Five Star Leather Jackets

[PilotJens]

To me it looks like the old bait and switch which a lot of their fellow companies do.
Build a reputation and then cash in .

Sending me a sample with bad screen printing.Then good and then send me 1000 shirts painted with wall paint lol.

 

[Bahabp100]

That's my Hooch jacket! Aero did a great job on it.

But about the shoulder angle/sleeve going into torso (athletic vs slim), I've recently found that it's easiest to see it from the back, like this:

View attachment 594931

The blue one on the left will fit like your first brown A1, and the black one on the right is what I assume you want on your second black A1, two very different types of fits, even though the numbers are similar, very different panels,

Blue one arm hole and sleeve cross at the armhole
View attachment 594932

black one arm hole and sleeve across at the armhole
View attachment 594933

blue one fit (like your brown one, I call this athletic type)
View attachment 594934

black one fit (I assume this is what you want for your black A1 too, I call this slim long type)
View attachment 594935

Both of these are Johnson's own patterns, and they're my go to now. But they're also more money than 5*.

Shawn has the capability to make anything for you for less money, but getting the right message across (clear understanding on both sides) seems to be the most difficult issue in this thread. I actually had one of Shawn's slim long trucker but I replaced it with the Johnson one for two reasons, I messed up on the mods (because I didn't know better, it was only after experiencing Johnson's two different patterns I learned there are different ways of doing this), and the leather is not in the same level (price wasn't either).

I was not able to crack the 5* code so to speak, but I do think it's possible, I just don't know how. Good luck!

What kind of leather is the blue

 

[Canuck Panda]

heavy Horween horse

What kind of leather is the blue

overdyed using Angelus
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/johnson-leather-jacket.102701/post-3016342

 

[mysternee]

I was not able to crack the 5* code so to speak, but I do think it's possible, I just don't know how. Good luck!

Looking over this thread, I'm not convinced there's any "5* code". Just 5* odds. There are ways to improve the odds, but that's about it.

They'll faithfully reproduce a pattern, and they'll do so in good materials if you know which materials are good (in other words, if some brave guinea pigs have gone before you), and then specify them. There may be small or large QC issues. The jacket might be stinky.

To that extent, you're always rolling the dice. But it does seem to be the case that if a reproduction has QC issues or major faults, they'll sort it out for you. So you kind of get a re-roll or two. This route minimizes risk—I think you have good odds of getting value for money this way.

But once you get into a custom design, or custom measurements, or leaving anything unspecified... it's D20 territory. Over and over in this thread, the common theme is that something almost always goes wrong. A couple of people have eventually rolled a natural 20, but after how many rolls? And let's be honest, even if they don't muck something up, you might have! We've seen it a fair bit in this thread, where people think they know what they're doing, but they don't. And 5* will not correct or advise against your mistakes!

I think @ton312 is right that the whole custom route just seems really... well, dicey at this point. You're better off putting a bit of extra money toward getting something from one of the more reputable designers, because they are designers, not just producers. Where there are variables they're knowledgeable enough to fill in the blanks skilfully. When they feel you're making a mistake, they have the expertise to spot that and the confidence to advise against it.

I got a great deal from 5*. My modified G1 is excellent, and I'm not sure I could have gotten the same thing elsewhere, and certainly not for anything like that price. But my next jacket will be a HBD from Aero. Frankly I wouldn't go near a half-belt from 5*, because I certainly don't know what I'm doing, and I'm not confident they do either.

