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Felt hat basics

prf

Registered User
Messages
2
Location
Connecticut
Wanted: basic info for Litefelt

After reading the informative posts on this thread, I'm left wondering what exactly applies to Litefelt, what doesn't, and what else I ought to know about care and maintenance. I welcome any information or guidance. Thanks.
 

W0XDL

New in Town
Messages
7
Location
Western Missouri
Cleaning Rim on Homburg

For lack of the probable correct terminology, I would like some help with cleaning the "rim" around the outer edge of my Homburg. I carefully was able to clean the felt but there are still a few discolored spots around this edge. The hat is gray, if that matters.

Thanks!

DL

2775884420104122225S425x425Q85.jpg
 

Subvet642

A-List Customer
Hi All, I'm new to the "Lounge" and haven't learned the local etiquette yet, so please bear with me. I recently bought my first "real" felt hats; one a Bailey Gangster fedora in cadet, and a brown porkpie. I'm having a little difficulty shaping the brim on the fedora. I'm trying to achieve a smooth, gradual transition from back to front. The current shape is somewhat dramatic, and looks good enough, but not quite perfect. I have a hand steamer which I used to shape the porkpie with great success (front down, like Jimmy Cagney in "Yankee Doodle Dandy). Any advice?
 

Subvet642

A-List Customer
kabuto said:
If your main goal is to wear it, rather than to "curate" it as a historical artifact, the best thing would be to have the sweatband and liner replaced, which should only cost $30 or so at a custom hat house. You can get it completely washed in a liquid bath, re-blocked and -flanged, creased, with a new sweatband, liner, and ribbon for about $80.


Hi, do you know of a custom hat shop in Boston? My wife bought a hat at a local vintage clothing and antique shop, and she would like to wear it. It seems to be in very good shape, but needs some sprucing up.
 

retro50

Familiar Face
Messages
61
Location
Calgary, Alberta
Has anyone heard about or read (own) this book. I am looking for a good all round reference book on hats and hat making just to come up to speed on all the terms used in the making and styling of fedoras.

"A Treatise On Hat-Making And Felting: Including A Full Exposition Of The Singular Properties Of Fur, Wool, And Hair (1868)" (Paperback)
by John Thomson (Author)
 

celtic

A-List Customer
Messages
328
Location
NY
What are hat brushes made from nowadays?

I found ONE shop locally that sells them, and when asked, the fellow on the phone told me he believes they have nylon bristles. They sell for $15, so I'm guessing they will be similar in quality to the brushes I've seen online.

I'd much rather just buy one locally instead of having one shipped to me.

Do you blokes have brushes with actual horsehair, etc. or do you have nylon bristled brushes?
 

suitedcboy

One Too Many
Messages
1,348
Location
Fort Worth Texas or thereabouts
Horsehair!! Nylon is too rough on the felt.

A new white or bleached horsehair shoe brush works well for light colored hats and is not hard to find or expensive.
Black horsehair brush is fine for dk hats. There may be some risk that black brushes have dyed hair that might transfer to a light colored hat.
 

celtic

A-List Customer
Messages
328
Location
NY
Thanks very much. I'll grab a nice horsehair shoebrush for now and then order a hat care kit from one of the hatters online when I get the chance.

Cheers!
 

cookie

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,927
Location
Sydney Australia
suitedcboy said:
Horsehair!! Nylon is too rough on the felt.

A new white or bleached horsehair shoe brush works well for light colored hats and is not hard to find or expensive.
Black horsehair brush is fine for dk hats. There may be some risk that black brushes have dyed hair that might transfer to a light colored hat.

That happened to me when brushing a cream fedora.
 

St.Ignatz

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
On the banks of the Karakung.
I found a small mushroom brush fits in the pocket or dittybag nicely for travel. It's much softer than a veggie brush. I know nylon bristles are rough on felt but a quality mushbrush is very flexible and works well enough to carry along.
 

Jeff C.

New in Town
Messages
7
Location
MID-OHIO
HAT SIZE??

i've been reading the post's here regarding hat size, including a couple charts. my head is just over 22 1/4 circum., using an old cloth seamstress' tape. this indicates my hat size to be 7 1/8. i have an old resistol cowboy hat, i think it's called a cattleman, in 7 1/8. it fits fine. my problem is, there are some really great old dobb's fedora's listed on e-bay, by a person who bought a hat collection at an estate sale in oklahoma. most of these hats are 7 1/8. this person is thorough enough to include circumference and is listing these 7 1/8 hats as being mostly 21 1/2 and 21 5/8. can somebody help me out here. could it be, the original owner of the hats, tried on hats until he found one that fit, and that the true size was not indicative of the size marked on the tag in hat band? i'm dying to buy a couple of these vintage dobb's, but now i'm afraid i'm going to end up buying something that doesn't fit. this is my first post, i hope i'm putting it in the proper place, so i can get some answers.
 
Messages
11,579
Location
Covina, Califonia 91722
Jeff

1) old fur felt hats often shrink over time.
2) sizes can be a little off from maker to maker.
3) although the seller has done the measuring, how sure are we that they were 100% accurate. It is tougher than you think to accurately measure the inner circumfrance of a hat.

If the difference is small you may be able to stretch the hat back to the origin size. There are threads on hat stretching.
 
Messages
10,524
Location
DnD Ranch, Cherokee County, GA
Jeff,
I'm a 7 5/8 or a 7 1/2 Long Oval, maybe even extra long oval. I've got 7 1/2 vintage hats that fit fine, then after sitting a while, need some shaping with a hat stretcher. I have a Hat Jack & a vintage stretcher that are usually in one of my lids at all times. When dealing with vintage, get close then adjust them, with too large I use felt spacer behind the sweatbands but after use, they come out. HTH gtd
 

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