Five Star Leather Jackets

[Kuro]

5* Flight Jacket, pointy shoulders, football gussets (btw my first 5*)
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This is what I am talking about with designs and function. Bravo for these pictures!

 

[Wardo1974]

Just arrived today. Cossack in cream Shawn “CXL”. The leather feels nice and a little sandy. Nice character and marks where we scratch it. The color is not as I expected though. And for some reason even having let a few cm here and there for a comfortable fit, my arm movement is restricted forward and up and it pulls the jacket up. Perhaps needs to break in? I’m really annoyed by the restrictions. For the rest I’m happy.

I think it looks fantastic, and the colour pretty similar to his pics he sent of this new leather.

I'm anxiously awaiting my own. How is the weight? Shawn warned me it's thick, heavy.

 

[Grasp loo paper]

I think it looks fantastic, and the colour pretty similar to his pics he sent of this new leather.

I'm anxiously awaiting my own. How is the weight? Shawn warned me it's thick, heavy.

Very thick and heavy !! You’ll love it! I’m waiting to see your pics )

 

[Wardo1974]

Very thick and heavy !! You’ll love it! I’m waiting to see your pics )

I've never ordered a custom jacket before so I'm nervous of the sizing details. I hope it all works out.

 

[MrProper]

I'm not sure how helpful this is...
You are basically comparing a bunch of jackets with poor mobility trying to figure out which is best.
Aero has IMO horrible patterns as far as mobility is concerned, FL patterns suffer from similar issues, and 5 Star can be all over the place.
IMO it's a bit like comparing McDonalds, Burger King and Wendy's looking for the best burger, odds are you are not going to find it there...

If you took the same pics comparing a Langlitz Columbia, a Lewis MkII and a Vanson Model E you would see basically no movement of the jacket when changing position as these jackets have patterns designed for free movement.

Unfortunately, I don't know whether it's helpful either (I hope at least it doesn't do any harm).
I think that the claim for mobility is often too high and mobility worsens if certain parameters are unfavorable.
Vanson E and Langlitz have bi-swing / action backs, so it doesn't surprise me that they have excellent mobility. I can only imagine that with the MK2 if its dimensions fit perfectly. Unfortunately, I do not own any of these jackets and therefore cannot judge them.
Since leather doesn't stretch at will, mobility can only come from a (too) lot of material or constructive measures (gussets, action back, ...). Or it would be like a second skin, which is unrealistic.
Unfortunately, I'm just a beginner and I have far too few different manufacturers to compare with.
The only thing I know from my motorcycle jackets from the past is that they are made for the position on the motorcycle and were rather unsuitable for everyday use.
For me, all of my jackets are fine the way I use them, so I don't feel restricted. When I look at my shirts and sweaters, they also lift when I lift my arms. I don't see how this could be prevented either.
Maybe I also have a wrong understanding of what mobility means. Maybe you mean that I can't get my arms forward because the jacket prevents it? In this case, I definitely couldn't be of any help because I don't have any jackets that do.

 

[Wardo1974]

It could be that a sense of tension, or reduced mobility is part of the package when wearing a jacket with large panels of leather?

I have a cheap cafe racer style with fantastic mobility, but it's made with many small pieces sewn together. They may flex differently than a higher quality jacket.

 

[Alexlutov]

then I want to share my details too.

Leather: the new natural CXL with lot of grain. All hides should have the same thickness. So it shouldn't that the leather on the body is thinner than on the sleeves. Also it shouldn't that the leather on the front/back is thinner than on the opposite side.
Lining: brown or khaki heavy duty cotton drill.
Thread: brown or khaki?
Zipper: Same as on the photos. Is it gun metal? It seems like these are the same zippers as the ones on my Cafe Racer (YKK with wire puller) (Picture 7 + 8)

Details:

