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Flattering laces flat: A tail of strapping on your shoes with a touch of panache

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
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10,045
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A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
Through history there have been silk laces, flat cotton laces, waxed flat cotton laces, flat nylon laces, round laces with a nylon core and much much more… Oh and buckles too. When I started wearing dress shoes several years back. The primary lace sold in stores for the plain black or brown dress shoe was the plain black or brown round waxed cotton shoelace that usually had a nylon core for strength. Now, they are fine for shoes… always in style, but for me they just don’t have that certain sense of … well you know, retro grandpa chic that’s just a little unique and what the general masses aren’t wearing. I’m not too eccentric with my wears, but I do like to tweak the details to just a little more outside the box of the regular guy in a suit and tie

A return to the flat, waxed cotton shoelace

I was quite enamored with old shoe ads in Esquire and Life magazines from the 1930s and absolutely had to emulate the look. Clean, dashing, flat and different were the laces on shoes style that were common for the last 100 years. When I decided to change up my style to match the laces I saw in the old ads, I found it was quite the challenge. Flat laces had just fallen out of style. I can guess why with my own experiences; through time, trial and error with different laces.

Flat laces that are all cotton tend to break down a lot faster than the current issue round lace with nylon core. In the early 1950s the US military kept with flat laces that were made of nylon for a short time for dress shoe wear, but those laces tend to just slide out of their knots so the US military also followed the public and went to the round cotton with nylon core laces.

But I still wanted the classic flat waxed all cotton, and… well they were damned hard to find. I’d frequent the South Coast Plaza mall and order special make Allen Edmonds now and again and constantly ask there about such laces, and at the Alden shop and check online and everywhere else that looked like they’d have an inkling of classic cobbling to their works until I walked into a John Lobb shoe store. They had the laces on their shoes and right there and then I asked to buy a handful of brown and black flat laces.

I’ve gone through all those laces as they do break rather easily, but they evoke a panache that I don’t think can be matched by just a plain round lace.

Over the last several years we’ve seen a return of more and more shoe designs from the early 20th century. Lots of spectators and ankle boots and now also, the flat waxed lace. There are a lot of unwaxed ones out there as well that are quite thick and wide and don’t really look in place on a dress shoe, but I’m happy we now have options.

If You’d like to get a pair I still suggest John Lobb and now Allen Edmonds as they have shoes in their lineup that require such laces.

A pair of Buzz Rickson officer shoe reproductions I purchased along with extra laces (in stumbling Japanese while in Tokyo). Unwaxed flat cotton

IMG_7762-vi.jpg


Special Make Allen Edmonds with their waxed flat laces from John Lobb
IMG_2044-vi.jpg
 

Guttersnipe

One Too Many
Messages
1,942
Location
San Francisco, CA
A lot of Stacy Adams shoes come with flat laces made from nylon that otherwise look exactly like flat vintage shoelaces. I have a (rapidly) dwindling supply of vintage laces, so I've been meaning to see if Stacy Adams is willing to sell laces separately.
 
Messages
13,672
Location
down south
http://shoelacesexpress.com
I found this place looking for some flat laces for a pair of red wing boots earlier this year. They carry flat waxed cotton dress shoe laces in various lengths in black, brown, and white. I think two pair runs about five bucks

Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk 2
 

LoveMyHats2

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
5,196
Location
Michigan
My Husband tends to agree that at times, (most of the time) a nice vintage look flat lace seems to make the shoe look more "vintage". I am not sure exactly his source but he has a few pair of laces he purchased that have a slight tan color to them, and they work so very well on anything non black in color. However some shoes he has installed the laces on have such a small lace opening, it makes it difficult to make them work.

There is one place online that he has ordered custom sized and color and tip shoe laces for his shoes, shoeshine express, I think is the name. They have a wide variety of colors, materials and the end of the laces can be ordered in metal and different colors.

One other thing I have watched him do is to take a pair of light brown flat shoe laces and soak them in some warm bleach water, to make them have a vintage fade to them. I am sure the laces had to be made of cotton material. Then he used the same water that had the leaked color from those shoe laces and soaked a pair of white laces in, which then gave those laces a "old" sun faded vintage look.

Perhaps this information could be of some help to you in seeking something that has a vintage appeal to it in the way of shoe laces!