 

[unhatted]

To add to @PilotJens’s bad experience, I’ve heard precisely nothing in the 3 weeks since I ordered a custom smaller size (as opposed to customised measurements) of their LAPD cross zip. At the time it seemed like a fairly safe bet but now I’m concerned! Have asked for a refund if they have not yet started work on the jacket, which I suspect may in fact trigger them to start work on the jacket, though I’d kind of prefer the refund at this point… Guess we’ll see. Kind of regretting not going for Cidu’s pricier CHP cross zip, though I don’t love the look of the leather or the lack of belt loops…

 

[Canuck Panda]

To add to @PilotJens’s bad experience, I’ve heard precisely nothing in the 3 weeks since I ordered a custom smaller size (as opposed to customised measurements) of their LAPD cross zip. At the time it seemed like a fairly safe bet but now I’m concerned! Have asked for a refund if they have not yet started work on the jacket, which I suspect may in fact trigger them to start work on the jacket, though I’d kind of prefer the refund at this point… Guess we’ll see. Kind of regretting not going for Cidu’s pricier CHP cross zip, though I don’t love the look of the leather or the lack of belt loops…

I have the 5* Cal copy from Bahap, regular size 42, very short, there is shoulder pads and stiffeners in the kidney and bottom hem which I didn't expect and did not like. All I changed was to go with cinch tabs instead of laces and deleted pocket zippers.
Cidu one looks it will fit better because there is a front drop and the cut is slimmer.
5* Cal copy

 

[Bahabp100]

heavy Horween horse

overdyed using Angelus
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/johnson-leather-jacket.102701/post-3016342

I have the 5* Cal copy from Bahap, regular size 42, very short, there is shoulder pads and stiffeners in the kidney and bottom hem which I didn't expect and did not like. All I changed was to go with cinch tabs instead of laces and deleted pocket zippers.
Cidu one looks it will fit better because there is a front drop and the cut is slimmer.
5* Cal copy
View attachment 595821 View attachment 595820
View attachment 595819 View attachment 595818

Nice jacket ! What leather ?

 

[unhatted]

Thanks for posting that. The length hopefully will be less of an issue as it reduces by less than the width as they size down, but we’ll see (or not?!). The Cidu is maybe based on a later model and looks a little more like a generic DR in the proportions (particularly of the lapels)—I also prefer the look without shoulder gussets—but I suspect you’re right that it’s a safer bet. I can see what you mean about the kidney panel but what’s the deal with the shoulders?

 

[Canuck Panda]

Nice jacket ! What leather ?

These are the Horween HH I sent him from the Covid years, it has been a long while...

Thanks for posting that. The length hopefully will be less of an issue as it reduces by less than the width as they size down, but we’ll see (or not?!). The Cidu is maybe based on a later model and looks a little more like a generic DR in the proportions (particularly of the lapels)—I also prefer the look without shoulder gussets—but I suspect you’re right that it’s a safer bet. I can see what you mean about the kidney panel but what’s the deal with the shoulders?

It's hard to tell from the Cidu photos because they zipped it up higher, but the lapels do look a bit smaller than the 5* copy,

The 5* Cal copy comes with shoulder pads and waist stiffeners (front hem and rear kidney panel). It felt weird to me when I first got the jacket but then I had tried on a few CHP vintage jackets at my local store re-ride and they had them too. Still for civilian use I could do without the shoulder pads and the waist stiffener. And more length. The stock Cal copy sizes has the riding length and is above the belt.
It's only 19.5" ish front length, my usual jackets has at least 21" to cover some of the belt. If you are wearing it for daily use I would have a double look at the length. The body also tapers very fast on this pattern too, drops six very fast, so the wider P2P could be misleading if packing a bit more weight in the mid low section like me.

This pattern also has the small shirt collar (forward rotated), so there could be a comfort issue, but the other CHPs
I've seen also hangs like it,

I had upgraded to the big cast nickle zippers, I like them better than his 10s Ykk, a bit smoother and looks more substantial.

Originals seems to have two layer lining, one satin and one cotton/wool type flannel in the middle, maybe Shawn can copy that lining construction too for your jacket.