• Please pay close attention to the details in the pictures.
• Round shoulders like your A-2 jackets. This means that the shoulder to sleeve angle must be as flat as possible. (Picture 3)
• All seams like on the pictures.
• See pocket details on the chest pockets. Angle 75° (Pictures 1 + 5)
• See pocket details on the hand warmer pockets. Angle 75° (Pictures 1 + 6 + 7)
• Slightly rounded v-shape seams on the back like on the picture (Pictures 2 + 4 + 9)
• Zips on sleeves inside forearms, single layer leather so that the forearm gusset is thin. Maybe with skived leather? Same as on my Cafe Racer (Pictures 10 + 4)
• Slightly curved sleeves. Same as on my Cafe Racer (Pictures 1 + 4)
• Collar same as on the pictures (Pictures 1 + 12)
• The waistband at the back has a curve. That means the back is a little longer than the sides. The front of the original jacket is significantly shorter. But I don't want that. So better everything is straight as with my Cafe Racer but with only +1cm front drop. (Pictures 1 + 4 + 9)
• Back yoke western style (Picture 11)

Measurements:

• Collar inner circumference: max. 45 cm (Pictures 1 + 12 + others)
• Armhole: 27,5 cm (Picture 1)
• Biceps: 22,5 cm (Picture 1)
• Elbow 17,5 cm (Picture 1)
• Arm cuff closed: 12,5 cm, open 15 cm (Picture 1)
• Sleeve length: 71 cm (with 49 cm shoulder; 70 cm with 50 cm shoulder) (Picture 1)
• Shoulder seam to seam: 49 cm with rounded shoulders (Pictures 2 + 11).
• P2P: 58 cm (Picture 1)
• Natural waist: 49 cm (Picture 1)
• Hem: 49 cm (Picture 1)
• Height between hem and natural waist: 26 cm. Please be careful about this. (Picture 1)
• Back length: max. 67 cm (Picture 1)
• Front drop: +1 cm; Front drop has to start at the v-shape seams on the back. (Pictures 1 + 9)
• Chest pocket: 19,5 cm to the inner edge from throat collar seam. Angle 75°. (Pictures 1 + 5)
• Hand warmer pockets: with zipper, angle 75° (Pictures 1 + 6 + 7)
• Zipper length chest pocket: 14 cm (Pictures 1 + 5)
• Zipper length forearms: 18 cm (Picture 10)
• Zipper length hand warmer pockets: 18,5 cm (Pictures 1 + 6 + 7)

This kind of jacket must be really trim fit. so please be carefully about all measurements. Also for the collar because with my trucker jacket the collar circumference is a little big.
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Fantasy...these are measurements for me))))) perfect!

 

[MrProper]

That is very helpful @MrProper, in some pictures I can see no difference between rounded shoulder and pointy shoulder, it looks same, can you enlighten me what exactly is rounded shoulder?
Vanson B has pointy shoulder but won't bunch up when raising your arm from side.

Maybe I'm completely wrong and it's a placebo effect.
But I think that with my jackets, the sleeves of which are sewn on at a more acute angle, lift more than with the others if I lift my arm. Then the material of the sleeve somehow slides under the material of the shoulder and lifts it up. With the round shoulders, it is shifted more evenly.
Anyway, I definitely like it better lol
Probably the pros can say more about it here.

Vanson B has a action back? Maybe that is a possible explanation?

 

[Hh121]

Maybe I'm completely wrong and it's a placebo effect.
But I think that with my jackets, the sleeves of which are sewn on at a more acute angle, lift more than with the others if I lift my arm. Then the material of the sleeve somehow slides under the material of the shoulder and lifts it up. With the round shoulders, it is shifted more evenly.
Anyway, I definitely like it better lol
Probably the pros can say more about it here.

Vanson B has a action back? Maybe that is a possible explanation?

Yes, but I think it is the combination of multiple good design. For example Vanson mercury and dominator (no underarm gusset, no action back), still got fantastic movement.

 

[MrProper]

Yes, but I think it is the combination of multiple good design. For example Vanson mercury and dominator (no underarm gusset, no action back), still got fantastic movement.

