Five Star Leather Jackets

[TheDonEffect]

Excuse my laziness, but can you guys post your HH brown pull up jackets, hard to figure out which one was which again.

 

[Marc mndt]

Eyeing one of the Five Star cossacks right now, namely this one, with the "cream" colored pull-up cowhide. Waiting to hear back if they still have this leather in stock or if its just another Five Star website fakeout.

The cuff looks weird to me. Like they mistakenly made the sleeves too short and decided to compensate with the cuff.

 

[hughesovka]

The cuff looks weird to me. Like they mistakenly made the sleeves too short and decided to compensate with the cuff.

Yeah, it is strangely tubular now that you mention it

 

[ton312]

Excuse my laziness, but can you guys post your HH brown pull up jackets, hard to figure out which one was which again.

Here’s an out door shot of the pull up. I hesitate to call it a pull up leather. It’s more a true russet. Not the chocolate milk russet. It has actual red in it.

 

[Marc mndt]

Here’s an out door shot of the pull up. I hesitate to call it a pull up leather. It’s more a true russet. Not the chocolate milk russet. It has actual red in it.
View attachment 408975

Needless to say your jacket looks awesome and it's absolutely mind boggling that 5* was able to produce such a great looking jacket for such little money.

There's just one thing that's sets them apart from your vintage halfbelts: the sleeve rolls are tiny. I wonder whether that's caused by the temper of the leather or by the upper sleeves being slightly narrower.



Your H&m had tiny sleeve rolls too:

 

[ton312]

Needless to say your jacket looks awesome and it's absolutely mind boggling that 5* was able to produce such a great looking jacket for such little money.

There's just one thing that's sets them apart from your vintage halfbelts: the sleeve rolls are tiny. I wonder whether that's caused by the temper of the leather or by the upper sleeves being slightly narrower.

View attachment 409025

Your H&m had tiny sleeve rolls too:

View attachment 409026

That’s purely the thin nature of the hide. This is lightweight horse. I would liken it to pony skin. It feels very much like my Knopf. I think that’s probably the fairest comparison in terms of weight. All my vintage stuff feels a good oz heavier. I also had Shawn cut these sleeves extremely trim, primarily b/c I expected it to be a lightweight leather.
Here’s the Knopf:

VS the 5 Star:

But co
Pared to the far, far thicker Campus, you can see a clear difference in weight:

The 5 Star will be perfect for Fall and Spring. It is most definitely not a winter jacket, especially with the satin liner.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Nothing is ever perfect. The mid brown hh is thicker, but that chocolate brown color has no red in it. The pull up color is much richer color but looks about half oz thinner.
The thing is, most 1000 dollars plus jackets are also thin. Not just vintages which in my only experience was paper thin, yet some how still held up over the years.
Waiting for my 5star 2mm horsehide jacket to arrive…

 

[Rugby]

To all 5* aficionados, please advice.
I've placed an order with them for a trucker through their website and I sent detailed instructions.
I received a response, which among pricing and what not, included this little nugget

"you selected size 2XL according to our size chart with our listing. This size is more suitable for body Chest Measurements of 45-46 inches with a Garment chest of 50" inches. which is inappropriate,
you mentioned your body measurement with 52 inches, please note the garment measurement is 4" to 6" wide then your natural chest, as per my observation 5XL with 56" chest fit you well."

Do they mean that a 56" chest, or a bit larger, jacket would fit a 52 inch chest? Do they mean I should've picked a larger jacket from their website? And if so, why? If there is more cost due to the larger size they should add that to the additional invoice that they're sending me any ways since I chose black horsehide over the goat leather, which adds $100.
Any advice is welcome

 

[Bahabp100]

To all 5* aficionados, please advice.
I've placed an order with them for a trucker through their website and I sent detailed instructions.
I received a response, which among pricing and what not, included this little nugget

"you selected size 2XL according to our size chart with our listing. This size is more suitable for body Chest Measurements of 45-46 inches with a Garment chest of 50" inches. which is inappropriate,
you mentioned your body measurement with 52 inches, please note the garment measurement is 4" to 6" wide then your natural chest, as per my observation 5XL with 56" chest fit you well."

