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Fit Pic Evaluation Help - New Half Belt

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
I should add a detail that further diminishes the chance for making the change you mention: we've sold a fair number of these to those of celebrity status, which one would think are some pretty meticulous, appearance-conscious individuals. One of these is actor Adam Goldberg, who liked his so much that his character on the "Jim Gaffigan Show" (now filming season 2) was just outfitted with a Californian and the costume director loves it and others from the show have now ordered this same style, along with Windwards. This is info. Gary now knows, so it doesn't exactly make for a compelling argument to alter the style.
.

And that's precisely why I dislike the absurd reverence for banal celebrity culture. :D
 

GregO

One of the Regulars
Messages
258
Location
Delaware
I think the entire subject is also relevant to jacket size and individual wearing it. GregO is taller than I am and his Cal is 40L, while mine is a 40R. I think everything mentioned is even less pronounced on me at 5' 9" tall in a 40R vs. a 40L. Bigger sizes get longer, thus a 42, 44 & 46 will all have longer proportions in relation to placement of belt and pockets. Was sagen Sie?

Well, I'm not sure that's exactly what we're seeing. My 40L measures only a half an inch longer in the body than a 40R. Mine measures 24.5" -- the regular is spec'd at 24".

I primarily went with the long because I needed more sleeve length - the long gave me 1.25" extra (actual measurement) in the sleeve.

I should also probably add that I'm 5'10" and went with a Long. I've never ordered anything in my life that was sized "Long." But the long in this jacket measures out at 24.5" back length. A "long" at 24.5" inches!
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,511
Location
Chicago
Well, I'm not sure that's exactly what we're seeing. My 40L measures only a half an inch longer in the body than a 40R. Mine measures 24.5" -- the regular is spec'd at 24".

I primarily went with the long because I needed more sleeve length - the long gave me 1.25" extra (actual measurement) in the sleeve.

I should also probably add that I'm 5'10" and went with a Long. I've never ordered anything in my life that was sized "Long." But the long in this jacket measures out at 24.5" back length. A "long" at 24.5" inches!
Wow! The length looks really good but how in the actual hell is 24.5" a long????
 
Messages
17,511
Location
Chicago
I'd be terrified to order a jacket that length and we are about the same height...Thing is though that jacket looks like it was made from a cast for you. It's a PERFECT fit.
 

HPA Rep

Vendor
Messages
855
Location
New Jersey
Well, I'm not sure that's exactly what we're seeing. My 40L measures only a half an inch longer in the body than a 40R. Mine measures 24.5" -- the regular is spec'd at 24".

I primarily went with the long because I needed more sleeve length - the long gave me 1.25" extra (actual measurement) in the sleeve.

I should also probably add that I'm 5'10" and went with a Long. I've never ordered anything in my life that was sized "Long." But the long in this jacket measures out at 24.5" back length. A "long" at 24.5" inches!

But it looks a full inch longer, so this could be just the difference between two different individuals doing the measuring, which is something that is always prone to create disparities (I also measured the sleeve length and found it was dead on to spec.), and I actually tried your jacket on and it definitely looked long on me. When we measure, there is only one person who does this (moi) because you have to have a set control; otherwise, chaos and conflicts would prevail. And I sometimes have to measure something several times before I'm satisfied with what will be the defined number.

The style is intended to be short by design, which Gary and I have been trying to make clear since the beginning. It is for those who prefer a longer fit that the long was made, and for those who wanted a longer sleeve length that I argued for (and won) adding 0.5" to the sleeve length of a long. The result of this is that we stock longs, whereas we don't stock any other Eastman style in a long fitting, and we sell longs in this style to a fair number of buyers who would not normally buy a long in some other style. Most who buy longs are buying sizes 36-40 because the styles grade longer as they get bigger, thus the smaller sizes are shorter by design and someone who may not normally need a long will choose a long. But, on the other hand, some really like a short, nippy look (moi), and I had to talk Adam Goldberg into a 40L and he's 6' 2" tall; he liked the decidedly short look of the 40R on himself.

Calling an article of clothing a long is as subjective and relative as calling anything a 40 or 46; it's what the manufacturer wants it to be and no polizei is out there enforcing dimensions and standards.
 
Messages
11,167
Location
SoCal
Greg, the jacket is too long on you.
Taking the bottom up an inch or so (just above your back pockets) should fix the problem of the belt being too high for your taste. Luckily it's an easy fix.
The rest looks pretty darn good.
 

