https://standardandstrange.com/prod...lt-two-lane-blacktop-horsehide-leather-jacket
Also available in Italian natural horsehide which darkens with wear.
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Ah damn, now I have another item on my to-get list.
https://standardandstrange.com/prod...lt-two-lane-blacktop-horsehide-leather-jacket
Also available in Italian natural horsehide which darkens with wear.
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I have noticed for some years that various young women at work describe my leather jackets as "old guy's coats" or "dad coats." Down here you almost never see leather jackets at all so who knows how this works?
Hi leather addicts,
longtime lurker, first time poster. I actually signed up for this post.
Since you don't know me, I'd like to introduce myself. I'm a German in my mitt tweenties who got into leather jackets at about three years ago and spent ages on this website reading posts about jacket styles, leather types and colour choices.
Right now, I own a brown FQHH Cafe Racer from Aero, a black 'Raid' by Vanson made from their Competitionweight cowhide, a black buffalo calf Cafe Racer made by Safak in Cologne and an old black Bavarian police jacket which I use as pub jacket. I used to have a vintage 118 Perfecto which I really disliked. Aero Leather seems to be the brand of my choice.
Back to business:
Gentlemen, I'm desperatly looking for your advice.
I'm afraid 'need' a new jacket. As much as I love my brown FQHH cafe racer, the jacket is not suitable for everyday wear. At least it doesn't fit my daily routine. It's too stiff and bulky for the gym locker and has no pockets. I think you all know the problem, there is always a reason for a new jacket.
So what am I looking for?
I'm looking for a jacket that is lighter than FQHH, has pockets, that can take a beating, is suitable for every day wear (501 levis, t-shirt or henley) but it also able to be dressed up with a chino and a nice business shirt. i want to wear it most time of the year so it needs enough space to layer with a sweater but it should also look fiine with just a t-shirt underneath. I think a premier highwayman might fit the bill even though I now there I not the one jacket and I'll always find a good reason to buy another jacket.
I desperatly need your opinion on colour and leather choices!
Colour:
Black is a no go. I like black jackets but I've got too many. I'd like the jacket to be some kind of "brownish". In doubt I'd always go rather dark . My dark brown FQHH is a stunner but going for brown FQHH again would make the purchase of another jacket pointless and boring.
Colour options for the Premier Highwayman I'd like are russet brown (goat), cordovan italian (HH), medium russet jerky (HH medium), midweight seal (HH medium) or dark seal vincenza (HH).
Since I want to be able to wear the jacket as much as often, is there one most versatile colour?
This leads to the actual problem!
Leather choices:
I know there is not 'the leather' but since I want the jacket to be suitable for everyday wear I'm looking for a sturdy leather that is remarkably lighter than FQHH. A nice patina development would be nice but I don't want to have to baby the jacket!
I read about the differences of goat, vincenza and jerky horsehide but getting first hand information would be highly appreciated.
I actually found a jacket that is pretty much what I'm looking for, the one "do it all jacket" tha looks nice with a white shirt and a tie but is also suitable for the pub. It's worn by Jean-Paul Belondo in "Peur sur la ville" (1975). My only concerns are that I'm 11cm taller than Belmondo (I'm 6'2, rather lean athletic) so that the premier highwayman might not suit my body as well.
And finally, yes, of course I already contacted Aero and asked for their opinion but I'd be very grateful to get an opinion from other leather maniacs.
While this post got a little out of hand I hope you guys had a merry christmas and I'm looking forward to get in contact with you!
I think Mr. Ford looks like a crumpled guy from the housing estate because his A-2 is about 2 sizes too big. Look how the shoulder seams are hanging off his shoulders. I can never get behind that look.Yep- the A2 does look like an older guy thing, most of the time. Even Harrison looks like some crumpled guy from the local housing estate.
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I am also tall and fairly lean. Have you considered an Aero Seven? I think they only make it for Thurston Bros as an exclusive, but could be wrong on that. Not sure why I have that in my head.
That said, a Seven is a board racer with a collar. I have a couple of them and set the front up to have a slanted zip pocket on one side and two hand warmers with no zip. This gave it a highway man style front, but still has a one piece back and is a pretty form fitting jacket. The board racer is similar to the cafe racer, but the board racer/seven has a more hourglass fit and the cafe racer is like an upside down V that tapers to the waist. I have a 1.5" splay on mine so there are no issues with it covering my waist/belt. I have considered other jackets and tried on some other Aero options, but the Seven worked well for my body style and you can configure them still, so you can have the arm zippers on the back of the sleeve so they aren't visible (did this on my brown one).
Can't offer much input on hide since I order mine in thick CXL steer, but I really like Badalassi leather. If I deviated to a lighter hide, I would probably be deciding between Badalassi or Battered Tan.
