With all that said I always wear my jacket open even in winter it barely gets cold in Florida and my weight fluctuates too much to worry about a tight fit. So now I will worry about getting the sleeves and body length right and make sure I’m not swimming in the waistline
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Five Star Leather Jackets
- Thread starter TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead
- Start date
Canuck Panda
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,730
@Damon141
I think most of our first horsehide jacket was a cafe racer. In my case, it also didn't work out. I paid £710 for a custom Aero, sent it back as soon as I open the box. Return shipping was $100. Got a remake, suffered with it for a year, then let it sat in the closet for another year, then sold it for $350.
I learned my lesson.
My second jacket was a stock Aero Daytona with riding sleeve length (+1"), which is the only Greg Field jacket I still have today, in Aero pattern.
It wasn't until a year or more later, I came across a Good Wear HB in the Classifieds, it is now part of my standard for pattern sizing.
It was also around this time I started taking fit photos at stomach level instead of chest level, for my own database:
And as luck have it, I've found another standard for pattern sizing, stock Johnson M500.
I stopped taking chest angle photos one jacket after this jacket.
A few things I am trying to say, is that, I've been there.
I've also misunderstood many info and photos.
But there are very good stock patterns out there. You will find one that's right for you, and everything will be clear then.
Unfortunately I really don't think 5Star is a good place for pattern learning, that's why I asked about your Himel.
5Star is really a place to come to after too many expensive jackets.
Cafe Racers / J100 Racing Shirts are hard to get the fit you want if you have taper more than 5" drop chest to waist. This is where alteration comes in. Motorcycle jackets are by design to have longer and not slim sleeves, especially at bending points. (The good ones) do tighten in all the right spots to stop back flow.
A good read here is Carlos Database
www.thefedoralounge.com
And pointy shoulders won't round. It's the way the sleeves are attached to the bodice. Athletic guys benefits from rounded shoulder slope (not flat), but not necessary rounded sleeve attachment. Rounded shoulder slope works best with slight angled sleeve attachment. One day you'll find a jacket that will show you this way, or just go through Carlos posts.
Check out Carlo's database. It's a shame the guy doesn't update it with his current jacket anymore. The best source of solid intel on jackets.
Godspeed.
I think most of our first horsehide jacket was a cafe racer. In my case, it also didn't work out. I paid £710 for a custom Aero, sent it back as soon as I open the box. Return shipping was $100. Got a remake, suffered with it for a year, then let it sat in the closet for another year, then sold it for $350.
I learned my lesson.
My second jacket was a stock Aero Daytona with riding sleeve length (+1"), which is the only Greg Field jacket I still have today, in Aero pattern.
It wasn't until a year or more later, I came across a Good Wear HB in the Classifieds, it is now part of my standard for pattern sizing.
It was also around this time I started taking fit photos at stomach level instead of chest level, for my own database:
And as luck have it, I've found another standard for pattern sizing, stock Johnson M500.
I stopped taking chest angle photos one jacket after this jacket.
A few things I am trying to say, is that, I've been there.
I've also misunderstood many info and photos.
But there are very good stock patterns out there. You will find one that's right for you, and everything will be clear then.
Unfortunately I really don't think 5Star is a good place for pattern learning, that's why I asked about your Himel.
5Star is really a place to come to after too many expensive jackets.
Cafe Racers / J100 Racing Shirts are hard to get the fit you want if you have taper more than 5" drop chest to waist. This is where alteration comes in. Motorcycle jackets are by design to have longer and not slim sleeves, especially at bending points. (The good ones) do tighten in all the right spots to stop back flow.
A good read here is Carlos Database
My leather jacket database.
For a while i have been wanting to photograph and measure all my jackets, just to see if i could learn something from the numbers and how they really influence fit relatively speaking. Since this is a subject that comes up pretty often, i thought i might as well share it here in case it can help...
And pointy shoulders won't round. It's the way the sleeves are attached to the bodice. Athletic guys benefits from rounded shoulder slope (not flat), but not necessary rounded sleeve attachment. Rounded shoulder slope works best with slight angled sleeve attachment. One day you'll find a jacket that will show you this way, or just go through Carlos posts.
Check out Carlo's database. It's a shame the guy doesn't update it with his current jacket anymore. The best source of solid intel on jackets.
Godspeed.
Good info. I think my best fit on a J 100 style jacket is going to be Field‘s leather which I’m on the waiting list for, I’m also in the works for a sooner jacket with Lewis Leather, No. 68 super sportsman which I think will have a little bit more give with the waist tensioner’s and drape better than a typical Mandarin style collar jacket, I’d also be open to buying vintage jacket if it was close to my size and possibly have the sleeves altered which is a must with my height and weight
I hope you kept that GW!
Canuck Panda
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,730
Never letting that one go!
GW is just Good Wear Jacket. Period.
I guess it was too tight for your taste? For the first try I find it top. I would like them like this. On the other hand... if you can't move around in it…Got a remake, suffered with it for a year, then let it sat in the closet for another year, then sold it for $350.
5* is a producer, not a designer.
Give them exact instructions and they will build you 5000 exact copies. Only on the basis of body measurements create a pattern, is a less good idea. I can't speak from my own experience, but can only judge from pictures of others.
