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Five Star Leather Jackets

DLSV1983

New in Town
Messages
4
Hello to all and Happy New Year.

So i have been a lurker for awhile now and just got up to date with all the messages that have been posted in this forum.

Back in November i decided to order a semi custom leather jacket based on the Bauer G1 with some modifications. I started by measuring a bomber suede jacket I have as suggested in the 5* website. I really like how it fits me tight to my body and "slim fit". Bare in mind I am 5'-10" tall and weigh 260 lbs, so not a slim guy at all :D

I sent pictures and measurements of my own suede jacket through email to Shawn and discussed the changes in design I wanted for the G1 that I was going to order:


measurements.jpg


The overall pattern of the Bauer G1 would stay the same and the changes were mainly in the cuffs, I didn't want the elastic wool cuffs and instead went for leather button closer cuffs, also added a chest pocket (specified right side) with YKK brass zipper, brass ball chain puller on chest pocket, olive green cotton liner and olive elastic hem, brown grey mutton collar, and all buffalo horn buttons. For the leather I decided to go with the premium seal brown Goatskin.

After some back and forth emails with Shawn he sent me a PayPal invoice ($310 shipping included), after some pics of development process from Shawn I received an email about 2 weeks later telling me that the jacket was done, Shawn sent some measurement pics for my approval which I checked and were ok, and then sent me the DHL tracking number. After 4 days I received the jacket at my door.

Opening the package was great, really nice packaging and presentation. After opening the bag were the jacket laid inside the smell of leather was nice. Unfolded the jacket and at first glimpse seemed that it would be too small for my body. I wasn't wrong, tried it on and it was veeery tight in my shoulders, arms, and the sleeves.

IMG_5666.JPEG


IMG_5667.JPEG


The overall quality was amazing, I was impressed with the weight of the jacket and the quality of the leather. The construction and craftsmanship was impeccable; however, the fit was really off. It would not close on the front for about 3 inches more, the shoulders were so tight! and on the side pic you can see how the gussets stretched so much they opened and made a weird shape on the back. The sleeves were too long and too tight.

IMG_5855.JPEG


IMG_5664.JPEG


I took the jacket off and measured it and the overall measurements were off by 1" sometimes even 1.5" from what I ordered. The weird thing is that Shawn sent me measurement pics before sending the jacket, but they were not the same as the jacket I received o_O something was off.

Part 2 coming....
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,374
Location
Europe
Hello to all and Happy New Year.

So i have been a lurker for awhile now and just got up to date with all the messages that have been posted in this forum.

Back in November i decided to order a semi custom leather jacket based on the Bauer G1 with some modifications. I started by measuring a bomber suede jacket I have as suggested in the 5* website. I really like how it fits me tight to my body and "slim fit". Bare in mind I am 5'-10" tall and weigh 260 lbs, so not a slim guy at all :D

I sent pictures and measurements of my own suede jacket through email to Shawn and discussed the changes in design I wanted for the G1 that I was going to order:


View attachment 577202

The overall pattern of the Bauer G1 would stay the same and the changes were mainly in the cuffs, I didn't want the elastic wool cuffs and instead went for leather button closer cuffs, also added a chest pocket (specified right side) with YKK brass zipper, brass ball chain puller on chest pocket, olive green cotton liner and olive elastic hem, brown grey mutton collar, and all buffalo horn buttons. For the leather I decided to go with the premium seal brown Goatskin.

After some back and forth emails with Shawn he sent me a PayPal invoice ($310 shipping included), after some pics of development process from Shawn I received an email about 2 weeks later telling me that the jacket was done, Shawn sent some measurement pics for my approval which I checked and were ok, and then sent me the DHL tracking number. After 4 days I received the jacket at my door.

Opening the package was great, really nice packaging and presentation. After opening the bag were the jacket laid inside the smell of leather was nice. Unfolded the jacket and at first glimpse seemed that it would be too small for my body. I wasn't wrong, tried it on and it was veeery tight in my shoulders, arms, and the sleeves.

View attachment 577219

View attachment 577220

The overall quality was amazing, I was impressed with the weight of the jacket and the quality of the leather. The construction and craftsmanship was impeccable; however, the fit was really off. It would not close on the front for about 3 inches more, the shoulders were so tight! and on the side pic you can see how the gussets stretched so much they opened and made a weird shape on the back. The sleeves were too long and too tight.

View attachment 577214

View attachment 577218

I took the jacket off and measured it and the overall measurements were off by 1" sometimes even 1.5" from what I ordered. The weird thing is that Shawn sent me measurement pics before sending the jacket, but they were not the same as the jacket I received o_O something was off.

