First time suit buyer, need advice...

[dog20]

Hello Gents,

I want to buy a suit, dress shirt, tie, belt, pants, shoes, socks, and a vest so I can fit in with the rest of you handsome folks. But before I do, I have some questions.

1. What body measurements do I need to take?
2. What are some good brands and fabrics?
4. What colors do you recommend for a light skin tone?
5. Where do you all buy your outfits?
6. How do you go about putting your outfits together? Where is your starting point? What items need to be the same color(s) (I know shoes and belt are supposed to be the same color, what else?)?
7. How much can I expect to spend on all of these items?
8. How do you all afford all of your outfits (out of curiosity)?
9. Where do you all buy your accessories- cuffs, watches, etc.?
10. How can I tell if the suit fits me nicely? What areas do I need to pay special attention to?

If you can add any more comments, I'd appreciate it. I'm an empty slate when it comes to fashion.



PS I just recently got out of a coma so thats why I haven't posted in awhile.

 

[Mav]

PS I just recently got out of a coma so thats why I haven't posted in awhile.

That, my friend, is the most singularly unique reason I've ever seen on a forum to explain a protracted absence.
Welcome back.

Without responding to every point, I'll give you the general guidelines I follow. Which, I admit, probably aren't that great.

1. Almost every suit requires alteration. Make sure it fits in the shoulders- the rest can be dealt with- a good tailor knows what needs to be done. And that applies to a $150 sale suit at Penneys, to classier stuff you'll find in a thrift shop, to g-dawful expensive suits.
2. I'm a huge fan of plain charcoal, for a first or "go to" suit. Worsted and/or tropical wool, depending on where you reside.
3. Having said that, I make it easy on myself with black wingtips, black belt, and a reddish tie.
4. For all the accessory stuff, just go tasteful. You'll develop a feel for your look. And always have a pressed white handkerchief in your breast pocket, folded in whatever way fits your personality.
5. Rely heavily on sportcoats and slacks. It's easier.

It's less about what you specifically wear than how you wear it.

 

[Shangas]

I'm only a novice, but since joining FL, I've taken more interest in my wardrobe than previously...so perhaps a novice helping a novice might prove useful...

1. What body measurements do I need to take?

Height, waist and chest-measurements. I remember when I was looking for a waistcoat (vest), I was required to provide my chest-measurement (36 inches).

For shoes, knowing your shoe-size is obviously important.

2. What are some good brands and fabrics?

Most of the quality suits are made of wool, to my knowledge, although other materials are used.

4. What colors do you recommend for a light skin tone?

I'm fairly tanned (due to my asian background and also due to spending time outside), so I'll let someone else answer this, but I generally prefer darker colours. Greys and blacks.

6. How do you go about putting your outfits together? Where is your starting point? What items need to be the same color(s) (I know shoes and belt are supposed to be the same color, what else?)?

Again people can debate this until the end of time, but here's what I learned...

- Shoes & belt - Same colour (as you know. Black & black. Brown & brown).

- If wearing a pocket-watch & chain, chain & watch should be the same metal, and should match the colour of the belt-buckle (so: Gold watch, gold chain, brass belt-buckle. Silver watch, silver chain, stainless steel buckle).

- This is just my opinion but I never thought that checkered shirts went well with suits, so forget about those entirely.

7. How much can I expect to spend on all of these items?

This varies according to maker and quality.

8. How do you all afford all of your outfits (out of curiosity)?

Most of the big stuff (suits, trousers etc) were hand-me-downs from my older brother.

9. Where do you all buy your accessories- cuffs, watches, etc.?

My main accessories are cufflinks, pocket watch, chain and fountain pens. Cufflinks were again, either hand-me-downs from my brother, or ones which I bought myself (usually cheap simple ones). The pocket watch and chain I bought from a flea-market and fountain pens...well I've been a fountain pen collector for years now, so...yeah. From my own collection.

10. How can I tell if the suit fits me nicely? What areas do I need to pay special attention to?

Shoes: Snug with a bit of give here and there. I reckon any shoes which need a shoe-horn to be put on, are too tight, but that's just me.

Trousers: If you can fit two fingers between your waistband and your waist, they fit fine. The bottom of the legs should reach the tops of your shoes.

Waistcoat: The tops of the waistcoat should stop just short of the shoulderblades and the arm-holes should be just under your armpit. If the waistcoat's too big, you end up with a big gap underneath your arms that doesn't look nice. As the name suggests: The bottom of the coat should reach your waist, just above your hips. Waistcoats are close-fitting, so don't worry if it feels a *bit* tight. That said, if you can't breathe after doing up the buttons...try a bigger size!

