Five Star Leather Jackets

[MrProper]

There are two café racers on 5* website. I specified one of them and it explicitly has round shoulders because 5* has a penchant for pointed shoulders.
I do hope that 5* has secured the pattern.

https://www.fivestarleather.us/products/cafe-racer-jacket

 

[abbaralph]

I specified 25.75” and this is the photo I got from Shawn. Thoughts?

Looks shorter to me

 

[MotionDesign]

Hi all! I'm new here and I'm sorry to say I'm a casualty of the FiveStar enthusiasm. After wading through the hundreds of pages of this thread, I couldn't resist my curiosity and ordered a custom-sized cafe racer (the J100 lookalike). The turnaround was speedy, the materials decent for the money, the measurements spot on, but the style . . . just doesn't suit me. I don't think I've ever seen shoulders so pointy. So, despite the fit being pretty good otherwise, I'm going to be passing this one off to whoever will take it (maybe someone with pterodactyl shoulders).

P.S. Has anyone returned a custom-sized jacket for a (partial) refund? I'm expecting the answer to be no, but I thought I would ask.

Hey, I'm sorry to hear that. In my limited experience, the shoulder peaks are primarily a function of a large arm opening to slim biceps. However, this can also be amplified by excessive shoulder width. As it has been mentioned many times here, 5 Star will put together any jacket according to your specs without cross-referencing your body measurements or providing feedback.
It's too bad because other than the shoulders, the jacket seems to fit you fine. I would certainly ask for a deal on a jacket remake. And if you do decide to redo it, specify the relation of arm opening to sleeve biceps at about 20%, for example:

• Arm opening at 10.6"
• Biceps at 8.5"

Also, just by looking at your pictures, I would suggest reducing the shoulder width by at least 2".

Good Luck!

 

[MrProper]

Hey, I'm sorry to hear that. In my limited experience, the shoulder peaks are primarily a function of a large arm opening to slim biceps. However, this can also be amplified by excessive shoulder width. As it has been mentioned many times here, 5 Star will put together any jacket according to your specs without cross-referencing your body measurements or providing feedback.
It's too bad because other than the shoulders, the jacket seems to fit you fine. I would certainly ask for a deal on a jacket remake. And if you do decide to redo it, specify the relation of arm opening to sleeve biceps at about 20%, for example:

• Arm opening at 10.6"
• Biceps at 8.5"

Also, just by looking at your pictures, I would suggest reducing the shoulder width by at least 2".

Good Luck!

Pointed shoulders come through a steep angle from sleeve to shoulder. The flatter the angle, the rounder the shoulders.

 

[Dumpster Diver]

Does anyone here have experience with the sizing on the Five star 'Werber sportswear' D-1 Jacket?

A few people so far said the Medium size fits more like a Large?

 

[yxnstat]

Pointed shoulders come through a steep angle from sleeve to shoulder. The flatter the angle, the rounder the shoulders.

Thanks for the tip! I was deciding between the two cafe racers, and I definitely chose the wrong one (for my tastes). Actually, I already have a jacket I'm pretty happy with. It's just a bit short in the body and sleeves. I ordered the FiveStar to see what difference 1-2" would make there, and it turns out there's not a huge difference. I'll just be content with my slightly short Vanson / Union Garage.

 

[Madhouse27]

There are two café racers on 5* website. I specified one of them and it explicitly has round shoulders because 5* has a penchant for pointed shoulders.
I do hope that 5* has secured the pattern.

https://www.fivestarleather.us/products/cafe-racer-jacket

Just started the process with Shawn on my cafe racer. Going with the MrProper model with a Kehoe-style sleeve zip tweak and maybe a little embellishment on the sides (buttons or buckles). Thanks to you and others for all your input on this long but awesome thread!

 

[Dumpster Diver]

Been waiting for a reply from Five star leather about the sizing on the Werber Sportswear D-1 Jacket.

Thinking I'd have to get a size 'Large' but not %100 on that yet...Jacket sizes can be tricky.

Their medium fit is a 40-42, the Large being 42-44.

My actual chest measure is 42" shoulder is 20"

(Okay, okay... these days I'm more like a 43" chest, but when I was in good shape I could manage a G-1 in a size 40")

That said, sizes tend to vary. At the end of the day, I don't think I'm gonna find out how true to fit the jacket is until I'm actually zipping it up to see whether it's on the snug or loose side.