Cindy
 

nihil

One of the Regulars
Messages
206
Location
Copenhagen
Very interesting thread. I must admit that I also like flat shoe laces very much. Not for all styles of shoes, but for a lot of them....Now I must get some for a couple of my pairs of shoes :)
 
Messages
17,220
Location
New York City
A variation on this thread's theme is to ask if you prefer your shoes laced criss-crossed as in the first pair of shoes in Matt's first post or horizontal as in the second pair of shoes? I am a big fan of the latter as, IMHO, it is clean and elegant; whereas, the criss-cross style jars the eye a bit and distracts your attention away from the shoe.
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
I think it depends on the shoe and how you feel about it. I tend to lace my balmorals straight across seeing as it can close the seam of the shoe entirely, but with bluchers I like to crisscross the lacing with the first lace starting from under as not to have it going straight across at the bottom.
 

LoveMyHats2

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
5,196
Location
Michigan
I have purchased a few pairs of rather nice Vintage NOS Gunboats for Christmas for my Husband. One pair came with flat laces, waxed dress laces no less! I was very surprised as normally you see those thin round wax laces in dress shoes. I'll post some pictures later.

As for as how anyone actually does the laces up on a pair of shoes, depending on how the shoe was made, it can be hard to stick the laces in the very first bottom opening, as the tongues of the shoe are sewn on one side on many vintage shoes my Husband owns, and I have observed him having to actually get a bit "miffed" until the shoe lace end finally makes it through the opening.
 
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17,220
Location
New York City
As for as how anyone actually does the laces up on a pair of shoes, depending on how the shoe was made, it can be hard to stick the laces in the very first bottom opening, as the tongues of the shoe are sewn on one side on many vintage shoes my Husband owns, and I have observed him having to actually get a bit "miffed" until the shoe lace end finally makes it through the opening.[/QUOTE]

You made me chuckle as I am quite familiar with that problem and wonder to myself - when it happens and my frustration is building - does this happen to anyone else. Apparently it does.
 

LoveMyHats2

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
5,196
Location
Michigan
As for as how anyone actually does the laces up on a pair of shoes, depending on how the shoe was made, it can be hard to stick the laces in the very first bottom opening, as the tongues of the shoe are sewn on one side on many vintage shoes my Husband owns, and I have observed him having to actually get a bit "miffed" until the shoe lace end finally makes it through the opening.

You made me chuckle as I am quite familiar with that problem and wonder to myself - when it happens and my frustration is building - does this happen to anyone else. Apparently it does.[/QUOTE]


Yes I am sure it is a bid of a tug of war on the laces. I have observed my Husband actually use a slim small pair of needle nose pliers a few times. I had to ask him, "what in the world are you doing", and he stated back, "putting a worm on a hook" ! LOL!
 
Messages
17,220
Location
New York City
You made me chuckle as I am quite familiar with that problem and wonder to myself - when it happens and my frustration is building - does this happen to anyone else. Apparently it does.


Yes I am sure it is a bid of a tug of war on the laces. I have observed my Husband actually use a slim small pair of needle nose pliers a few times. I had to ask him, "what in the world are you doing", and he stated back, "putting a worm on a hook" ! LOL![/QUOTE]

While I haven't done that, I have done equally crazy things (for example, when I put a collar pin in a shirt for the first time, I will lay the shirt out on the bed and use a tape measure to make sure I put the holes in the right place and that they are symmetrical) that my girlfriend just rolls her eyes at, so it's nice to know there are other equally "passionate" people out there.
 

BR Gordon

One Too Many
Messages
1,152
Location
New Mexico
http://shoelacesexpress.com
I found this place looking for some flat laces for a pair of red wing boots earlier this year. They carry flat waxed cotton dress shoe laces in various lengths in black, brown, and white. I think two pair runs about five bucks

Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk 2

I ordered flat waxed laces from http://shoelacesexpress.com and what arrived, although technically they are flat, are not what I have always had as flat laces. You have to look very closely to see that they are in-fact flat. I will not be ordering from them again.
 

Isshinryu101

One Too Many
Messages
1,328
Location
New Jersey
I think it depends on the shoe and how you feel about it. I tend to lace my balmorals straight across seeing as it can close the seam of the shoe entirely, but with bluchers I like to crisscross the lacing with the first lace starting from under as not to have it going straight across at the bottom.

This is traditional "rule of lacing", although i will lace derby straight across if the fit is a bit loose.
 

LoveMyHats2

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
5,196
Location
Michigan
I ordered flat waxed laces from http://shoelacesexpress.com and what arrived, although technically they are flat, are not what I have always had as flat laces. You have to look very closely to see that they are in-fact flat. I will not be ordering from them again.

Well they do not have some that are going to look just right within what they do sell. But if you see they have some custom sizes and colors (grosgrain ribbon) with metal ends, those seem to be really nice.
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
Bunch of vintage German flat laces I found.
The top one are interesting... they are elastic and have a button to secure them at the bottom lace-hole.
You don't have to string your shoes, but can just slip in.

SAM_7663.jpg
 

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