Five Star Leather Jackets

[Rugby]

Daylight without sun. A few snowflakes have mixed in.
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Now this is the perfect fit. The professor has done it again. @MrProper thanks for sharing the pdf with the detailed requirements.
What's the hide of this jacket?

 

[MrProper]

Thanks, it looks good anyway! How is the movement?

Movement is very good. Wears more like a sports jacket than a leather jacket. Like my Lewis Leather Corsair the perfect grab'n'go jacket.

@MrProper, @Canuck Panda have either of you have had one made in the Crystal brown goat? I’m looking to have a goatskin made. Thanks

Unfortunately no. I have black, seal and russet. Black and seal I like well, russet not.

Funny you mentioned the marketing potential of a @MrProper fit. Obviously somebody shares your opinion. I stumbled across this eBay listing last night. The front and rear pictures aren’t even of the same J-24 style jacket. But that fit!

Men’s Vintage Distressed Motorcycle Biker Black Faded Real Cow Leather Jacket | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Men’s Vintage Distressed Motorcycle Biker Black Faded Real Cow Leather Jacket at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Funny. There they have mixed the pictures of the Aero Ridley and the Café Racer from 5*. I'll give them a shout out.
Thanks for showing.

 

[MrProper]

Now this is the perfect fit. The professor has done it again. @MrProper thanks for sharing the pdf with the detailed requirements.
What's the hide of this jacket?

This is the pull-up horsehide 1.2 mm.
But is not uniformly thick. Wears absolutely comfortable.

 

[Rugby]

This is the pull-up horsehide 1.2 mm.
But is not uniformly thick. Wears absolutely comfortable.

Excellent! This exact same design and hide, in black, is one of the two I'm planning to order after I get all the sizing...misunderstandings straightened out. The other one is the cossack.
have you had any 5* jacket made out of buffalo? I guess pakistani buffalo is not the same as what we call buffalo here in the US.

 

[MrProper]

Excellent! This exact same design and hide, in black, is one of the two I'm planning to order after I get all the sizing...misunderstandings straightened out. The other one is the cossack.
have you had any 5* jacket made out of buffalo? I guess pakistani buffalo is not the same as what we call buffalo here in the US.

No, no buffalo yet. I had thought about it a few times, but somehow I'm afraid I won't like it. In the photos it always came to me a little like plastic.

 

[Damon141]

Funny you mentioned the marketing potential of a @MrProper fit. Obviously somebody shares your opinion. I stumbled across this eBay listing last night. The front and rear pictures aren’t even of the same J-24 style jacket. But that fit!

Men’s Vintage Distressed Motorcycle Biker Black Faded Real Cow Leather Jacket | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Men’s Vintage Distressed Motorcycle Biker Black Faded Real Cow Leather Jacket at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

That’s insane, they know a good fit when they see them. Before I joined this site I knew nothing about measurements on a jacket and thought anything with my chest circumference would work, how wrong I was.

They should always give the measurements of not only the jacket but the man wearing them in their photos, like standardandstrange. If you notice selfedge sometimes does and mostly not. When they do it’s always a guy 6’1” to 6’2” wearing a size 40.
The average make height here in the USA is closer to 5’8” I think and that’s probably around average chest size, so what is an average guy going to look like in a jacket made for someone 6’2”?
They really need at the very least 3 different sizes, short, regular, and long. I bet that’s why you see so many high end brands not even broken in on marketplace sites.

 

[Rugby]

That’s insane, they know a good fit when they see them. Before I joined this site I knew nothing about measurements on a jacket and thought anything with my chest circumference would work, how wrong I was.

They should always give the measurements of not only the jacket but the man wearing them in their photos, like standardandstrange. If you notice selfedge sometimes does and mostly not. When they do it’s always a guy 6’1” to 6’2” wearing a size 40.
The average make height here in the USA is closer to 5’8” I think and that’s probably around average chest size, so what is an average guy going to look like in a jacket made for someone 6’2”?
They really need at the very least 3 different sizes, short, regular, and long. I bet that’s why you see so many high end brands not even broken in on marketplace sites.

I think one of the problems is that most makers suffer from market muscle memory, which is, they've been constructing garments for the average sized person who is, as you say 5'8" and shapes like a trapezoid

so when someone asks to have something that does not fall within that pattern, (invert the above shape) they get...confused. ergo the necessity for the level of detail that @MrProper provides.

 

[Aloysius]

Excellent! This exact same design and hide, in black, is one of the two I'm planning to order after I get all the sizing...misunderstandings straightened out. The other one is the cossack.
have you had any 5* jacket made out of buffalo? I guess pakistani buffalo is not the same as what we call buffalo here in the US.

I assume Buffalo in Shawn’s case means water Buffalo, so think a big cow, not a bison.

 

[Gr8Lakes]

That’s insane, they know a good fit when they see them. Before I joined this site I knew nothing about measurements on a jacket and thought anything with my chest circumference would work, how wrong I was.