But still, they seem to know their business, that they can build well-fitting and comfortable jackets based only on my specifications.
Exactly. I think the advantage of round shoulders is that the shoulder width can vary more.
If the shoulder width is a little wider, it is less visually noticeable than with pointed shoulders.
If pointed shoulders are too wide, I like it less.
In the meantime I know how to instruct 5* to get round shoulders in a new pattern. lol
I love that coloring. Is it one if your vintage jackets?
It looks like one of those hand dyed leather products made to look like patina.
I wish I could try to dye my Cognac goat.
I don’t know whether I want to start with just a Saphir cream or a paint on dye like Fiebings.
I actually bought and returned a Coach Leather Jacket because of a video on YouTube showing a patina color. Actual jacket that arrived looked nothing like it so back it went and bought a Schott.
Attachments
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Somewhere here in the thread Tony described how he first gave a 5* jacket an acetone cure and then re-dyed it.
I might want to try that with my michachocolate colored trucker.
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Gr8Lakes
Familiar Face
- Messages
- 72
- Location
- Mid-Michigan, USA
Since I’m guessing my jacket is next in the queue, and there was no more 2mm available for me, I’d say… yup.
@Damon141
I think most of our first horsehide jacket was a cafe racer. In my case, it also didn't work out. I paid £710 for a custom Aero, sent it back as soon as I open the box. Return shipping was $100. Got a remake, suffered with it for a year, then let it sat in the closet for another year, then sold it for $350.
View attachment 417244
I learned my lesson.
My second jacket was a stock Aero Daytona with riding sleeve length (+1"), which is the only Greg Field jacket I still have today, in Aero pattern.
View attachment 417245
It wasn't until a year or more later, I came across a Good Wear HB in the Classifieds, it is now part of my standard for pattern sizing.
View attachment 417246
It was also around this time I started taking fit photos at stomach level instead of chest level, for my own database:
View attachment 417247
And as luck have it, I've found another standard for pattern sizing, stock Johnson M500.
View attachment 417249
I stopped taking chest angle photos one jacket after this jacket.
View attachment 417250
A few things I am trying to say, is that, I've been there.
I've also misunderstood many info and photos.
But there are very good stock patterns out there. You will find one that's right for you, and everything will be clear then.
Unfortunately I really don't think 5Star is a good place for pattern learning, that's why I asked about your Himel.
5Star is really a place to come to after too many expensive jackets.
Cafe Racers / J100 Racing Shirts are hard to get the fit you want if you have taper more than 5" drop chest to waist. This is where alteration comes in. Motorcycle jackets are by design to have longer and not slim sleeves, especially at bending points. (The good ones) do tighten in all the right spots to stop back flow.
A good read here is Carlos Database
My leather jacket database.
For a while i have been wanting to photograph and measure all my jackets, just to see if i could learn something from the numbers and how they really influence fit relatively speaking. Since this is a subject that comes up pretty often, i thought i might as well share it here in case it can help...
And pointy shoulders won't round. It's the way the sleeves are attached to the bodice. Athletic guys benefits from rounded shoulder slope (not flat), but not necessary rounded sleeve attachment. Rounded shoulder slope works best with slight angled sleeve attachment. One day you'll find a jacket that will show you this way, or just go through Carlos posts.
View attachment 417251
Check out Carlo's database. It's a shame the guy doesn't update it with his current jacket anymore. The best source of solid intel on jackets.
Godspeed.
The guy is still working on it....
Expect an updated version this summer!
(I am actually going to paint a wall grey so that i have a good backdrop for the next batch of pics!)
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That jacket was a knock of an RRL piece actually. That was my first 5 Star. “The Learning Curve” jacket. LOL.
And yet, it wasn't that bad at all.
It certainly wasn’t. Shawn did exactly as I asked. The problem was what I asked for. LOL.
. It is an amazing cut and really a cool jacket.
Gr8Lakes
Familiar Face
- Messages
- 72
- Location
- Mid-Michigan, USA
I have anxiety about this! I gave very detailed instructions, so I’ll be getting precisely what I asked for.
I’m extremely grateful for the advice given by @Canuck Panda , and have read so much of what the others have advised about proper fit, so I’m confident(ish). But, this is my first truly bespoke jacket, versus an adjusted test jacket. So… It’s a little bit of nervous anticipation.
If you aren’t nervous about a custom made jacket, regardless who made it, then you know something nobody else on the planet does! Nerves are good. Keeps it lively.
honest personal opinion here, I'm not impressed with the fit at all worn by the model there.
on the + side
I think the shoulder slope looks good, the collar looks fit and the length of the jacket is fine, chest pocket placement is fine too.
on the - side
the back is just a mess on him I don't know if the model is posing with exaggerated chest flaunt to pull the jacketup to look neat from the front or what, but in that rear shot it was a mess there, and the upper sleeve circumference is just too big, and also how the chest zip closing to the side instead of closing to the center.
Ofcourse 100% agree, terrible model for the cut. If it is the picture I’m thinking of I just added it to show that it looks a little more generous in the bicep area than some Japanese cafe racers. I think the model was like 5’6” 120lbs also
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