Shirts: Shoulders of the shirt should be slightly wider than your own shoulders. Cuffs (French, buttoned, convertable or otherwise) should reach around the two bones in your wrist, below your hand. If they go beyond or don't reach that point, the shirt's too big or too small. Tuck your shirt in and stick your arms out in front, to the sides, up and then wave them around. If the shirt doesn't come jumping out of your trousers, it's the correct fit. You should be able to do up the top button without choking yourself. If you can't, you could remove the button and re-sew it a little further towards the middle of the shirt...

Jackets: The ends of the sleeves should reach to the first knuckle of your thumb. Can't think of much else here.

Now everything I've said might be all wet, but hopefully it's helped, some.

 

[Tomasso]

Visit the department stores in your area (like Macy's and Dillard's) and ask the sales associates in menswear to help you.

 

[Hepville]

May I jump in with some suggestions?

Take a look at the stitchings. They should be a bit elastic to prevent the seams/ fabric from ripping.

If you go for all natural fabric it´s the best for your body climate and against swetting too much but it creases easier.
Lot of fabrics for suits are made with synthetics. Up to 20% of synthetics is good against too much creasing.
You can test this very easily: Wring the jacket arms of some jackets for about 30 seconds and check it against each other.

Instead of buying from the rack you may consider to buy it made to measure.
I don´t know if there are businisses like this in your area.
In Germany e.g. we have "Kuhn Maßkonfektion". They work with default patterns and can adjust things like pockets, buttonhole style, lapel/ collar width and some more alongside your body measurements
For about 300 € you can get a suit here that is more like real taylor-made as of the rack.

I hope it´s understandable as I´m not speaking in my mothertounge and don´t know some words exactly.

 

[Richard Warren]

Congratulations on your recovery.

1. key measurements are chest, waist, and inseam.
2. get wool, don't worry about superfine
4. forget complexion and get gray and blue suits first
5. austin reed, hart shaffner and marx and hickey freeman are all owned by the same company i think and all are ok in their price range, better bought on sale.
6. with a gray or blue suit almost anything looks good, so just wear what you like, don't worry about matching things beyond shoes and belt
7. don't really know
8. sweat of brow, unfortunately
9. wherever I see them
10. the most common error i see is people buying suits that are a size too small. there is usually a drop of six inches from chest to waist, if that is not your shape you will have a problem. do not believe salesmen when they tell you the suit can be altered, unless it is very minor. competent tailors are rare to nonexistent. if you are buying an off the rack suit and it doesn't basically look good off the rack, don't buy it, and if it does look basically good, alteration will likely only screw it up.

 

[dog20]

Thanks for the advice everyone. There is a Men's Wearhouse near me. Do they have a nice selection? I prefer shopping without assistance because sales people make me nervous! I hate feeling pressured and having all eyes on me.

 

[Tomasso]

I prefer shopping without assistance because sales people make me nervous! I hate feeling pressured and having all eyes on me.

So I've heard.

 

[dog20]

My memory isn't what it used to be because of the accident. I apologize for repeating myself Tomasso.

 

[Tomasso]

My memory isn't what it used to be because of the accident. I apologize for repeating myself Tomasso.

No problem, dog. My memory ain't that hot these days and I didn't even have an accident.

 

[boushi_mania]

Jackets: The ends of the sleeves should reach to the first knuckle of your thumb. Can't think of much else here.

That's the rule for overcoats. A suit jacket's sleeve should come to the wrist joint, so that roughly 3/8 to 1/2 inch of shirt cuff is visible when the arms are at one's sides. A half inch or so too long or short can usually be fixed after purchase (depending on the fabric available in the seams), as long as the sleeve buttons are applied and not working.

I should add that the second consideration is the overall length of the jacket. It needs to be long enough to cover your butt. Shorter jacket lengths go in and out of fashion periodically, but they don't look good unless you're a waifish model.

 

[TexArchStudent]

I want to buy a suit, dress shirt, tie, belt, pants, shoes, socks, and a vest so I can fit in with the rest of you handsome folks. But before I do, I have some questions.

1. What body measurements do I need to take?
For shirts, you'll need to measure the length starting at the nape of your neck- clear instructions can be found with Google. Be sure your arm is slightly bent, otherwise the sleeves will feel too short. You'll also need to measure your neck, there is nothing quite as comfortable as a properly fitting collar. When buttoned, it shouldn't press into your neck - doesn't look good, but it shouldn't be too loose - you won't be able to get your knot quite right.

4. What colors do you recommend for a light skin tone?
Just about any.

6. How do you go about putting your outfits together? Where is your starting point? What items need to be the same color(s) (I know shoes and belt are supposed to be the same color, what else?)?
My tastes end up creating pieces that work with almost any other, excepting ties. Having only the one suit simplifies, but I just pick out which shirt I want to wear and grab a tie to go with it.
Also, I don't currently try matching my belt and shoes. My last pair of dress shoes were Python western boots, and my current ones a black cherry western boots, but I just wear the black belt I already had - I'd rather spend the money on a new shirt or pants.