I like the Star Glove look,

 

[unhatted]

Honestly, while I have my doubts about 5* based on others’ recent experiences, I think 5* capture more of the charm of the original (part of which is the fact that they’re often too short to actually look good on!) than Cidu. Sometimes you need to buy a jacket that you know might not work for you because it looks so good hanging up (see my recent HWM purchase). The Cidu doesn’t excite me on the hanger but would possibly suit me more! Obviously a cal/al etc would be the dream but in 36 they’re both too rare and generally too pricey for me…

 

[Canuck Panda]

Honestly, while I have my doubts about 5* based on others’ recent experiences, I think 5* capture more of the charm of the original (part of which is the fact that they’re often too short to actually look good on!) than Cidu. Sometimes you need to buy a jacket that you know might not work for you because it looks so good hanging up (see my recent HWM purchase). The Cidu doesn’t excite me on the hanger but would possibly suit me more! Obviously a cal/al etc would be the dream but in 36 they’re both too rare and generally too pricey for me…

I just looked at the one on their website, it looks a bit different than mine which was from long time ago. Not sure if the photography jacket was a custom or not. But if the small details are important to you, now is the time to reconfirm with Shawn!

Differences:
-Invisible lapel studs (which to me is very important)
-bigger lapels
-mouton inside zipped sleeve
-different kidney panel

 

[bn1966]

My Trucker jacket in black ‘deerskin’ cloned from a series 3 denim worked out in the end after returning to get the dye fixed and gets worn a lot. Unlined suede trucker was poor quality and the dye ran out when it met the lightest of rain leaving me with ‘streaks’ on my skin & ended up in the bin (refunded). Custom G-1 wasn’t to the measurements I gave & was well made but didn’t fit & went on eBay. Since I’ve saved up and made a trip to ELC & have another A-2. Heard good things about their military shearlings but if I wanted one I’d put in the overtime and go to Eastmans.

 

[MrProper]

Sometimes you need to buy a jacket that you know might not work for you because it looks so good hanging up (see my recent HWM purchase).

Erm, no. No need to buy a jacket that’s only looks good on a hanger.

 

[unhatted]

Erm, no. No need to buy a jacket that’s only looks good on a hanger.

By which I mean *I* sometimes need to try out an iconic cut that I suspect might not suit me, and move it on if those suspicions are confirmed. I wouldn’t be the first or last person to not make a CHP cross-zip work after loving them in photos…

I just looked at the one on their website, it looks a bit different than mine which was from long time ago. Not sure if the photography jacket was a custom or not. But if the small details are important to you, now is the time to reconfirm with Shawn!

Differences:
-Invisible lapel studs (which to me is very important)
-bigger lapels
-mouton inside zipped sleeve
-different kidney panel
View attachment 595911 View attachment 595910

Ah, thanks for the heads up but there are 2 models on their website! Mine is the LAPD which is the same as yours (minus your changes!). The website isn’t the best organised.

 

[handymike]

Meandering through Petaluma today I discovered 14 Five Star jackets for sale in Zoe’s Clothing Exchange! 10 black/ 4 brown all size 44…..lots of tweaks and variations. All Pretty heavy- steer and horse…like new condition…
Fess up, who was it?

 

[ton312]

Meandering through Petaluma today I discovered 14 Five Star jackets for sale in Zoe’s Clothing Exchange! 10 black/ 4 brown all size 44…..lots of tweaks and variations. All Pretty heavy- steer and horse…like new condition…
Fess up, who was it?
View attachment 596187

That’s got to be @KBlake’s pile. How much were they asking for them? lol they put an anti theft tag right through the jacket. That’s hilarious.

 

[handymike]

$200ea

 

[ton312]

$200ea

Optimistic but I guess you never know.

 

[ton312]

$200ea

What was your impression of the jackets? I know they aren’t your size but seeing them in the “flesh” as it were.

 

[PilotJens]

Lol for real ?
That's why the quality dropped because nobody wears them .
And someone at the donation places is wondering why people donate such heavy brand new leather jackets .

Meanwhile I found the old quality cotton twill used as the lining for the inside pockets haha