Five Star Leather Jackets

[jadub]

Shawn said he can produce aniline steerhide on demand if the quantity is big enough.
Who of you would have a fundamental interest in aniline steerhide?
Maybe we can get the amount we need

I'm in depending on color and weight if those are choices.

 

[abone]

Shawn said he can produce aniline steerhide on demand if the quantity is big enough.
Who of you would have a fundamental interest in aniline steerhide?
Maybe we can get the amount we need

Not familiar with this type of hide. Is it thick and robust? Dyed right through? Suitable for a cross-zip style?

 

[MrProper]

cool. thank you all very much. i will ask shawn to join this thread.

 

[ton312]

cool. thank you all very much. i will ask shawn to join this thread.

Some sample shots when he arrives would be good!

 

[Riu]

Shawn said he can produce aniline steerhide on demand if the quantity is big enough.
Who of you would have a fundamental interest in aniline steerhide?
Maybe we can get the amount we need

I'll have it for my project if we get it. I'd also like to see how it looks by the way

 

[PilotJens]

Can someone maybe pin point me in the right direction in terms of measurements for my next purchase ?
How do I make the forearm taper a little?
Do I go smaller on the cuff width or do I spec a 1cm taper below the elbow?

My specifications were 25cm arm opening and 12cm cuff .My other of the rack jacket has the same measurements but looks much more tapered .
I don't want to grow out of it
I have tooth pick 16cm circumference arms but big hands .Should you be able to put your hand through without opening the cuff?


My ill fitting A2 has 22cm arm opening and 12cm before the ribbons .

I want to order shawns Cossack with the patch pockets . I don't want a Cafe racer sleeve but I get confused on how little cut differences with the same arm and cuff measurements make such a difference.
It should still have a period correct cut.

Any help and guidance is appreciated

 

[ton312]

Can someone maybe pin point me in the right direction in terms of measurements for my next purchase ?
How do I make the forearm taper a little?
Do I go smaller on the cuff width or do I spec a 1cm taper below the elbow?

My specifications were 25cm arm opening and 12cm cuff .My other of the rack jacket has the same measurements but looks much more tapered .
I don't want to grow out of it
I have tooth pick 16cm circumference arms but big hands .Should you be able to put your hand through without opening the cuff?


My ill fitting A2 has 22cm arm opening and 12cm before the ribbons .

I want to order shawns Cossack with the patch pockets . I don't want a Cafe racer sleeve but I get confused on how little cut differences with the same arm and cuff measurements make such a difference.
It should still have a period correct cut.

Any help and guidance is appreciated

I provide bicep, elbow and cuff measurements and that seems to work. The All weather I spec’d with wide sleeves. The winter HB is spiced with trim sleeves and my latest that is in China has the trimmest yet.

 

[Hh121]

Can someone maybe pin point me in the right direction in terms of measurements for my next purchase ?
How do I make the forearm taper a little?
Do I go smaller on the cuff width or do I spec a 1cm taper below the elbow?

My specifications were 25cm arm opening and 12cm cuff .My other of the rack jacket has the same measurements but looks much more tapered .
I don't want to grow out of it
I have tooth pick 16cm circumference arms but big hands .Should you be able to put your hand through without opening the cuff?


My ill fitting A2 has 22cm arm opening and 12cm before the ribbons .

I want to order shawns Cossack with the patch pockets . I don't want a Cafe racer sleeve but I get confused on how little cut differences with the same arm and cuff measurements make such a difference.
It should still have a period correct cut.

Any help and guidance is appreciated

 

[PilotJens]

Thanks for the info on your pattern .Seems like they really keep the specs of the person who developed it with them .I liked the fit for a a bad weather layering jacket and seeing your winter half belt makes me regret not getting the detachable fur collar .

The Cossack looks tapered so I will most likely keep my measurements .The Himmel Bros heron seems to have some room at the cuffs too

 

[PilotJens]

That makes sense thanks .

View attachment 324962 View attachment 324967

 

[MrProper]

I had specified armhole, biceps, elbow and cuff.
With a cossack I would make the cuffs so tight that the hands just go out when the cuff is closed. they are tighter with a zipper.