I really like the Vanson mercury. Does the jacket actually have a little more material on the underside of the sleeve or I'm wrong?
I have to see if I can get one with my measurements. then I can have a say lol

 

[Hh121]

View attachment 335579

I really like the Vanson mercury. Does the jacket actually have a little more material on the underside of the sleeve or I'm wrong?
I have to see if I can get one with my measurements. then I can have a say lol

No, just regular two piece sleeve. Here are some pics:

 

[Canuck Panda]

Mr Carlos! Look What you made me do! The Lewis Leather Mk1 has been calling me for a long time. And your post was the last little push I needed. Order has been placed. The battle for pattern mobility, brought to you by me, has now been set in motion. There can be only one...

Full disclosure. I am super bias towards 5 Star and Aero, and even Simmonsbilt. These three brands make up more than 2/3 of my collection. And in my experience, the weight of the leather, finishing, front quarters or sides leather, also has a lot to do with mobility.

My best mobility jacket is a "mall brand" Roots Canada jacket. Made in Canada with Riri zipper and 2oz deerskin and was under US $500 retail a few years ago. This is the only leather jacket I have worn while riding a bike, but has nothing to do with mobility. I only ride in the summer months, and the 2oz deerskin is even too hot during the heated weeks in August.

My 5star goatskin jackets are not far off from that, in terms of mobility, because Shawn's goat has a good stretch, even at 2.5 oz weight. I order my 5star goat jackets with quilted lining, which also gives stretch. This is why I don't worry about the mobility of my coming 5Star CXL jacket. My only worry there is the leather finish, not mobility.

Aero jackets are cut like British style suits. If it's good enough for James Bond it's good enough for me. Again I am super bias here because I own 5 Daytonas in different leather options. And FWIW, I can do a full US Marine fitness test in them, except the swimming part, unless I live in Hawaii too. Doing push ups and pull ups in stiff leather jackets burned my arms with red rashes but it's the fastest way to set the creases. Mr Proper this is why I like softer lining materials, especially in the arms.

Out of the three Highlanders, one of my SB V2 has the thickest leather, 4/5 oz, but is also the best mobility/fitting. It has a lot to do with the leather. The Horween Lux is a heavily milled (tumbled) leather and has a very soft temper.

What I am trying to say is that, my experience with 5Star, Aero, SB, and FL will not deter me from another repeat purchase because of "mobility issues". I did sell my Aero Cafe racer because it's not big enough for me, but that was on me. And if I am not too cheap to buy another Field Leather I would also size up because he cuts them really tight.

And hopefully very soon, I will see for myself just how different the Lewis Leather pattern is. I am sure my 5star CXL will come before that though. 5Star has the fastest turn around time compared to all other made to order brands.

 

[Hh121]

Mr Carlos! Look What you made me do! The Lewis Leather Mk1 has been calling me for a long time. And your post was the last little push I needed. Order has been placed. The battle for pattern mobility, brought to you by me, has now been set in motion. There can be only one...

Full disclosure. I am super bias towards 5 Star and Aero, and even Simmonsbilt. These three brands make up more than 2/3 of my collection. And in my experience, the weight of the leather, finishing, front quarters or sides leather, also has a lot to do with mobility.

My best mobility jacket is a "mall brand" Roots Canada jacket. Made in Canada with Riri zipper and 2oz deerskin and was under US $500 retail a few years ago. This is the only leather jacket I have worn while riding a bike, but has nothing to do with mobility. I only ride in the summer months, and the 2oz deerskin is even too hot during the heated weeks in August.

My 5star goatskin jackets are not far off from that, in terms of mobility, because Shawn's goat has a good stretch, even at 2.5 oz weight. I order my 5star goat jackets with quilted lining, which also gives stretch. This is why I don't worry about the mobility of my coming 5Star CXL jacket. My only worry there is the leather finish, not mobility.