They should always give the measurements of not only the jacket but the man wearing them in their photos, like standardandstrange. If you notice selfedge sometimes does and mostly not. When they do it’s always a guy 6’1” to 6’2” wearing a size 40.
The average make height here in the USA is closer to 5’8” I think and that’s probably around average chest size, so what is an average guy going to look like in a jacket made for someone 6’2”?
They really need at the very least 3 different sizes, short, regular, and long. I bet that’s why you see so many high end brands not even broken in on marketplace sites.

Pretty much the same here. I have a few leather mall jackets (J-Crew, Eddie Bauer, Lucky, an obscure named aviator type, and a couple motorcycle jackets - H.D., Hudson). About two and half years and ago life walloped me with the loss of my only brother, and then shortly after my father. Both were unexpected and quick. The stress alone cost me about sixty pounds, which I frankly needed to lose. I’ve altered my diet to keep the weight off, but 225 lbs to 170 lbs is a pretty drastic size difference - nothing fits anymore.

In my quest to find a new, casual, brown leather jacket, I discovered box stores just don’t carry many leather jackets anymore (Perhaps correlated to the pandemic?). Gone are the days of going to a store to try on a casual leather jacket, especially one that’s not “vegan” (the marketing term for “plastic”!) - And I tried many stores.

Ordered a couple different jackets from online retailers and found my shoulder/chest/height combination is not in the traditional sizing demographic. Jackets were too long and too baggy in the belly and waist - but I need a long arm length. So, down the rabbit hole I went.

Fortunately I discovered TFL, which has been a tremendous resource with regards to custom sizing jackets. But now I can’t help but dream of beautifully aged vintage jackets, and reproductions that are custom tailored. Fortunately I’ve been able to show financial restraint, but this is more out of necessity. Imagine having to replace your entire wardrobe, underwear and all, in one year... it really adds up. Thankfully, foot size doesn’t really change with weight loss.

But I believe I’m now hooked. And there will be a certain excitement that comes with my first true vintage jacket.

 

[ojaw]

I think one of the problems is that most makers suffer from market muscle memory, which is, they've been constructing garments for the average sized person who is, as you say 5'8" and shapes like a trapezoid View attachment 415404
so when someone asks to have something that does not fall within that pattern, (invert the above shape) they get...confused. ergo the necessity for the level of detail that @MrProper provides.

Not been my experience, try finding tops of any kind that properly fit narrow shoulders, small chest and wide hips. At 5’10.5” and 150lbs I’m not carrying a lot of extra weight so the problem isn’t at the waist, it’s lower down.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@MrProper, @Canuck Panda have either of you have had one made in the Crystal brown goat? I’m looking to have a goatskin made. Thanks

I only have the conic goatskin. It’s flat pigment finished leather.
If Crystal brown goat is the same as the veg (re) tan goat used on the Dubow then it looks to be good stuff semi aniline leather. But I thought that was a one run only.

 

[Damon141]

My five star sleeves gave birth today.
After a few days of manipulation with a thermos cup and flower vase I have gained almost 2cm flat or maybe 3.5 cm circumference in the sleeve/cuff opening. And a decent amount in the forearm area also.

Will it stay? Who knows but it’s noticeably more comfortable and with more work and better “molds” I think it can get even better.

 

[Aloysius]

My five star sleeves gave birth today.
After a few days of manipulation with a thermos cup and flower vase I have gained almost 2cm flat or maybe 3.5 cm circumference in the sleeve/cuff opening. And a decent amount in the forearm area also.

Will it stay? Who knows but it’s noticeably more comfortable and with more work and better “molds” I think it can get even better.

Leave the vase in for a week or two, then sell the reverse embossed version at a premium

 

[Damon141]

I’ll take another picture of how it fits and it really makes a difference. Before I couldn’t zip the cuff.

I noticed Riu had a steerhide racer that looked glued to his forearm which could possibly help. Unless it’s really cold, skin tight leather is hot af. Idk how those old rock stars did it on stage while performing with leather pants. They probably had puddles in their boots

 

[Marc mndt]

@Canuck Panda are you still looking for a restoration / pattern project?

Goatskin Leather Sports Jacket Brown 30s Vintage Worn Mens Outerwear Talon Worn | eBay

Vind fantastische aanbiedingen voor Goatskin Leather Sports Jacket Brown 30s Vintage Worn Mens Outerwear Talon Worn. Winkel met vertrouwen.

www.ebay.nl

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Canuck Panda are you still looking for a restoration / pattern project?

Goatskin Leather Sports Jacket Brown 30s Vintage Worn Mens Outerwear Talon Worn | eBay

Vind fantastische aanbiedingen voor Goatskin Leather Sports Jacket Brown 30s Vintage Worn Mens Outerwear Talon Worn. Winkel met vertrouwen.

www.ebay.nl

thank you!

 

[MrProper]

Here are a few detailed pictures.

 

[Marc mndt]

Here are a few detailed pictures.
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Such a nice jacket!

 

[Damon141]

If that had a Badalassi leather or Shinki tag, that would be thousands

 

[Aloysius]

What is the going rate for a collared jacket like this in the new horsehide?

I think A-2s in horsehide were about 400.