Fit Pic/Opinion on new jacket (Local Jacket Maker)

[matchankh]

Hi everyone,

Just received a new leather jacket. This is my first custom/ proper jacket so I would like some opinion on the fit and maybe areas to improve on.

The maker of the jacket is local. Turnaround time is about a month. All in all I think the jacket turns out decent. I was measured in person and the maker basically determined all the measurements.

The thing I would change is maybe the length is a tad too long and I wouldn't mind if it was an inch shorter.

Also I think the back bunches up a bit and could be a little cleaner. However I am not sure what measurement needs to be changed to achieve that? Or maybe it will be better after the jacket is broken in more?.

Any opinion is welcomed and appreciated!

Have a good day eveyone

 

[tmitchell59]

I do recognize the Iconic Hercules heritage. Nice!

 

[navetsea]

I think it looks great, can be shorter that will also stop the back from bunching from being too long and hitting your backside. easiest fix would be just make the main zip shorter ( starts up higher with more splay from the hem line).

however leather jacket is not a suit, and back panel character is cool and so hard to get when the back is very clean, so your lower back bunching might be blessing in disguise, for now since it is new it looks unnatural, but after everything balance itself out and creases look neater and gravity affects it more, it might look perfect.

Leather is also looking top shelf

 

[handymike]

Overall, not bad- Congratulations!
Looks like you based this off of the Rainbow Country version. This style usually had a back length shorter than the front, and I agree that might help with the puffiness. There is also an aggressive taper in your jacket (shoulder to waist) that might account for some.

 

[matchankh]

I do recognize the Iconic Hercules heritage. Nice!

Thanks! Yes the rainbow country version of herculus is the jacket I ask him to based his design on haha

 

[matchankh]

Overall, not bad- Congratulations!
Looks like you based this off of the Rainbow Country version. This style usually had a back length shorter than the front, and I agree that might help with the puffiness. There is also an aggressive taper in your jacket (shoulder to waist) that might account for some.

I'm quite difficult to fit as Im quite short 5'7 ,workout regularly with an eight inch chest/waist drop. Have had some terrible experiences in the past with bespoke tailors which made jackets very boxy.

So I requested a strong taper. This jacket has a 21 p2p and 18inch at the hem. Front drop is about 1 inch

All in all I think he did a good job. Already thinking about a second one haha

 

[handymike]

With that kind of build, a cross-zip would suit you well, and it would look great! Keep it shorter. Lots of ideas in this thread:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/cross-zip-nation.100612/

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Fantastic. A little long, but nothing to worry about. Well within suitable range.

What kind of leather? Assuming it will get soft with breaking in, some of that back poofiness will go down.

 

[matchankh]

With that kind of build, a cross-zip would suit you well, and it would look great! Keep it shorter. Lots of ideas in this thread:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/cross-zip-nation.100612/

Actually before I receive this jacket I already placed order for an aero Hooch Hauler in tobacco badalassi. The addiction is real.

Need to figure out the sizing on that though. This jacket has a p2p of about 21. just 2 inches more than my raw chest measurement and it fits good. I was planning on getting the Hooch Hauler in a size 40 which will have a p2p of 21.75-22. Makes me wonder if I should size down to 38

 

[matchankh]

Fantastic. A little long, but nothing to worry about. Well within suitable range.

What kind of leather? Assuming it will get soft with breaking in, some of that back poofiness will go down.

It is a steerhide and the thickness should be around 1.4mm. Its quite soft already, does not stand on it's own brand new. The fit is quite snug but also not uncomfortable.

This local maker does not have much leather choices at all. When I visited his workshop I asked to see some horsehide and Brown leather but he said the quality is not as good as his black steerhide and do not recommend it. So basically there is only one choice.

 

[Jin431]

Hi everyone,

Just received a new leather jacket. This is my first custom/ proper jacket so I would like some opinion on the fit and maybe areas to improve on.

The maker of the jacket is local. Turnaround time is about a month. All in all I think the jacket turns out decent. I was measured in person and the maker basically determined all the measurements.

The thing I would change is maybe the length is a tad too long and I wouldn't mind if it was an inch shorter.

Also I think the back bunches up a bit and could be a little cleaner. However I am not sure what measurement needs to be changed to achieve that? Or maybe it will be better after the jacket is broken in more?.

Any opinion is welcomed and appreciated!

Have a good day eveyone

View attachment 359596 View attachment 359597 View attachment 359598 View attachment 359599 View attachment 359600

Your local jacket maker knows what he/she are doing! What's the name of their shop and location? Gotta give them props for their outstanding work. Looks great as it is but an inch off the back length would have been perfect like you mentioned. Shoulders have a nice shape and drape, body is perfectly trim, sleeves are trim as well without being too tight. Great design and construction too. Lovely creases already forming on the sleeves.

 

[TREEMAN]

I feel your pain. I’m a 42 jacket and wear 30 waist Levi’s. Hard to get the rite fit for sure. Making it that tight at the waist mite seem like the answer but it doesn’t work.
IMO it’s too long and has too much of a taper when zippered.

 

[matchankh]

Your local jacket maker knows what he/she are doing! What's the name of their shop and location? Gotta give them props for their outstanding work. Looks great as it is but an inch off the back length would have been perfect like you mentioned. Shoulders have a nice shape and drape, body is perfectly trim, sleeves are trim as well without being too tight. Great design and construction too. Lovely creases already forming on the sleeves.

The shop is called Tony Leathers, workshop based in Shanghai. I found this shop on the shopping site called Taobao (basically Amazon here). Price is reasonably too at around 400usd.

Leather choice like I said is very limited. But I think will send some Brown nappa badalassi over to him for a mister freedom style unlined campus jacket.

 

[matchankh]

I feel your pain. I’m a 42 jacket and wear 30 waist Levi’s. Hard to get the rite fit for sure. Making it that tight at the waist mite seem like the answer but it doesn’t work.
IMO it’s too long and has too much of a taper.

I asked for the taper to be strong tbf because Im tired of wearing jackets that feel empty at the waist. I think the jacket does follow my body shape pretty well. The jacket zips up easily and not tight at the waist at all.

I also have huge trouble getting jeans too. Thigh is always tight and waist super loose.
I think I should just stop working out lol.

 

[MrProper]

Congratulations. Very beautifully turned out.
I agree with you about the length. A little shorter and everything is good.
Tapering appeals to me. I have 4 inches from chest to hem myself and know exactly what you mean with too much room on the belly.

 

[Marc mndt]

The shop is called Tony Leathers,

Paging @ton312

 

[matchankh]

next project is on going

Badalssi Nappa

 

[ton312]

It looks outstanding to me!! I’ll take one! Where do I sign up!??

 

[Monitor]

Seems spot on to me.

 

[matchankh]

It looks outstanding to me!! I’ll take one! Where do I sign up!??

let me ask him for contact details. I think he mentioned he does have some overseas customers