At the Cossack I would make sure that the front drop doesn't get too big. it would take a maximum of 1 inch. especially since shawn always starts the front drop at the side seam. wanted to start it with my CR at the back seams. did not work out that way.

cossack:

 

[Bahabp100]

I had specified armhole, biceps, elbow and cuff.
With a cossack I would make the cuffs so tight that the hands just go out when the cuff is closed. they are tighter with a zipper.

At the Cossack I would make sure that the front drop doesn't get too big. it would take a maximum of 1 inch. especially since shawn always starts the front drop at the side seam. wanted to start it with my CR at the back seams. did not work out that way.

cossack:
View attachment 325185 View attachment 325186 View attachment 325187

Armhole is a key measurement

 

[Hh121]

Big news, Shawn is now developing a same kind of leather like Horween CXL(same thickness) in his tannery, he will show the result to me soon.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Big news, Shawn is now developing a same kind of leather like Horween CXL(same thickness) in his tannery, he will show the result to me soon.

Oh snap, potential game changer.

 

[Riu]

Big news, Shawn is now developing a same kind of leather like Horween CXL(same thickness) in his tannery, he will show the result to me soon.

I want to see that too!

 

[PilotJens]

Reverse engineering cxl leather?
Oh boy I see bad times for some of the major brands or even bright times since some of European tanneries went bankrupt because of Corona and some brands are searching for new reliable suppliers .I can see five star venturing into denim and wool items at some point .

 

[Morecowbell]

Hi everyone -

Wanted to ask about thread color - to contrast or not to contrast? Can anyone share some contrasting thread examples, thoughts, successes, regrets?

I just got samples from Shawn, leather and knits but no thread. I'm looking at doing an A-1 with the seal horsehide and (probably) olive knits. He sent me a shot of an A-2 in this color combo with contrasting (Cognac) thread and it looks great (below), but my wife pointed out that contrasting thread will tend to accentuate any sewing issues. I'm not as concerned about that as the overall look - that it looks cool in a detail but might be too much in an entire jacket. I will see if he can send pics of the whole jacket, but was also curious to see what people have done?

This is the Five Star in seal goat/olive knits/cognac thread:

Many thanks!

 

[navetsea]

Can someone maybe pin point me in the right direction in terms of measurements for my next purchase ?
How do I make the forearm taper a little?
Do I go smaller on the cuff width or do I spec a 1cm taper below the elbow?

My specifications were 25cm arm opening and 12cm cuff .My other of the rack jacket has the same measurements but looks much more tapered .
I don't want to grow out of it
I have tooth pick 16cm circumference arms but big hands .Should you be able to put your hand through without opening the cuff?


My ill fitting A2 has 22cm arm opening and 12cm before the ribbons .

I want to order shawns Cossack with the patch pockets . I don't want a Cafe racer sleeve but I get confused on how little cut differences with the same arm and cuff measurements make such a difference.
It should still have a period correct cut.

Any help and guidance is appreciated

With buttoned cuff i do 13cm flat, no need to unbutton to slide the hand through

 

[Riu]

Hi everyone -

Wanted to ask about thread color - to contrast or not to contrast? Can anyone share some contrasting thread examples, thoughts, successes, regrets?

I just got samples from Shawn, leather and knits but no thread. I'm looking at doing an A-1 with the seal horsehide and (probably) olive knits. He sent me a shot of an A-2 in this color combo with contrasting (Cognac) thread and it looks great (below), but my wife pointed out that contrasting thread will tend to accentuate any sewing issues. I'm not as concerned about that as the overall look - that it looks cool in a detail but might be too much in an entire jacket. I will see if he can send pics of the whole jacket, but was also curious to see what people have done?

This is the Five Star in seal goat/olive knits/cognac thread:

Many thanks!

I know @torfjord had his trucker done with contrast stitching and it came out really good.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threadattachments/101762/page-34

 

[torfjord]

I’ll chime in in regards to contrast stitching. I’m generally not a fan of it tbh. It works for some styles but not on others imo. I went with it for my trucker since I wanted to connect it to the denim version which does have contrast stitching. I think it turned out great. Fivestar has solid stitch work and I wouldn’t be worried that a contrast thread would highlight errors. On my jacket there are no big mistakes with the stitching. There are a couple of small ones, but they are not that visible.

detail shots