TREEMAN

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,568
Location
USA
Please forgive me half belt lovers....but I just can't like the back of that jacket. Dreadful IMO. Absolutely cannot figure out the placement of the belt.
 

GregO

One of the Regulars
Messages
258
Location
Delaware
Greg, the jacket is too long on you.
Taking the bottom up an inch or so (just above your back pockets) should fix the problem of the belt being too high for your taste. Luckily it's an easy fix.
The rest looks pretty darn good.

Thank you for the honest comment. Technically speaking, I think you are absolutely right. But most often (90 plus percent of the time) I wear my leathers casually, and casual for me means going untucked a good deal of the time. With a bit longer length, my untucked shirts fall just above the bottom hem of this jacket, so I think that it works well for me. I don't like the look of a shirt poking out beneath the hem of one's jacket. If worn as a traditional half belt with traditional garb, you are certainly correct that it's a bit long. I guess I'm adjusting my fit preferences for my style, sloppy as it may be.

But you raise a very good point. Thanks for the good feedback.
 
Messages
11,167
Location
SoCal
Some here argue that the belt SHOULD be that high (natural waist ala Leonardo da Vinci).
I tend to wear my shirts untucked too.
I just let it hang out...I don't really care :)
Congrats on the jacket Greg!
 

Superfluous

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,995
Location
Missing in action
Echoing what others have said: Fit is great, hard warmers are high, it's a keeper.

I agree that the ELMC leather is lighter than the Vicenza. Very wearable out of the box.

Enjoy your stellar new jacket.
 

HPA Rep

Vendor
Messages
855
Location
New Jersey
Here is some love for the Californian.

Your video work is always a treat and I thank you for taking the time to do this. There's not a bad jacket in the bunch; in fact, they are all gems! Your ELMC Cal. Walnut is in the same league as my ELMC Cal. Havana - no one is getting my jacket or the .45 ACP Series 70 I sleep with under my pillow.
 

ProteinNerd

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,902
Location
Sydney
While I've been critical of the pocket and half belt placement, for what its worth, I don't think it looks too long at all...perfect as an adaption to modern jeans etc
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,750
Location
Illinois
A tuck here and a belt there and it may be a Good Wear or an Aero or a BK. If it were something different it would not be what it is, or wear how it does or feel how it does. Or it may be it really needs to be worn and fit. It is a rather glove like fit that appeals about mine. I can see it in the posters jacket too. His is new, mine has been worn. The small collar is a huge appeal to me, in fact the whole jacket appeals to me. The Sleeves and Cuffs are so nicely tapered, just adds to the hand in Glove. They created something different. Not better or worse, just different.

GregO. Nice Choice.
 

plainsman

Familiar Face
Messages
98
Location
France
From the question posed to me in another thread by ProteinNerd, I thought I share my reply here, too, seeing how it relates directly to the same overall topic:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/elmc-products.81206/page-4#post-2061060

I highly doubt Gary would change anything. I can mention it and see what happens, as he did change the sleeve length on the long fittings when I asked (and that took a lot of work on my behalf), but this is a far, far bigger deal to change than sleeve length and my gut tells me that he and we are selling too many to warrant taking on such a huge undertaking.

The responses here fall around 40%-50% to make the change, which aren't even all from people who would actually purchase one if the change was made. And there are those who don't ever participate here (the overwhelming majority, that would be), so I see this as being a case of you can't please all of the people all of the time, and I suspect Gary would, too.

Thank you for the feedback, though.

I should add a detail that further diminishes the chance for making the change you mention: we've sold a fair number of these to those of celebrity status, which one would think are some pretty meticulous, appearance-conscious individuals. One of these is actor Adam Goldberg, who liked his so much that his character on the "Jim Gaffigan Show" (now filming season 2) was just outfitted with a Californian and the costume director loves it and others from the show have now ordered this same style, along with Windwards. This is info. Gary now knows, so it doesn't exactly make for a compelling argument to alter the style.

I will present the discussion to Gary because of the respect I hold for TFL members, especially those who have spoken up, but I also want to be candid and state that this is not a battle I will press home very hard for all reasons cited.

HPA gave us politely a sound business explanation: it is the pattern and the sales figures prove that it is an attractive product.
Personally, i think that it is a nice model and the position of the pockets gives the style to this jacket.
The OP has a great jacket that fits him very well.
 

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