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Five Star Leather Jackets

MrProper

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4,375
Location
Europe
Hello,

You guys said that CHL is not so good for jackets and that 5star doesn't use it anymore.
So is CHL good or nor? Especially for the A2 type jackets.

Thanks.
You have to distinguish between CHL V1 and its successor (is the successor still called CHL?).
The first version was completely unsuitable for a jacket. Maybe for shoes or bags, but nothing else. Even for the pockets of my vest it was unsuitable. A cardboard box is soft and smooth against it.

Different the successor, which I have as 2mm waterproof HH. The is thick, but rather soft. However, this also comes nowhere near the CXSH from Horween.
I would probably not have an A-2 made from it. With the Halfbelt I like it quite well. However, it has a gray core, which already comes through after light use. And it keeps "jumping" back to its original shape. It probably won't mold to the body. Let's see how it develops further.
 

MrProper

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4,375
Location
Europe
Only inspired by D1
1668178796302.jpeg
1668178818789.jpeg
 

Hobbes1

A-List Customer
Messages
392
Hello,

You guys said that CHL is not so good for jackets and that 5star doesn't use it anymore.
So is CHL good or nor? Especially for the A2 type jackets.

Thanks.
Stay clear of the CHL leather at all costs. This leather is NOT suitable for jackets unless it is shaved down about 50%. It is baseball glove leather not for jackets. I know from experience.
 

Eddiesuave

Familiar Face
Messages
84
You
Hello,

You guys said that CHL is not so good for jackets and that 5star doesn't use it anymore.
So is CHL good or nor? Especially for the A2 type jackets.

Thanks.
Hello,
You can listen to whoever you want. I bought two other jackets from Five Star 1.2mm HH,
 

Titus

One of the Regulars
Messages
118
You

Hello,
You can listen to whoever you want. I bought two other jackets from Five Star 1.2mm HH,

Hello,

I was talking about the 2.2 mm CHL leather and not the 1.2mm HH.

Is it cow or steer?

How comfortable is the A2 jacket in the CHL leather? Doesn't seem it is a good leather for A2 type jackets.

Thanks.
 

Eddiesuave

Familiar Face
Messages
84
Hello,

I was talking about the 2.2 mm CHL leather and not the 1.2mm HH.

Is it cow or steer?

How comfortable is the A2 jacket in the CHL leather? Doesn't seem it is a good leather for A2 type jackets.

Thanks.
Hello,

I was talking about the 2.2 mm CHL leather and not the 1.2mm HH.

Is it cow or steer?

How comfortable is the A2 jacket in the CHL leather? Doesn't seem it is a good leather for A2 type jackets.

Thanks.
Yes sir. I was going to type more, but hilariously enough I sneezed and clicked send. My point was compared to my previous experience with Five Star Leather’s Premium Leather this is certainly the better leather in my opinion. Keep in mind I’m a huge fan of old school work wear/military gear. I like stiffer and thicker materials and this is certainly a stiff jacket (as a thick leather jacket should be) and it will be slightly uncomfortable and restricting during it’s initial usage. However it is relatively pliable and stretchy, but it did pinch me a bit in the arms. But after 2 wears of less than 3 hours creases are already forming and it’s not really that big of a deal for me as my Buzz Rickson A-2 and Aero Sheene are the same kind of thickness. I’m not too sure what’s the deal between their Steerhide or CHL or if their CHL has changed over time. But I think we’re all speaking from personal experience and at the end of the day it’s up to you if you want to try it out. Cheers.

P.S: In the images they specify 2.2mm CHL Leather not Steerhide.
 

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Eddiesuave

Familiar Face
Messages
84
I do not. I could not get that leather to yield. I literally beat it with a hammer...and it was stll stiff as a brick. Worst leather ever for a jacket.
In case anyone is interested...
this is the first version of the 5* Shearling. After two years, the top coat disappears under the arms.
I expect similar things with the second version of the Shearling.
It doesn't bother me, but it may bother others.

View attachment 464855 View attachment 464856
Yes. Very interested I was actually going to put in an order for B-6 very soon. Any suggestions for sizing or materials? Never ordered a shearling jacket before.
 

MrProper

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4,375
Location
Europe
Yes. Very interested I was actually going to put in an order for B-6 very soon. Any suggestions for sizing or materials? Never ordered a shearling jacket before.
I think the advantage of a 5* is that you can have something made to your own specifications and measurements.
In the meantime, however, the Shearling at 5* are no longer so cheap and the difference to the established manufacturers is shrinking. Even more so, where for some the exchange rate is currently very favorable.
A B6 I would probably rather buy at Aero than at 5*. The shearling at Aero is better, denser and the leather is certainly twice as thick as that of 5*.