Recently a Five star Werber D-1 was sold on ebay, size Medium. The pit-to-pit measure was 22" across, which would make it a bit snug on me.

The owner of that Jacket also sold an Eastman B-3 in a size 40, but They said the Five star D-1 in size 40-42 'medium' fit them more like a large.

Presumably the seller was like a 38-40 chest in this case, the 'five star D-1 Medium' is more like a size 42 than a 40, and that means the 'five star D-1 large' would be more like a 44 than a 42...so the medium might be a bit snug, and the 44 would give me an inch to spare, A size up is ok, if it's what I'll end up with, I just hope it's not more like two sizes up, you know?

The plan is to lose a few pounds in the meantime anyway, plus isn't the D-1 is supposed to be a utility Jacket, and not a tailored fit. Seems to me, they made 'em so you could probably go a size up or down from your actual size.

I don't know if you might be able to share some insight or experience.

Ok Thank you!

 

[KBlake]

Thanks for the tip! I was deciding between the two cafe racers, and I definitely chose the wrong one (for my tastes). Actually, I already have a jacket I'm pretty happy with. It's just a bit short in the body and sleeves. I ordered the FiveStar to see what difference 1-2" would make there, and it turns out there's not a huge difference. I'll just be content with my slightly short Vanson / Union Garage.

The vanson is the right length and the 5* is objectively too long.

 

[KBlake]

Been waiting for a reply from Five star leather about the sizing on the Werber Sportswear D-1 Jacket.

Thinking I'd have to get a size 'Large' but not %100 on that yet...Jacket sizes can be tricky.

Their medium fit is a 40-42, the Large being 42-44.

My actual chest measure is 42" shoulder is 20"

(Okay, okay... these days I'm more like a 43" chest, but when I was in good shape I could manage a G-1 in a size 40")

That said, sizes tend to vary. At the end of the day, I don't think I'm gonna find out how true to fit the jacket is until I'm actually zipping it up to see whether it's on the snug or loose side.

Recently a Five star Werber D-1 was sold on ebay, size Medium. The pit-to-pit measure was 22" across, which would make it a bit snug on me.

The owner of that Jacket also sold an Eastman B-3 in a size 40, but They said the Five star D-1 in size 40-42 'medium' fit them more like a large.

Presumably the seller was like a 38-40 chest in this case, the 'five star D-1 Medium' is more like a size 42 than a 40, and that means the 'five star D-1 large' would be more like a 44 than a 42...so the medium might be a bit snug, and the 44 would give me an inch to spare, A size up is ok, if it's what I'll end up with, I just hope it's not more like two sizes up, you know?

The plan is to lose a few pounds in the meantime anyway, plus isn't the D-1 is supposed to be a utility Jacket, and not a tailored fit. Seems to me, they made 'em so you could probably go a size up or down from your actual size.

I don't know if you might be able to share some insight or experience.

Ok Thank you!

With 5* you need to provide the measurements you want and they will make it custom for you. disregard the measurements on the site.

 

[Dumpster Diver]

Thanks for the reply!

It's a good thought. I've sent them my actual chest and shoulder measurement.

Does 5* charge an extra for every customized measurement?

...I'm alright with ordering a standard stock size in this case. I don't want to alter the originality of the pattern if it's a faithful copy of an original contract, which is the main selling point for me as a vintage Flight Jacket enthusiast.

Hopefully I will hear back from them and someone is able confer that a size Large will fit better than the medium.

If I'm not standing in front of an actual tailor taking my measurement, it might not be accurate you know?

Some people go custom with their Jackets and wind up with something that is still not quite right.

As long as the Jacket is near where I can live with it. Good enough.

If for some reason I have to re-sell it, it might be more of a problem for someone else if the Jacket was custom fit to my size.

Wouldn't be able to return it if it was customized either.

 

[KBlake]

Thanks for the reply!

It's a good thought. I've sent them my actual chest and shoulder measurement.

Does 5* charge an extra for every customized measurement?

...I'm alright with ordering a standard stock size in this case. I don't want to alter the originality of the pattern if it's a faithful copy of an original contract, which is the main selling point for me as a vintage Flight Jacket enthusiast.