Aero jackets are cut like British style suits. If it's good enough for James Bond it's good enough for me. Again I am super bias here because I own 5 Daytonas in different leather options. And FWIW, I can do a full US Marine fitness test in them, except the swimming part, unless I live in Hawaii too. Doing push ups and pull ups in stiff leather jackets burned my arms with red rashes but it's the fastest way to set the creases. Mr Proper this is why I like softer lining materials, especially in the arms.

Out of the three Highlanders, one of my SB V2 has the thickest leather, 4/5 oz, but is also the best mobility/fitting. It has a lot to do with the leather. The Horween Lux is a heavily milled (tumbled) leather and has a very soft temper.

What I am trying to say is that, my experience with 5Star, Aero, SB, and FL will not deter me from another repeat purchase because of "mobility issues". I did sell my Aero Cafe racer because it's not big enough for me, but that was on me. And if I am not too cheap to buy another Field Leather I would also size up because he cuts them really tight.

And hopefully very soon, I will see for myself just how different the Lewis Leather pattern is. I am sure my 5star CXL will come before that though. 5Star has the fastest turn around time compared to all other made to order brands.




View attachment 335598

Fantastic, thank you!! I would love to hear more about your 5star cross button jackets

 

[Canuck Panda]

Fantastic, thank you!! I would love to hear more about your 5star cross button jackets

Thank you! I was afraid I was weird for liking a cross button jacket. It's a mash up of the three jackets I had my eyes on for a while.

I was too cheap for a Himel. He had one on sale before, the name your price sale. I offered him what an Aero would cost and he didn't go for it. His designs are cool but pricing isn't my cup of tea. Both BK and Aero version felt like it wasn't a good value either when I could get an actual cross zip with more details for about the same money. Then I stumbled back on this forum and started lurking on this thread. After seeing the Hawaiian guy's cross zip and your Horween half belt, I kinda just smashed everything together and asked Shawn to build me one. It was actually my first time getting into the half belt back design for shorter jackets. I don't know why I resisted it before and thought it was only for longer jackets. I was totally wrong. Half belt backs rocks, at any length.

The big thing is that I don't feel out of place for wearing the button cross zip to the office. It feels very low key but the double lapels gives it just enough oomph to look good. Don't know how to explain it. It's definitely not mainstream but also not costume y, at least to me. I will try another one down the road with a different pocket setup though, like cargo pockets with hand warmers.

 

[Hh121]

Thank you! I was afraid I was weird for liking a cross button jacket. It's a mash up of the three jackets I had my eyes on for a while.
View attachment 335625
I was too cheap for a Himel. He had one on sale before, the name your price sale. I offered him what an Aero would cost and he didn't go for it. His designs are cool but pricing isn't my cup of tea. Both BK and Aero version felt like it wasn't a good value either when I could get an actual cross zip with more details for about the same money. Then I stumbled back on this forum and started lurking on this thread. After seeing the Hawaiian guy's cross zip and your Horween half belt, I kinda just smashed everything together and asked Shawn to build me one. It was actually my first time getting into the half belt back design for shorter jackets. I don't know why I resisted it before and thought it was only for longer jackets. I was totally wrong. Half belt backs rocks, at any length.

The big thing is that I don't feel out of place for wearing the button cross zip to the office. It feels very low key but the double lapels gives it just enough oomph to look good. Don't know how to explain it. It's definitely not mainstream but also not costume y, at least to me. I will try another one down the road with a different pocket setup though, like cargo pockets with hand warmers.

View attachment 335626

Is your 5star cross button wearable? How do you like it? If your answer is positive I think my next jacket from 5star will be cross zip!

 

[ton312]

Mr Carlos! Look What you made me do! The Lewis Leather Mk1 has been calling me for a long time. And your post was the last little push I needed. Order has been placed. The battle for pattern mobility, brought to you by me, has now been set in motion. There can be only one...

