Flared or Bell Shaped Jackets

[Cyber Lip]

Just got one of these (Freewheelers Journeyman):

Really happy with it, but wore it out for the first time today and was looking at myself in a Starbucks restroom mirror and for some reason, maybe it was the lighting, I noticed the curve of the jacket more then than I had in my mirror at home. And I thought to myself, does this look like a ladies jacket? lol. What are your thoughts on this type of cut/design?

 

[zebedee]

No, the shape reminds me of kids' kagools. The butt-end-wider-than-shoulders thing is something that I don't get on with, but, then again, I am not mad keen of Freewheelers' jacket cuts. It's not a female style, though.

 

[Dr H]

I am now on my second Journeyman and I have a Brakeman too (very similar silhouette).
When new and without break in the flare is more exaggerated in photos. You won’t notice it once it has started to crease and mould to your body.
Good choice: fine jackets.

 

[Dr H]

Choosing to eat in MakeBucks(TM) is a life choice with which I can’t help you...

 

[Seb Lucas]

I think they look fine as long as your build suits the cut. I suspect they might look less fetching on a person with a pear shaped build and a big bottom.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Not for me. Way to much bell. Why do they make this coat like this..? A straight cut would look so much better.
HD

 

[Dr H]

I’ve posted these images before (of a Brakeman, which has a very similar silhouette), but worth a repost. Compare the stock ‘brand new’ photo of a Journeyman that you posted (stiff collar, flattened jacket, exaggerating flare) with the following images of broken in Brakeman coats.

This one is my older Brakeman. Well broken in and now very soft.

I also have a deerskin Journeyman - the hide is of course very different from Shinki HH and supple from day 1. Because this already drapes very well, I’m not so aware of the flared skirt as the coat is far more conformal.

This is the jacket that I had to sell (Barcley has previously posted these images on the forum so I hope he doesn’t mind me using this). I had been wearing this regularly to work over a period of 4-5 months (so nothing extreme), but the Shinki relaxes well and creases nicely (collar sits lower, coat is flared, but naturally layers over shirt/T shirt).

Wear it often, in dry and wet weather to break it in. Drive in it to crease the back panel and it’ll look great!

 

[zebedee]

Lots of jackets in Korea and Japan for men seem to have a similar shape- it suits a certain - probably more well-represented - body type there than it does us relatively chunkier caucasians. On my buddies there, such jackets manage to look both practical and distinct. I put 'em on, I'm a drag queen.

 

[Big J]

Yeah, I agree with zebedee.
You have got to be painfully thin to make this cut work. It's much easier for Japanese men to do; no love handles at all, no paunch, no muscles. Protruding bones all over.

 

[Big J]

Just to be clear, it's not a criticism. I'm jealous.

 

[Sloan1874]

Looks like a jacket that suits the slim and needs to be worn fairly fitted, just like the majority of Japanese clothing. I have this problem Japanese clothing, I have to size up to get the necessary sleeve length, but end up with a slightly bell-like body shape. This is why I don't order much Japanese stuff nowadays, I can never quite get it the balance right. I suspect once it's had a bit breaking in the flare won't be so pronounced, but it may be that it's actually just a bit too big for you.

 

[red devil]

I tried a brakeman in size 42 recently and it was a bit too small, but it didn't show that bell curve shape when I wore it (Maybe because it was a size too small?)

Freewheelers has a lot of different patterns, I fit in 42 la brea but not in 42 centinela which is much more fitted at the waist. Same as Aero which has many different patterns I guess.

RMC on the other hand consistently doesn't fit me...

 

[Cyber Lip]

well, I'm a relatively slim guy 6 ft 160 lbs. and the jacket is a size 40 and fits like it was tailored for me. So there's no prob with my shape or the fit. I was actually wondering if the bell cut is intended for guys with a pear shape/large hips, which is what made me think of ladies jackets. And I think the color also contributed to this...green leather w/gold stitched button holes and light brown buttons. Don't get me wrong, I love it, but that color combo plus the shape made me think it's not the most masculine of looks.

 

[ton312]

Anything with narrow shoulders and exaggerated flare at the hem will look feminine to me. But the examples Dr. H has provided would indicate the flare is absorbed with wear. As the jacket molds I'm sure the flare will diminish. The color combo sounds really cool to me!

 

[zebedee]

It's a man's jacket, no fear. Almost any cut will loosen up over time with the usual techniques: rain/water, wearing all the time and fervent, unyielding belief.

 

[willyto]

All of these jackets when new look "terrible" and when worn look absolutely amazing. The longer coats specially. Wear it in good health, get it worn in and then decide if you still have the same issue.

If you don't get to the worn in stage you can't really judge I think.

 

[leather.be]

Yeah, I agree with zebedee.
You have got to be painfully thin to make this cut work. It's much easier for Japanese men to do; no love handles at all, no paunch, no muscles. Protruding bones all over.

You just described me to a T. Except for the Japanese part. This is actually helpful though for me as I'm assessing whether or not a Journeyman in Shinki Olive from another member would fit me. I realize looking at this comment that it's going on 4 years old. Just goes to show how the comments on FL are useful.