Hopefully I will hear back from them and someone is able confer that a size Large will fit better than the medium.

If I'm not standing in front of an actual tailor taking my measurement, it might not be accurate you know?

Some people go custom with their Jackets and wind up with something that is still not quite right.

As long as the Jacket is near where I can live with it. Good enough.

If for some reason I have to re-sell it, it might be more of a problem for someone else if the Jacket was custom fit to my size.

Wouldn't be able to return it if it was customized either.

They don’t charge for customization so there’s no reason not to measure a jacket that fits you well and prove the specific measurements you need. Good luck!

 

[Dumpster Diver]

They don’t charge for customization so there’s no reason not to measure a jacket that fits you well and prove the specific measurements you need. Good luck!

Might better go with a size 'Large' to be safe unless I hear different. The medium looks like it could prove to be on the smaller side for me according to their size chart against my measurements. Hard to say.

I'll wait and see what I hear back from 5* to be sure I'm on the right track with my measuring.

Thank you for the reply!

 

[58panheadfan]

FiveStar_D-Pocket_Road Master black waxed Steerhide, custom made

 

[TankPopper]

My first FiverStar jacket is finally here!

The base model was the Civilian Vintage 1930's Classic Men Real Leather Jacket cafe racer with multiple alterations.

Leather - black goat, non waxed.
removed the chest pockets.
Added an Xlarge glove pocket (best pocket ever)
changed the back shape
Replaced the buckles on the back belts with buttons
Changed the cuffs
Added a panel under the zipper
Brown leather under the collar and around the pocket holes

All in all - i'm very happy with the result! the jacket sits very nice, and 99% of my requests were met.
I did mess up two measurements, but nothing too critical (the arm portal and cuffs are too big).

The only thing i'm somewhat unhappy about is the forward angle the jacket gets when open (see the side pictures). I hope the leather will loosen up and drape nicer.

Two things to notice - this is goat, but thick, heavy and sturdy goat. Its far from soft and definitely requires some breaking in. The leather also has a very noticeable odder, so airing it is a must.

On a side note - I did try to convince Shawn to make me a wallet with my own design. I even made detailed plans (i'm an industrial designer). Let's hope he cooperates on this, because i really want a matching wallet!

Big thanks to @MrProper and @MotionDesign, and everyone else that helped!
Tank Out.

 

[KBlake]

FiveStar_D-Pocket_Road Master black waxed Steerhide, custom made

View attachment 495623 View attachment 495624

Does it come waxed or did you have to request that?

 

[KBlake]

My first FiverStar jacket is finally here!

The base model was the Civilian Vintage 1930's Classic Men Real Leather Jacket cafe racer with multiple alterations.

Leather - black goat, non waxed.
removed the chest pockets.
Added an Xlarge glove pocket (best pocket ever)
changed the back shape
Replaced the buckles on the back belts with buttons
Changed the cuffs
Added a panel under the zipper
Brown leather under the collar and around the pocket holes

View attachment 495751
View attachment 495752
View attachment 495753
View attachment 495754
View attachment 495755
View attachment 495756

All in all - i'm very happy with the result! the jacket sits very nice, and 99% of my requests were met.
I did mess up two measurements, but nothing too critical (the arm portal and cuffs are too big).

The only thing i'm somewhat unhappy about is the forward angle the jacket gets when open (see the side pictures). I hope the leather will loosen up and drape nicer.

Two things to notice - this is goat, but thick, heavy and sturdy goat. Its far from soft and definitely requires some breaking in. The leather also has a very noticeable odder, so airing it is a must.

On a side note - I did try to convince Shawn to make me a wallet with my own design. I even made detailed plans (i'm an industrial designer). Let's hope he cooperates on this, because i really want a matching wallet!

Big thanks to @MrProper and @MotionDesign, and everyone else that helped!
Tank Out.

What color thread is this?

 

[58panheadfan]

Does it come waxed or did you have to request that?

Got it on request...

 

[TankPopper]

What color thread is this?

@KBlake Cognic brown

 

[MotionDesign]

@TankPopper Congratulations on receiving a beautiful and well-fitting jacket as your first custom order from Five Star! My first custom order from Shawn did not see a lot of daylight ;-).