Cheers!
Guten Abend Herresbach!
You sound almost exactly in the position I found myself in circa 5 months ago. I originally owned an Aero Board Racer in brown FQHH and parted ways with it on the grounds of me not finding it particularly ideal for daily use, I was convinced it was due to the slim fit and lack of pockets so I traded it in at Aero for a Premier Highwayman in Blackened Brown Vicenza.
From my own experience I can affirm that you will find the Vicenza a much 'easier' leather to deal with, it was very malleable when new and has plenty of grain character that would take FQHH months or even years to match. However I'm going to be the voice of opposition here and say that I have since trial fitted a Board Racer in Vicenza and found it to be completely different to wear compared to my original jacket, and actually fitted me better than my own Premier Highwayman, emphasizing that my Board Racer fit was perfect but it was the leather that made it less friendly.
If you need pockets and a little bit of adjustability in the gut/waist then I can happily recommend the Premier Highwayman (maybe even switch the sleeves to zip if you like the motorcycle style). If you're 'probably' going to not use the pockets and the Café Racer from Aero fits you well in your chosen size then maybe consider going for either another Café or maybe even the Board Racer in Vicenza (or potentially goat) which should be a little more user friendly.
Nicely put.I’m surprised to hear this sentiment because it is something that never occurred to me. I feel equally cool (which is to say very cool!) whether I’m wearing a Vanson cross zip or a GW half belt. Nor have I seen old men wearing a half belts, they all wear the same polar fleece and Gore-Tex crap that everyone else does. When I do see an older person in a leather jacket it usually is an oversized A-2 variant or something like a modern day Members Only jacket.
I have front pockets on my Seven with no zippers and really like it. I will say that having the zippers on the front warrents being a bit more careful you don't scratch up the leather with the sleeve zipper, but a simple fix to this is getting the hidden zippers on the back of the sleeve ( I did this on my brown one). I prefer no zippers in the hand warmers and have moleskin in mine. I got the one pictured in 42 so it would have more room for layers and not be as tight all the way through.
I have front pockets on my Seven with no zippers and really like it. I will say that having the zippers on the front warrents being a bit more careful you don't scratch up the leather with the sleeve zipper, but a simple fix to this is getting the hidden zippers on the back of the sleeve ( I did this on my brown one). I prefer no zippers in the hand warmers and have moleskin in mine. I got the one pictured in 42 so it would have more room for layers and not be as tight all the way through.
I’m surprised to hear this sentiment because it is something that never occurred to me. I feel equally cool (which is to say very cool!) whether I’m wearing a Vanson cross zip or a GW half belt. Nor have I seen old men wearing a half belts, they all wear the same polar fleece and Gore-Tex crap that everyone else does. When I do see an older person in a leather jacket it usually is an oversized A-2 variant or something like a modern day Members Only jacket.
HD,Hmm...Guess I must sell my Half Belts and find some more fitting 72 yr old man crap....
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Apart from Nick123, I rarely see a standard Highwayman that doesn't look boxy and shapeless. You picked that well. with these if you are normally a 42 you need a 38.
I’m surprised to hear this sentiment because it is something that never occurred to me. I feel equally cool (which is to say very cool!) whether I’m wearing a Vanson cross zip or a GW half belt. Nor have I seen old men wearing a half belts, they all wear the same polar fleece and Gore-Tex crap that everyone else does. When I do see an older person in a leather jacket it usually is an oversized A-2 variant or something like a modern day Members Only jacket.
I think Mr. Ford looks like a crumpled guy from the housing estate because his A-2 is about 2 sizes too big. Look how the shoulder seams are hanging off his shoulders. I can never get behind that look.
Hmm...Guess I must sell my Half Belts and find some more fitting 72 yr old man crap....
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I couldn't disagree with you more there. The thing about the HWM standard model is that it *is* a boxy jacket by design. I take one size small in it than I do in the pre-war models; I'd expect most people will vary in size per cut (I need a size bigger in an M422a than an A2, for instance). BUT when folks start buying several sizes down to get a neater fit in a HWM, well... to my eye it simply does not produce the desired effect.
I hear you but the measurements speak for themselves. A size 38 HWM has at around 23 inches, the pit to pit of a size 42, and a size 42 has at around 25 inches, the put to pit of a size 46.
Just as Thurston Bros recommends (they've done the hard thinking about this), it's best to size down to wear a HWM. Partiality if you have a slim build. Larger guys can probably be less discerning. Now in sizing down like this, the HWM in no sense fits tight or in any way substitutes itself for a 1930's half-belt or other trim fit jacket. It remains boxy, just trimmer and less like a sack.