Do they mean that a 56" chest, or a bit larger, jacket would fit a 52 inch chest? Do they mean I should've picked a larger jacket from their website? And if so, why? If there is more cost due to the larger size they should add that to the additional invoice that they're sending me any ways since I chose black horsehide over the goat leather, which adds $100.
Any advice is welcome

https://www.uen.org/cte/family/clothing-1/downloads/construction/ease.pdf

Chest ease is the difference between your body chest and the garment chest measurement . If it’s 50 inch you must add 2-6 inches depending on fit desired . If both measurements are the same - it won’t fit

 

[Rugby]

https://www.uen.org/cte/family/clothing-1/downloads/construction/ease.pdf

Chest ease is the difference between your body chest and the garment chest measurement . If it’s 50 inch you must add 2-6 inches depending on fit desired . If both measurements are the same - it won’t fit View attachment 409193

Ok. Thanks. I've just never had to go over ratios like that. I simply send measurements, and the maker does whatever it is they do and I get the garment.
But I appreciate the chart. Thank you.

 

[MrProper]

I like it rather tight and only have a difference of 2-3 inches.

 

[Rugby]

I like it rather tight and only have a difference of 2-3 inches.

I like some room with my clothes. Tight feels kinda...claustrophobic to me. If this jacket comes out even approximately right, the way I want it, I'll be ordering more from them. I have my eye on the Cossack and the '30s half belt like the one @Griemersma or @ton312 got

 

[ton312]

I like some room with my clothes. Tight feels kinda...claustrophobic to me. If this jacket comes out even approximately right, the way I want it, I'll be ordering more from them. I have my eye on the Cossack and the '30s half belt like the one @Griemersma or @ton312 got

5 Star has the tendency to want to oversize…by a lot. I size down on the measurement chart. A 44” from 5 Star has a 45” chest, which is actually an inch smaller than my measure chest! It is a tight fit but not so much so that I can’t zip it up comfortably.

 

[Rugby]

5 Star has the tendency to want to oversize…by a lot. I size down on the measurement chart. A 44” from 5 Star has a 45” chest, which is actually an inch smaller than my measure chest! It is a tight fit but not so much so that I can’t zip it up comfortably.

Oversize?? Oh s@#t! I hope I won't get a tent

 

[ton312]

Oversize?? Oh s@#t! I hope I won't get a tent

Yeah when they talk about 6” of extra room in the chest….way too much. Another thing to consider, and hopefully this won’t make things more confusing…armhole diameter directly effects the chest ease. Both these are 44”. The brown has a 10” arm hole, the black has an 11” armhole. The larger armhole affords more room in the chest and I think it shows.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Not all 5Star patterns works with super slim fit. Only the high arm hole ones, like the 30s HB. The winter HB has a different armhole setup and it feels restrictive even with bigger size and the shoulder gussets.
If slim fit suit like is what you are after, 30s HB is the pattern. The winter HB pattern is an attempt to make a low armhole pattern slim fit which doesn't work imo.
Soon I will find out how Shawn's truckers works.
But if my suspicions are correct, the odd number chest measurements are made for slim fit while the even number chest measurements are not. Not yet proven, but this is my theory for now. For example, if the jacket chest (2x P2P) is 45 (22.5 P2P), then it will fit better (mobility) than jacket chest 46 (23 P2P), especially when it has same width shoulder. To have the same mobility as the 45, it would have to be 48 and taper down because of the lower arm hole. Hope I make sense.
I'll post some pics of the vintage Wrangler/Lees I want to copy after I air them out. Best illustration of big P2P and low armhole that tapers down. Very CHP jacket like.

 

[hughesovka]

the stock measurements on the site for the cossacks are absolutely bizarre. The XS has a sleeve and body length measurement of 26 inches for example, which is insane to me

 

[ton312]

the stock measurements on the site for the cossacks are absolutely bizarre. The XS has a sleeve and body length measurement of 26 inches for example, which is insane to me

That pattern does have some weird measurements. Seems sized very, very large to the tag size

 

[Rugby]

Well, since the 5* cost is so favorable, I wouldn't be bad to figure out an algorithm to determine how to adjust the order according to the individual measurements and their interpretation of them.

And, without trying to divert the focus of the thread, I'd like to ask anyone with experience, if Aero leathers sends a mock jacket for fitting?

 

[Rugby]

Yeah when they talk about 6” of extra room in the chest….way too much. Another thing to consider, and hopefully this won’t make things more confusing…armhole diameter directly effects the chest ease. Both these are 44”. The brown has a 10” arm hole, the black has an 11” armhole. The larger armhole affords more room in the chest and I think it shows.
View attachment 409207 View attachment 409208

Damn good looking jackets.