Fit Check - Aero Premier Highwayman

[wski9]

Hi FL folks. First time posting here, but I have spent like 100 hours reading forums and ads as I've embarked on a journey to purchase a BIFL jacket.

My goal: I want a tailored fit that suits modern styles, while being comfortable enough for everyday wear once broken in.

I've chosen the Premier Highwayman and am working with Carrie at Thurston (she's really great), but I also wanted to crowdsource some feedback here if possible, given this is a big and expensive decision and I'm 100% overthinking it.

I received the fit jacket - a size 42 in vicenza leather. FWIW I'm leaning towards CXL Steer Hide in case that leather choice weighs into your fit recommendations.

Here are some pictures of the fit:
View attachment Front fit.jpeg
View attachment Side Fit.jpeg
View attachment Back Fit.jpeg View attachment Front - arms raised.jpeg View attachment Back arms raised.jpeg

My thoughts:
The jacket looks like it fits pretty well. I am looking for a tailored fit. I'm happy with the sleeves and the waist, and I think the front length is good (just covers my belt), but might consider a slightly longer added drop. I think the shoulders and chest look and mostly feel good, but my biggest concern is that the jacket feels snug and restrictive when I raise my arms or reach out, particularly when it's zipped up. I cannot tell how much of that restrictive feeling is the heavy, new leather, vs. the fit. I shared these photos and thoughts with Carrie, and we're discussing whether I should consider sizing up to a 44 and then tapering the waist. I'm not an expert in sizing at all, and I am really trying to avoid buying a jacket that I'm swimming in. I think this looks good, and my slim build doesn't look great in jackets that are too large. That said, I also want it to be comfortable, so I'm looking for advice.

My Main Question: Is the sizing right, and I'll just need to break in the jacket, or should I adjust? If so, what are your recommendations based on the fit photos and notes? Does any of your advice change knowing this fit was Vicenza and I'm going for CXL SH?

If you're into this and want to provide anymore constructive advice, I'd appreciate the input. Here are some more details on the order and questions I have posed to Carrie, but please weigh in on the main concern first to help me out!

The order as I'm thinking today:
§ Premier highwayman
□ Any custom adjustments to sizing
□ Less pointy collar "modified premier collar". Any advice from folks who've chosen that modification?
§ Leather:
□ Brown CXL Steerhide. Does this affect your recommendation for sizing?
§ Lining:
□ Cotton tartan royal Stewart. Any concerns? Should I change lining for sleeves?
§ Stitching
□ Match the leather (brown)
§ Hardware:
□ Brass hardware throughout - Everyone like brass with brown cxl?
□ Universal zipper, brass
□ Looped ball for front pocket
§ Pocket
□ One Internal pocket, no closure, wearer's left

 

[Leather_nube]

The fit looks pretty spot on to me but more experienced members will hopefully be able to address your concerns regarding movement and upsizing + tapering. @MrProper is the expert on this

 

[wski9]

Thanks @Leather_nube for the quick response. I am familiar with @MrProper from my endless scrolling of FL about the Premier Highwayman, so hoping he'll provide his advice as well. Glad to be active on the forum

 

[MrProper]

The jacket looks good.
A size larger will definitely not look the same. Also, Aero tapers the hem only moderately (max 4"). If the jacket restricts you so much that it's uncomfortable, then I don't think this pattern is for you. With CXSH it will become rather more restrictive than less.
Fortunately, unless you're a zombie, you don't usually walk around with your arms up.
The Premier Highwayman is not a jacket for sports.
I wouldn't go for a longer front drop on this model. I think it should be shorter, like a trucker jacket. But of course it's a matter of taste.
If one of the rack fitted me like yours here, I'd just keep it and not take any further risks.

 

[MrProper]

□ Less pointy collar "modified premier collar". Any advice from folks who've chosen that modification?
§ Leather:
□ Brown CXL Steerhide. Does this affect your recommendation for sizing?
§ Lining:
□ Cotton tartan royal Stewart. Any concerns? Should I change lining for sleeves?
§ Hardware:
□ Brass hardware throughout - Everyone like brass with brown cxl?
§ Pocket
□ One Internal pocket, no closure, wearer's left

Any advice from folks who've chosen that modification?
I stuck with the original and think it's cool.

Does this affect your recommendation for sizing?
Possibly, but certainly not a whole size. The problem is that this will be within the tolerances that Aero reserves (0.5’ +/-).

Any concerns? Should I change lining for sleeves?
I always have satin lining in the sleeves with tartan lining.

Everyone like brass with brown cxl?
Yes, I like it. Whether nickel or brass, both look good with brown, I think.

 

[wski9]

The jacket looks good.
A size larger will definitely not look the same. Also, Aero tapers the hem only moderately (max 4"). If the jacket restricts you so much that it's uncomfortable, then I don't think this pattern is for you. With CXSH it will become rather more restrictive than less.
Fortunately, unless you're a zombie, you don't usually walk around with your arms up.
The Premier Highwayman is not a jacket for sports.
I wouldn't go for a longer front drop on this model. I think it should be shorter, like a trucker jacket. But of course it's a matter of taste.
If one of the rack fitted me like yours here, I'd just keep it and not take any further risks.

Thank you so much @MrProper!

I see that you have at least 2 premier highwaymans including at least one in CXL Steerhide. Did you find that the steerhide broke in and became more comfortable and easier to move in around the shoulders and chest once you'd worn it enough? How much of a difference should I expect for a fully worn in jacket vs. the stock off the shelf version? Thanks again!

 

[MrProper]

Thank you so much @MrProper!

I see that you have at least 2 premier highwaymans including at least one in CXL Steerhide. Did you find that the steerhide broke in and became more comfortable and easier to move in around the shoulders and chest once you'd worn it enough? How much of a difference should I expect for a fully worn in jacket vs. the stock off the shelf version? Thanks again!

I think CXSH is great and would use it again and again. But my Vicenza is still smoother.
For me, CXSH has become quite soft (if you can speak of soft with Chromexcel). The jacket doesn't stand up on its own.

I would not allow for any difference, because this minimal difference is lost in the tolerances. I think it is more subjective how restrictive something is perceived or not.
For example, it bothers me less and is therefore not a knockout criterion, as long as I can do all the things I want to do with a leather jacket (driving, making phone calls, carrying a bag/backpack, scratching my head, etc.).
If you want to have the style on your photos, you will have to accept the restrictions.
But yes, it will be a little bit better after break in. Even if it's only psychological ;-)

This works with mine and it fits like your test jacket.

 

[58panheadfan]

Fit jacket looks good to me. As always, I have the feeling the highwayman jackets from aero are too short in the front. I would therefore add a little front drop.

 

[cbez]

imo, that's about the range of motion you should expect with a simple shoulder construction.

there's a reason action backs and such were designed.

 

[MickeyPunch]

IMO:

Fit looks good. I like shorter jackets and wouldn’t mess with that.

I personally wouldn’t get a tougher/thicker leather unless you’re Indiana Jones or James Bond.

I like “antique” zippers with brown but Aero AFAIK only offers them in Talon and those are reaaaally bad.

 

[newtojackets]

IMO:

Fit looks good. I like shorter jackets and wouldn’t mess with that.

I personally wouldn’t get a tougher/thicker leather unless you’re Indiana Jones or James Bond.

I like “antique” zippers with brown but Aero AFAIK only offers them in Talon and those are reaaaally bad.

I don’t know what aero offers at the moment, but if they offer a bigger talon zipper, definitely go for it. The small ones they use aren’t great