in the 38"chest by mucking about with the sidebodies, but what do you think?

That tailcoat looks acceptable. As per alterations, you need to try it on before making considerations. Tailcoats are best made bespoke as they are meant to fit the body; the construction makes this so. Taking in 1" is better than taking in 2". It should be possible. Again, it will have to be done on the back seams: one will have to take in the two curved seams and then take in the vent seams. Still a tricky and time consuming job though.

What I would do is get a 36 chest and see if that is tight enough.

 

[Charlie Huang]

What I recently wore:

 

[Orgetorix]

What was the occasion, Charlie?

 

[Charlie Huang]

Cambridge trip. I attended the degree Congregation at Senate House which included a behind-the-scenes tour with one of the Pro-Proctors.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=159523&id=688147062&l=6480aae57a

 

[Bugsy]

What I recently wore:

ABSOLUTELY FLAWLESS!!

 

[Djupis]

What I recently wore:

Nice! :eusa_clap

 

[MisterGrey]

What I recently wore:

Duuuude, lookin' sharp!

 

[fluteplayer07]

Couple of questions...

A bit fftopic: , but, is it acceptable to wear an Homburg with tails? Or should I invest in a silk top hat or opera hat? And stiff front shirts are correct for white tie?

Thanks,
flute

 

[Cobden]

A bit fftopic: , but, is it acceptable to wear an Homburg with tails? Or should I invest in a silk top hat or opera hat? And stiff front shirts are correct for white tie?

Thanks,
flute

I've read somewhere a black stiff Homburg is acceptable only if the situation means that a top hat is impractical, such as travelling on the underground or in a low roofed car

 

[Tomasso]

a top hat is impractical, such as travelling on the underground or in a low roofed car

lol

 

[Charlie Huang]

You should get an opera hat. That is correct and solves the impracticality question as well.

 

[anon`]

You should get an opera hat. That is correct and solves the impracticality question as well.

Something far easier said than done, for many of us.

 

[MisterGrey]

Something far easier said than done, for many of us.

Ditto. Barring an eBay miracle, you're looking at triple-digits for a new or even good-condition vintage hat. On the other hand, a decent wool topper can be had for under $50. If you're not planning on wearing it that often-- especially if you're only planning on wearing it once-- it's much more practical from a financial standpoint to go with the less expensive option.

 

[Cobden]

Plus, I'm not sure one is supposed to wear an opera hat in a collapsed state

 

[Charlie Huang]

Well, you're suppose to collapse it before getting on your carriage or when indoors at the cloakroom and uncollapse and wear it at other times.

On the other hand, a decent wool topper can be had for under $50.

I would advise against unless you're a funeral director...

It has to be silk, fur melusine or a collapsible. Besides, a homburg is still a bit impractical itself. If you want practicality, go hatless.

 

[dnjan]

Plus, I'm not sure one is supposed to wear an opera hat in a collapsed state

If you have collapsed, I hope that somebody will take your hat off and loosen your tie and collar so that you can revive.

 

[MisterGrey]

I would advise against unless you're a funeral director...

It has to be silk, fur melusine or a collapsible. Besides, a homburg is still a bit impractical itself. If you want practicality, go hatless.

How many people today are going to look at someone wearing a wool top hat and ask for a casket price list?

Many of us would like to don a topper but simply have not got the financial resources to purchase something higher grade than wool.

 

[Lokar]

How much would people be willing to pay for silk top hats? In the last year I think I've probably seen 15-20 silk plush top hats, ranging in size from 55cm to 59cm (US 6 7/8 to US 7 3/8). The most expensive was $62, but I bought mine (59cm) for $18. Shipping might be a problem (potential damage to the hat? I'd have no idea how to safely pack a topper), and it's a bit on the expensive side in Sweden, but I'd be willing to post any I find at no profit for myself..

Actually, let me check how much postage would cost (I can use my topper for dimensions and weight etc.), and then I'll start a thread or something. Can see what sizes I should keep my eye open for, etc. Carry on for now.

 

[Charlie Huang]

Most wool toppers I've seen are of a quality so low that one can spot them a mile away; only suitable for fancy dress and for fancy dress is the situation I see most of these wool toppers in as they are cheap to buy.

I do not see why that many people on this forum could fork out a lot of money for a good quality (and sometimes bespoke) fur felt hat yet cannot afford even a decent fur melusine topper and opt for the lowest quality. My thinking is that if the hat is of low quality then one should not buy it at all; rather save up for one that is decent than get an inferior product which you would have to replace. If you have gotten together your white tie or morning dress ensemble to perfection and detail, why spoil it with a topper quality that clearly does not meet the bill; to display a masterpiece painting in a cheapo frame?

I do understand people may have budget issues but one rather got hatless than waste money on what really is a poor substitute.