Full disclosure. I am super bias towards 5 Star and Aero, and even Simmonsbilt. These three brands make up more than 2/3 of my collection. And in my experience, the weight of the leather, finishing, front quarters or sides leather, also has a lot to do with mobility.

My best mobility jacket is a "mall brand" Roots Canada jacket. Made in Canada with Riri zipper and 2oz deerskin and was under US $500 retail a few years ago. This is the only leather jacket I have worn while riding a bike, but has nothing to do with mobility. I only ride in the summer months, and the 2oz deerskin is even too hot during the heated weeks in August.

My 5star goatskin jackets are not far off from that, in terms of mobility, because Shawn's goat has a good stretch, even at 2.5 oz weight. I order my 5star goat jackets with quilted lining, which also gives stretch. This is why I don't worry about the mobility of my coming 5Star CXL jacket. My only worry there is the leather finish, not mobility.

Aero jackets are cut like British style suits. If it's good enough for James Bond it's good enough for me. Again I am super bias here because I own 5 Daytonas in different leather options. And FWIW, I can do a full US Marine fitness test in them, except the swimming part, unless I live in Hawaii too. Doing push ups and pull ups in stiff leather jackets burned my arms with red rashes but it's the fastest way to set the creases. Mr Proper this is why I like softer lining materials, especially in the arms.

Out of the three Highlanders, one of my SB V2 has the thickest leather, 4/5 oz, but is also the best mobility/fitting. It has a lot to do with the leather. The Horween Lux is a heavily milled (tumbled) leather and has a very soft temper.

What I am trying to say is that, my experience with 5Star, Aero, SB, and FL will not deter me from another repeat purchase because of "mobility issues". I did sell my Aero Cafe racer because it's not big enough for me, but that was on me. And if I am not too cheap to buy another Field Leather I would also size up because he cuts them really tight.

And hopefully very soon, I will see for myself just how different the Lewis Leather pattern is. I am sure my 5star CXL will come before that though. 5Star has the fastest turn around time compared to all other made to order brands.




View attachment 335598

Beautiful line up of jackets!!

 

[Wardo1974]

I wonder how much of 5*'s business is from a bunch of middle aged hipsters from this site, sending obscure designs to his shop from overseas.

Shawn: Sanjay, put down that naan, I just received another pattern from Mr. Tony.

Sanjay: Again?! Why can't we just make plain bomber jackets? *Curses fruitily in Urdu*

 

[ton312]

I wonder how much of 5*'s business is from a bunch of middle aged hipsters from this site, sending obscure designs to his shop from overseas.

Shawn: Sanjay, put down that naan, I just received another pattern from Mr. Tony.

Sanjay: Again?! Why can't we just make plain bomber jackets? *Curses fruitily in Urdu*

LOL. I’m excited to see yours. Is it underway?

 

[Canuck Panda]

Is your 5star cross button wearable? How do you like it? If your answer is positive I think my next jacket from 5star will be cross zip!

My 5Star Cross Button is in Goatskin, so it's stretchy and soft. No restriction in movements.

I have not experienced non stretch stiff leather from Shawn in the cross zip style pattern. I will soon. If you can wait, I got one coming, then I can tell you for sure how the stiff horsehide works with the Shawn's cross zip pattern.

If you go with the "premium weight" goat, which I think is just marketing, you will be just fine. Ask for thickest seal goatskin, it should be average 2.5 oz, you won't be disappointed. The other colors, russet and conic looks kinda flat.

 

[Wardo1974]

LOL. I’m excited to see yours. Is it underway?

I'm excited myself. Right when I finalized my order details, they shut down for 10 days from Covid.

Shawn told me it's getting done this week. I'm hoping I got the specs right. I basically went with measurements from a handful of other jackets I had/have and hoped for the best.

To tide myself over I got a Brooks Brothers Cafe racer on eBay 2 weeks ago. Size 48, which is rare, but still didn't fit right. I got a tailor to take in the hem by 6 inches in circumference and the pits by a half inch. It isn't bad but still not what I had in mind.