Part 2 coming....
As this is not the first time this has happened, I suspect the people involved at 5* of fraudulent intent. Maybe not fraudulent, but they want to cover up their mistakes.
In other words, whoever messed up the measurements is placing the jacket in such a way that the ordered measurements are displayed. Either because the jacket is folded and stretched accordingly, or because the photos do not show the complete measuring tape.
So anyone ordering from 5* would do well to inspect the photos very carefully and, if there is the slightest doubt, request new photos before the jacket is dispatched.
Now you will probably get the usual 50% off a new jacket and can see for yourself how you can get rid of the failed attempt.
I'm sorry for you.
 

DLSV1983

New in Town
Messages
4
part 2....

So I sent Shawn an email explaining the whole situation, even sent a video showing the suede jacket dimensions and the dimensions that were off on the G1 jacket I received. Mainly in the chest area and the shoulders it was inches off.

After 3 days 5* replied to my email. They said that since the goatskin leather is thicker than the suede jacket, the measurements of the suede jacket wouldn't work for the G1 jacket (they should have specified that to me earlier) They asked for all around body measurements and said they could remake the jacket again with the correct measurements. I sent them this images:

IMG_5680.JPEG
IMG_5687.JPEG


And also sent him the changes I wanted to make to the jacket I received: The chest pocket should have been on the other side, arm width dimensions bigger, sleeve length slightly shorter. The liner olive cotton but with satin olive sleeves for easier to put on and off. The rest of the design stayed the same (of course with new dimensions).

They sent an email back to me with their own measurement suggestions which to me they were too generous and would make the jacket look baggy. So I sent them an image with the final dimensions I wanted for the redo of the jacket, and also asked them how much the cost would be for the rebuilt.

new measurements.jpg


They went with my measurements and agreed to the changes, but said that for the rebuild of the jacket they would give me a 20% off of the total cost ($248 extra at my cost) and keep the old jacket I have received. I was not ok with only a 20% off since it was not my fault that the jacket was off in the original dimensions I sent, so I was expecting at least a 50% off for the redo. I sent an email explaining this and giving proofs on my case. They replied excusing themselves and told me not to worry... which made me wonder what was their final solution?

After 5 days I received an email from Shawn with the completion of the redo jacket with measurements and approval from me to ship through DHL. I was surprised since we didn't agreed on a solution, but I did approve the new jacket and received the new jacket two days before Christmas eve. (lucky me perfect Christmas gift)

The new jacket is perfect! same quality and craftsmanship. They made all the changed I wanted and with the correct measurements this time around. The only thing they left out was the U.S.N painted logo on the back of the collar which I don't mind not having.

Here are some fit pics. Might look a bit fitted to my body, but that was the way I wanted it to look:

IMG_5856.JPEG

IMG_5857.JPEG

IMG_5858.JPEG


I am happy with the jacket now. And I am really thankful to the 5* team for understanding the situation and sending me a rebuild jacket that really fits me.

Have a great weekend y'all!!! :)
 

DLSV1983

New in Town
Messages
4
As this is not the first time this has happened, I suspect the people involved at 5* of fraudulent intent. Maybe not fraudulent, but they want to cover up their mistakes.
In other words, whoever messed up the measurements is placing the jacket in such a way that the ordered measurements are displayed. Either because the jacket is folded and stretched accordingly, or because the photos do not show the complete measuring tape.
So anyone ordering from 5* would do well to inspect the photos very carefully and, if there is the slightest doubt, request new photos before the jacket is dispatched.
Now you will probably get the usual 50% off a new jacket and can see for yourself how you can get rid of the failed attempt.
I'm sorry for you.

read part 2.. They did the rebuild for free.. although I do have the old jacket to get rid off lol
 

TartuWolf

One Too Many
Messages
1,249
Location
Tartu, Estonia
Very lucky that you got a free remake in the end, but the whole experience still seems very awkward and unpleasant and would have left a sour taste in my mouth, more in terms of communication than in terms of the final result. Had you not pushed hard enough you might have had to pay 80% for the rebuild.
 

DLSV1983

New in Town
Messages
4
Very lucky that you got a free remake in the end, but the whole experience still seems very awkward and unpleasant and would have left a sour taste in my mouth, more in terms of communication than in terms of the final result. Had you not pushed hard enough you might have had to pay 80% for the rebuild.
true, I had a very good case on my part and they agreed that it was not completely my fault on the incorrect dimensions. Now I have a jacket that fits well and really like and another for sale or give away.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,998
You should have just gone for a stock G-1 size that would fit, so you weren't reliant on Five Star's pattern work, and added that chest pocket and cuff change. In practice this means a stock G-1 pattern where the hem is big enough.

I constantly push against the inflated faith people have in dictating specific measurements, especially using something like a suede fashion bomber as the basis.

The only way to make Five Star work is when their patterning is not involved at all and you're using a copied historic pattern instead.
 