About the material I can say: Version 1 with 10 mm fleece is dense and warm. Another with 20 mm as well. The reddish shearling with 20/22 mm fleece is not dense enough and therefore too long. So it lies more than it stands and is not warmer than the 10 mm.
Very good I find the new 10 mm (which are actually rather 8 mm). This also lies more than that it stands, but is uniformly dense and the jacket is not overly thick. For a B6 I would probably take 20 mm.

Unfortunately, I can not say anything about the standard dimensions at 5*, because I always made according to my measurements.

Version 1, 10 mm:
1668494237152.jpeg


Version 2, 20 mm:
1668494296890.jpeg


Version ?, 10(8) mm:
1668494350865.jpeg


Reddish, 20 mm:
1668494380658.jpeg


Aero RAF Shearling:
1668494414853.jpeg
 

Eddiesuave

Familiar Face
Messages
84
I think the advantage of a 5* is that you can have something made to your own specifications and measurements.
In the meantime, however, the Shearling at 5* are no longer so cheap and the difference to the established manufacturers is shrinking. Even more so, where for some the exchange rate is currently very favorable.
A B6 I would probably rather buy at Aero than at 5*. The shearling at Aero is better, denser and the leather is certainly twice as thick as that of 5*.

About the material I can say: Version 1 with 10 mm fleece is dense and warm. Another with 20 mm as well. The reddish shearling with 20/22 mm fleece is not dense enough and therefore too long. So it lies more than it stands and is not warmer than the 10 mm.
Very good I find the new 10 mm (which are actually rather 8 mm). This also lies more than that it stands, but is uniformly dense and the jacket is not overly thick. For a B6 I would probably take 20 mm.

Unfortunately, I can not say anything about the standard dimensions at 5*, because I always made according to my measurements.

Version 1, 10 mm:
View attachment 464956

Version 2, 20 mm:
View attachment 464957

Version ?, 10(8) mm:
View attachment 464958

Reddish, 20 mm:
View attachment 464959

Aero RAF Shearling:
View attachment 464960
Thank you for your very respected, and swift reply/advice. I will add that I am buying this as a gift for a family member in California and I think the most cold it will see would be a small trip to NYC. I think I’m unfortunately going for the look more than the function. With that said do you think it would still be wiser to go for Aero Leather? And by any chance is the chemical smell rancid with the shearling?
 

Aloysius

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Messages
4,000
Is there a reason you want to gift a shearling jacket that’ll see use on a single trip rather than something more versatile/wearable at home? Just curious.
 

Eddiesuave

Familiar Face
Messages
84
Is there a reason you want to gift a shearling jacket that’ll see use on a single trip rather than something more versatile/wearable at home? Just curious.
Oh trust me I thought about this a lot. But they’ve been wanting one for years, it’s one of those things you grow up with your older brother watching a movie or seeing a poster and they say “Wow that’s a really cool jacket. I’ll probably never afford one or have one, but I wish I did”. And now it’s time to make that irrational child hood dream come true for them. This one of the few times that the money I make actually becomes absolutely worth it. I’m also sure it’ll get a couple of sweaty wears beyond the NYC trip.
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,375
Location
Europe
Thank you for your very respected, and swift reply/advice. I will add that I am buying this as a gift for a family member in California and I think the most cold it will see would be a small trip to NYC. I think I’m unfortunately going for the look more than the function. With that said do you think it would still be wiser to go for Aero Leather? And by any chance is the chemical smell rancid with the shearling?
Honestly, on a standard sized B-6, I would go for the Aero if it's financially feasible.
As I said, the advantage of 5* is that your own design and dimensions are possible.
If you don't use this advantage, I would go for the better shearling.

Chemical smell is minimal and dissipates very quickly. But I don't know how it is with the current shearlings.
 

Aloysius

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Messages
4,000
The chemical smell of the goatskin A-2 I ordered as a gift (and its replacement, after the fit was off) never seemed to go away, and the haunting memory of that smell always stops me from following in the footsteps of MrProper and Ton’s amazing 5* orders lol.

Honestly, on a standard sized B-6, I would go for the Aero if it's financially feasible.

And to your point, a stock page shearling at Aero is about $700 right now. That’s not a huge premium over 5*.
 

Eddiesuave

Familiar Face
Messages
84
The chemical smell of the goatskin A-2 I ordered as a gift (and its replacement, after the fit was off) never seemed to go away, and the haunting memory of that smell always stops me from following in the footsteps of MrProper and Ton’s amazing 5* orders lol.



And to your point, a stock page shearling at Aero is about $700 right now. That’s not a huge premium over 5*.
$700 USD? I’m looking at £750 on my end for a RAF.
 

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