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Finally got around to making an A-2

fishmeok

Vendor
Messages
759
Location
minneapolis
Kind of funny, but after a couple years of jacket making, this is the first full-fledged A-2 I have made. It's a customer jacket, essentially a 48 short. Dark brown goat, Conmar zipper, cotton lining, etc. It's based mainly on the Doniger pattern (sewn-in and rotated sleeves, shoulder seam under the epaulet) with a larger Dubow style collar and my own pocket design. The knits are more of a darker Dubow red as seen in the full shots than a bright berry. I'm pretty happy with it, plus, I'm not replicating any specific contract so you guys can't rip me to shreds on the details (as much, anyway :D )
Cheers
Mark

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Creeping Past

One Too Many
Messages
1,567
Location
England
That's a nice jacket. I like that it's generic, which to my mind makes it a genuine utility jacket rather than a conversation piece. I also like that you're doing your own thing and forging ahead against the grain — that appeals to me, somehow.
 

Papa M

A-List Customer
Messages
330
Location
Brighton, England
Great work. I can see that you are a true artisan. If you lived local to me I would be knocking on your door. The collar of your own jacket is too big for my taste; but I bet you'd make me something that I'd be honored to wear.
 

fishmeok

Vendor
Messages
759
Location
minneapolis
Thanks- it's great fun creating these things. I mentioned on the other post, but I agree that the collar is a little big- it's period correct, but I might tone it doen a little on the next one.
Cheers
Mark
 

L'Onset

Familiar Face
Messages
94
Location
Spain,The Pyrenees
By the way. How much could it have costed to you? in terms of both price of materials and hours of work. Just to have an idea of the distance between "artisan" job and "mass production"
 

astrang1

New in Town
Messages
28
Location
Glasgow, Scotland
Hello,
That is a nice jacket. I would love more detail on how you sewed, thread sizes etc. Also is there a resource on the net that has patterns for vintage leather jackets.
Best wishes,
Al
 

fishmeok

Vendor
Messages
759
Location
minneapolis
Thanks for the compliments-

If you do a search on the FL for my posts you can track the entire process over the last two years... This started as an attempt to replace the cuffs and zipper on a jacket and grew from there. I use an industrial machine and tex 90 thread or thicker, the four strand wrapped glazed cotton is the most period correct, but there was tremendous variation in thread types. I have had a LOT of help from people on the FL and VLJ, and in particular John Chapman of Goodwear, could not have done it without him.

There are no patterns that I have found, I just make my own based on a couple originals and a hell of a lot of trial and error.

The cost tends to vary depending on jacket, but right now an A-2 will run me about $600 in parts and labor- but I don't have to try and get the exact details of a specific contract (hide, liner,zipper,snaps) like John does, which gives me some wiggle room. I really have not figured my total time per jacket yet, but I average about 2 a month, working very part time.
Cheers
Mark
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
Nice job. Where do you source your goat from and what thread is strongest. Period details are unimportant to me. Be nice to see you try a utility half belt jacket.
 

James Miller

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
Location
Florida
You have got it going on!

Fishmeok,

You are doing one heck of a job! That jacket looks great from my house. I have tried to spend more time on making a jacket but it takes some time to get it right. I know how many times I would sew a sleeve to the body and then was not happy with it so I would take the stich out and try again.

It looks like you have got it down pat. The collar looks fine. some of the jackets I have worked on had rather large collars. The last one i tried to make, I didn't have a jacket ( Pattern) in my size so I tried to adjust a 44 to a 48 lets just say I have seen better jackets. Over the last year I have gotten a few patterns and I mean not jackets I have taken apart but real patterns. I have some hide left and with the new paper patterns I hope it will look as good as yours. How much would you charge for a size 48 if you was to make one to sell. I think it would be a nice addition to my collection.

Well keep up the good work and the great post's I enjoy reading them.
 

53Effie

A-List Customer
Messages
420
Location
Orygun
I agree with the others. Very nice work. You ought to think about a design along the lines of a Highwayman or Suburban. I'll bet it would be cool.
 

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