7. How much can I expect to spend on all of these items?
Almost any suit will be $100+ even on sale. Decent dress shirts typically ~$40+. Belts ~$14+. Cheapest oxfords on sale I've seen lately were $40-50.

10. How can I tell if the suit fits me nicely? What areas do I need to pay special attention to?
Make sure it isn't too baggy, it'll look like you're trying to wear your dad's suit - even if you are 50 yrs old. Make sure the sleeves are long enough - too long CAN be fixed, but too short depends on the way it's made.


Men's Wearhouse probably has a decent selection, especially with an empty wardrobe. K & G has a large selection. Even stores like Belks and Kohl's have some basic choices.

I sympathise with sales people making you nervous, so if possible I would get a friend you would trust to help you get a suit that fits well. If you don't trust anyone you know, then I would probably find the suit I like and get the salesperson to help with getting the right size.

 

[WolfeMan]

All 2 of the suits i currently own were from goodwill. I suggest browsing there, you can try the stuff on, its cheap, and nobody will bug you.
fftopic: Where in Florida are you?

 

[TexArchStudent]

Also, I would recommend getting your shoes first, then your suit(s). This way you can wear them when selecting your trousers and you will get the break you want.

 

[Shangas]

That's the rule for overcoats. A suit jacket's sleeve should come to the wrist joint, so that roughly 3/8 to 1/2 inch of shirt cuff is visible when the arms are at one's sides. A half inch or so too long or short can usually be fixed after purchase (depending on the fabric available in the seams), as long as the sleeve buttons are applied and not working.

I should add that the second consideration is the overall length of the jacket. It needs to be long enough to cover your butt. Shorter jacket lengths go in and out of fashion periodically, but they don't look good unless you're a waifish model.

Whoops! Sorry...My apologies. lol

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Congratulations on your recovery. I hope you're goin to be alright now.

I don't want to confuse you with more advice. But I would recommend a friend or (male) relative to go shopping with you. Do you know someone who wears suits or maybe dress-trousers and shirts? Maybe there is someone in your family with the same size?

If you have our size it will be much easier to find good fitting stuff even second hand. I wouldn't buy a first suit on ebay, though.

Good look and show us your results if you like.

 

[draws]

SHOES - I recently purchased a beautiful mint pair of cordovan wing tips on ebay for $15.00. These would have cost in excess of $100 retail. They truly were MINT and fit great.

VESTS/WAISTCOATS - I have picked up several absolutely vintage vests in just about mint condition on ebay as well. The prices were anywhere from $10.00 to $20.00. Care must be taken to ask questions of the seller but you can purchase at about 40-50% of retail here as well.

SHIRTS - I just purchased 3 absolutely mint Andrew Neal British long sleeve dress shirts on ebay for a total of 9.00 pounds ($14.00 US) on ebay. They are beautiful and I can't be more pleased.

True that you should stay away from buying suits and the like on ebay but if you shop carefully, you will pick up some great deals there. Good luck and you will save lots of $$$$$$$ on your purchases.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

For vests and even shirts he still would need his sizes.

First try some clothes at a "normal" store and if you know whats fits you go hunting on ebay. A thrift store with a friendly owner would be the best. But in this case you should accept some help finding the right size. It's no big deal. They can't force you to buy anything even if you stay at the store and try suits for several hours. If you feel there is nothing for you, just leave the store and search another one. There is nothing that could go wrong if you ask them for finding your size. That's their job.

 

[Richard Warren]

If you don't like to shop, Lands-end probably has everything you need in pretty good quality for the price. Their catalogs and web site also tell you how to measure yourself If I remember correctly. In my area there is also a store called Steinmart which sells some decent brands for decent prices, and whose business model does not include paying a lot of money for sales assistance (that is to say, the only people working there are manning the cash registers, not bothering customers). Start with some khakis and polo shirts or plain white dress shirts, add a blue blazer, and you will be better dressed than most.

 

[Lone_Ranger]

Instead of buying from the rack you may consider to buy it made to measure.
I don´t know if there are businesses like this in your area.

In Germany e.g. we have "Kuhn Maßkonfektion". They work with default patterns and can adjust things like pockets, buttonhole style, lapel/ collar width and some more alongside your body measurements. For about 300 € you can get a suit here that is more like real tailor-made as of the rack.

I hope it´s understandable as I´m not speaking in my mother tounge and don´t know some words exactly.

Does Kuhn Maßkonfektion do internet sales? I'd be interested. Do they have a website?