PilotJens

A-List Customer
Messages
347
So today I took apart a vanson A2 Style Jacket .Look at the sleeve pattern .I think nobody has had "evidence" of the curve in patterns as of now .As a bad leather worker I can see why jackets with a a 3 piece sleeves designs (partition at the underarm ) have more range of motion .The partition allows for a easy transition to make a straight lined curve . A two piece sleeve takes some effort to shape and stretch in order to get a good topseam later .
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,998
So today I took apart a vanson A2 Style Jacket .Look at the sleeve pattern .I think nobody has had "evidence" of the curve in patterns as of now .As a bad leather worker I can see why jackets with a a 3 piece sleeves designs (partition at the underarm ) have more range of motion .The partition allows for a easy transition to make a straight lined curve . A two piece sleeve takes some effort to shape and stretch in order to get a good topseam later .

I think the picture didn't attach properly.
 

PilotJens

A-List Customer
Messages
347
What I am going to do with this dry rotted thing is a question that I have to answer myself later .I hope I can attach a new lining and repair the ripped leather lol
 

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PilotJens

A-List Customer
Messages
347
I think this is also why replications based on measurements never really fitted the same because you didn't have 1,5-2 inches of room for your elbow.

I can dissect a five star to prove my straight line theory.


Their shearling jackets do have this curve
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,998
I think this is also why replications based on measurements never really fitted the same because you didn't have 1,5-2 inches of room for your elbow.

I can dissect a five star to prove my straight line theory.


Their shearling jackets do have this curve

Probably because their shearling patterns are copied off of original B-3s and Irvins that were sent to them.
 

PilotJens

A-List Customer
Messages
347
My first five star a few years ago.
Curved sleeves but I didn't add too many specifications.12cm cuff 25cm arm opening.Ended up with 13-13.5cm cuff but I have full range of motion.
 

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PilotJens

A-List Customer
Messages
347
So I have a feeling that you set yourself up for failure if you don't let their pattern makers do their job. Don't require measurements between the arm opening and cuff . Otherwise they will just connect the dots you gave them under the premise of made to customers specifications.
Arm opening and cuff should give them a vage idea of your arms proportions. Maybe add that you want baggy or slim fitting sleeves
 

Eddiesuave

Familiar Face
Messages
84
As this is not the first time this has happened, I suspect the people involved at 5* of fraudulent intent. Maybe not fraudulent, but they want to cover up their mistakes.
In other words, whoever messed up the measurements is placing the jacket in such a way that the ordered measurements are displayed. Either because the jacket is folded and stretched accordingly, or because the photos do not show the complete measuring tape.
So anyone ordering from 5* would do well to inspect the photos very carefully and, if there is the slightest doubt, request new photos before the jacket is dispatched.
Now you will probably get the usual 50% off a new jacket and can see for yourself how you can get rid of the failed attempt.
I'm sorry for you.
I can agree they have done this a lot, but so did Aero and Thurston Bros. Must be a leather maker tradition.
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,374
Location
Europe
I can agree they have done this a lot, but so did Aero and Thurston Bros. Must be a leather maker tradition.
I have never received any photos of Aero jackets in advance. So I can't say anything about that. In addition, Aero reserves the right to a tolerance of 0.5" more or less.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,998
I can agree they have done this a lot, but so did Aero and Thurston Bros. Must be a leather maker tradition.

I have not had this experience of Aero or Thurston…

Denim/workwear stores on the other hand do measure leather jackets terribly, possibly because they don't know how?
 

Eddiesuave

Familiar Face
Messages
84
I have never received any photos of Aero jackets in advance. So I can't say anything about that. In addition, Aero reserves the right to a tolerance of 0.5" more or less.
I have not had this experience of Aero or Thurston…

Denim/workwear stores on the other hand do measure leather jackets terribly, possibly because they don't know how?
Got mine a couple inches off after they confirmed it to be on the dot, they didn’t know shoulder or chest measurements on set sizes either. Could be just a fluke on my order. It’s nothing terrible and I don’t mean to slander their name, I honestly just thought that was the name of the game here with leather wear. It’s hard work and mistakes aren’t as easily fixed as one could wish. Still very happy with my jackets from them. I’ve come to terms with sizing just being off everywhere at this point, so I’ll take them as they come now.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,998
Got mine a couple inches off after they confirmed it to be on the dot, they didn’t know shoulder or chest measurements on set sizes either. Could be just a fluke on my order. It’s nothing terrible and I don’t mean to slander their name, I honestly just thought that was the name of the game here with leather wear. It’s hard work and mistakes aren’t as easily fixed as one could wish. Still very happy with my jackets from them. I’ve come to terms with sizing just being off everywhere at this point, so I’ll take them as they come now.

I expect Aero or Thurston would outright take the jacket back if they'd sold it with the wrong measurements confirmed to you.
 

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